**Projector housing LED bulb replacements FOUND**

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Cableman

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Just an fyi the Lumibright leds look to be on sale again $135!
 

sen7inel

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Cableman did you have to use decoders or Alpha obd? I may pick up the Lumibrights, but currently have reflector lights and want to upgrade to oem style projectors at the same time.
 
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bigred90gt

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They look good. I've got a similar dark spot with my TYC projectors with HID, so I'm not sure that would bother me. How is the color compared to the HID? Also, how is the distance projection from an actual driving perspective? I know when I took pictures of the LEDs in mine, the photos looked great, but I was outdriving my headlights once I hit around 50 mph.
 

Cableman

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Cableman did you have to use decoders or Alpha obd? I may pick up the Lumibrights, but currently have reflector lights and want to upgrade to oem style projectors at the same time.

Alfaobd no decoders, my setting is still on HID not led and no issues.

They look good. I've got a similar dark spot with my TYC projectors with HID, so I'm not sure that would bother me. How is the color compared to the HID? Also, how is the distance projection from an actual driving perspective? I know when I took pictures of the LEDs in mine, the photos looked great, but I was outdriving my headlights once I hit around 50 mph.

The color is better then any hid i have used, ddm ultra 35w 5500k and morimoto 5500k. They match my morimoto 2stoke fogs perfect to what i can tell.
Distance seems really good at least to me so far, i dont have a ton of drive time at night, just to the gym a few times.
The hids seemed to have a hotter spot just out front on ground, the LEDs seem brighter though.
One of my morimoto hid bulbs looks to have been dropping kv already and they were hardly used, these LEDs are just so easy to install without ballasts and stuff.

One thing i have noticed is theres a beam of light shooting up on an angle, its dull but bright if you catch it the right while walking past headlight! Since the chips are at 3&9 the inbound chip is reflecting off the highbeam reflector, i have factory chrome Laramie housings so sports or others may not see this.
Im gonna try clocking bulbs to see what way works best.
 

bigred90gt

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The color is better then any hid i have used, ddm ultra 35w 5500k and morimoto 5500k. They match my morimoto 2stoke fogs perfect to what i can tell.
Distance seems really good at least to me so far, i dont have a ton of drive time at night, just to the gym a few times.
The hids seemed to have a hotter spot just out front on ground, the LEDs seem brighter though.
One of my morimoto hid bulbs looks to have been dropping kv already and they were hardly used, these LEDs are just so easy to install without ballasts and stuff.

One thing i have noticed is theres a beam of light shooting up on an angle, its dull but bright if you catch it the right while walking past headlight! Since the chips are at 3&9 the inbound chip is reflecting off the highbeam reflector, i have factory chrome Laramie housings so sports or others may not see this.
Im gonna try clocking bulbs to see what way works best.
Is the color higher or lower K by appearance than the 45w 5500k HID setup? I like my current setup with the 45w 5500k because it is white with no blue tint at all. The Katana and Hikari Ultra LEDs were white with some blue, probably closer to 6000k-6500k.

I drive on the highway at night quite frequently, and with both the Hikari Ultra and Katana, I could not see anything in the distance. It was quite unnerving driving at night with them at highway speeds. The only saving grace is living in the Houston area, the highways are well lit, and there is generally a lot of ambient light just because of the nature of the industry in the area. The hotspot looked great on the garage at 20 feet, but was non-existent in the distance. But with photos, they look great. I might just pick up a set and throw them in, and if I like them, get another set for the highs as well. The Alpharex lights use H7 for both lows and highs.

I currently have the TYC projectors, and my low beams (HID) do the same as far as reflecting up and out to the sides. I noticed it as I was passing an 18 wheeler one night, and now I see it all the damn time since I have a tree lined road I drive to get to my house.
 

Cableman

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Is the color higher or lower K by appearance than the 45w 5500k HID setup? I like my current setup with the 45w 5500k because it is white with no blue tint at all. The Katana and Hikari Ultra LEDs were white with some blue, probably closer to 6000k-6500k.

I drive on the highway at night quite frequently, and with both the Hikari Ultra and Katana, I could not see anything in the distance. It was quite unnerving driving at night with them at highway speeds. The only saving grace is living in the Houston area, the highways are well lit, and there is generally a lot of ambient light just because of the nature of the industry in the area. The hotspot looked great on the garage at 20 feet, but was non-existent in the distance. But with photos, they look great. I might just pick up a set and throw them in, and if I like them, get another set for the highs as well. The Alpharex lights use H7 for both lows and highs.

I currently have the TYC projectors, and my low beams (HID) do the same as far as reflecting up and out to the sides. I noticed it as I was passing an 18 wheeler one night, and now I see it all the damn time since I have a tree lined road I drive to get to my house.

They seem whiter to me with no blue at all. Hids have that blue line at cut off but these are white. Hids do have a sharper cut off.
Im surprised none of these good companies make a 360° or at least 3 chip led to help rid any dark spots.
You can see the telephone poles on the left in my pics between the 2, pretty close.

Im guessing whats reflected back into the projector bowl is upside down when projected out? hence why the hid bar is better on the bottom. This is why i clocked these with the longer part on bottom. I would like to clock one the opposite way and see how it looks at night.
 

bigred90gt

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They seem whiter to me with no blue at all. Hids have that blue line at cut off but these are white. Hids do have a sharper cut off.
Im surprised none of these good companies make a 360° or at least 3 chip led to help rid any dark spots.
You can see the telephone poles on the left in my pics between the 2, pretty close.

Im guessing whats reflected back into the projector bowl is upside down when projected out? hence why the hid bar is better on the bottom. This is why i clocked these with the longer part on bottom. I would like to clock one the opposite way and see how it looks at night.
The problem with the 360 degree LEDs is with the diameter. They are considerably larger than the equivalent halogen filament, and offer horrible output in a projector because of it. The best output comes from the LEDs that can most closely mimick the dimensions and location of the halogen filament.

Yes, the projector lens flips the light coming out of it. The cutoff shield is actually on the bottom, but when the light is projected out, it is on the top of the beam.
 

Cableman

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The problem with the 360 degree LEDs is with the diameter. They are considerably larger than the equivalent halogen filament, and offer horrible output in a projector because of it. The best output comes from the LEDs that can most closely mimick the dimensions and location of the halogen filament.

Yes, the projector lens flips the light coming out of it. The cutoff shield is actually on the bottom, but when the light is projected out, it is on the top of the beam.

The new morimoto 2stroke v3 doesnt look like it would be any better either but id love to try them also.
If you do get these i hope they work out for ya, they would do well in highs if not.
 

SonofaMitch

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I just installed the Morimoto 2stroke 3.0 in my 2014 Ram 1500 sport (with projector headlights). I got them for the low beam, high beam, and fog lights. I have only had the stock halogen bulbs installed so these were an incredible upgrade for me.

The lights all worked, but I did get a "light out" error on my EVIC. I used AlphaOBD to set the lights as LEDs.

The low beams (9012) will hit the dust covers. I cut a hole in my dust covers and patched the area after the LEDs were installed.

The high beams (9005) were a pain in the ass to install, but they do fit. The heat sink hits the curved surface of the housing and makes it difficult seat them and turn them in to place.

The fog lights (9006) should have been the easiest to install... twist the old ones out and pop the new ones in.... but I had to remove the fog lamps (Three 10 mm screws). There is plenty of room to install them, but it was a snug fit while trying to twist / lock them into place. I didn't have the right angle or leverage while I was under the truck so it was easier for me to just remove the entire fog light and install them.

I sent an email to Morimoto asking them if there was an up/down orientation for the LEDs. I know the installation procedure says to put the LED chips in a 9 & 3 O'clock orientation. I was not certain if there was any reason or justification to install them with the orange portion of the heatsink in the 6 o'clock position (where the wire comes out of the heatsink). I have not heard back from Morimoto yet. I did install them with the wire / orange part of the heat sink at 6 O'clock (and the LED chips at 9 and 3).

Here are some pics. There are no before pics unfortunately:

Fog Lights
Fogs2strokeV3.jpg

Low Beam
LowBeam2strokeV3.jpg

Low Beam and fog lights
LowBeamandFog2strokeV3.jpg

High Beam
HighBeam2strokeV3.jpg
 
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Cableman

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I just installed the Morimoto 2stroke 3.0 in my 2014 Ram 1500 sport (with projector headlights). I got them for the low beam, high beam, and fog lights. I have only had the stock halogen bulbs installed so these were an incredible upgrade for me.

The lights all worked, but I did get a "light out" error on my EVIC. I used AlphaOBD to set the lights as LEDs.

The low beams (9012) will hit the dust covers. I cut a hole in my dust covers and patched the area after the LEDs were installed.

The high beams (9005) were a pain in the ass to install, but they do fit. The heat sink hits the curved surface of the housing and makes it difficult seat them and turn them in to place.

The fog lights (9006) should have been the easiest to install... twist the old ones out and pop the new ones in.... but I had to remove the fog lamps (Three 10 mm screws). There is plenty of room to install them, but it was a snug fit while trying to twist / lock them into place. I didn't have the right angle or leverage while I was under the truck so it was easier for me to just remove the entire fog light and install them.

I sent an email to Morimoto asking them if there was an up/down orientation for the LEDs. I know the installation procedure says to put the LED chips in a 9 & 3 O'clock orientation. I was not certain if there was any reason or justification to install them with the orange portion of the heatsink in the 6 o'clock position (where the wire comes out of the heatsink). I have not heard back from Morimoto yet. I did install them with the wire / orange part of the heat sink at 6 O'clock (and the LED chips at 9 and 3).

Here are some pics. There are no before pics unfortunately:

Fog Lights
View attachment 229237

Low Beam
View attachment 229238

Low Beam and fog lights
View attachment 229239

High Beam
View attachment 229240


The fogs work best at 9&3 at least on the 2.0s i have other wise they throw light to high up and not as wide. All should be the same which it sounds like you did.
Man that must have been costly doing all the lights with the 3.0s!
Is it just the camera shot or are they blueish at all? Looks like theres almost too much light above the hot spot also, maybe thats just the camera shot again?
 

SonofaMitch

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These are nice and white (and are listed as 5500K). I didn't pick the best spot for those pics. I was in a parking lot, pulled up to a raised area of grass/sidewalk that had snow covering a lot of it. I'm sure there's quite a bit of reflection from the snow. Also, the wall I'm lighting up is a grayish/blueish color to begin... probably the worst color to test on.

I'll update the photos when I find a better spot for pics.
 

Cableman

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These are nice and white (and are listed as 5500K). I didn't pick the best spot for those pics. I was in a parking lot, pulled up to a raised area of grass/sidewalk that had snow covering a lot of it. I'm sure there's quite a bit of reflection from the snow. Also, the wall I'm lighting up is a grayish/blueish color to begin... probably the worst color to test on.

I'll update the photos when I find a better spot for pics.

Sounds good! Let us know if there's dark spot just past front of truck on ground which is common on led in projectors, like whats in my pics.
 

Mission72

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Still liking my lumibrights, looks like bulbfacts tested the new morimotos also and they dont seem to do well in projectors at all.

https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/reviews/morimoto-2stroke-30-led-kit-review.html

Been looking at BulbFacts a bit last couple days after your posts. I sent a request to DDMTuning yesterday asking about the new Saber ProX 55W V2's that just came out last month. They have good ratings on BulbFacts (5.8), only issue I see is they say they are not Canbus compatible.

https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/reviews/ddm-tuning-saberled-prox-55w-accu-v2-led-review.html

If these don't pan out, I'll order the Lumibright
 

Cableman

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Been looking at BulbFacts a bit last couple days after your posts. I sent a request to DDMTuning yesterday asking about the new Saber ProX 55W V2's that just came out last month. They have good ratings on BulbFacts (5.8), only issue I see is they say they are not Canbus compatible.

https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/reviews/ddm-tuning-saberled-prox-55w-accu-v2-led-review.html

If these don't pan out, I'll order the Lumibright

Interesting and promising, they were not on the sight when i ordered the lumibrights.
Maybe ddmtuning bought out lumibright?!? I dont see a difference in these 2!
Screenshot_20210411-203938~3.png
Screenshot_20210411-204925.png

Im sure the ones you ordered will work great as long as you can clock them and as long as you have alpaobd.
 

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