Purchase advice

[Oilercat]

This is my first post on this site. I am looking at buying a Power Wagon. I have found a nice 2016 Laramie w/110k miles. In researching the truck I found out the valve body was replaced in late 2022. It’s at a small used car lot and they said it threw some codes so they took it to dealership. Sounds like it needs a new torque converter and they are fixing it. So the truck should basically have a “rebuilt” transmission and they are throwing in a free 6 month warranty. The price of trucks these days is ridiculous so my dilemma is should I feel good about this truck or spend more on one with less miles? I have seen some 2017’s with 75k miles but they are $10k more or a 2018 with 40k for $15-20k more.
I have a company car so this truck will be a weekend grocery getter. It’s one of those situations of I don’t need a Power Wagon, I just want one!! Any help or advice is appreciated!

 

[jws123]

It sounds like someone elses problem truck that they traded into a small car lot happens all the time I would pass also car/truck prices have been dropping for a while dealeers are starting to get desprate take your time looking you will find a good deal.

 

[Dean2]

It sounds like someone elses problem truck that they traded into a small car lot happens all the time I would pass also car/truck prices have been dropping for a while dealeers are starting to get desprate take your time looking you will find a good deal.

^^^^^^^ What he said. Figure 200,000 miles is pretty much used up, at least for trouble free non big ticket fixes. Divide purchase cost by, in this case 90,000 miles remaining to 200,000, to figure out your cost per mile. In the case of new, all in price divided by 200,000. Buy one with the lowest cost per mile. That of course is not the whole cost but it is a very good metric. For the last 3 years, a new pickup had a significantly lower cost per mile than recent model used ones.

 

[Oilercat]

Thanks. I looked at a new Tradesman 6.4 Hemi 4x4. It was about as base as you can get. It’s more than I want to spend but I would have some peace of mind with a warranty. As I said I don’t even need a truck I just miss having one and I have wanted a Power Wagon since 2010. I have had two 1500’s, two 2500 Mega Cabs and one 2500 Crew with a Cummins. The Cummins was nice but at the time I had a car allowance and put a lot of miles on my truck so that’s why I went with the diesel. Then I got this job with a company car and I got a great offer to sell my truck so I sold it. That was two years ago and now I’m just looking again.

 

[mtofell]

Sounds like it needs a new torque converter and they are fixing it. So the truck should basically have a “rebuilt” transmission

Not sure I'd make this leap.... the 66RFE trannys in these things are proving to be pretty unreliable. There are several current threads on the topic and I'd encourage you to read through them. I had two failures before 90K and am currently doing okay with 125K. The 6mo warranty thing is nice but I'd look over the limitations and exceptions with a microscope should you decide to move forward.

 

[Oilercat]

Thanks. I did read a lot about the 66rfe and it does sound like a weak link. I also have a buddy who is a service advisor at a local dealership and he says these 6.4’s are pretty reliable. As I said it won’t be my daily driver. I just have to keep looking. My worry is I buy one with 50-60k miles and I still run into same issues. At least with this one the issues seemed to be fixed but how long will it last. I guess that’s the gamble of buying used trucks.

 

[mtofell]

Thanks. I did read a lot about the 66rfe and it does sound like a weak link. I also have a buddy who is a service advisor at a local dealership and he says these 6.4’s are pretty reliable. As I said it won’t be my daily driver. I just have to keep looking. My worry is I buy one with 50-60k miles and I still run into same issues. At least with this one the issues seemed to be fixed but how long will it last. I guess that’s the gamble of buying used trucks.

Yeah, it is kind of a gamble more than most others.... it's almost less a mileage thing and more just luck of the draw. My engine (6.4 Hemi) also failed at 110K but from reading on here that is REALLY rare. Thankfully, I have a Maxcare Lifetime Warranty so it's just an inconvenience more than a monetary thing. Overall, I'm still really happy with my truck but it's definitely had its share of problems.

 

[buckeyexx]

In my opinion the weak link in the trans has been addressed with the valvebody. The problem I see is that it was probably with another oem valvebody which I wouldn’t do but will be ok for awhile. The solenoid pack is another problem area but maybe that was done at the same time as they are connected to one another.
Depending on the price and as long as it shifts good after the work is complete I wouldn’t be afraid of the trans. Are the newer 8 speeds better I’m sure they are at least from what I have read but they also can have issues. The 6speed is a good trans and is easier to service and maintain as long as you don’t beat on it.

 

[Oilercat]

Thanks. My hope would be that the issues have been fixed with the valve body and torque converter replaced. The price is good and it’s a good looking truck. I also fear paying a little more for one with 40k to 80k range that hasn’t had any transmission issues then it bugs out on me a few months later.

 

[mtnrider]

I'd be very leery myself. First of all I find it hard to believe that a small car lot would take a vehicle to a dealership to repair. These guys always use the cheapest labor they can find. I'd bet that bubba down the street diagnosed it and is "repairing" it.
Also agree that someone probably traded in their problem child truck so I wouldn't be surprised if you see more issues pop up soon.

I would probably pass but that's me. Seen too many posts of vehicles like this that turn out to have more issues than was initially thought

 

[Oilercat]

I should have clarified that’s it’s a pretty good size used car lot and they do have their own service department for basic stuff. I think this went passed their comfort level. I talked to the transmission shop that did the valve body replacement and they remembered the truck. They where confident in their repairs but didn’t have a very high opinion of the 66rfe or the 6.4 Hemi and recommended me getting a diesel. I explained I don’t need a diesel and I could actually run into problems with a diesel since I will barely use the truck. If I get a truck it will be an unnecessary luxury for me. I just miss not having a truck.

 

[TotallyHucked]

Small car lot = pass. As stated before, those guys are typically fly by nighters that use the absolute cheapest labor and parts to get the truck out the door. Keep shopping and find a private seller to buy from. Much better peace of mind for the long haul. I upped my budget about 9k from where I originally wanted to be at when buying my truck so that I could find a lower mileage truck from a private seller I felt I could trust.

 

[Travelin Ram]

I drove a number of these over the years but refused to buy one until the 8 speed ZF went in. The 6 speed is a dog, and unreliable.

 

[weldguy]

Sounds to me like the small car dealer bought it at an auction.

 

[Frank Titus]

This is my first post on this site. I am looking at buying a Power Wagon. I have found a nice 2016 Laramie w/110k miles. In researching the truck I found out the valve body was replaced in late 2022. It’s at a small used car lot and they said it threw some codes so they took it to dealership. Sounds like it needs a new torque converter and they are fixing it. So the truck should basically have a “rebuilt” transmission and they are throwing in a free 6 month warranty. The price of trucks these days is ridiculous so my dilemma is should I feel good about this truck or spend more on one with less miles? I have seen some 2017’s with 75k miles but they are $10k more or a 2018 with 40k for $15-20k more.
I have a company car so this truck will be a weekend grocery getter. It’s one of those situations of I don’t need a Power Wagon, I just want one!! Any help or advice is appreciated!

My first post also. I bought a new '16 Power Wagon. I always liked the Rebel Logo, not available on the 2500 'til this year. So, I got me one '23 Power Wagon Rebel, May 15th. I call it a Junior Power Wagon, no winch, front diff locker, or sway bar disconnect. Went with the 4.10 diffs that the '16 had. The 8 speed trans is the biggest difference between the 6 speed in the '16 PW, The Rebel logo for the rear quarter panel is not an option for the 2500 PW. The Rebel option on the 1500 is $500! I went to Fast Signs in Oklahoma City; showed them a pic of the logo. They did it for $300, installed! Really looks Good! Had them down size a bit so it would not lap into my RamBox lids. A little more subtle, just trying to reflect my 79.25 years of Maturity. Ha! Okay the Bottom Line. JL (Jeep) Forums Contributor Raspert (sic?) has a list of dealers that will Deal. The closest one I could find near OkC was Jim Butler Jeep Ram etc., Linn, Missouri. Ordered on the phone there. 6 weeks, here comes that Pw, May 15th! Used my '16 PW, & flatbed to go get it. 900 miles round trip, got $8,550 under list, which was $77,550. Well worth the trip, & a fun challenge! My '20 JL EcoDiesel round trip was 2,200 miles round trip; still netted about $4,000 after fuel expenses etc. Part of Butler's Discount was 1% ($775) for using their bank financing. The rate was .0852%; that seems high! Some of their banks disqualified me with a 795 credit rating. What was hurting me was "no installment loans". Now with installment loans, my credit score is 809! I am working my way up to Max! Promised Butler I would not refinance for at least 6 months; so they can keep the commission. After selling my '16 PW/, I have paid down my loan to $21,500. Payments now are stuck at $1,139 now. By December, refinance time, I should have it down to about a balance of $16,000. All Right! On that '23 PW Rebel, tried to order the standard cloth seats to keep the costs down. Supplier was not sending cloth seats to Saltillo, Mexico. The only way to get any order in was to opt for the Level 1 Equipment Group, $4,410. Looking back, I got a lot of options that I sort of wanted. I am H A P P Y ! Hope this missive helps you on your Quest. Good Luck, Sir!





































































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[2003F350]

I traded my '17 Wagon in about a month ago because it was at the dealer for 3 weeks for a repair and I NEEDED a truck. They couldn't find the problem (it NEVER threw a code, even a soft code) so the Chrysler engineers from the proving grounds were looking into it. It had the Lifetime Maxxcare warranty so they gave me full trade value for it (had 102k on it) and I put that toward my leftover '22 CTD 2500. I didn't NEED a diesel but it sure gets better mileage than the Wagon did.

Two more weeks went by when the service manager called me...turns out it was a MAP sensor that went bad but wouldn't throw a code. Other than parking sensors that was the ONLY issue I had with the truck. Never had transmission issues, never had axle issues, never had lifter issues (ALWAYS ran Mobil 1), so either I was lucky or just took better care of it than most, I can't say. It was a solid truck, and as far as I know it's on their lot and ready to be sold.

 

[Dusty]

This is my first post on this site. I am looking at buying a Power Wagon. I have found a nice 2016 Laramie w/110k miles. In researching the truck I found out the valve body was replaced in late 2022. It’s at a small used car lot and they said it threw some codes so they took it to dealership. Sounds like it needs a new torque converter and they are fixing it. So the truck should basically have a “rebuilt” transmission and they are throwing in a free 6 month warranty. The price of trucks these days is ridiculous so my dilemma is should I feel good about this truck or spend more on one with less miles? I have seen some 2017’s with 75k miles but they are $10k more or a 2018 with 40k for $15-20k more.
I have a company car so this truck will be a weekend grocery getter. It’s one of those situations of I don’t need a Power Wagon, I just want one!! Any help or advice is appreciated!

Regarding the transmission, a lot of negative has been hurled at the 66FRE that is hyperbole. It contains some heavier elements from the 68RFE, only in the smaller case that fits Hemis. The early years uncovered some frailties and most of them have been addressed since introduced in 2012.

In early units the low reverse sprag clutches would fail, and overdrives clutches would begin to slip prematurely.

The biggest problem area, and this persisted through most years of this transmission, was problems with the valvebody. The aluminum casting was often porous producing cross leaks, the shuttle valve bores would wear, and over time in service, the valvebody would warp producing pressure losses.

In later years the factory producing the valvebodies adopted a "rapid" curing process before machining in order to reducing the effects of warping. (If a replacement is needed in the future, I would recommend a good billet unit, NOT an OEM unit.)

Since the valvebody has already been replaced you've probably reduced the probability of having an issue in the near future to a very low figure, that is, assuming you drive the vehicle within the manufacturers limits.

I would highly recommend ignoring any emotional tendency to try a tune that boosts engine power. Many of the failures of these transmissions have been caused by excessive stress or tuners. Maintain transmission fluid and filter changes. Also, should any electrical components need replacement in the future, do not use aftermarket parts.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 94848 miles.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Regarding the transmission, a lot of negative has been hurled at the 66FRE that is hyperbole. It contains some heavier elements from the 68RFE, only in the smaller case that fits Hemis. The early years uncovered some frailties and most of them have been addressed since introduced in 2012.

In early units the low reverse sprag clutches would fail, and overdrives clutches would begin to slip prematurely.

The biggest problem area, and this persisted through most years of this transmission, was problems with the valvebody. The aluminum casting was often porous producing cross leaks, the shuttle valve bores would wear, and over time in service, the valvebody would warp producing pressure losses.

In later years the factory producing the valvebodies adopted a "rapid" curing process before machining in order to reducing the effects of warping. (If a replacement is needed in the future, I would recommend a good billet unit, NOT an OEM unit.)

Since the valvebody has already been replaced you've probably reduced the probability of having an issue in the near future to a very low figure, that is, assuming you drive the vehicle within the manufacturers limits.

I would highly recommend ignoring any emotional tendency to try a tune that boosts engine power. Many of the failures of these transmissions have been caused by excessive stress or tuners. Maintain transmission fluid and filter changes. Also, should any electrical components need replacement in the future, do not use aftermarket parts.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 94848 miles.

And heat, from the dumb pencil thermostat they stuck in the trans oil cooling line.

 

[Oilercat]

Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards buying this one with the valve body and torque converter replaced. Used Power Wagons with 50-80k mile range are $10-15 more. Then I worry about paying more money and transmission goes out on the lower mileage truck anyway. This truck will sit in the driveway most of the time since I have a company car. I won’t be trying to get more power from a programmer or add a lift or bigger tires. Truck has everything I want and has brand new tires on it now. Maybe add some 35’s after these 33’s wear out but thats about it. Buying a used truck is always a gamble. Thanks for the help!

 

[Dean2]

Thanks for the replies. I am leaning towards buying this one with the valve body and torque converter replaced. Used Power Wagons with 50-80k mile range are $10-15 more. Then I worry about paying more money and transmission goes out on the lower mileage truck anyway. This truck will sit in the driveway most of the time since I have a company car. I won’t be trying to get more power from a programmer or add a lift or bigger tires. Truck has everything I want and has brand new tires on it now. Maybe add some 35’s after these 33’s wear out but thats about it. Buying a used truck is always a gamble. Thanks for the help!

You can do a lot of work to this one for the 10,000 difference. I would suggest you get an independant mechanic you trust to do a detailed inspection and if it passes you should be good to go.