Salt sucks

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HaasJunkie

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I went and got a cosmoline RP-342 undercoat job professionally done last fall, and this is how things are going... :sad72:

Did I do her a dis-service by getting this done? It was supposed to be a wax/grease coating that doesn't hold moisture like rubber coatings do yet here we are. It wasn't a spotless frame when it was painted but you can clearly see further development on the first photo after I picked off some of the flecking paint from the factory. The guy offered to do some touch-ups free of charge, but I'm hesitant on that offer as I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't have coated it in the first place?

It is my daily and I try to wash it weekly especially in winter (with undercarriage wash), and barely six months is quite disheartening. Does anyone have any advice for this situation?

IMG_0129.jpgIMG_0120.jpgIMG_0119.jpg
 

LouM

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Once the rust has started over coating it will not stop it, oil may soak in and slow it but nothing will stop it. Unless you remove all traces of rust and moisture and then seal it you will have a hard time controlling it.
With rust starting under the "factory" undercoating it would be very difficult ($$$$) to prep it for better protection.
If it hasn't started to rust and is dry when Cosmoline is applied it should stay rust free. I am surprised that your coating isn't more visible.
I'd be tempted to needle gun the existing rust and then recoat with a heavier coating.
My prefered method is Waxoly applied prior to any start of rusting.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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The only thing that's going to stop the rust, is to completely sand blast the frame to remove rust that's already been started, I live in upstate Ny where they use Mag chloride and rock salt, those guys had no business rust proofing your frame over existing rust, I can't see any traces of their undercoating looks like it washed off by you doing a undercarriage spray wash, what condition is the rest of the truck in, wheel wells, rocker panels, door panels, welded seams?
 
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HaasJunkie

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The only thing that's going to stop the rust, is to completely sand blast the frame to remove rust that's already been started, I live in upstate Ny where they use Mag chloride and rock salt, those guys had no business rust proofing your frame over existing rust, I can't see any traces of their undercoating looks like it washed off by you doing a undercarriage spray wash, what condition is the rest of the truck in, wheel wells, rocker panels, door panels, welded seams?
The rest of the truck is actually pretty good, I was foolishly under the impression by the coating shop that using a neutralizing agent before application would prevent further development (A good mistake that was) which is why I'm so bummed about this as the frame would've been better off without all this.

Rockers are perfect, wheel wells save for the rear passenger are good, and the undercoating is still there it's that waxy matte black color, you can see the drip accumulation points on the bottom (not the weld **** beads). It is still very much there but the rust is developing underneath I can see it, that's what really worries me.
 

mrack

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Looks to me your frequent washing washed most the undercoating off. The areas pictured are easy to take care of though. Wire wheel on a grinder, strip down the areas, then use a rust dissolver followed by something like rustoleum rust reformer. Prime and paint with a good enamel paint
 

skates15

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I got the same coating last fall and when I asked the tech if I could use the car wash under spray they said a couple times a winter would be okay, but not frequently. I live in MN, lots of salt.
 

GTyankee

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Think of it like this: undercoating is prevention, while rust-proofing is defense. For complete rust protection, it is often best to use both procedures

Undercoating is Rubberized Coating, most often applied when the vehicle is clean & new

On automobiles, lanolin fills in all of the nooks and crannies of the chassis with a sticky, wax-like substance that's been derived directly from... sheep glands. It may sound strange, spraying sheep funk across your vehicle's underbelly, but it really does work.


more about under body treatments

 

AlexC2350

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That sucks man. I would say that you got taken for a ride on that undercoat. You want to stay away from anything that dries and does stay fluid. Moisture and salt get underneath and accelerate rust, especially if you already had a little. You may be able to scrape that crap off and oil it and still save it. I’ve been using fluid film on my trucks a for years. Make sure you don’t just do the frame but rockers, wheel wells, bumpers, door bottoms, tailgate the oil will spread into the nooks and crannies. I’ve never personally had any experience with POR or anything like that but I know it doesn’t do anything for body panels, only works on the frame which is only half the problem.
 

zrock

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What i have done in the past and will probably do this year on this truck.. Scrape the loose rust of and Por 15 overtop, Did this on my old toyota and 20 years later their is still no rust on the frame where i painted it. The last few trucks i have been spraying the underside with my used motor oil mixed with mineral spirits, pretty much stopped the rust in its tracks on my old chev.. A little messy in the driveway and stinks for a few days while it drips on the exhaust
 

markabby

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if you want to spot treat rust, check out POR-15 i believe on amazon. I've used it before and it seems to work pretty good. When i lived in NY my 2011 Ram was starting to rust around the rear wheel wells, so i painted that stuff on...right over the rust and it seemed to have stopped it. Now, i just use it on my trailer...no salt here in southern Kentucky!!

but, if you open the can, you'll never get the lid off once used, i suggest putting that Seran food wrap on the can first then put the lid back on. Use a throw away brush too.

didn't that rust coating come with a guarantee?
 

GTyankee

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I think that IF i lived in the Northern USA
I would take a LONG Weekend & drive to the nearest KROWN Rust Proofing
They drill small holes into enclosed body cavities & pressure spray a rust proofing into them & then spray the exposed under carriage.

It gets your clothes real filthy, for a month or so, but you can buy coveralls for working under your vehicles & then afterwards go to a laundromat, or your better half , may shoot you
 

BenchTest

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Think of it like this: undercoating is prevention, while rust-proofing is defense. For complete rust protection, it is often best to use both procedures

Undercoating is Rubberized Coating, most often applied when the vehicle is clean & new

On automobiles, lanolin fills in all of the nooks and crannies of the chassis with a sticky, wax-like substance that's been derived directly from... sheep glands. It may sound strange, spraying sheep funk across your vehicle's underbelly, but it really does work.


more about under body treatments

+1 on lanolin. It smells like hell until it fully "cures". But given the nature of the product, it creeps really well and seals out moisture and oxygen (need both to rust). The creep being the key. It'll get into places that normal products won't. It's not permanent though. It'll require re-application every year or two depending on what your undercarriage spray habits (and salt spray exposure from driving) look like. My frame looks similar at 80k miles. I live in salt-hell as well. I use FluidFilm and LPS3 in rotation. Again, sealing out future moisture and oxygen slows it way down. You'll never fully win against midwestern salt driving. I was NEUROTIC about metal treatment to the point my wife and I were at odds with each other because I was obsessed with trying to win the battle. I finally concluded that I'll just "slow down the process and try to make the rust match the miles". Sucks, but it's nature doing what nature does.
 

caulk04

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I skipped a lot of this thread, but the area you show at the rear control arm mounts is extremely high wash and very exposed. Nothing is going to stay on there better than paint. Sand clean and paint this area often if it bothers you.

However, exposed areas like that are not what's going to get ya. Inside the rockers, doors, bed and frame. That's what will wreck a vehicle.
 

DodgeDude99

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After jumping on the POR15 hype with my first K5 Blazer, I tell everyone to don’t waste your $$$.

It flakes off no matter how you prep it.


I live around Chicago. Every spring the truck goes on jackstands. I pressure wash the hell out of it, I then hit the rust with a convertor, & then spray bomb it in satin black.
 

quickster2

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Every spring after the salt is washed off of the roads I wash the undercarriage of all our vehicles with the attached tool. Every couple of years I go to the local Krown dealer and get it applied. In between, I use Krown or Fluid Film spray for touch ups. On the trucks make sure you remove the tail lights and spray between the inner and outer panels of the box.
 

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