Shout out to MoreGrip

[Bigskyroadglide]

Just a note to send a huge thank you to MoreGrip.

His old thread on how he lowered his RCSB truck has been a great help to me as I have sorted out my new to me, 2014 RCSB truck.

I've slowly been following his advice and while I've strayed on a few items, I've got to say, the components he chose and how he modified them has created the best riding short bed truck I've ever owned.

My set up is ground force 2/3 springs, stock front sway bar, f150 end links and energy suspension sway bar end links bushings. Bilstein 5125 shocks front and rear modified as MoreGrip recommended in his thread, core 4x4 control arms(U&L), core 4x4 panhard bar, (curved), bell tech panhard bar drop bracket, 1500 hellwig rear sway bar set in middle hole, energy suspension sway bar bushings and stock rear sway bar end links. It rides and handles fantastic and has gotten rid of 99% of the sway that was present when purchased. While I still have inez no cut brackets to install, they may be held till later, as I really need to replace the drive shaft before something unfortunate happens. As the better riding handling truck is starting to see higher speeds.

So thank you MoreGrip for the detailed write up, the pictures and part numbers and the absolute fantastic manner in which you got them to work together.

I highly recommend anyone lowering a RCSB to spend the time reading his thread.

Thank you!

 

[Wild one]

Just a note to send a huge thank you to MoreGrip.

His old thread on how he lowered his RCSB truck has been a great help to me as I have sorted out my new to me, 2014 RCSB truck.

I've slowly been following his advice and while I've strayed on a few items, I've got to say, the components he chose and how he modified them has created the best riding short bed truck I've ever owned.

My set up is ground force 2/3 springs, stock front sway bar, f150 end links and energy suspension sway bar end links bushings. Bilstein 5125 shocks front and rear modified as MoreGrip recommended in his thread, core 4x4 control arms(U&L), core 4x4 panhard bar, (curved), bell tech panhard bar drop bracket, 1500 hellwig rear sway bar set in middle hole, energy suspension sway bar bushings and stock rear sway bar end links. It rides and handles fantastic and has gotten rid of 99% of the sway that was present when purchased. While I still have inez no cut brackets to install, they may be held till later, as I really need to replace the drive shaft before something unfortunate happens. As the better riding handling truck is starting to see higher speeds.

So thank you MoreGrip for the detailed write up, the pictures and part numbers and the absolute fantastic manner in which you got them to work together.

I highly recommend anyone lowering a RCSB to spend the time reading his thread.

Thank you!

View attachment 239444

Do the brackets before you do the driveshaft,as you need driveshaft measurements to get the right length usually,and the brackets will change that length.I'll warn you right now,the majority of guys who start out with the No Cut brackets,usually end up swapping them out to the Cut brackets shortly afterwards.You're money and time,but don't say you haven't been warned.Got a link to this thread you're referring to?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Here's the link

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/starting-my-drop-project-soon-parts-are-on-order.88633/

 

[1SloRam]

Do the brackets before you do the driveshaft,as you need driveshaft measurements to get the right length usually,and the brackets will change that length.I'll warn you right now,the majority of guys who start out with the No Cut brackets,usually end up swapping them out to the Cut brackets shortly afterwards.You're money and time,but don't say you haven't been warned.Got a link to this thread you're referring to?

What’s the difference? I have illicit no cut , about to go to a 3/5 drop from my current 2/4. I read if you’re 6” or lower in the rear you need the cut kit but I can’t find that thread anymore.

 

[Wild one]

What’s the difference? I have illicit no cut , about to go to a 3/5 drop from my current 2/4. I read if you’re 6” or lower in the rear you need the cut kit but I can’t find that thread anymore.

Where the diff sits usually changes a bit with the brackets,but try it your way if you want,you're only out a driveshaft if it doesn't work out,lol

 

[1SloRam]

Where the diff sits usually changes a bit with the brackets,but try it your way if you want,you're only out a driveshaft if it doesn't work out,lol

Haha, 6 speed guy here, I think driveshafts aren’t an issue. Got some local guys that specialize in springs bags and such to help. Just thought I’d ask the difference from a seemingly knowledgeable Ram guy.

 

[Wild one]

Haha, 6 speed guy here, I think driveshafts aren’t an issue. Got some local guys that specialize in springs bags and such to help. Just thought I’d ask the difference from a seemingly knowledgeable Ram guy.

Being 6 speed you're okay,for some reason i thought you were 8 speed.Why are you worried about your 6 speeds driveshaft,they aren't prone to giving you any issues.It's only the regular cab shortbox 8 speed trucks that have driveshaft issues.Your truck still uses a normal driveshaft with a slip yoke into the transmission,it's the 8 speed trucks with the slip joint in the middle of the driveshaft that have issues.Personally i wouldn't worry about the driveshaft in your truck,it's good to 150 mph if the u-joints are in decent shape.

 

[1SloRam]

Being 6 speed you're okay,for some reason i thought you were 8 speed.Why are you worried about your 6 speeds driveshaft,they aren't prone to giving you any issues.It's only the regular cab shortbox 8 speed trucks that have driveshaft issues.Your truck still uses a normal driveshaft with a slip yoke into the transmission,it's the 8 speed trucks with the slip joint in the middle of the driveshaft that have issues.Personally i wouldn't worry about the driveshaft in your truck,it's good to 150 mph if the u-joints are in decent shape.

Nah I’m not worried, I was joking back with you. I just honestly couldn’t remember exactly what the cut kit offered that the no cut kit didn’t. You know your stuff, figured I’d ask you.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

So Wild one, best I can tell the cut version (see pic), is one piece. Essentially bolts to the stock attachment points but you have to cut the top perch off in order to mount them and it does not appear you have to drill alternative holes in the side perches to hold the brackets. Is this correct?

You could tack weld them but it's not required

 

[Wild one]

So Wild one, best I can tell the cut version (see pic), is one piece. Essentially bolts to the stock attachment points but you have to cut the top perch off in order to mount them and it does not appear you have to drill alternative holes in the side perches to hold the brackets. Is this correct?

You could tack weld them but it's not required

View attachment 239605

If you want be careful cutting off the upper mounts,and you can always weld them back on if you want. I bought a another housing and put my rebuilt original housing in storage,to throw back under the truck for when i decide to sell the truck.The replacement housing is the one that got the True Trac and welded on brackets,but i still kept the pieces i cut off just in case i ever need to put them back on.My intentions are to put the original diff back under the truck when it goes down the road,and i'll sell the tricked up diff seperately,and if the new owner of the diff wants the brackets welded back on,it'll be easy enough to do.

You don't have to tack them in place,but it will save you having to stay on top of the bolt maintence. I tacked my Illicit brackets in place when i installed them years ago,and i've never had any issues with the bolts backing off,or the brackets trying to move around. A couple small tack welds is all you need to keep them solidly locked in place.

Roughly what you have to cut off for the Illicit brackets,i'm guessing it won't be much differant for the Inez brackets

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Thanks for the visual, this confirms my thoughts.

What feedback do you know about on those that installed the no cut and why they changed to the cut?

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for the visual, this confirms my thoughts.

What feedback do you know about on those that installed the no cut and why they changed to the cut?

Haven't paid much attention,but it seems to have something to do with clearance issues and the suspension bottoming out on the frame or something similiar.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Haven't paid much attention,but it seems to have something to do with clearance issues and the suspension bottoming out on the frame or something similiar.

Ok thanks

 

[6speed4.7]

Haven't paid much attention,but it seems to have something to do with clearance issues and the suspension bottoming out on the frame or something similiar.

Exactly
I have a Belltech 2/4 with Illicit no-cut brackets
Just cut the rear bump stop cups off and mocked up the rear end with 2” Belltech progressive bump stops before I drilled and tapped the holes for the bump stop studs
I jacked the rear end up until the 2” bump stops hit- it left 1”of clearance to the frame and the upper control arm bracket
The top no-cut bracket will hit the frame if the Belltech 2” bump stop compresses 1”
Cutting the top bracket off the rear end for the cut-style brackets on a 4”+ drop increases that clearance bigtime
Probably going to change to 3” tall progressive bump stops

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for the visual, this confirms my thoughts.

What feedback do you know about on those that installed the no cut and why they changed to the cut?

Did a little digging,besides what 6 speed said,apparently the upper locating arm will also bind on the frame,especially if you're using bigger diameter aftermarket locating arms.Apparently it'll go into a bind towards the front locating mount .I asked a couple guys i trust who have switched from the Inez "no cuts" to the "cut" versions,and both said they could see tracks on their bigger diameter aftermarket locating arms where the arms had bottomed out / contacted the frame close to the front upper arms frame mount.I think that might only be a case if you're down towards 4" or slightly more and trying to make the no cut brackets work.I know Ryan (illicit) reconmended only running his later no cuts up to a 3" drop if you had bigger diameter aftermarket locating arms,and i talked to the man on the phone a few times,as it was my idea to add the bolt on plate for the e-brake cable on his Illicit cut brackets. I was also his first big order after he'd developed the first set on Jose's truck,as i bought 4 sets of his brackets and spent a fair bit of time promoting them for him,the only guy who bought more brackets then me was Matt/Moes,lol.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Thanks Wild one. My rear is down 3, as I have the ground force 2 / 3 kit.

I can absolutely agree, it looks based on my study of the brackets, being that low binding could be the issue and the cut version is better suited for a 4 or more inch drop.

The 2 reasons, I am looking at installing the no cut, I'm down 3, not 4 or more and have zero interest in going lower. 2nd, I am looking for high speed handling and stability vs straight line performance. My hardest launch rarely breaks the tires loose but I will consistently run 100 plus on longer trips in non congested areas.

I don't have a preference other than accomplishing the above. Whether it's cut or no cut does not matter. I would prefer to install once but be able to return to stock.

I own the no cut, purchased at a very reasonable price from a member here. They are new never installed and are the new version that he purchased in September of 2020. I am certain I could get my $$ back if needed. I have the means to purchase the cut but have little desire to cut up my stock rear.

I am heeding your advice about double work and have chosen to do nothing currently till I sort this out for myself.

Thanks for your help and the diligence. I truly appreciate it.

 

[Graygoose]

Lowered RCSB ROCK!

 

[Wild one]

Thanks Wild one. My rear is down 3, as I have the ground force 2 / 3 kit.

I can absolutely agree, it looks based on my study of the brackets, being that low binding could be the issue and the cut version is better suited for a 4 or more inch drop.

The 2 reasons, I am looking at installing the no cut, I'm down 3, not 4 or more and have zero interest in going lower. 2nd, I am looking for high speed handling and stability vs straight line performance. My hardest launch rarely breaks the tires loose but I will consistently run 100 plus on longer trips in non congested areas.

I don't have a preference other than accomplishing the above. Whether it's cut or no cut does not matter. I would prefer to install once but be able to return to stock.

I own the no cut, purchased at a very reasonable price from a member here. They are new never installed and are the new version that he purchased in September of 2020. I am certain I could get my $$ back if needed. I have the means to purchase the cut but have little desire to cut up my stock rear.

I am heeding your advice about double work and have chosen to do nothing currently till I sort this out for myself.

Thanks for your help and the diligence. I truly appreciate it.

One of the early Illicit "cut" sets i bought went on a regular cab shortbox 4X4 that was scary to follow,the truck was only dropped a couple inches,but at 75+ mph it wanted to swap lanes,and it was actually scary to be behind .After we installed the brackets the truck straightened right out and would track good right up to the factory 106 mph limiter. Once you lower these trucks,and don't address the geometery issues,the locating arms have a tendenancy to want to steer the rear diff under the right circumstances.My truck never had the high speed sway issues that alot of the rcsb's exhitibit after lowering,but it did have killer wheelhop issues after lowering,to the point where i was scared it might break an axle.After installing the brackets i've never had any issue with wheelhop since.I've ran my truck up to 153 mph ,(before i chickened out,lol),but even at that speed it tracked dead straight and you could easily control it with one hand on the wheel.The trucks seen the high side of 140 a few times,as i play with the local Challenger/Charger club,and every once inawhile i've had to prove the truck will keep up,lol

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Good feedback, I still need to make the decision and do the work. I'm still researching but you are convincing it your comments.

Thanks

 

[Wild one]

Good feedback, I still need to make the decision and do the work. I'm still researching but you are convincing it your comments.

Thanks

When i did the brackets i also knew i was going to do a gear swap and True Trac at the same time. My original diff had been rebuilt twice under warrenty ,and the dealer had told me they might have a hard time pushing a 3rd rebuild through,so i bought a spare diff and modded it,and put my freshly rebuilt original diff into storage. So cutting the upper mounts off the modded diff didn't bother me much,lol. BTW: the stock limited slip units don't like drag radials and water box burnouts ,i went through 2 of the factory lsd's in less then 12,000 miles ..