So I Got My Light Bar and Magnetic Mounts; Wiring Question

[MyRAMatDunkinDonuts]

Anyone know what the easiest way to wire such that the bar is only powered when the truck is on?

As I understand the wiring that came with the bar, if I just attach the leads to positive and negative, the rocker switch will remain with a red LED indicating the "off" position 24/7. I'm guessing that can't be good for the battery (even though, presumably, that LED takes up very little energy)? Or is that absolutely fine as it is a daily driver?

See the actual wires I got, am I missing something? Where are 3 and 4? Do I have to somehow splice those in?

 

[jasonw]

Looks to me like wires 3 and 4 are for you to hook up/splice somewhere for ignition power source. In other words, it would do what you are asking... not light up/pull power unless 3 and 4 are energized as well, meaning the truck is running.

 

[Whiteannerdy]

I will have to go and check my setup again. But I got rid of my toggle switch and changed to a wireless 433mhz relay and used the home link button. Note that my wire harness only had one positive and one negative to connect to the battery and then the connection to the light bar. The toggle switch had a disconnect with 3 wires in line.

There was 3 wires to the toggle switch. 1 is positive and the other 2 are negative. One stays connected always but depends on toggle position will light the LED on the toggle red or green. The third wire when connected to the positive will close the main relay and pull power from the battery to power on the light bar. I skipped the toggle light wire and wired the positive and negative into my wireless relay. This wireless relay is then independently powered and only receives power when the truck is in the on position or running. Turning the key to accessory doesn’t provide power and I also added another in line fuse set to pop at 2.5 amps.

You could cut either the positive wire or the negative wire and add another relay in line(toggle switch wires). This relay will need a positive signal wire(use a fuse just in case). Then connect your wire to F101 in your fuse box. No splicing needed. I was also able to run the wire out near the ground and not cut or alter the seal around my fuse box. See the below post to explain the fuse location I used.


Empty fuse slot with accessory power
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...orum.com/showthread.php?t=107294&share_type=t


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