Synthetic Motor Oil Poll 2017

[Burla]

^^

I'll just add that sn+ is neither good not bad for a hemi persay, usually they simply lower CA and add MAG which is a neutral move imo. Still look at other indicators when choosing an oil such as viscosity and moly. You can get sn+ with high moly, I believe that is what amsoil did.

SN+ was a compromise because they have not been able to successfully achieve the goals of gf-6, but gf-5 oils where leaving the possibility of lspi in di engines. So they allowed a small measure such as lowering CA and adding MAG to help combat lspi. This is a mid step behind what they are trying to do and develop gf-6, which will be lspi friendly and supposedly will protect against wear, which I am very skeptical about as you all should be as well. You can look at sn+ as being gf5.5, as in they are heading in the right direction for a one oil fits all category. I serious doubt anything in this category will be better for a hemi then the hearty gf-5 oils. We have old engines that benefit from older built oils, modern engines don't resemble our engines in any way. One size fits all means we ********* that believe their **** will have engines not protected the same as if we didn't listen to their garbage.

The gov't has a goal period, if it was them alone gf-6 would have already happened and we would be running sparce oil in our engines. Thankfully the auto manu's and oil manu's have some say in this, so they used timing chain wear to slow the gov'ts roll. However, I am betting dime to donuts the gf-6 will protect an engine, but nowhere near a long oci. So if someone decides to go with whatever they come up with in gf-6, consider a short oil change interval! Especially guys running 20 weight. Here's the thing, they are adding a bunch of stuff to these oils for carbon deposits, however the more things you add to a base oil, the more that base oil will fail to protect in the long run. They still haven't developed self healing vii's yet, and they refuse to require PAO/Esters an as options. So why do they think they can squeeze that much more out of ground oil then they currently have? It's just not working, they keep extending the gf-6 deadline for years and years, but some day this **** will hit the shelves. So you guys might want to stock up on your favorite oils when you see them on sale. When gf-6 hits, you wont be able to buy your favorite oil in gf-5, just like you can't buy gf-4 now. Only a few oils you can get older spec's, some of the diesel oils. But mainstream **** leaves old specs alone. If you like that PUP 0w40, stock up. I bought at least 3 years worth PUP 5w30 for the wife's car, likely I will get a couple more if they keep running that deal on amazon.

 

[Ramnewbie]

I haven't read up on it in awhile but the way I understood it awhile ago was when gf6 comes out it will be split between gf6a and gf6b. One of them will be geared towards the new light weight oils and the other towards the common oils we have now. I don't know if that means 2 different formulas or just different additves or what. The way I understood it was there was still all kinds of issues to be worked out on gf6.

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[Truck Fun]

Had some errands to do today so I checked four different places today for their stockings of Pennzoil. Three had the Platinum but none had the Ultra Platinum. Two places had newer jugs that included the label statement "Redesigned for Modern Turbocharged Engines". Was hoping to find at least one place with the Ultra. Will talk to the dealer service dept more when I get to the oil change time but I'm guessing that what the dealer stocks is the Platinum and not the Ultra Platinum.

 

[Burla]

I buy PUP and store it, I don't know any other way with that stuff. I think it's days are probably numbered.

 

[Truck Fun]

So even if Ultra Platinum is better than Platinum for a Hemi, isn't it fair to say that Platinum is better than conventional Mopar/Pennzoil?

 

[Burla]

yes, generally any random group 3 will be better then conventional, especially for engines that should be kept clean.

 

[Old Fart]

Funny that PUP is available almost anywhere up here!!

 

[R.L.K.]

Funny that PUP is available almost anywhere up here!!

Very strange how Canada has PUP and the lower 48 does not [emoji848][emoji848]

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[GottaBeKD]

Very strange how Canada has PUP and the lower 48 does not [emoji848][emoji848]

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All over the place here

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[Monster_Ram1500]

I add in Marvel mystery oil with every oil change.

 

[U&A]

I add in Marvel mystery oil with every oil change.

How much do you add?

That is not the best practice but we dont tell people what to do around here...

But it WILL lower your TBN

Hurts additive PPM levels

Hurts basically the “stability” of your base stock...viscosity, HTHS, NOAK, Viscosity index..... the list goes on

It is a highly refined solvent, like mineral spirits and the like.... or also close to gasoline but not quite as refined. Adding solvent to your oil is not a good practice

Unless you are doing a temporary “flush”.

Don’t take this personally. Just trying to help sir.


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[Burla]

The real issue is it will **** up your viscosity and think about that if you are dumping this into 20 weight oil. There are a lot of things people do because of old school stuff and going off what people "say". But I say listen to the research and then if you decide to do it, go for it. Just look into any product that anyone decides on running, That is what we do here. You see MMO below, it just isn't something you want to dump in large portions into a crank case.

Want to hear something funny, read what blackstone said, apparently this guy ran MMO and got bearing damage. He thought maybe the copper was from the MMO, but it was from his bearings. Why? Did running this additive contribute to that? dunno, But I bet that guy wish he didn't run it.

 

[Hootbro]

I like MMO but would not let it anywhere near the oil crank case of any modern engine of the last 30+ years. It is great as a fuel additive especially on carb'd applications and somewhat of a fuel stabilizer for stored fuel, but it's heyday for oil crank case inclusion was back when 40 and 50 weight oils were the norm.

 

[Monster_Ram1500]

How much do you add?

That is not the best practice but we dont tell people what to do around here...

But it WILL lower your TBN

Hurts additive PPM levels

Hurts basically the “stability” of your base stock...viscosity, HTHS, NOAK, Viscosity index..... the list goes on

It is a highly refined solvent, like mineral spirits and the like.... or also close to gasoline but not quite as refined. Adding solvent to your oil is not a good practice

Unless you are doing a temporary “flush”.

Don’t take this personally. Just trying to help sir.


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Hey thanks for the info. I was told different by mechanics I have worked with. but I add half the bottle to the oil and then the other half to the gas tank. I guess I will stop that. I didn't know all of what you just told me. Maybe I will just add it to the gas tank instead.

 

[Burla]

Maybe I will just add it to the gas tank instead.

What would be the thinking on that? That is better then adding to the crankcase, and would have some benefit as an upper cylinder lube but I wouldn't expect much cleaning from that, and you may need to add a higher octane to compensate for the oil content. It is a very light solvent, but not as volatile as gas. It likely doesn't even burn, put a match in some you will see. It is more like a mineral oil then a true solvent, put an ounce in a jar next to an ounce of acetone, the MMO will still be there in a year, the acetone will be long gone. So to call it a solvent is kind of being generous with the word solvent. Maybe, just maybe if added to a higher octane gas it can help alleviate some of the things that happen with ethonal.

Now, MMO is old school technology that is fun to use, half the fun is smelling it, but if you really want to add something to the gas tank that will clean and be an upper cylinder lube, try a PEA cleaner. There are two types mostly, ones like techron that are more like PEA in solvent, and ones like Redline s1 and Amsoil PI that are PEA in oil. I have MMO in my garage, basically as a bolt soaker, chain saw soaker, etc. I like the stuff, but I wouldn't go using an inferior technology in my expensive truck when there are real options that achieve real cleaning of the injectors and combustion chamber. I believe MMO to be fairly harmless in the gas tank, and I hate to burst peoples bubble, but just saying there are products that will do better for ya then that. I wish MMO had PEA in it, but according to their msds there is next to no detergency in that product.

Fuel cleaners are usually strong solvents or detergents, there is no way weak solvents do any cleaning. Gas itself is a pretty decent solvent, adding a solvent that doesn't burn dumbs it down it doesn't make it better as far as cleaning goes. Yes, upper cylinder lube, it will make the engine sound smoother in many situations, but so would adding a qrt of engine oil to your gas tank, but most people wouldn't do that, but adding MMO is a similar thing as just that.

 

[Monster_Ram1500]

What would be the thinking on that? That is better then adding to the crankcase, and would have some benefit as an upper cylinder lube but I wouldn't expect much cleaning from that, and you may need to add a higher octane to compensate for the oil content. It is a very light solvent, but not as volatile as gas. It likely doesn't even burn, put a match in some you will see. It is more like a mineral oil then a true solvent, put an ounce in a jar next to an ounce of acetone, the MMO will still be there in a year, the acetone will be long gone. So to call it a solvent is kind of being generous with the word solvent. Maybe, just maybe if added to a higher octane gas it can help alleviate some of the things that happen with ethonal.

Now, MMO is old school technology that is fun to use, half the fun is smelling it, but if you really want to add something to the gas tank that will clean and be an upper cylinder lube, try a PEA cleaner. There are two types mostly, ones like techron that are more like PEA in solvent, and ones like Redline s1 and Amsoil PI that are PEA in oil. I have MMO in my garage, basically as a bolt soaker, chain saw soaker, etc. I like the stuff, but I wouldn't go using an inferior technology in my expensive truck when there are real options that achieve real cleaning of the injectors and combustion chamber. I believe MMO to be fairly harmless in the gas tank, and I hate to burst peoples bubble, but just saying there are products that will do better for ya then that. I wish MMO had PEA in it, but according to their msds there is next to no detergency in that product.

Fuel cleaners are usually strong solvents or detergents, there is no way weak solvents do any cleaning. Gas itself is a pretty decent solvent, adding a solvent that doesn't burn dumbs it down it doesn't make it better as far as cleaning goes. Yes, upper cylinder lube, it will make the engine sound smoother in many situations, but so would adding a qrt of engine oil to your gas tank, but most people wouldn't do that, but adding MMO is a similar thing as just that.

I def look into what your talking about. I am learning something new this weekend.

 

[Big Blue Hemi]

I have been using Pennzoil UP 5-20 and recently started adding Liqui Moly (MoS2) aka Moly 2009. This is a good recipe.
I have been contemplating going to a 5-30 weight but not sure if that is needed or if it will negate my extended warranty.....
Any thoughts?

 

[Burla]

In my opinion if you have an extended warranty I wouldn't be using additives or 5w30. Just use FCA spec oil and keep copious records.

 

[Big Blue Hemi]

In my opinion if you have an extended warranty I wouldn't be using additives or 5w30. Just use FCA spec oil and keep copious records.

Understood, no 5-30.
You don't like the idea of using Moly or just because of the warranty? We get wide temperature swings here in Jersey. The heat can get oppressive.

 

[Burla]

Use a moly formula with hemi spec, should be good. 75ppm tri nuclear moly has almost the same effect as 200ppm moly, the main difference being a little time as in 200 hits the coefficient of friction a hair faster. That study is buried in the syn thread somewhere, recently a similar study is at Bob's PCMO section probably somewhere in the last twenty pages over there. But, you spent the money on an extended warranty, I don't believe any additives are suggested or approved by FCA. So when you go your own way, that can give a warranty company ammo, and unfortunately we have seen these companies deny stuff for the smallest of things. your call, but you already spent good money of that, I'd just use an oil that meets the spec and pay attention to your change interval if it was me.