Synthetic Oil

[U&A]

Well , I did it jokingly [emoji16] and I ended it up positively by saying your a Lumberjack warrior [emoji1303]

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*****,

I know you were joking. Iv got thick skin brother. Guess i did kinda put you on the spot with that post.

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[Gero]

Is 5w20 not recommended here?
My truck is a 2017 5.7 and I'd rather not void the warranty. I basically keep the receipts of the oil and filter and log the date and mileage. I change my oil every 6000miles approximately. I haven't read through the thousands of pages reil but isnt 5w20 required for the cylinder deactivation system to function properly?

Well I'll say I know Qsud is good oil , but imo , your shooting yourself in the foot by using any 20 wt oil in a 395hp V-8 engine . Assuming you have the 5.7L ?

Just my opinion though [emoji106]

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[huntergreen]

Is 5w20 not recommended here?
My truck is a 2017 5.7 and I'd rather not void the warranty. I basically keep the receipts of the oil and filter and log the date and mileage. I change my oil every 6000miles approximately. I haven't read through the thousands of pages reil but isnt 5w20 required for the cylinder deactivation system to function properly?

No one using 5/30 has had any issues with the MDS system.

Yes there could be warranty issues, but there our ways around it.

 

[Hemi395]

Ron, that's an amazing UOA!! Wow!!

 

[R.L.K.]

Is 5w20 not recommended here?
My truck is a 2017 5.7 and I'd rather not void the warranty. I basically keep the receipts of the oil and filter and log the date and mileage. I change my oil every 6000miles approximately. I haven't read through the thousands of pages reil but isnt 5w20 required for the cylinder deactivation system to function properly?

I'm at wk so I can't elaborate much Sir , I'll say most use 30wt around here and several use 40 wt all of which have had no MDS issues including myself.

The 20wt spec for the MDS is total BS C.A.F.E. Govt . Standards for an unnoticeable fuel savings ...

If your gonna use a 20wt at least you picked a good one [emoji1303]

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[R.L.K.]

Ron, that's an amazing UOA!! Wow!!

Thanks buddy !

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[SyN]

Thursday: 4Qts RL C+ will be going in after I suck out 4qts of the FF/Schaeffers.
Hopefully this will benefit my 68RFE in the long run.

Will do this procedure 2 more times before Nov.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Ok, the carquest oil does have AOC moulded in bottom of bottle. None of our other oils have that mark. Castrol actually has a little bp symbol.

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[tsielski]

Makes our manifold bolt issue easier to accept.

Have to believe that a large part of this problem is the fact that those engines have an "open deck" configuration. Meaning that the cylinders are NOT supported by ANY block material for more than a few centimeters below the deck surface. The ONLY thing stabilizing the cylinders is the clamping force of the cylinder head and the head gasket. Under higher boost conditions the cylinders can move around a bit causing any number of issues. Not a particularly "good idea" from Ford. Only fix IMO would be a re-design of the block to eliminate the open deck configuration.

 

[smiley]

Well it’s 70 at night and 95 during the day here. Always 70% + humidity. Fast forward a month or 2 and it could be in the teens at night. Georgia weather is the most bipolar of them all


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Well I don’t agree on the weather haha. In. MN and ND I have seen many 70 degree swings such as 35 then -35 another in hours not days. Just a couple of weeks ago we had 108 and 5 months earlier it was 8. I love the changes though so not at all complaining. I like surviving winter to have beautiful summers.

 

[Burla]

Shiet, if that is Smiley's backyard Ram Forum is paying him too much.

Is 5w20 not recommended here?
My truck is a 2017 5.7 and I'd rather not void the warranty. I basically keep the receipts of the oil and filter and log the date and mileage. I change my oil every 6000miles approximately. I haven't read through the thousands of pages reil but isnt 5w20 required for the cylinder deactivation system to function properly?

Do what your brain tells you, it's your equipment and your burden either way. Sounds like you have heavy value in playing the manu's playbook, that is a sound strategy. We have guys running heavier then 30 weight with no mds issues. If you believe in poll stats around 40-50% of the forum uses 30 weight. Which means your strategy is in the popular side of it.

However, the entire reason this thread became a "thing" is because of hemi tick and cam/lifter problems and issues. Ask yourself the question, did fca recommend 5w20 for hemi's because that is what they wanted, or what the epa wanted? If you believe it is what FCA wanted, then why the hell did they ask for 40 weight in the same engine non mds in the HD units? Because that is how you protect metal is the answer, and the epa isn't up their ass on HD units. Not only that, but the api forces oil formulations to be sparce to get their ratings in 20 and 30 weight oil, why would that be?? They have no such requirement on 40 weight oils. FCA sold you a truck, now it's yours, just like ours are ours.

There is a lot of misinformation in this thread, a lot of us have learned as we go, a lot of info has changed. You don't need to read the thread, but there a group of guys who have had hemi tick go away and have recorded their experience, and that is the value here. h395 has done the most work on it, as in testing the most oils over time with uoa's, U&A as well killed his tick, and RLK has some great info backed up in uoa's and has ideas on how best to protect his cam, dude spent his life jetting around the world working on helicopters and has done great work here. Whether or not the work we have done will actually gain us Cam/Lifter life will never be known as a fact, but what we do is make a strategy based on science and roll with it.

Cam/lifters are a weakness in these hemi's even if you don't have hemi tick. Just maybe providing those items with a hearty oil both in film strength and detergency will allow them to live longer. FCA made a hemi specific oil 0w40 PUP in tandem with Pennzoil that is similar in strategy to what we've been doing here before that oil was even made. So I would say we were on the right track. These fellas contribute not only on oil, but these guys have many many dyi threads. They have helped many ram owners, and their hearts and brains are in the right place. I'm about to use h395's dyi thread to do my first coolant flush, so I got to get at it or this day will pass. Peace Burla

Sorry about just posting three guys, there are many many more valuable contributors, I mean no disrespect. It is just those three have been here almost since the beginning and as all of us know have really went through trials of finding lubrication strategies. Welcome to ramily if don't mind my say so as you still appear to be new here. Best source for Rams anywhere this side of tdr for Cummins. If I had another Cummins I would be in both forums, but for hemi guys this spot is it imo.

 

[KevinInVT]

Well I don’t agree on the weather haha. In. MN and ND I have seen many 70 degree swings such as 35 then -35 another in hours not days. Just a couple of weeks ago we had 108 and 5 months earlier it was 8. I love the changes though so not at all complaining. I like surviving winter to have beautiful summers.

Haha similar here too. We had 101 about a week ago, then 4 days later we had a frost. Makes for a short growing season, but typically nice mild summers. It sure is easier to dress for the cold also

 

[TXCOMT]

Do what your brain tells you, it's your equipment and your burden either way. Sounds like you have heavy value in playing the manu's playbook, that is a sound strategy. We have guys running heavier then 30 weight with no mds issues. If you believe in poll stats around 40-50% of the forum uses 30 weight. Which means your strategy is in the popular side of it.

However, the entire reason this thread became a "thing" is because of hemi tick and cam/lifter problems and issues. Ask yourself the question, did fca recommend 5w20 for hemi's because that is what they wanted, or what the epa wanted? If you believe it is what FCA wanted, then why the hell did they ask for 40 weight in the same engine non mds in the HD units? Because that is how you protect metal is the answer, and the epa isn't up their ass on HD units. Not only that, but the api forces oil formulations to be sparce to get their ratings in 20 and 30 weight oil, why would that be?? They have no such requirement on 40 weight oils. FCA sold you a truck, now it's yours, just like ours are ours.

There is a lot of misinformation in this thread, a lot of us have learned as we go, a lot of info has changed. You don't need to read the thread, but there a group of guys who have had hemi tick go away and have recorded their experience, and that is the value here. h395 has done the most work on it, as in testing the most oils over time with uoa's, U&A as well killed his tick, and RLK has some great info backed up in uoa's and has ideas on how best to protect his cam, dude spent his life jetting around the world working on helicopters and has done great work here. Whether or not the work we have done will actually gain us Cam/Lifter life will never be known as a fact, but what we do is make a strategy based on science and roll with it. Cam/lifters are a weakness in these hemi's even if you don't have hemi tick. Just maybe providing those items with a hearty oil both in film strength and detergency will allow them to live longer. FCA made a hemi specific oil 0w40 PUP in tandem with Pennzoil that is similar in strategy to what we've been doing here before that oil was even made. So I would say we were on the right track. These fellas contribute not only on oil, but these guys have many many dyi threads. I'm about to use h395's dyi thread to do my first coolant flush, so I got to get at it or this day will pass. Peace Burla

Sorry about not just posting three guys, there are many many more valuable contributors, I mean no disrespect. It is just those three have been here almost since the beginning and as all of us know have really went through trials of finding lubrication strategies. Welcome to ramily if don't mind my say so as you still appear to be new here. Best source for Rams anywhere this side of tdr for Cummins. If I had another Cummins I would be in both forums, but for hemi guys this spot is it imo.

Good summation, B!

BTW, Gero, I just switched from QSAD 5W-20 to QSUD 5w-30 and the Hemi in my '16 Reb is running fine! I think you'll be happy with the synth stuff.

TXCOMT

 

[Gero]

Very well summarized Burla. Your post alone has convinced me enough to run 5w30! Now I'm in a funny predicament because of warranty issues. I plan to drive this truck to the ground but I dont want to void my warranty. I have 4 years and 75,000km left on the powertrain which is quite significant. I'm wondering how i can trick the dealer in using 5w20 but in fact running 5w30. Perhaps I can purchase 2jugs of 5w20 and scan the receipt and then exchange it for 5w30.

 

[HammerHead]

Very well summarized Burla. Your post alone has convinced me enough to run 5w30! Now I'm in a funny predicament because of warranty issues. I plan to drive this truck to the ground but I dont want to void my warranty. I have 4 years and 75,000km left on the powertrain which is quite significant. I'm wondering how i can trick the dealer in using 5w20 but in fact running 5w30. Perhaps I can purchase 2jugs of 5w20 and scan the receipt and then exchange it for 5w30.

If you have a wife or a girlfriend by the 20w oil and put it in her car LOL And then by 30w oil and put it in your truck. Keep the recipes for the 20w and your good.

 

[Ramnewbie]

JMO. If you're really worried about the warranty issue with a 30wt I'd do like you said, scan the 20wt receipt. If they ask you about the scan just say that register receipts fade away over time and you wanted to make sure you had receipts. Then I'd either change oil myself and notate it on the Mopar owners app maintenance section or keep good hand written records to match you're receipts. Or take you're oil and filter to an independent shop and have them change it with receipt stating owner provided oil and filter. JMO again but as long as you're engine is clean, not all sludged up, and shows indications of regular maintenance it would be hard for a dealer to deny warranty, especially for a known issue. Like I said, JMO.

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[Ramnewbie]

Been doing some more reading over on BITOG. I may be going down a rabbit hole here but it pretty much goes to when you buy a store brand oil you really don't know what you're getting. The carquest oil here in NC is blended by amolie oil, according to them. But that's just southeast region, being blended at old Texaco refinery in SC. Midwest might be citgo or Mobil, west coast someone else. Bids just go out, by region, for cheapest price so blender could change at any time.

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[chrisbh17]

With a decent line of Chrysler approved oils (PYB, Pennzoil Platinum, Ultra Platinum) being so cheap and relatively available (even cheaper after rebate), I dont think there is any advantage to trying to save a few bucks with a store brand, value brand oil.

The only question in my mind is do you buy one of them and supplement with something like Biotech, CeraTec, etc or do you just go whole hog and buy Redline.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Personally I don't like pour in additives. I'd go redline. It took me along time to get here but redline is my ride or die for my Hemi


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[Burla]

And to think you used to cus me for having a redline tattoo on my ass. Now the man is rocking a redline avi, lol. From Amsoil dealer to redline user, you turn coat, lol. Anyhow, props for you keeping an open mind.