Synthetic Oil

[knightjp]

Here is my take and I am sure many will disagree. I see that many have their favorite oil brand and loyalty is all important to them. I have watched many tests on different brands. IMO it's not the brand that's so important but how often you change to oil. If you believe for one second changing your oil at 10,000 mile that is insane. I think somewhere between 4,000 to 7,000 miles is a good place to change your oil. I have dome this most all my life, but with the 5.7 and cylinder deactivation and the lifter issues this is best. I have now 132,000 miles and high idle hours and I've had not one issue.

I don't completely disagree. You have a point. But what oil do you use or rather what weight - 5w20 or 5w30..?
I religiously changed my oil at 10,000kms (approx 6000 miles) and still got the Hemi tick. The oil was Mopar 5w20. Having now experienced it twice in two different trucks, I can safely say that the reason is because of the push for using thinner oils on our engines solely for EPA ratings and not for longevity.

My Hemi Tick is GONE - 2022 Ram 1500 Purrs Like a Kitten Now!

No more curious looks from bystanders when I first start my truck now. Cool! #ram1500 #hemitick #trucks

youtu.be

Using 5w30 at shorter intervals should be good advice for any one who is getting a V8 Ram with the 5.7. However the additive package also plays a role. This is the reason that some people on here are brand loyal, particularly in the case of Redline is that it has an additive package that works very well for the engine. The only issue is the price.
There are other oils that have similar additive packages that make them suitable for the HEMI. My mission on here is to find an alternative to Redline that will also be budget friendly.
For the moment, if I was running Redline 5w30, I'd stick it out for the 10,000kms. If I'm using any other brand, I would use it for 5000kms (approx 3000 miles).

 

[Lufty]

@Burla Both our hemis are quiet. I’ve been hyper sensitive since switching the Ram to this SP formula. Also being summer and windows down it just seems extra quiet (which is opposite of what I expected). Obviously that could just be in my melon too.

I am very curious about what this new SP formula looks like on paper. I’ll keep ya posted when I get my VOA results.

 

[Stefan N]

Be aware of Besos, he is slinging **** and fake crap. Sorry for the C o m m i e site link! Could not find the video on YT

TikTok - Make Your Day

 

[Wild one]

Be aware of Besos, he is slinging **** and fake crap. Sorry for the C o m m i e site link! Could not find the video on YT

TikTok - Make Your Day

Most people are starting to figure out Amazon and Ebay spark plugs are Chinese knock-offs,so now they've gotta switch to other stuff .

 

[EchoQuill]

Most people are starting to figure out Amazon and Ebay spark plugs are Chinese knock-offs

Even the NGK stuff?

 

[Wild one]

Even the NGK stuff?

Google fake NGK plugs on Amazon and Ebay,then ask that question again Even NGK has a video up on how to tell if you actually have legit NGK plugs,lol.

 

[knightjp]

Google fake NGK plugs on Amazon and Ebay,then ask that question again Even NGK has a video up on how to tell if you actually have legit NGK plugs,lol.

I saw a video of a guy comparing counterfeit Castrol engine oil to the real thing. This has me worried because in my part of the world, its easy for people to sell counterfeit stuff and get away with it.

 

[EchoQuill]

Google fake NGK plugs on Amazon and Ebay,then ask that question again Even NGK has a video up on how to tell if you actually have legit NGK plugs,lol.

Thank you.

I saw a video of a guy comparing counterfeit Castrol engine oil to the real thing. This has me worried because in my part of the world, its easy for people to sell counterfeit stuff and get away with it.

Castrol? Wow!

 

[hemihustlin]

Any thoughts on mixing say 3 quarts of 5W-30 Redline and 4 quarts of 5W-30 Pup for the 6.4's. Up here you can get 5W-30 PUP cheap and easy,but getting 0W-40 PUP is expensive as hell,and i've been sort of wondering about mixing those 2 for the wifes 6.4 Challenger,could even throw a bottle of Lube Gard in with it if need be,as i have a couple cases of it on hand. It's just a thought for now,as the car just had it's last dealer oil change,but the from here on out,the oil changes are on me .

go for pennzoil euro 5w40! Ive been running it for years and have never had any ticks with the new one or the old one! sometimes its easier to find than the ultra around here, crappy tire and walmart always have the euro in stock and on sale every few weeks

HTHS of 3.8 according to bitog with a boatload of real specs like
A40
MB229.5
BMW LL- 01
and even Chrysler MS-10725, MS-10850, MS-12991

if ever it became unavailable or extremely out of price I would consider M1 0w40 fs as a replacement but hopefully that day wont come haha

 

[corneileous]

I don't completely disagree. You have a point. But what oil do you use or rather what weight - 5w20 or 5w30..?
I religiously changed my oil at 10,000kms (approx 6000 miles) and still got the Hemi tick. The oil was Mopar 5w20. Having now experienced it twice in two different trucks, I can safely say that the reason is because of the push for using thinner oils on our engines solely for EPA ratings and not for longevity.

My Hemi Tick is GONE - 2022 Ram 1500 Purrs Like a Kitten Now!

No more curious looks from bystanders when I first start my truck now. Cool! #ram1500 #hemitick #trucks

youtu.be

Using 5w30 at shorter intervals should be good advice for any one who is getting a V8 Ram with the 5.7. However the additive package also plays a role. This is the reason that some people on here are brand loyal, particularly in the case of Redline is that it has an additive package that works very well for the engine. The only issue is the price.
There are other oils that have similar additive packages that make them suitable for the HEMI. My mission on here is to find an alternative to Redline that will also be budget friendly.
For the moment, if I was running Redline 5w30, I'd stick it out for the 10,000kms. If I'm using any other brand, I would use it for 5000kms (approx 3000 miles).

I don't completely disagree. You have a point. But what oil do you use or rather what weight - 5w20 or 5w30..?
I religiously changed my oil at 10,000kms (approx 6000 miles) and still got the Hemi tick. The oil was Mopar 5w20. Having now experienced it twice in two different trucks, I can safely say that the reason is because of the push for using thinner oils on our engines solely for EPA ratings and not for longevity.

My Hemi Tick is GONE - 2022 Ram 1500 Purrs Like a Kitten Now!

No more curious looks from bystanders when I first start my truck now. Cool! #ram1500 #hemitick #trucks

youtu.be

Using 5w30 at shorter intervals should be good advice for any one who is getting a V8 Ram with the 5.7. However the additive package also plays a role. This is the reason that some people on here are brand loyal, particularly in the case of Redline is that it has an additive package that works very well for the engine. The only issue is the price.
There are other oils that have similar additive packages that make them suitable for the HEMI. My mission on here is to find an alternative to Redline that will also be budget friendly.
For the moment, if I was running Redline 5w30, I'd stick it out for the 10,000kms. If I'm using any other brand, I would use it for 5000kms (approx 3000 miles).

I’m not sure if this would better fit your budget but the Schaeffers 9000 supreme is cheaper than the redline performance and I paid about $150 for a case of 12.

I’m really happy with it and that’s what I plan to stick with.

But I’m curious when you said you’ve had the hemi tick twice- you said the one time you were using that Mopar oil but which oil were you using, that semi-synthetic junk that they put it at the factory? What about the second time? And I agree that part of our problem is due to them pushing 5W20 engine oil down us half-ton owner’s throats because they only care about fuel mileage and but I would hope that if you’re using 5W20 that a really good quality full-synthetic 5W20 would be much better than that semi synthetic junk they put in at the factory.

 

[knightjp]

I’m not sure if this would better fit your budget but the Schaeffers 9000 supreme is cheaper than the redline performance and I paid about $150 for a case of 12.

I’m really happy with it and that’s what I plan to stick with.

But I’m curious when you said you’ve had the hemi tick twice- you said the one time you were using that Mopar oil but which oil were you using, that semi-synthetic junk that they put it at the factory? What about the second time? And I agree that part of our problem is due to them pushing 5W20 engine oil down us half-ton owner’s throats because they only care about fuel mileage and but I would hope that if you’re using 5W20 that a really good quality full-synthetic 5W20 would be much better than that semi synthetic junk they put in at the factory.

It was Mopar full synthetic 5w20 that we used to get from the main dealership here in Dubai. The interesting thing is that the dealership here uses Mopar full synthetic 5w30 on any vehicle that is brought to them for the oil changes, but they will sell 5w20 to those who would take on the oil changes themselves.
Also they will use 5w20 if stocks of 5w30 were low.
They know that 5w20 isn't good for the engine especially when operating at the high temperatures we got over here. Toyotas are using 10w40 and 5w40 as standard on their engines here.
I said that I got the tick twice because I had experienced it on two different trucks. My first one, I brought brand new and did the changes at 10,000 kms religiously at the main dealership. I had no control over what oil they used and to be honest, I was naive enough to believe they were using the best for the engine. After the warranty expired, I did the changes with my mechanic and he used to go the main dealer and buy the Mopar oil from them. They always sold him 5w20 and because he followed the manual, we thought it was the right thing. In most cases it would be.
After 7 years of ownership, the engine suddenly started ticking badly. That was when I posted something on this forum and soon learned about the Hemi tick / Redline/ etc.
A few months later, the truck was totaled in an accident and then I got a replacement. It was used this time, but was an identical truck. This one had a faint tick and I used Redline. But then I couldn't find it. Stocks ran out and I used Amsoil SS 5w30 and I think that was a mistake. The engine didn't sound as smooth as with Redline and also I faced the manifold tick. Once it got worse, I changed the lifters and now I'm working with a good oil/short OCI strategy - which I think works well.
Right now I'm using Mobil 1FS 0w40.

 

[U&A]

Figure Id share how I remove the paint from the spin on filter I use in my 66RFE. For those that don’t remember or know this is actually not the OEM filter. It is a RP-10-2867.

Again, sorry about the way I have to post pictures with the links. Is what it is with this website. I cant post pics directly from my phone.

first two pictures show an actual OEM spin on filter for the transmission. This one was cut open when new (just did it to look at the gizzards inside). I screw in the OEM plastic thread coupler and cover all the holes with tape on both sides and then screw it into the filter I’m going to remove the paint from to keep all dust out of it.

Image KM-97

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Image KM-98

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Image KM-99

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

I do not like using sandpaper on stuff like this for the grunt of the work because sandpaper finds sharps pretty fast and the metal is very thin already. I don’t need to make it any thinner. Just did this to show as an example.. these high spots became exposed within a couple seconds of using 80 grit by hand. If i kept going at it I guarantee they’re going to be super thin by the time I’m done.

Image KM-101

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

I secure it in my vice, with a pair of vise grips, making sure to tighten the vice on the jaw of the vice grip and not the handle so you can really snug it up….or is it sung it down….

Image KM-100

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Instead of sandpaper, I like to use a wire wheel like this on an angle grinder. Wire wheels actually push away from high spots especially really sharp high spots. Hard to explain, but think of running a brush down the edge of metal all the bristles are going to go away from the edge (wheres sandpaper will put all the pressure on the sharps). Much safer. I also do not run the grinder at full speed when removing the paint. I kind of hit the trigger on and off just to keep it going at a moderate pace and use slightly more pressure with less speed. I’m afraid of overheating spots on the metal can (turning it yellow/blue/purple) because that hardens it way to much. I like this type of wire wheel more because it doesn’t throw as many bristles as the flat ones and it has a smaller diameter so you can get into the flat spots on the filter better. FYI if you try it with a regular drill it will work but it will be WAY slower.

Image KM-102

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Here is the filter after the wire wheel.

Image KM-103

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Next I take 80 grit paper for a DA sander, fold it in half and use it to get the paint out of the hemmed edge around the bottom of the filter. Dosnt take much effort. Never really get it all out but most of it.

Image KM-104

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Here it is after i hit the entire filter by hand with 220 grit paper to clean it up a bit from the wire wheel.

Image KM-107

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Then I finish it with 3M red scotch bright (by hand), a real good ******** around the O-ring and everything with the air compressor and then a spray and wipe with silicon spray.

Image KM-108

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

Took about 15min
Done.

Hope this helps some of ya.

Edit:

Apparently you cant say

B
L
O
W
J
O
B

 

[HEMIMANN]

It must be transmission oil change weekend. I FINALLY got around to changing transmission oil & filters with Red Line C+ATF (MOPAR ATF +4 spec).

Changed 1st time 2-1/2 years ago @ 35,000+ miles, oil was very dark and smelly, full of clutch shavings, metal fines, and probably some oxidation. I changed with MOPAR ATF +4 that time, which is a mediocre API Group III synthetic oil.

Today I had 16,451 miles since last change. Oil was still in pretty good shape, maybe a bit darker, but didn't stink like last time and had miniscule shavings and fines. I wanted to get top quality Red Line in there soon, trying to preserve these marginal transmissions. I have the 66RFE.

System capacity is listed @ 12 quarts. Oil change with filters changes 6.5 quarts. I have the Dorman Oil Pan with drain plug. That is nice. The top of the line black gasket maker RTV we used last time still had some leaks, so I'm trying the LubeLocker gasket. I'm also trying an aftermarket canister oil filter - I went with Wix 57055XP synthetic for durability and coarser filtration to assure oil flow. I feel better without the cheap paper element MOPAR uses. I chemical-soaked the paint first, then scraped and wire-brushed. Tough paint. Maybe a sander would have been easier.

Associated pics for show & tell:

 

[Burla]

how hard was it to use that jasco? did it really wipe that paint off?

 

[HEMIMANN]

how hard was it to use that jasco? did it really wipe that paint off?

The chem dip took off the outer layer well, but the paint was so thick it took multiple dips plus wire wheel to get the mechanically-bonded layer. Maybe would have been better to just use an angle grinder with sander disc.

 

[Hemi395]

It must be transmission oil change weekend. I FINALLY got around to changing transmission oil & filters with Red Line C+ATF (MOPAR ATF +4 spec).

Changed 1st time 2-1/2 years ago @ 35,000+ miles, oil was very dark and smelly, full of clutch shavings, metal fines, and probably some oxidation. I changed with MOPAR ATF +4 that time, which is a mediocre API Group III synthetic oil.

Today I had 16,451 miles since last change. Oil was still in pretty good shape, maybe a bit darker, but didn't stink like last time and had miniscule shavings and fines. I wanted to get top quality Red Line in there soon, trying to preserve these marginal transmissions. I have the 66RFE.

System capacity is listed @ 12 quarts. Oil change with filters changes 6.5 quarts. I have the Dorman Oil Pan with drain plug. That is nice. The top of the line black gasket maker RTV we used last time still had some leaks, so I'm trying the LubeLocker gasket. I'm also trying an aftermarket canister oil filter - I went with Wix 57055XP synthetic for durability and coarser filtration to assure oil flow. I feel better without the cheap paper element MOPAR uses. I chemical-soaked the paint first, then scraped and wire-brushed. Tough paint. Maybe a sander would have been easier.

Associated pics for show & tell:

View attachment 523891View attachment 523888View attachment 523892View attachment 523889View attachment 523890View attachment 523893View attachment 523894

Awesome! Those Lubelocker gaskets are pricey but I've never had one leak yet. Another thing I noticed is when under load while towing C+/Amsoil MVATF keeps trans temps down about 5⁰ vs ATF+4, curious to see what you experience with C+. Also curious what you're experience is with the WixXP filter.

I changed my fluid/filters first at 22k and I was really amazed at how dark the fluid was at such low miles. After the initial fluid change it has been cherry red and clear since then. I think its the initial break in wear from the gears and clutches getting suspended in the factory fill.

Imagine following the maintenance schedule and leaving that fluid with suspended wear material in it for 120k. No wonder the RFEs are considered "junk".

 

[U&A]

It must be transmission oil change weekend. I FINALLY got around to changing transmission oil & filters with Red Line C+ATF (MOPAR ATF +4 spec).

Changed 1st time 2-1/2 years ago @ 35,000+ miles, oil was very dark and smelly, full of clutch shavings, metal fines, and probably some oxidation. I changed with MOPAR ATF +4 that time, which is a mediocre API Group III synthetic oil.

Today I had 16,451 miles since last change. Oil was still in pretty good shape, maybe a bit darker, but didn't stink like last time and had miniscule shavings and fines. I wanted to get top quality Red Line in there soon, trying to preserve these marginal transmissions. I have the 66RFE.

System capacity is listed @ 12 quarts. Oil change with filters changes 6.5 quarts. I have the Dorman Oil Pan with drain plug. That is nice. The top of the line black gasket maker RTV we used last time still had some leaks, so I'm trying the LubeLocker gasket. I'm also trying an aftermarket canister oil filter - I went with Wix 57055XP synthetic for durability and coarser filtration to assure oil flow. I feel better without the cheap paper element MOPAR uses. I chemical-soaked the paint first, then scraped and wire-brushed. Tough paint. Maybe a sander would have been easier.

Associated pics for show & tell:

View attachment 523891View attachment 523888View attachment 523892View attachment 523889View attachment 523890View attachment 523893View attachment 523894

You will LOVE the lube locker!

Only gaskets i will ever buy. It will leave a few spots of red sealer on the trans and pan when you go to take it off but a scotch or paint scraper takes it off fast

Yah the paint they use is super durable. I bet we can actually leave it on but im not taking the chance.

Sounds right with the 6.5. Iv got a +2Q pan and im generally 8.5-9q. If I let it sit all night to drain i can make 10+ sometimes.

Another nice part about the lubelockers over RTV is it doesn’t seem to need near as much of a Re-torque after the pain goes through a few heat cycles like it does with RTV

If you do a sanding disk on that be REALLY CAREFUL. It will eat up the high spots super fast and make them thin. Personally recommend a wire wheel only on the angle grinder.

 

[U&A]

This can be used for the 66RFE

Image KM-111

ohvrlee.sharing.bublup.com

 

[Hemi395]

Wonder if we can test the filter by submerging it in atf4 and leaving it for a fre months? Only thing missing would be the heat....

 

[HEMIMANN]

You will LOVE the lube locker!

Only gaskets i will ever buy. It will leave a few spots of red sealer on the trans and pan when you go to take it off but a scotch or paint scraper takes it off fast

Yah the paint they use is super durable. I bet we can actually leave it on but im not taking the chance.

Sounds right with the 6.5. Iv got a +2Q pan and im generally 8.5-9q. If I let it sit all night to drain i can make 10+ sometimes.

Another nice part about the lubelockers over RTV is it doesn’t seem to need near as much of a Re-torque after the pain goes through a few heat cycles like it does with RTV

If you do a sanding disk on that be REALLY CAREFUL. It will eat up the high spots super fast and make them thin. Personally recommend a wire wheel only on the angle grinder.

Yeah, I'd only use finer grit, 150 and up. Wix has thick cans. Fram, not so much!