Synthetic Oil

[rocket]

Yeah, It could use another length in tallness.

 

[gypsy]

Are there any analysis results on the new ultra and platinum pure to compare to the old ones or are they the same numbers?

 

[LB3711]

im pretty happy with Redline. The Hemi has gotten quieter. I can hear the injectors ticking now that i really couldn't hear before. The hemi noises are not gone but lot less. I don't see needing to mix different oils. Just get a higher quality oil should be plenty unless you have a race engine.

I'm think next I want to drop Redline into the tranny. They make tranny fluid. Maybe fix/help the crappy 5 speed. Well after I replace the cooler lines and AC condenser.

 

[Hemi395]

I read about that Mazda oil a while back and it caught my eye with the high moly count. It looks like it's the required oil for their Skyactive engines. Looking at the additive package, it looks like the Hemi would love that oil. Definitely another option.

 

[Burla]

The industry realizes that certain engines like Turbo's and now Rotary's need special formulations to have a long engine life. I think the industry should look at the hemi as well for an engine needing special formulated oil. You know I like to see high Moly oils, no bashing here.

 

[mcamzr]

So I would think a block heater would be a good thing on a cold night?

 

[mcamzr]

This totaly changes my thought on warming up my truck.

On the heater the 5.7 has a hole for the heater element just behind the starter. I think it warms the oil and Copland to over 100. Down side I here it cost around $10 a night to keep it plugged in.

 

[Burla]

So I don't know if he is going to post it, but we got another oil analysis back from Roadking. If he can't post I can summarize, the Oil was Amsoil SS and the interval was 7k miles. Still a young engine I believe, wear usually higher during this time. Wear continues be something showing up in just about every 5w20 UOA, hopefully we start seeing some 5w30 UOA's to judge if that helps or not.

Iron 33 PPM
Copper 50 PPM

Moly 113 ppm
Calcium 3165
Zinc 746
Phos 684

Boron 94

TBN 5.3 at 7k mile mark.



If you ask me these are very good numbers for that oil considering "Hemi" averages. It just shows that Amsoil SS is a long run oil for those seeking long oil change intervals. As for Boron, to my knowledge this neither harmful or beneficial, but shows up in Amsoil UOA's. Maybe they have info that I don't (very likely).

For all of you guys running Amsoil SS, this is more validation for your oil choice, just say'n.

 

[305stunnin]

So I don't know if he is going to post it, but we got another oil analysis back from Roadking. If he can't post I can summarize, the Oil was Amsoil SS and the interval was 7k miles. Still a young engine I believe, wear usually higher during this time. Wear continues be something showing up in just about every 5w20 UOA, hopefully we start seeing some 5w30 UOA's to judge if that helps or not.

Iron 33 PPM
Copper 50 PPM

Moly 113 ppm
Calcium 3165
Zinc 746
Phos 684

Boron 94

TBN 5.3 at 7k mile mark.



If you ask me these are very good numbers for that oil considering "Hemi" averages. It just shows that Amsoil SS is a long run oil for those seeking long oil change intervals. As for Boron, to my knowledge this neither harmful or beneficial, but shows up in Amsoil UOA's. Maybe they have info that I don't (very likely).

For all of you guys running Amsoil SS, this is more validation for your oil choice, just say'n.

Just had my oil drained and filled back up with 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra. I have the MDS shut off with the Diablosport so it shouldent be a problem. I will perform a test on this oil around 5k and let you know Burla. I too am not a fan of 5w20 in the Hemi and care more about the long term of my engine rather than fuel economy, being that i must hang on to this truck at least 10 years 5w30 is the way to go imo. Truck has 5k miles on the odo so once it reaches 10k i will run a lab test

 

[Burla]

Yeah, and most of the industry believes in real world testing thinner oil does not gain MPG. Things we thought in the 80's that were totally absurd have now become common place. Stated when they took lead out of gas, what was that the 70's? The Sulfur out of diesel, lowering Zinc level in oil, forcing ethanol on us, forcing MDS and VVT, making engines that are forced to take the thinnest oil available, etc.

Thanks for considering a uoa, should be very helpful; to the forum and you.

 

[Burla]

Synthetic Purolator part number Part # psl24651 for 2010 hemi on sale KMart 8 bucks. Picked a couple up, great especially for a little shorter run then a year.

 

[Big Blue Hemi]

Mcamzr: Maybe! I'm not very knowledgeable on this matter yet! I assume a block heater would help... An Oil Pan heater might be more beneficial but those things scare me... some can get the oil to hot while sitting over night!

You are thinking in the right direction! Getting that oil to 180*F as fast as we can is the goal... in my opinion!

Granted we just might be slitting hairs hear! There are millions of autos on the road to day with over 200K miles on them and going strong and their owners don't even care or bother with any of this stuff we are discussing within this thread...

But we are the select few who worry about it and care!

I do know for a fact! There was an article I read where a certified Chrysler Mechanic for many years commented on the Hemi Tick--> Stating that to help combat this issue---->Do not idle your Hemi for periods of time.. Due to Oil Pressure issues! Esp when the truck is at operating temp due to low oil pressure which the proper amount of oil is not getting distributed to the top of the motor.... He did state this is just a flaw in design whether it be in the heads or oil pump I can't remember...

Shannow just kinda showed data it just not a wise idea to Idle your engine for long periods of time-> especially at cold start up!

What I got out of this is-->On first start ups--Only let your 5.7L Idle for the time it takes to fasten your seat belt and get things in order... I know when it is covered in snow or ice it can't be helped...

Once up to operating temp->Try too Idle for as short as time as possible/I know stop lights are unavoidable!

Thus we need to use an oil with a very strong Anti-Wear Additive Package-->Need these additives to stay on the upper moving parts until normal oil flow can be re-established!

Yes I know I have a problem! This is stuff the Normal Person just would not worry about! I am in the process of getting help!

I would have never given any thought to idling issues. Damn! Kinda makes me more interested in if Cerma additives work.

 

[BlownGP]

I know what OIL I want now

[yt]uVuIMfCCJhE[/yt]

 

[SyN]

Blown: I seen that video about 3 days ago and put it on my Facebook Page!!! Hundreds of comments!!!

That has got to be the best Video + Sound clip of the Hellcat that I have seen and heard to date!! It is an awesome video!!

Kind of goes with the old saying--> Driver Her like ya Stole Her!!

They need to make that video into an Intro to How To Do a Proper Break In for your New Muscle Car!

 

[Burla]

That was badass! lol

 

[smiley]

I warm my Hemi up always. It still runs perfect and I don't think advice given to not warm up applies to those in the north unless you store in a heated garage. Warming it up prevents damage rather than cause it. I'll let you know if mine blows up but I think that advice to not warm up is shaky at best.

 

[SyN]

Smiley: Where in Hells Creation did that so called advice say anything about Blowing an engine?

Shannow talked about engine wear!

All that was shown was more engine wear is created at warm up instead of start up! Which an engine oil with the proper anti-wear additives and friction modifiers would help fight this!

Blowing up? Holy Chit!

I should have known better then post actual data!

 

[smiley]

This post you put up contradicts everything I have ever heard or read on wear. Yes I said blown up because eventually wear will cause the engine to fail that is why we have a thread that has been going for pages and pages we want to prevent the death as long as possible. I realize I might be going extreme I just felt the post is a little suspect as I don't believe it is correct personally so would like to be convinced. I also don't feel it is good advice for cold environments especially sub zero.

 

[Burla]

I would think you can still warm up your Hemi, just maybe add a little pedal to it. Come up from idle a few RPM. I didn't read the entire thing, maybe I should now that I have time tonight. Someone needs to design a pre-oiler that warms up, and consumers need to be loyal to the technology. I think the masses wouldn't want to wait to start their cold cars, where as me and Smiley wouldn't mind a little wait if it is going to help our trucks.

 

[smiley]

I would think you can still warm up your Hemi, just maybe add a little pedal to it. Come up from idle a few RPM. I didn't read the entire thing, maybe I should now that I have time tonight. Someone needs to design a pre-oiler that warms up, and consumers need to be loyal to the technology. I think the masses wouldn't want to wait to start their cold cars, where as me and Smiley wouldn't mind a little wait if it is going to help our trucks.

I agree my Dad always told me if you can't feel heat your vehicle is not ready. It has worked really well for us and seems to be even more important with so many types of metal involved. We don't have anything to compare to as a family though because we all run our vehicles before we go. Remote start makes that easy. With that being said maybe we should start talking about hours on our engines too. I idle 30-40 min every day I work 15-20 before and 15-20 after only in the winter and cold but in the summer I still always wait a minute or so too.