Synthetic Oil

[grizzstang]

Changed my oil on Sunday. Switched to PUP 5W30 at 6608 miles.

I was at my favorite store on Saturday and they had it on sale for 40% off. Drove it to work this morning and so far so good.

 

[R.L.K.]

I think the lighter it is, the better. A darker color means more oil is blowing by the piston rings and ending up in the OCC. A lighter color means less oil/more sludge-inducing moisture content that you don't want in your intake is ending up in the OCC, which is the goal. In turn, the more it looks like regular oil, the more I would be concerned about that oil's tendency to blow-by.

I believe both regular looking oil and coffee color should be considered normal , the coffee color just means more normal condensation ( likely colder weather ) or unburnt fuel getting past the piston rings in the other direction as you described above .
The normal colored oil in an OCC is Normal as well imo , especially in warmer weather when one is getting the oil to 212°+ on a regular basis aiding in condensation burn off .
Oil getting past the piston rings does not make it to the OCC , this oil causes carbon build up on the top of the Piston surface and on the valves as well , also causing smoke out the exhaust pipe by way of the exhaust valve .
The only oil getting to the OCC should be vented oil mist from the crankase .

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[Ramnewbie]

Damn, didn't mean to start a debate on color, just made a statement that it was different. Also noticed less gunk in bottom of tank, I view that as better.

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[R.L.K.]

Damn, didn't mean to start a debate on color, just made a statement that it was different. Also noticed less gunk in bottom of tank, I view that as better.

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I get both colors based on the time of year , no debate as I look forward to Rampants post , always very informative.

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[Hemi395]

Up here in NE mine turns coffee color in the winter and looks like regular oil in summer

 

[Rampant]

I get both colors based on the time of year , no debate as I look forward to Rampants post , typically very informative.

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Nothing wrong with a friendly & healthy debate! That's how we learn from one another. The majority of blow-by actually ends up in the crankcase; it takes the path of least resistance. Since there is an alternating vacuum/atmospheric pressure environment in the crankcase and a pressure environment in the combustion chamber, most of the content gets by the scraper (bottom) rings and ends up in the crankcase. That is, unless the compression ring is worn. In that case, you'd have different issues; lower compression, loss of power, oil burning, etc., etc.

I absolutely agree that OCC content will be seasonal. Cold start-ups, longer idle times, and summertime high-humidity will all contribute to more condensation to form, yielding more of a milky-looking content. I think that also depends on the amount of short trips; the longer you drive, the more will be burned off vs turning into sludge. If it all went out the tailpipe, there would be no need for an OCC. Water is thinner, lighter, and boils sooner than oil, so it turns into a mist easier (while it is hot) and is sucked out via the crankcase ventilation before oil is.

Another thing to ponder... the color/content of the OCC will also depend on the temp when you check it. If it is cold outside and the engine is cold, it will likely be lighter. When the engine has been running, that warm air from the crankcase and radiant heat from being in the engine compartment heats up the contents of the OCC and will definitely affect the color and viscosity. Think about that bacon grease sitting in the pan on the stove after it was heated and how it coagulates and solidifies as it cools down... the same thing happens to the contents of the OCC. I'm hungry now.

This video does a good job of explaining what blow-by actually is and where it ends up.

 

[misuracaf10]

Quick side note. I have redline Gear oil factory recommended oil weight in my Rear and Front Diffs of my truck. How many miles are these gear oils good for in the differentials?


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[Drunken Hamster]

Quick side note. I have redline Gear oil factory recommended oil weight in my Rear and Front Diffs of my truck. How many miles are these gear oils good for in the differentials?


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Gear oils are long oci anyway, and, AFAIK, not in a vast quantity like 7 quarts each like motor oil.

Id stick to the factory recommendation, which I think is somewhere in the range of 50k-100k miles.

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[SyN]

Quick side note. I have redline Gear oil factory recommended oil weight in my Rear and Front Diffs of my truck. How many miles are these gear oils good for in the differentials?


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My only question is: Do you tow?
If so? Are your loads med/heavy loads & for how many miles at a time.

Only real enemy of gear oil is heat/shearing/water contamination.

(Do you tow in 4WD? If not? Stick with the factory recommendations for the front).
(If you never tow at all): Just a daily driver for the rearend I would do my service every 50-75K miles.
If you have a Limited Slip: I would definitely do a service before or around the 40-50K mark.
(Clean/Fresh oil is a Anti-Slips best friend).

If you tow often & for quite long periods of time in both 4WD & 2WD my rule of thumb is do your service between 25-35Kmiles.

If you tow a boat & your rearend gets submerged in water often? I would do my service every 25K miles.

Your using one of the highest quality gear oils created: Your in very good hands!

Once again the SyN Disclaimer: Only My Simple Logical Opinion!

It sounds very complicated but it’s really not! Just don’t neglect your Differentials due too being Lazy!

ZF has made the service for both the front and rear differentials of the 1500 very easy no excuse not to do it now.
My ram is a different story: I’m having to install a new rearend cover to make the service much easier and faster. (30min Tops)

I honestly think (most owners) have no clue exactly how hot the gear oil as well as the rearend gets (while towing a medium or heavy load during the summer on asphalt for Long periods of time).

 

[Nutshell]

I did a trigger kit on my wifes shield 9mm and it is a completely different pistol.

Amazing

APEX triggers are awesome!!

 

[U&A]

Lost power a few hours ago...... damb you cory!!!

 

[Hemi395]

Lost power a few hours ago...... damb you cory!!!

If it makes you feel better, we're about to get 1 foot+ of snow plus more 65mph gusts...

 

[U&A]

Ill take the snow. I love snow.... But iv got one HUGE tree that is to clost to the house for me to comfortably fall. Its going to be expensive to fall so i may pay for it to be topped.

You keep the wind.

 

[Burla]

I was the president of an asc whose previous president topped a bunch of trees a decade earlier. Maybe 30% died or were so rotten they had to be removed anyway. If you top it, I would make sure you inspect it often.

 

[smiley]

Guys help me out.

http://www.ramforum.com/threads/water-pump-failure.117085/

 

[U&A]

I was the president of an asc whose previous president topped a bunch of trees a decade earlier. Maybe 30% died or were so rotten they had to be removed anyway. If you top it, I would make sure you inspect it often.

I completely agree. If they top it i am comfortable doing the rest. Just to damb tall. Its actually on the neighbors side so he may be a nice guy and help pay for it.....neighbors...

 

[Hemi395]

I'm slowly trying to remove all trees that can possibly fall on my house. Sucks in the summer because there's no shade but I'd rather have than than a tree on my house...

 

[R.L.K.]

Guys help me out.

http://www.ramforum.com/threads/water-pump-failure.117085/

Let us know how it goes [emoji106]

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[SyN]

Corey: I did this years ago.
We had back to back to back ice storms. I was up on top of the house @ 2am with my chainsaw cutting the big limbs so it would not damage our house.

That happened 1 Time! That’s all it took for me to open up a 55 gallon drum of Whoop A$$ on those remaining trees.

I now have zero trees. Like you said it sucks due to there is no shade.
But I never have to worry about one of those ******** falling on my house and causing thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of damage. Also my very nice expensive 6 foot fence is still standing all in one piece.

I even convinced my worthless neighbor to come out of the house and trim his trees away from the fence so now they all fall on his house. I will admit every once a while I take the liberty of trimming his trees that hang over my fence myself.

I’m still standing here shaking my head @ him.

Trees are beautiful and awesome just plant them 25 to 50 yards away from the house.

One thing for sure there is no worries about when you hear that (Loud) cracking sound & then the big boom you never have to worry about it being your property being damaged.

 

[chrisbh17]

We had trees on the "city" side of a municipal sidewalk in front of our house. The funny thing about trees like that is I have to maintain them (keep them from hitting people walking on the sidewalk, cars on the road, etc) but I couldnt actually remove them since they technically werent mine.

After years of trimming stupid looking vee shapes in them, the electric company FINALLY took them down completely, because the power lines ran right down the center. They did that last summer, and here we are in our 3rd Noreaster in as many weeks...wind, snow, rain, all of it. If those trees were still there, we would have no power. Im happy the utility co did what I was planning on doing some dark night....