Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 237 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,780

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Burla

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Just about due for an oil change and am wondering if there is any downside to running 5 litres of Amsoil 5w20 signature series and 2 litres redline 5w3o with a royal purple filter. Want to run some redline to get the moly up and 30 wt to get the oil a little thicker and not throw any codes. Previous fill was all 5w20 amsoil ss and amsoil ea filter put 10000 kilometers on truck in 1 year (a little more than normal usually 8000 kms)

No problem at all, IMO you should just stick with 30 weights, so 5 Amsoil 5w30 and 2 redline 5w30 would moly you up and give you more film/hths strength. 20 weights are for hucklebrry's, and I am reformed huckleberry thanks to all of the forum members who were brave enough to 30 weight up before me.
 

Burla

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The new Castrol Magnetic oil , claims, the film clings to metal surfaces after the engine is shut off.

I have been looking for a while and cannot find any scientific statements behind how Castrol is magnetic. Now, since esters are polar you can say they are magnetic in a way, and Moly certainly binds film to metal. So either of these could be consider magnetic, but I really wonder what they are talking about if it is something past what other companies already use to keep the metal protected. Any Ideas anyone? And Moly is considered film that clings to metal surfaces after the engine is shut off. It is of course elements that provide protection, moly, zinc, calcium, and unless you use esters or manually keep the oil in the top end, only elements remain. But, I still wonder if a silica or something can be added to oil to keep film stuck. I think there have been attempts at this and I believe it is a metter of time before someone figures this out. I wonder of there are any Castrol Magnetic youtubes like they have on the cerma dealios.
 

Nutshell

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On the issue of noisy lifters vs motor oil,

In my opinion the noisy lifters are caused by the check valve in the upper half of the two piece MDS lifter leaking.
The ball and seat must seal otherwise the lifter will collapse and not eliminate the pushrod slack.

The thicker oil combined with the polar clinging properties of group 5 POE base stock probably
helps seal up the small cap between the ball and the seat, allowing the adjustable lifter to reduce pushrod slack.

Since the thicker oil helps reduce the lifter noise, then the lifter is not jamed or stuck from varnish build up.

The new Castrol Magnetic oil , claims, the film clings to metal surfaces after the engine is shut off.
Would this oil reduce lifter noise.?

The 2015 & 2016, 5.7 do not seem to have the lifter noise issue.

Did RAM tighten up on the lifter manufacturing tolerances?

2015 here and I used to have the noise but only after a short run. Say if I had to move my truck out of the driveway and it only ran for say 30 seconds. The next start up would clack for 2-3 seconds. After my switch to Amsoil, it got much less. When I switched to 0W30, I have not heard it at all after sever short starts.
 

gypsy

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Thanks for the input just wan to take it slow as truck is a 2012 and still under warranty.
 

SyN

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For Those who refuse or will not switch to a 5W-30 or 0W-30... Here are some new VOA posted of 0W-20 synthetic oils... I wish PQIA could have tested PUP PP 0W-20! But I'm sure it was like all their other Ultra products-->Almost impossible to find!

I have interest due to I will be using a 0W-20 in both the Wifes & Daughters Edge both with the 3.5L V6...

The Petroleum Quality Institute of America


Had to edit my post here and share a UOA that was shown to me when the discussion of mixing oils was being discussed this morning... Just some what shows if you have to in a bind or pinch or just for the heck of it to get you through your OCI.... It does not cause excess wear or total internal implosion...

This was a Pot Luck of Oil tossed into this engine with nothing but a Stellar UOA result... He could have easily gone 6K miles...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...05/2006_Sierra_5.3L_4300mi_5W30_0#Post3951705
 
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Nutshell

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Castrol and Mobil 1 look great!!!
 

raven3

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QSUD has high NOACK , 13.4%
Would not go for extended DI.
PP is only 8.6%.

Back in the day when group 2 was in vogue, PYB & QS were the most popular,
because Pennsylvania crude was paraffin based oil with much less sulfur than Gulf crude,
resulting in less sludge.
 

GoldDot

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M1 high milage has lower volatility than the standard mobil 1 oil. Also has higher zddp levels with 5w-20 having a crazy high flash point temperature.
 

Burla

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Group 2 still is in vogue, even at bobs.

You see other trucks don't have the same issues with wear as the hemi. This fact plays itself out in uoa after uoa.
 

raven3

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GM 5.3l engine is specified to use 5w30.
The pistons are cooled with oil jets.
Dodge & RAM do not have oil jet cooled pistons.
Same for Ford
And need thinner oil for cooling.

PYB & QS still my 1st choice for group 2.
 

w6pea

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Again I will ask, what synthetic oil comes in the 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine?
 

raven3

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Factory fill for the RAM , 6.4 Cummins diesel, is "Valvoline premium blue diesel engine oil" , conventional.......not synthetic
 
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Hemi395

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Got my Redline gear oil for the front and rear diffs yesterday. Can't wait to change the factory fill out this weekend

39461f37943b2f533fe4282fe25ea33f.jpg
 

R.L.K.

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I got the same stuff , waiting a bit though
 

Burla

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Again I will ask, what synthetic oil comes in the 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine?

Dunno, of course Delvac and Rotella are the two most popular diesel oils, kinda just like Penzoil and Mobil 1 for gas, literally. Rotella seams to be a hair more popular. And, they have a group 5 ester based Redline Diesel oil as well, straight up 5 star product.

And a while back they took a lot of the sulfur out of diesel, messed up the lubricity and great benefit of old diesel fuel, and Redline makes a diesel fuel additive to try and combat what the gov't did by taking out the sulfur. Actually Redline has almost as many products for diesel as Stanadyne. From catalyst, to anti gel, water remover, lubricity products, Ignition Improver, and many more I think. I'm pretty sure they may have a product that does many functions, super important imo. I would find a product that does everything if I could, much more important to run fuel additives with diesel then a gas engine. Didn't mean to get off track, just sharing some info in case you wanted it. Burla is an old truck driver, can't help myself.


Hemi395, Hey, post up on the process of changing the dif's, just let us all know how it went and stuff.
 
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R.L.K.

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Will do. I'm shooting for Saturday afternoon...
Do you plan on just a drain & refill , or are you removing the cover ?

Regardless , pictures ,pictures & pictures ! If you don't mind also include tool sizes ( hex or Allen ) wrench required torques and the type differential you have with the ratio . The works !
Thanks !
 

Hemi395

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Do you plan on just a drain & refill , or are you removing the cover ?

Regardless , pictures ,pictures & pictures ! If you don't mind also include tool sizes ( hex or Allen ) wrench required torques and the type differential you have with the ratio . The works !
Thanks !

Not going to remove the cover, just a drain and fill. My truck has 18k on it now so I figure I'll run Redline for at least another 20k which for me will be years. The front diff I'm only doing because I'll already have the tools, drain pan, etc out for the rear.

Ha OK I'll take some pictures and post the hex sizes. I bought a hex set that goes up to 9/16 so hopefully that's big enough...
 

Squidbilly

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Not going to remove the cover, just a drain and fill. My truck has 18k on it now so I figure I'll run Redline for at least another 20k which for me will be years. The front diff I'm only doing because I'll already have the tools, drain pan, etc out for the rear.

Ha OK I'll take some pictures and post the hex sizes. I bought a hex set that goes up to 9/16 so hopefully that's big enough...

I had to use 14mm, 9/16 wouldn't fit in mine.
 
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