Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 237 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 328 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 402 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 161 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 1,000 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 664 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,792

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ramffml

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I guess we should put this into more context for forum members.

This forum is heavy on Ram Hemi engine owners. Yes, there are V6 engine people, and the diesel people kind of have their own threads.

So these oil threads, in this forum, tend to be Hemi-centric. Which matters - because the Hemi is not oiled robustly. And that matters a lot to what type of oil is used and for how long.

Personally, for me that means no attempted maximum OCI intervals based solely on UOA. Why? Can not predict how contaminants restrict oil flow over time to a marginally-lubricated engine....these engines all have hydraulic circuits in them that weren't present 20+ years ago, that means sensitive orifices and passages to contaminant blockage and restriction (varnish, etc.). In a dirty environment like an engine oil sump, that means short OCI's. For me, that is 5,000 miles. (Just like with a sooty GDI single injector engine).

So what? Well, if you're changing at shorter intervals, there's no point in a zero VII oil, is there? The whole point with zero VII is no chance of sheardown and resultant varnish deposits. Why? For maximum OCI engine attempts, which is the exact opposite of what we need to do for Hemi engines.

So for me, a zero VII oil is useless, if it costs extra, anyway. And I don't see paying for high performance oils for my daily drivers either, since these are now GDI and need changing regularly.

That means the only place I use Red Line or HP Lubricants is for a Hemi band aid. All my other engines get PUP.

That's a good point, if you're not aiming for max mileage in the OCI then the no-vii has less value. And even the basic/cheapest PCMO offering has the same cleaning ability (according to Dave) so we're not losing much there either.
 

Burla

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61y6G6KEF9L.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg



So now valvoline is on board... SMART...
 

tjfdesmo

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61y6G6KEF9L.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg



So now valvoline is on board... SMART...
When I serviced the GC I used Amsoil in squeeze packs, and it was not as handy as I had expected. The fill locations required a length of tubing and once it gets oily you need four hands, or the tubing keeps falling off/leaking. It would be better without the taper on the spout IMHO.
 

Hemi395

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61y6G6KEF9L.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg



So now valvoline is on board... SMART...
Yeah I saw that, looks like they saw Amsoils easy packs and decided to jump on it. Smart in their part, traditional gear oil bottles are useless.

For my truck they're amazingly helpful.

For the wife's Jeep GC it wasn't helpful at all due to there being no room under there. Ended up using a quart bottle with a hand pump.
 

Wild one

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Yeah I saw that, looks like they saw Amsoils easy packs and decided to jump on it. Smart in their part, traditional gear oil bottles are useless.

For my truck they're amazingly helpful.

For the wife's Jeep GC it wasn't helpful at all due to there being no room under there. Ended up using a quart bottle with a hand pump.
You need to build yourself a cheap 1 gallon transfer pump out of a garden sprayer Cory.Getting fluid into my wifes Challenger with the diff braces is a real b!atch,but with this small pump and one of the small fuel line pieces i made up for it,it's pretty easy to put fluid back in the diff with-out having to remove the diff brace.

 

Travis8352

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No VOA yet but valvoline just released a new oil. Its ilsac gf6 and api SP. its called restore and protect and they claim it can remove 100% of piston deposits in 4 oil changes. It looks to be group III but we dont know if its using heavy group V for cleaning or something new. It sounds more like it could be some new chemistry

 

Burla

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No VOA yet but valvoline just released a new oil. Its ilsac gf6 and api SP. its called restore and protect and they claim it can remove 100% of piston deposits in 4 oil changes. It looks to be group III but we dont know if its using heavy group V for cleaning or something new. It sounds more like it could be some new chemistry

Interesting, so I don't know what is correct or not, but didnt their heavy duty line rename from restore to "one solution". And now they are using restore for the gas engines? I cant wait to see some uoa's, something that wont likely show up is they claim 79% on anti wear, but I'm guessing the AW additive package wont change much thanks to mr api. As usual, thanks travis for bringing some great info and interesting discussions. I will not discount this product, valvoline does surprise me once in a while, both in bad ways with moly levels and some good ways. I will refrain from judgement until we know more, if it is esters then count me in.

image-asset.jpg
 

Travis8352

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Interesting, so I don't know what is correct or not, but didnt their heavy duty line rename from restore to "one solution". And now they are using restore for the gas engines? I cant wait to see some uoa's, something that wont likely show up is they claim 79% on anti wear, but I'm guessing the AW additive package wont change much thanks to mr api. As usual, thanks travis for bringing some great info and interesting discussions. I will not discount this product, valvoline does surprise me once in a while, both in bad ways with moly levels and some good ways. I will refrain from judgement until we know more, if it is esters then count me in.

View attachment 533930
They re formulated that oil to premium blue restore gen2. Ill be really curious to see folks results with this new restore and protect oil
 

Travis8352

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Looks interesting, I would love to see the add pack for that.

The only thing with that is how do you check to see if that oil is cleaning things up? Checking the under side of pistons isn't exactly easy....
I guess if you cut open filters and see whats trapped you could just assume its deposits coming from the pistons
 

White six four

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Changed the oil yesterday (128k miles) with redline 0w30 (first time) and fram endurance fe2. I've never had lifter tick just your typical noisy 6.4. On initial startup all I can say is wow is the motor quiet now. Had to do a double take to make sure I actually started it.
 

Hemi395

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Changed the oil yesterday (128k miles) with redline 0w30 (first time) and fram endurance fe2. I've never had lifter tick just your typical noisy 6.4. On initial startup all I can say is wow is the motor quiet now. Had to do a double take to make sure I actually started it.
Great to hear! It is quite amazing what an oil can do to the sound of a motor. Until you hear it in person its hard to believe an oil can make that much difference.
 

Burla

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Changed the oil yesterday (128k miles) with redline 0w30 (first time) and fram endurance fe2. I've never had lifter tick just your typical noisy 6.4. On initial startup all I can say is wow is the motor quiet now. Had to do a double take to make sure I actually started it.
The benefits of actually following science, who knew?
 

Burla

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And interesting right? 0w30 in the 6.4 works well. Perhaps not just redline, but most 0w30's are well built and as we know 10 less swing points over 0w40 is gonna make it more stable. I would imagine super car formula also would be incredible in the 6.4. But if I was towing heavy, I would prefer the other direction as in 15w40 instead of what we are doing round here.
 

CanuckRam1313

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And interesting right? 0w30 in the 6.4 works well. Perhaps not just redline, but most 0w30's are well built and as we know 10 less swing points over 0w40 is gonna make it more stable. I would imagine super car formula also would be incredible in the 6.4. But if I was towing heavy, I would prefer the other direction as in 15w40 instead of what we are doing round here.
Agreed!

A high quality heavy duty oil like 15W40 in a heavy towing vehicle would likely net better results, overall.

However, my only caveat to this, IMO, would be in very cold climates where cold start up is critical, 0W30 or 0W40 would be my thought.
 
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