Thinking About Getting A Travel Trailer But I Know Nothing About Towing

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Pigeonman

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Giving some thought to getting a travel trailer this summer to do some camping but I know SFA about towing. Can anyone point me in the right direction for information on the basics of setting up my truck to do it right and stay within its limitations?

My truck is a 14' Express, quad cab 4x4, 5.7 with 3.55's and the 6 speed transmission. It came with the class IV receiver hitch, associated wiring and transmission oil cooler.

The trailer I've been eyeing is just over 21 feet long and weighs in dry at 3780 lb.

Somebody teach me....
 

NYCruiser

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First, you're going to need the brake controller installed in your truck if it doesn't have it. The trailers you will look at will have electric brakes controlled by a signal thru the 7-pin connector you hook up that requires the truck to have the controller to send the signal. You adjust the controller to get the brakes on the trailer to come on the way you want so the truck brakes aren't getting abused by the extra weight pushing the truck when you stop.

Next is to look up your truck's max cargo weight on the tag in your door jam. This weight will include any cargo/passengers and trailer tongue weight you will load onto the truck's suspension. Trailer tongue weight should be about 10-15% of the trailer's total weight. This will start to give you an idea of how heavy/big of a trailer you will be looking for.

Others will chime in, but hope this helps you get started.
 

mowin

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X2 on what NYCruiser posted. Remember the brochure for the tt will probably be less than delivered wt. Battery, propane, are usually not included in the weight of the tt, and tongue wt will increase as you add to the tt like dishes, food ect.
Also the payload for your truck includes a 150lb driver, but thats it. Fuel, passengers, gear, firewood, your dog if you have one, eats up payload.

Example.. lets say per your door sticker you have 1300 lbs of payload available.

1300
- 500 for tongue wt,
- 400 for all passengers
- 300 for gear ( chairs, firewood, etc)
_______________
= 100 lbs of available payload left.

Remember, these are estimates, but you get the idea...
 
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smurfs_of_war

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Like mentioned- make sure you have the ITBC installed if not already. Also- if you haven't got the fold out tow mirrors, invest in a set of clip ons with a spotter mirror (Cippa?)
That size is a good fit for both a starter unit and a 1500. You will have no troubles handling that. Just remember- the tongue weight applied subtracts from your trucks payload- so judge accordingly. I honestly think you'll have plenty of truck regardless.
With that weight- I would suspect your tongue weight once loaded might *just* cross the 500lbs golden rule, so look at a decent weight distribution hitch. You don't need anything crazy, but don't get a cheap one. One with 600-750lbs bars would be a good fit, and integrated sway control is a bonus. There are several like the blue ox that have all of the above plus if you ever move up a trailer size, you only need new bars, not a whole new setup. Quickly educate yourself on how they function and how to set them up. It's pretty easy.
Learn how to properly load the trailer so you don't get light on the tongue. A good rule of thumb is 10-15% of the trailers loaded weight should be on the tongue to tow smoothly. It's sometimes a challenge to distribute ypur load because it's not a perfectly flat surface, but you'll get the hang of it. Load heavy items low, 60% of the weight axle forward is a good ratio.
Make sure you have all of the proper tank chemicals on board and RV only TP :). Check your hoses- bring enough, and verify that you have an adapter to go from 30A to 15A. An extension for your power cord is a real God send too and can be had quite cheap.
Your TT tires should be inflated to max cold PSI. They are *likely* ST tires. So basically they are a balloon and will act accordingly. Check them for dry rot annually- if you see them cracking- time to replace.
If possible, head to a large empty parking lot and practice your maneuvering including backing up. Learn how the trailer tracks behind you.
When you are pulling it- your first and natural reaction will be to fight the way the truck is driving. Keep tow haul mode on to save your torque convertor. Your truck will rev a bit- it's doing as designed to keep the Hemi in the power band. When climbing grades, try to keep it to speed or close without letting the engine scream and try to eat itself. Basically pull grades by RPM, not some arbitrary speed limit. Good motorists will understand and give you room. Descending hills- you will want to get a feel for the engine braking ability. It's a very important feature that will save your brakes!
Speaking of brakes... for that trailer, your setting should be light electric. To properly set your brakes, pick a starting point- likely 5- the accellerate the truck to 25 mph. Then, squeeze the brake controller ONLY. The entire rig should come to a stop in a reasonable distance without lock8ng the trailer tires. You want to get it just to the point of lockup, then back it down little bits at a time until they don't lock up. Once you get that set- you're ready to hit the road!

Most impportantly- slow and steady. Give yourself lots of stopping distance and plan your routes. There is a lot to learn, but it is worth it! Stay safe and have fun!


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Pigeonman

Pigeonman

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Wow. Little more to it than just hooking up the hitch and driving away hey? Figured there would be. Thanks for the start. I'm gonna go check my door sticker shortly.

Would I be correct to assume that distributing as much of the weight as possible in the trailer would be better the reduce the overall payload on the truck?
 

PippinAin'tEasy

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Perfect size TT for that truck. Research weight distribution and sway control hitches. Also airbags or rear coil upgrades. Post specific questions as you get to each item and these guys will give you more knowledge and opinions than you ever knew you needed. Only problem I see you maybe having is in 6 months wanting a bigger TT so you'll need a bigger truck then a bigger TT etc, etc, etc,.......... [emoji12]

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smurfs_of_war

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Wow. Little more to it than just hooking up the hitch and driving away hey? Figured there would be. Thanks for the start. I'm gonna go check my door sticker shortly.

Would I be correct to assume that distributing as much of the weight as possible in the trailer would be better the reduce the overall payload on the truck?
Yup, that would be an accurate assumption- keeping most of your cargo in the trailer- but you have to be aware of the tongue weight for proper handling as well as the cargo capacity for the trailer. TTs use pretty flimsy axles that don't respond well to overloading.

One item I didn't mention is sway. You should understand it, what causes it, how to correct it and how to prevent it. TTs are prone to grabbing turbulence by design. A big, hollow box. The first few times a big rig blows past you at a high speed, you'll know exactly what I am talking about. The bow effect may cause you a bit of sphincter pucker- but it's normal. You just need to anticipate. Small corrections. One thing I have found that works is to hold a steady speed or slow down just a little bit and move to the right just a little bit. If I do that, I barely notice them passing me :)

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mowin

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Wow. Little more to it than just hooking up the hitch and driving away hey? Figured there would be. Thanks for the start. I'm gonna go check my door sticker shortly.

Would I be correct to assume that distributing as much of the weight as possible in the trailer would be better the reduce the overall payload on the truck?

Yes and no... you dont want to be tongue light, which will cause a very bad towing experience. Yes it would reduce tongue wt, but it wouldn't be safe. You need around 60-70% of the tt's wt, foward of the tt's axles. This means not adding all of your gear to the rear of the tt, which would reduce tongue wt to a unsafe level. Gear in the tt needs to be dispersed evenly, but its not really going to effect the trucks overall payload.

A good WDH (weight distribution hitch) will transfer weight from the rear axle back to the front axle. The more your rear squats, the less weight is on your front axle, affecting steering. The WDH will correct that.

Head to rv.net. you will read for days about towing setups.
 
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Pigeonman

Pigeonman

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Thanks again guys. I'm gonna spend a little quality time with Google and YouTube. I'll let you know if I have questions.
 

mowin

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Yup, that would be an accurate assumption- keeping most of your cargo in the trailer- but you have to be aware of the tongue weight for proper handling as well as the cargo capacity for the trailer. TTs use pretty flimsy axles that don't respond well to overloading.

One item I didn't mention is sway. You should understand it, what causes it, how to correct it and how to prevent it. TTs are prone to grabbing turbulence by design. A big, hollow box. The first few times a big rig blows past you at a high speed, you'll know exactly what I am talking about. The bow effect may cause you a bit of sphincter pucker- but it's normal. You just need to anticipate. Small corrections. One thing I have found that works is to hold a steady speed or slow down just a little bit and move to the right just a little bit. If I do that, I barely notice them passing me :)

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Oh the dreaded sphincter pucker from swaying trailers... been there done that, its not fun...
 

CabinDweller

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Perfect size TT for that truck. Research weight distribution and sway control hitches. Also airbags or rear coil upgrades. Post specific questions as you get to each item and these guys will give you more knowledge and opinions than you ever knew you needed. Only problem I see you maybe having is in 6 months wanting a bigger TT so you'll need a bigger truck then a bigger TT etc, etc, etc,.......... [emoji12]

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So true... I am finding myself in the cycle now. Last summer we bought a TT that "exercised" our 1500 Sport quite heavily. The truck actually did fine around here (Ohio) but my wife wants to start with some cross country trips this summer. Last weekend I traded the 1500 in on a new 3500 diesel so I could make these trips without stressing as much. Now... My wife has been burning up the internet looking at large 5th wheels. :emotions122:
 

smurfs_of_war

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So true... I am finding myself in the cycle now. Last summer we bought a TT that "exercised" our 1500 Sport quite heavily. The truck actually did fine around here (Ohio) but my wife wants to start with some cross country trips this summer. Last weekend I traded the 1500 in on a new 3500 diesel so I could make these trips without stressing as much. Now... My wife has been burning up the internet looking at large 5th wheels. :emotions122:
Ooooohhh... you're f***ed now.....
 

14hemiexpress

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A lot of questions have been answered here you truck is basically mine I don't have the black edition but a 14 qc 4x4. My payload sticker says just over 1500lbs. That is a great size trailer to start off with. You want 10-15% of the trailer weight to be on the tongue so if your looking at a 3800lb trailer (dry wt) by the time you get it loaded up you will be looking at 4500lbs ish depending on your gear and food you load up with. So you are looking at a 450-675lb toung weight witch leaves you 800-1000lbs left in your truck so that is great. On our trucks a WD hitch is required over 600lbs or 6000lb total trailer weight so you are on the edge of needing one (by the tounge weight) if your camp site you mainly go to isn't very far you can probably get away with just hooking it up and going. If you plan on traveling a lot a WD hitch and a sway control setup will make high wind and passing semi's less stress full. Over all your truck is more than adequate for that size trailer and I don't even think you will need the air lift bags I think with that kind of weight you'll sit level especially with a WD hitch.
 

Pitch1

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I tow a 5000 lb trailer with the same truck. Combination is great,I use WDH and friction anti sway bars. You do get pushed by the trucks but just keep an eye on the mirrors and you will be good.
I tow with T/H engaged and generally in 5th gear. On very long flat freeway stretches I will put it into 6th. 4th gear is comfortable in rolling or hilly areas. 3800 rpm in 4th gear that thing pulls like a freakin freight train. RPMs are your friend learn to embrace the noise,you are not hurting anything. Expect 9 to 11 mpg, on a 2600 mile east coast trip I averaged 10.2 which I thought was fantastic
 

takingatrip1

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Rent a u haul goto home Depot and buy some heavy building materials (keep the receipt) drive all day and see what you think. I used roofing material (72lbs each roll) took back some of it to find the weight my jeep felt comfortable towing. It's labor intensive... But it worked for me. The trailer weight was listed on the trailer and I added about 20 rolls and headed for the hills turned out around 1900 lbs is comfortable although the Jeep is rated much higher
 

mtofell

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Check out RV Lots of great info. Watch out for the "tow vehicles" forum. It's a lot brand bashing and useless information. To learn, try the "towing" forum.

Also, lots of good info about rvs in general in other forums. Your ahead of 95% of the world by knowing what you don't know and setting out to learn it.
 

smurfs_of_war

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Check out RV Lots of great info. Watch out for the "tow vehicles" forum. It's a lot brand bashing and useless information. To learn, try the "towing" forum.

Also, lots of good info about rvs in general in other forums. Your ahead of 95% of the world by knowing what you don't know and setting out to learn it.
The "Tow Vehicles" forum is like a boxing ring. If you don't have at least a 350/3500- you'd better put your gloves on and come out of the corner swinging!
I gave up on that place a long time ago but yes, there is a lot of good information there.

FWIW, irv2.com seems to be a little more even keeled.

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Petro_E

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You should be fine I pull a 26' trailer with two dirt bikes in the box of the truck. Watch the weight of a trailer that have the slide outs they are quite a bit heavier.
 

mowin

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The "Tow Vehicles" forum is like a boxing ring. If you don't have at least a 350/3500- you'd better put your gloves on and come out of the corner swinging!
I gave up on that place a long time ago but yes, there is a lot of good information there.

FWIW, irv2.com seems to be a little more even keeled.

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Rv.net towing forum is definitely were the weight police hang out. But if you wade through all the diesel and 3500 dually only bs, theres a ton of good info and people willing to help.
 
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