Transmission pan and fluid change questions

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joesstripclub

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Well, I just have a 3 ton harbor freight floor jack and some small 4 ton stands.

Guess I'm going to see how high I can get it before I even think about draining it. lol
Thanks for the help guys.
You will be fine with this, thats basically what I used. Set the rear axle on the jack stands high enough that the wheels are off the ground. Do all the things where the truck needs to be running with the truck on the jack stands for safety. Jack the truck as high as your floor jack will go when you do the final fill and you will be close enough. My transmission wasn't totally level but it was close enough, and I haven't had any issues in over a year.
 

BlownGP

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So in case anybody cares.

Changed the fluid out yesterday and I was definitely over thinking how to get the truck level part. lol
I forget once you start jacking up the diff, the suspension will go up with it. So I had plenty of lift from my floor jack to get the tires off the ground and trans level.

I got it pretty close to level, the bubble was just a little closer to the line on one side, but If I want up one more notch on my jack stands it would have been too high.

About those jack stands. So I happy I went and bought some 6 ton stands. My punny 2 tons would need a lot of wood to sit on to reach the axle and that would be scary when getting the truck into 2nd gear. Thanks @Wild one and @EdGs.

Adding fluid with a hot exhaust sucks!!!! Like why the *** is the fill port right where both exhaust meet? I burned myself twice. lol
Next time I will wear some burn sleeves.

Took a little over 5qts but I think I accidently went into 4th gear when doing the 2nd gear procedure, the truck spun so easy with the tires off the ground. Never done that before so it felt weird. hahaah

But it shifts a little smoother especially when going from PRND. Still have the bump thing, but just going to live with it.

Going to just drain and fill the fluid maybe after Christmas and should be good for while since I don't tow very often.

Thanks again guys for the help and confidence. Also helped having a few buddies around to make things go faster.
 

EdGs

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I have a piece of Nomex felt that I laid over the exhaust pipe while I was doing everything, and it worked really, really well. That is, until 30 seconds before I was done just got everything cleaned up, removed the felt, and introduced the back of my hand to the exhaust crossover. Only for a second, but that's all it took, and I have fast reflexes.....lol. Also added a couple words to the English language as well.

Very glad you got it done.

I was planning on doing mine a 2nd time not too long after I did the first one but unfortunately never did. Perhaps on this go-around I will. I am still debating whether or not to give the Valvoline Max life a try, it seems really good from what I've read here on this site, from members that have used it.
 

Wild one

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So in case anybody cares.

Changed the fluid out yesterday and I was definitely over thinking how to get the truck level part. lol
I forget once you start jacking up the diff, the suspension will go up with it. So I had plenty of lift from my floor jack to get the tires off the ground and trans level.

I got it pretty close to level, the bubble was just a little closer to the line on one side, but If I want up one more notch on my jack stands it would have been too high.

About those jack stands. So I happy I went and bought some 6 ton stands. My punny 2 tons would need a lot of wood to sit on to reach the axle and that would be scary when getting the truck into 2nd gear. Thanks @Wild one and @EdGs.

Adding fluid with a hot exhaust sucks!!!! Like why the *** is the fill port right where both exhaust meet? I burned myself twice. lol
Next time I will wear some burn sleeves.

Took a little over 5qts but I think I accidently went into 4th gear when doing the 2nd gear procedure, the truck spun so easy with the tires off the ground. Never done that before so it felt weird. hahaah

But it shifts a little smoother especially when going from PRND. Still have the bump thing, but just going to live with it.

Going to just drain and fill the fluid maybe after Christmas and should be good for while since I don't tow very often.

Thanks again guys for the help and confidence. Also helped having a few buddies around to make things go faster.
Glad you got it done,and it's working good for you. Wet rags draped over the exhaust help miniumize the burn factor,but you're right the fill plug is a b!atch to get at with the stock exhaust
 

Wild one

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So in case anybody cares.

Changed the fluid out yesterday and I was definitely over thinking how to get the truck level part. lol
I forget once you start jacking up the diff, the suspension will go up with it. So I had plenty of lift from my floor jack to get the tires off the ground and trans level.

I got it pretty close to level, the bubble was just a little closer to the line on one side, but If I want up one more notch on my jack stands it would have been too high.

About those jack stands. So I happy I went and bought some 6 ton stands. My punny 2 tons would need a lot of wood to sit on to reach the axle and that would be scary when getting the truck into 2nd gear. Thanks @Wild one and @EdGs.

Adding fluid with a hot exhaust sucks!!!! Like why the *** is the fill port right where both exhaust meet? I burned myself twice. lol
Next time I will wear some burn sleeves.

Took a little over 5qts but I think I accidently went into 4th gear when doing the 2nd gear procedure, the truck spun so easy with the tires off the ground. Never done that before so it felt weird. hahaah

But it shifts a little smoother especially when going from PRND. Still have the bump thing, but just going to live with it.

Going to just drain and fill the fluid maybe after Christmas and should be good for while since I don't tow very often.

Thanks again guys for the help and confidence. Also helped having a few buddies around to make things go faster.
If your truck has the 2 piece driveshaft,some guys have discovered the slip joint can cause a bump issue,and pulling it apart and lubing the splines with a graphite based anti-seaze to help miniumize the bump. It might not be your issue,but it never hurts to lube the slip joint splines every once in awhile anyways.Years ago trucks with 2 piece shafts had a zerk fitting,so you could actually grease the splines.
 

BlownGP

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I have a piece of Nomex felt that I laid over the exhaust pipe while I was doing everything, and it worked really, really well. That is, until 30 seconds before I was done just got everything cleaned up, removed the felt, and introduced the back of my hand to the exhaust crossover. Only for a second, but that's all it took, and I have fast reflexes.....lol. Also added a couple words to the English language as well.

Very glad you got it done.

I was planning on doing mine a 2nd time not too long after I did the first one but unfortunately never did. Perhaps on this go-around I will. I am still debating whether or not to give the Valvoline Max life a try, it seems really good from what I've read here on this site, from members that have used it.

Yeah, I thought I had my arm away from it, but was watching the fill hole for fluid and then sizzzzzle for a sec. lol

I used Max life in mine and from what I read on here. It works great. Can't beat it for the price.


Glad you got it done,and it's working good for you. Wet rags draped over the exhaust help miniumize the burn factor,but you're right the fill plug is a b!atch to get at with the stock exhaust

You know, I remember now you saying that in one of these transmission post. lol.. I just didn't remember Sunday. I remember next time.

If your truck has the 2 piece driveshaft,some guys have discovered the slip joint can cause a bump issue,and pulling it apart and lubing the splines with a graphite based anti-seaze to help miniumize the bump. It might not be your issue,but it never hurts to lube the slip joint splines every once in awhile anyways.Years ago trucks with 2 piece shafts had a zerk fitting,so you could actually grease the splines.

I think mines a one piece. I don't recall. I will have to check.
 

Gmantwo

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So I loosened my three transmission bolts in the back, but when I lift the back of the transmission, the engine goes up as well. Which raises the exhaust and doesn’t give me any more clearance to get the factory pan out. What did you guys do about that?
 

Gero

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For those who switched to maxlife, did you do another drain and fill or several drain and remove the old zf fluid by dilution?

I did the switch with the ppe but have done any drain and fills yet.
 

joesstripclub

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For those who switched to maxlife, did you do another drain and fill or several drain and remove the old zf fluid by dilution?

I did the switch with the ppe but have done any drain and fills yet.
I did two drain and fills within a couple weeks, that gets most of the old stuff out.
 

joesstripclub

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So I loosened my three transmission bolts in the back, but when I lift the back of the transmission, the engine goes up as well. Which raises the exhaust and doesn’t give me any more clearance to get the factory pan out. What did you guys do about that?
You dont need to jack up the transmission at all. Jack up the truck from the rear diff, you need the wheels off the ground anyway.
 

Gmantwo

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Yep, I was talking about getting the pan swapped out. Not enough clearance because of the exhaust crossover
 

SitKneelBend

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Ok, I used the info here and from loads of videos to service my 845RE in my 3.6L Ram yesterday at 81,100 miles. I'm looking to pick some brains (especially @Wild one ) with regards to my experience. Couple of things to note first...

1. I used this PPE Pan with an advertised 2 quarts additional capacity


2. I Have Bilstein 5100s at 2.1" on the truck (raising the front stock rake to level the truck)

I had to raise the truck nearly 12" in the rear to get the transmission pan rail almost level (I ran out of height on the floor jack and the bubble was about a 1/4 -1/5 off level). Not alarming as I see his as a result of the front being raised an additional 2" over stock height. I drained the truck from stone cold, sat overnight at least 16 hours in my workshop and was never started before draining. The expected amount of transmission Fluid came out at a little over the 5qt mark in my drain pan (if I had to guess I'd say 5 1/2qts).

On to filling, following the procedures on the green card and keeping in mind I'm using a pan that holds an additional two quarts, I was able to fill the transmission with nearly 9 quarts of fluid. 4 ounces were left over in the 9th quart after emptying all of the bottles into one to get a better idea of how much was used (the bottom of each quart had fluid left that the pump didn't reach. There were also times during the prefill (before engine start) and the running fill (with engine started) that if I didn't have the barbed end of the pump in and angled just right fluid would come out during pumping from splashing off an interior transmission part (I believe this amount was negligible though maybe 1/2quart of waste total throughout the service). The temperature at engine start was 77 degrees for the transmission.

Prior to service, I didn't really have any problems with the transmission other than if I started the truck and immediately shifted into gear to go it would take a while for things to spin up and start moving the truck forward out of the garage from a cold start (maybe 5-10 seconds, is this the torque convertor filling?). In addition, over the past 10 years of ownership I would experience hard downshifts from 8-7 or 7-6 at highway speeds only if the vehicle was driven for a long time (2-3+ hours).

I took the vehicle on a test drive yesterday after service and everything shifts smooth. No difference from before service. This morning I wanted to see what it acted like driving immediately after startup and it started moving quickly at idle with no hesitation (but I had to back out when normally I'm pulling forward so I'll get a better comparison tomorrow). I expected my temperatures to be lower with the PPE pan but at 81 degrees for the initial drive the temperatures reached 194 and at 61 degrees today the temperature was about 188 (prior to the change my temperatures would run anywhere from 185-195 under normal driving no load).

My only real concern and question for everyone is: is the amount of fluid it took to get the fluid to run out of the fill port with the truck leveled? I was between temps when I filled the almost 9qts and buttoned her up, when I got up and around to the other side of the truck to turn off the temps was 125, but I believe I was already done before it reached that temperature and was just slow in turning it off (temp get warm pretty quick on this). Is it possible to drain the expected 5qts from the stock pan and still have been running low on transmission fluid this whole time (possibly explaining the time it took to get power from the engine to the wheels on a cold start)? If it was low, I wonder if this could also explain the rough shifting on longer drives at highway speeds and flooring it to pass (sometimes).

Here are some pictures from my service for reference, do these magnets seem like they have an excessive amount of material on them for 81,100 miles and no prior service to the transmission?

1714929458222.png1714929498983.png1714929524878.png1714929555484.png1714929569426.png
 

Wild one

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Ok, I used the info here and from loads of videos to service my 845RE in my 3.6L Ram yesterday at 81,100 miles. I'm looking to pick some brains (especially @Wild one ) with regards to my experience. Couple of things to note first...

1. I used this PPE Pan with an advertised 2 quarts additional capacity


2. I Have Bilstein 5100s at 2.1" on the truck (raising the front stock rake to level the truck)

I had to raise the truck nearly 12" in the rear to get the transmission pan rail almost level (I ran out of height on the floor jack and the bubble was about a 1/4 -1/5 off level). Not alarming as I see his as a result of the front being raised an additional 2" over stock height. I drained the truck from stone cold, sat overnight at least 16 hours in my workshop and was never started before draining. The expected amount of transmission Fluid came out at a little over the 5qt mark in my drain pan (if I had to guess I'd say 5 1/2qts).

On to filling, following the procedures on the green card and keeping in mind I'm using a pan that holds an additional two quarts, I was able to fill the transmission with nearly 9 quarts of fluid. 4 ounces were left over in the 9th quart after emptying all of the bottles into one to get a better idea of how much was used (the bottom of each quart had fluid left that the pump didn't reach. There were also times during the prefill (before engine start) and the running fill (with engine started) that if I didn't have the barbed end of the pump in and angled just right fluid would come out during pumping from splashing off an interior transmission part (I believe this amount was negligible though maybe 1/2quart of waste total throughout the service). The temperature at engine start was 77 degrees for the transmission.

Prior to service, I didn't really have any problems with the transmission other than if I started the truck and immediately shifted into gear to go it would take a while for things to spin up and start moving the truck forward out of the garage from a cold start (maybe 5-10 seconds, is this the torque convertor filling?). In addition, over the past 10 years of ownership I would experience hard downshifts from 8-7 or 7-6 at highway speeds only if the vehicle was driven for a long time (2-3+ hours).

I took the vehicle on a test drive yesterday after service and everything shifts smooth. No difference from before service. This morning I wanted to see what it acted like driving immediately after startup and it started moving quickly at idle with no hesitation (but I had to back out when normally I'm pulling forward so I'll get a better comparison tomorrow). I expected my temperatures to be lower with the PPE pan but at 81 degrees for the initial drive the temperatures reached 194 and at 61 degrees today the temperature was about 188 (prior to the change my temperatures would run anywhere from 185-195 under normal driving no load).

My only real concern and question for everyone is: is the amount of fluid it took to get the fluid to run out of the fill port with the truck leveled? I was between temps when I filled the almost 9qts and buttoned her up, when I got up and around to the other side of the truck to turn off the temps was 125, but I believe I was already done before it reached that temperature and was just slow in turning it off (temp get warm pretty quick on this). Is it possible to drain the expected 5qts from the stock pan and still have been running low on transmission fluid this whole time (possibly explaining the time it took to get power from the engine to the wheels on a cold start)? If it was low, I wonder if this could also explain the rough shifting on longer drives at highway speeds and flooring it to pass (sometimes).

Here are some pictures from my service for reference, do these magnets seem like they have an excessive amount of material on them for 81,100 miles and no prior service to the transmission?

View attachment 542417View attachment 542418View attachment 542419View attachment 542420View attachment 542421
That's about normal for clutch material on the magnets.Say you got a full 8 to 8.5 quarts into the transmission minus 2 for the extra capacity and you're right where you should be on fluid. They claim the PPE pan will drop temps,but the 8 speeds thermostat still regulates the transmission temp,and will offset the pans extra cooling effects.Personally i think alot of the 8 speed trucks leave the factory with the bare mininium of fluid in the pan,which would explain your delayed convertor engagement you were noticing before the change.
 

Jeepwalker

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A lot of guys empty the torque coverter after the process...but lot harder on these tranny's. Why they didn't insist on a way to adapt a dipstick tube I'll never figure out. Oh...I understand why from a cost/service standpoint, but from a mechanic's standpoint...it sure doesn't help matters.
 

SitKneelBend

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That's about normal for clutch material on the magnets.Say you got a full 8 to 8.5 quarts into the transmission minus 2 for the extra capacity and you're right where you should be on fluid. They claim the PPE pan will drop temps,but the 8 speeds thermostat still regulates the transmission temp,and will offset the pans extra cooling effects.Personally i think alot of the 8 speed trucks leave the factory with the bare mininium of fluid in the pan,which would explain your delayed convertor engagement you were noticing before the change.
Thanks for the reply! It's also possible I'm underestimating the amount of waste I had. Unfortunately I didn't measure the pan before I started filling.
 

Wild one

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Thanks for the reply! It's also possible I'm underestimating the amount of waste I had. Unfortunately I didn't measure the pan before I started filling.
If the convertor is working faster,and it's shifting good,that leads me to think your truck had the bare mininium amount of fluid to start with.
The cars are famous for shipping with the diff fluid low,and i think it's all done to cut costs.If they save a few cents per vehicle,by shipping them with the bare amount of fluids,the bean counters are happy,customer not so much,lol
 

JHoward

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I got my truck back last Tuesday, "after a six month off the frame restoration" and I'm getting ready to do the tranny drain/fill using the PPE pan.

I'll need to get a couple of more quarts of transmission fluid, after reading these last couple of posts ... I'll have to look up the torq/tighten sequence, again.
 
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