Trany etiquette

[charonblk07]

^^ There's a guy who 'I' was looking up to when I started modding my truck back in '07, so that should say something. He may be a bigger ***** than me, but he knows his stuff I just want to keep my trans together with my ~650rwhp.

 

[Batt4Christ]

I would still highly recommend at least a VB upgrade as it's cheaper insurance and is around the $300 price range vs the $30000 range for a trans.

$30k tranny???!!!!!

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk

 

[charonblk07]

$30k tranny???!!!!!

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk

$3,000 sorry, thought I'd made the correction already.

 

[MGRAM]

You didn't have to correct it, common sense should of figured the typo out

 

[BlownGP]

When making BIG power any WOT, passing gear type of downshifts are bad for any brand/year of auto transmission's.

The Sharadon valve body all started with my truck. Needed to figure a way to get the truck to shift faster and really had no interest in marketing them. After building and testing mine a few of the 03 guy's that swapped to 4.56 gears kept hitting the rev limiter between shifts so I sent a couple out for testing and low and behold their transmission's shifted faster which kept them from hitting the limiter. HEMI450 can attest to this since he was one of the first ones to test one out at the track and the beginning of marketing the valve body. So yes, the Sharadon valve body does give you faster upshifts and no, the accumulator springs are still used. BTW, just getting the fact's out on that rumor.

Then I had an issue with the transmission all together. There was no way to keep a stock transmission under my truck so instead of knocking the power down I decided to build a better transmission. It's still a learning process. I helped with the design of the Stage II while Sharadon can take full credit for the Stage III and I went on from there to make a Stage IV which is still in testing in my truck.

I was the first to use the 68RFE diesel clutches in a 545RFE after finding how well the Alto Red's and Koleen steels DIDn'T work for certain clutch packs. There's also a 4 page write up with pic's in a past 2008 Mopar Muscle Magazine showing exactly how this is done. Show's you what parts where machined and the extra clutches that were added. I'm sure there are transmission shops that have copied the build and even added in their own mod's, but machining plates and adding clutches have been around for as long as I can remember. IMO that just because the 68RFE clutches can hold 750 ft/lbs tq for a diesel doesn't mean they'll hold 750 ft/lbs tq in a gas motor. Clutch application at RPM being the difference.

I do plenty of R&D with the 545. Currently my office is in shambles with small transmission parts scattered everywhere from solenoids, pressure regulators, clutches, steels, valve bodies, etc, all having certain mod's done to them.

When making power I think transmission tuning is a joke unless you can data log as to what is being done and why no tuner ie whitelightning or hemifever know's better to mess with mine. I can data log with a PCS standalone, but even still there's really no good tune you can create without premature failures either, which brings me back to beefing up the mechanical side of things inside the transmission. I'm currently working on my 15th 545 revision with #16 and 17 right behind it. Now I just need to get my butt to the track lol. I'm making close to 850hp/tq and going back to some of the mod's that I had on my 9th and 10th revisions which both looked good after 100 track passes. #12 and 13 didn't fair so well with less than 20 each before they both failed. Figure if I can make a transmission hold up to 200 of my passes that transmission should hold up to a good beating from the guy's making 500hp/tq.

Also, I'll be glad to answer any and all your questions you have about the myth's and rumor's of the 545. Please don't PM me. I'd rather keep it on an open forum and maybe even start a new topic.

Some mod's to my 4x4 Ram truck....6.1 based 392, Paxton 1500 blower with 2 small stages of n2o, custom ground Cammotion camshaft, 3800 Edge Racing converter, 3.92 gears, SMT6 with Superchips 3815 for tuning and a bunch of other stuff.

1.48 60' 6.87@98 1/8 11.03@118 1/4

Is it the clutches that fail the most in these trans? That's what it seems everybody always talks about to upgrade.

What about the input shaft, Intermediate/Forward shaft, pump shaft, sprag? They can take some abuse. No need to get some hardened ones?

 

[taman86]

So since we are on the topic of trannies. I have done those exact not to dos a couple times. What I have noticed the last week is when I start the truck and go to drive after sitting a long period of time there is a delayed response going into reverse and from reverse to drive. After I drive it for a while it doesn't do it anymore. It is recently tuned in the last couple weeks.

 

[hemidup]

Is it the clutches that fail the most in these trans? That's what it seems everybody always talks about to upgrade.

What about the input shaft, Intermediate/Forward shaft, pump shaft, sprag? They can take some abuse. No need to get some hardened ones?

The most problematic clutch pack is OD. Over the years I chased around increasing line pressure, adding more clutches, different brand clutches and came to this conclusion after figuring those were the issues. Its not the clutches themselves or that line pressure is the problem, but the shift schedule timing is what kills them. They are slow to engage and slow to disengage which creates drag and heat from slipping which in turns glazes the clutch surface. Once glazed it seals the clutch from absorbing oil and with not enough oil in the clutch creates heat from slip which in turns overheats the steel. Once the steel is overheated it then totally destroy's the clutch. The 1 sided 68RFE diesel clutches are known to 'cup' from heat and once heated they become distorted and warp which then takes away the needed clutch clearances so you end up with the clutches and steels dragging against themselves even when the clutch pack is not applied. And all it takes is for 1 clutch or steel to warp to take away the clearance which I'll post up a pic here at the end. Also the shift rpm has much to do with it since a diesel shifts at a much lower rpm than our Hemi's and the reason they're not used in our transmissions.

The only sure fire way to avoid this is with a fully programmable PCS transmission stand alone controller. You can adjust the shift speeds by hundredths of a second. However you would need to create your own program which you would probably go through a few transmissions before you got the tune right. Can't adjust shift speeds like that with Diablo or Superchips.

Also I really see no need for hardened or billet parts for our applications since we won't make near the tq that a modified Cummins can put out. The only hard parts that I've seen broken has been a bellville return spring and once a backing plate that I cut too thin when I tried to use 16 1 sided 68RFE steels and frictions.

 

[hemidup]

So since we are on the topic of trannies. I have done those exact not to dos a couple times. What I have noticed the last week is when I start the truck and go to drive after sitting a long period of time there is a delayed response going into reverse and from reverse to drive. After I drive it for a while it doesn't do it anymore. It is recently tuned in the last couple weeks.

The most common issue would be low transmission fluid or a loose filter. The flat one in particular. Or a sticky drain back ball assembly that's inside the transmission.

 

[Brakelate]

1.48 60' 6.87@98 1/8 11.03@118 1/4

Outstanding!


Now, this is a man who earned his reputation practicing what he preaches and getting out there and getting it done in the "real" world. Not some show queen with a bunch of theories who bolts on parts with a big budget who "thinks" things will hold went it comes time to put the power to the ground.

Kudo's. Great numbers. Much respect my friend.

Listen up when the choir stops making noise folks, church is in session.

 

[Jerseymike]

Hmmm. That is some good info. My truck is in the shop and they are saying a snap ring broke. I noticed the transgo kit comes with a snap ring but I thought Dodge had already started using a stronger snap ring? What is the primary cause of this failure? Could it be to much line pressure? Or did I push my shift rpms to high @ 6200?? Thanks.

 

[hemidup]

Hmmm. That is some good info. My truck is in the shop and they are saying a snap ring broke. I noticed the transgo kit comes with a snap ring but I thought Dodge had already started using a stronger snap ring? What is the primary cause of this failure? Could it be to much line pressure? Or did I push my shift rpms to high @ 6200?? Thanks.

Supposedly the 99-03 transmissions had the snap ring issue which personally I've never seen a broken one. In 04 and up Mopar started using a wider .090" snap ring that holds the UD/OD reaction plate in place so no need to replace it with the Transgo snap ring. Also the Transgo snap ring is not tapered like the factory OEM and vary in thickness from .090" to .093" and the reason I like using the OEM.

I've personally never seen a broken snap ring and I highly doubt yours was caused from too much line pressure or shift rpm's. I think your broken snap ring (and I don't which one it was) was caused from incorrect assembly which I have seen come from the factory this way and its always the tapered 2C snap ring which had not been seated into the case all the way but still not broken. Are you sure it was a broken snap ring and not something else?

 

[Jerseymike]

That is what the service writer said when he called me. When I brought it in the truck wouldnt shift into overdrive and was shifting all gears hard. Didnt really seem like it was slipping at all, the problem seemed to occur after a really hard 1-2 shift. He also said there are metal shavings in the valve body. They are getting a new valve body which is why it is taking 3 weeks to repair. Maybe it was a problem from the factory because after they tore the trans down, he confirmed it would be covered under warranty even though it has a tune.

Im just trying to figure it out so it doesnt happen again. I only have bolt on mods so I didnt think the trans would go out this quickly.

 

[hemidup]

That is what the service writer said when he called me. When I brought it in the truck wouldnt shift into overdrive and was shifting all gears hard. Didnt really seem like it was slipping at all, the problem seemed to occur after a really hard 1-2 shift. He also said there are metal shavings in the valve body. They are getting a new valve body which is why it is taking 3 weeks to repair. Maybe it was a problem from the factory because after they tore the trans down, he confirmed it would be covered under warranty even though it has a tune.

Im just trying to figure it out so it doesnt happen again. I only have bolt on mods so I didnt think the trans would go out this quickly.

With shavings in your valve body, definitely something let loose inside the transmission. You don't see much debris inside there, if any, thanks to the 2 filter system. Lucky your trans is being covered under warranty. I hope the converter is covered too.

 

[Jerseymike]

He didnt say anything about the torque converter. I hope they replace it if its going to be an issue. You think metal got into the TC? I would think they have certain procedures to follow for this type of failure.

 

[hemidup]

If its in your valve body its in your converter.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

I've been fortunate with mine, having often drove it hard since new and it still on the original trans. However I have a HD cooler, Edge 2800 TC, LP booster and a Sharadon stg III valve body. I never play or go WOT unless I'm out of OD. I relocated the OD button to the steering wheel to be operated with either hand (SLT radio buttons). I launch from a 1000rpm load using DR's. I usually see 130 at cruise and 160-170 when in traffic or playing hard. Life is good...

 

[BlownGP]

The most problematic clutch pack is OD. Over the years I chased around increasing line pressure, adding more clutches, different brand clutches and came to this conclusion after figuring those were the issues. Its not the clutches themselves or that line pressure is the problem, but the shift schedule timing is what kills them. They are slow to engage and slow to disengage which creates drag and heat from slipping which in turns glazes the clutch surface. Once glazed it seals the clutch from absorbing oil and with not enough oil in the clutch creates heat from slip which in turns overheats the steel. Once the steel is overheated it then totally destroy's the clutch. The 1 sided 68RFE diesel clutches are known to 'cup' from heat and once heated they become distorted and warp which then takes away the needed clutch clearances so you end up with the clutches and steels dragging against themselves even when the clutch pack is not applied. And all it takes is for 1 clutch or steel to warp to take away the clearance which I'll post up a pic here at the end. Also the shift rpm has much to do with it since a diesel shifts at a much lower rpm than our Hemi's and the reason they're not used in our transmissions.

The only sure fire way to avoid this is with a fully programmable PCS transmission stand alone controller. You can adjust the shift speeds by hundredths of a second. However you would need to create your own program which you would probably go through a few transmissions before you got the tune right. Can't adjust shift speeds like that with Diablo or Superchips.

Also I really see no need for hardened or billet parts for our applications since we won't make near the tq that a modified Cummins can put out. The only hard parts that I've seen broken has been a bellville return spring and once a backing plate that I cut too thin when I tried to use 16 1 sided 68RFE steels and frictions.

Thanks buddy. More good info.

I forget there's a variation of this trans in the Cummins. Those boys can make some power.lol

 

[Jerseymike]

If its in your valve body its in your converter.

Ok. I will have to call and see what they say about replacing the TC.

 

[taman86]

So some things to look into to help the durability of the trans is a sharadon vb and trans go shift kit or just the valve body? And also a deeper pan?

 

[hemidup]

So some things to look into to help the durability of the trans is a sharadon vb and trans go shift kit or just the valve body? And also a deeper pan?

The Sharadon valve bodies incorporate the Transgo shift kit. Also an extra capacity transmission pan wouldn't hurt.