Truck cranks, but does not turn over

[FF/EMT Brzak]

Ive had a great deal of stress with this truck. 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 that had the rear end seize up from a recall that was performed, and still failed, which dropped the driveshaft in the process, and then cracked my transmission motor, and transfer case from the force of the driveshaft spinning at 60mph. After that, I lost compression in cylinder 6, having the whole top half of the motor rebuilt, and now itwon’t run. I turn the key over, and it turns over all day long, but will not run. I’ve replaced camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor in hopes from other forums were right, but weren’t. The TIPM is good as well as the fuel pump. I can hear the pump, and you can smell the gas when it turns over. Weird thing, I unplugged the camshaft sensor, and it runs for a few seconds at a time with it unplugged. I did a diagnosis with a Mac tools scanner, and it brought up a code for the ASD. I checked all wires going to the TIPM, fuses involving the ASD, and everything seems fine. I’m just really not wanting to take this to the stealership if I don’t have to. Anything at this point would be appreciated. Sorry if somebody else posted this same problem, I just didn’t find anything while searching

 

[Ramitiner]

Did you check for spark?

 

[FF/EMT Brzak]

Did you check for spark?

I have, and I’ve also checked my voltage off the coils, and it seemed dim. I was told those use low current, but I’m still uncertain on that one. I’m just at the end with this thing. I just don’t get the fact I drove all day the day before all it died on me with no issue, then boom, dead. I did have trouble with it every once, and I mean once in a great while of it stalling. The thing that gets me thinking is that I can unplug the camshaft sensor, which is new, and it will completely turn over. When it does turn over, it just chugs, and dies out


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[Ramitiner]

It is also very possible that although new, it is defective

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

Had a horse like that once. Rode him all day then thump, fell over deader'n a door nail.

 

[indept]

Had a horse like that once. Rode him all day then thump, fell over deader'n a door nail.

So the horse had a bad camshaft sensor too?

 

[FF/EMT Brzak]

So the horse had a bad camshaft sensor too?

I’ve just about had... Really, I have had it with the truck. It’s been one thing after another. I think it’s time to tow it to a repair shop, cut my losses, and say bye bye. My luck, I’ll take it there, and the thing will run. I’ve only put less than 1000k on the motor since the rebuild, it could be something that is loose from them putting it back together. I guess I’ll just get it there, and see how far I gotta bend over.


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[RoadRamblerNJ]

I’ve just about had... Really, I have had it with the truck. It’s been one thing after another. I think it’s time to tow it to a repair shop, cut my losses, and say bye bye. My luck, I’ll take it there, and the thing will run. I’ve only put less than 1000k on the motor since the rebuild, it could be something that is loose from them putting it back together. I guess I’ll just get it there, and see how far I gotta bend over.


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Sorry about the horse thing.

I'm thinking you might have a break in the camshaft sensor wire. It does something "different" when you unplug it. Could be intermittent break in the middle, hidden by insulation. A bad crimp. (Had that on a Harley. Was grounding to inside of handlebars. After quite a long ride also).
Could be a wire you moved out of your way. Could be a loose ground too. It does sound electrical. And as mentioned earlier, it's possible you got a bad sensor out of the box.
Engines need 4 things to run.
1. Air/Fuel mixture
2. Compression
3. Spark
4. Reasonably close timing.
You already know the first 3 are present.

Mr. Ed

 

[FF/EMT Brzak]

Sorry about the horse thing.

I'm thinking you might have a break in the camshaft sensor wire. It does something "different" when you unplug it. Could be intermittent break in the middle, hidden by insulation. A bad crimp. (Had that on a Harley. Was grounding to inside of handlebars. After quite a long ride also).
Could be a wire you moved out of your way. Could be a loose ground too. It does sound electrical. And as mentioned earlier, it's possible you got a bad sensor out of the box.
Engines need 4 things to run.
1. Air/Fuel mixture
2. Compression
3. Spark
4. Reasonably close timing.
You already know the first 3 are present.

Mr. Ed

The horse bit made me laugh, lol. I’ll run a volt meter, instead of a test light. Those prove more useful sometimes. Hate chasing wires.....


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[SYKRAMMAN]

I did a diagnosis with a Mac tools scanner, and it brought up a code for the ASD. I checked all wires going to the TIPM, fuses involving the ASD, and everything seems fine.

That’s what I’d be chasing, those tipm’s don’t need much to fail and still “look” good. It could have a hairline crack in the soldier on the circuit board somewhere giving you issues.

Also, was the code a stored, pending or active code?

 

[FF/EMT Brzak]

That’s what I’d be chasing, those tipm’s don’t need much to fail and still “look” good. It could have a hairline crack in the soldier on the circuit board somewhere giving you issues.

I did replace the tipm with no relief. It actually made the truck worse. It wouldn’t even turn the truck over. I replaced it with the original, and actually had all power came right back. I’m just going to make it the service shops headache for a week.


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[FF/EMT Brzak]

That’s what I’d be chasing, those tipm’s don’t need much to fail and still “look” good. It could have a hairline crack in the soldier on the circuit board somewhere giving you issues.

Also, was the code a stored, pending or active code?

P0688 was my code that came up. It was active. The CEL does flash for a couple seconds after the engine cranks


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