What LED's Work with Stock Quad Reflector Dust Caps Installed

[mrack]

Thanks, All.

I just received my high/low set and installed today into my new headlight assemblies.
Factory dust caps fit tight, and zero messages on the EVIC; All Is Good!!
Now I just need to adjust the height of the new headlight assemblies tonight.

Great light output!
All in to my door was $100CDN for the full set as pictured.

You did clock them right? The high beams were clocked perfectly out of the box as I recall but the low beams take some adjusting.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

You did clock them right? The high beams were clocked perfectly out of the box as I recall but the low beams take some adjusting.

All four required adjustments to meet perfect 9&3 settings...

 

[RamDiver]

All four required adjustments to meet perfect 9&3 settings...

Did you pull out the grill or use the @corneileous method with a long extension to remove the housings?

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[CanuckRam1313]

Did you pull out the grill or use the @corneileous method with a long extension to remove the housings?

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Removed the grill.
Takes all of 5 minutes to remove the grill, and allows for a much better time installing them.

 

[corneileous]

Did you pull out the grill or use the @corneileous method with a long extension to remove the housings?

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The corneileous method…lol. You know, the last several times I’ve had to mess with my headlights, I found that it’s just so much easier to remove the grill.

 

[RamDiver]

Removed the grill.
Takes all of 5 minutes to remove the grill, and allows for a much better time installing them.

Thanks for the update, I'll invest the extra 5 minutes to make my life easier.

The corneileous method…lol. You know, the last several times I’ve had to mess with my headlights, I found that it’s just so much easier to remove the grill.

I thought you'd enjoy that reference.

I found what I required to remove the light housings, not removing the grill first and tried a dry run, just placing the socket onto the bolt head.

It was very easy to see all the potential issues, from the bolt dropping out of the socket to having to wrestle the housing out of the tight tolerance of the bumper and/or grill.

And then the re-installation would have all the same fun with the added thrill of starting the bolt threads and not having the bolt disappear somewhere inconvenient.

Maybe, if it saved an hour of my life but not for 5 or 10 minutes.

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[CanuckRam1313]

Thanks for the update, I'll invest the extra 5 minutes to make my life easier.





I thought you'd enjoy that reference.

I found what I required to remove the light housings, not removing the grill first and tried a dry run, just placing the socket onto the bolt head.

It was very easy to see all the potential issues, from the bolt dropping out of the socket to having to wrestle the housing out of the tight tolerance of the bumper and/or grill.

And then the re-installation would have all the same fun with the added thrill of starting the bolt threads and not having the bolt disappear somewhere inconvenient.

Maybe, if it saved an hour of my life but not for 5 or 10 minutes.

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Make sure you start the truck, turn the wheels to full stop in one direction (doesn't matter which one), and that flap on the front wheel well cover, open it up.

You'll have to feel around for the slide lock mechanism and gently pull it down.. your fingers will know what it is as there is a small lip. Then a firm but gentle pull down unlocks it.

This is to lock the headlight assembly into its cradle.

To attempt this without removing the grill, IMO, would be a complete bugger of a time!

Also, be gentle but firm on popping out the grill tabs (a couple on each side). Once you do it once, it's less than 5 minutes to remove the front grill assembly.

 

[RamDiver]

Make sure you start the truck, turn the wheels to full stop in one direction (doesn't matter which one), and that flap on the front wheel well cover, open it up.

You'll have to feel around for the slide lock mechanism and gently pull it down.. your fingers will know what it is as there is a small lip. Then a firm but gentle pull down unlocks it.

This is to lock the headlight assembly into its cradle.

To attempt this without removing the grill, IMO, would be a complete bugger of a time!

Also, be gentle but firm on popping out the grill tabs (a couple on each side). Once you do it once, it's less than 5 minutes to remove the front grill assembly.

Thanks for the tips, always appreciated.

Please feel free to share any other items that you have learned. And I'm curious if you required much beam height adjustment afterwards.

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[CanuckRam1313]

Thanks for the tips, always appreciated.

Please feel free to share any other items that you have learned. And I'm curious if you required much beam height adjustment afterwards.

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I did require an adjustment after I installed the 5100's and brought the fronts up to 2.1" height adjustment.

Then, after the LED's went in they needed a touchup, too.

Now that I have whole new OEM headlight assemblies altogether, and new Fahren LED's, I must do a good adjustment over this weekend as they are really out of whack, straight out of the factory boxes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIow5YgdRro

Best dang how to I've seen, and I use it to a "T", and it works great.
About 3-min in is where the technical set up for alignment start, but the whole video is gem!

 

[DesertRoads]

The Fahren's have definitely done well in the stock reflector housing for me. I've compared a bunch of other brands before buying and they seem to work the best in our reflector application.

 

[NETim]

Re-surrecting this moderately Fahren oriented thread. Which Fahren bulb model are we talking here? When I visit Amazon I can find different versions of Fahren LED 9005's. Ones with internal resistors and some with external inline resistors.

Will the models with the external resistors fit inside the dust caps? Or are the wires long enough to install the resistors outside of the dust cap?

Thanks!

 

[hunterdan]

I suggest watching some of the reviews from this channel. If nothing else, you can review his spreadsheet linked in the video descriptions to see which ones perform the best. Led bulb companies are constantly releasing newer models and some of the posts that were posted a year or more ago are referencing bulbs that likely don't exist anymore. And, some of the updated designs don't always translate to better results.

https://youtube.com/@CarLightReviews?si=hg-JOFcyYN6GPLis

 

[RamDiver]

Re-surrecting this moderately Fahren oriented thread. Which Fahren bulb model are we talking here? When I visit Amazon I can find different versions of Fahren LED 9005's. Ones with internal resistors and some with external inline resistors.

Will the models with the external resistors fit inside the dust caps? Or are the wires long enough to install the resistors outside of the dust cap?

Thanks!

I bought this set of Forscher LED by Fahren sometime last May and didn't get around to installing them until just recently.

https://www.amazon.com/FAHREN-H11-9005-Replacement-Waterproof/dp/B0CM95QZK9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3TIN4PY8CCHB5&keywords=forscher%2Bled%2Blights&qid=1701634670&sprefix=forscher%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1

It contains a set of H11s & 9005s, however, upon opening my projectors I discovered that I require 2 sets of 9005 bulbs instead.

I have another set of 9005s arriving this Tuesday and hope to complete the installation of both sets soon.

I did test fit one of the 9005 bulbs and although it required a bit of fiddling, it did fit along with the decoder module. And I had plenty of clearance to replace the housing cover.

I no longer see the decoder module in the description but I grabbed a picture from one of mine.



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[Atcer2018]

Also properly aiming your headlights is important and easy to do. On your headlight lens you should see a tiny circle molded into the lens around the middle of the low beam. This is the geographical center of the low beam. Measure the distance from the ground to that circle. Subtract two inches from the measurement on the driver side and subtract one inch from the measurement on the passenger side. The reasoning behind this is a slightly higher area of coverage along the side of the road so it’s easier to spot animals or debris. Then on level ground park your truck 25 feet away from a wall. On that wall mark the measurements taken from the ground to the circle minus the inch or two calculated earlier and mark the appropriate height for both the driver and passenger side. Lift the hood and along the front fenders find the two adjustment holes for the headlights. On the 1500 series trucks only one hole has the adjustment nut. Using a 1/4 inch driver with 6 inch or longer extension and a 7mm socket turn the adjustment nut so the light cutoff line is level with the marks you made on the wall. Close the hood, gather your tools and know your headlights are properly adjusted.

 

[NETim]

I suggest watching some of the reviews from this channel. If nothing else, you can review his spreadsheet linked in the video descriptions to see which ones perform the best. Led bulb companies are constantly releasing newer models and some of the posts that were posted a year or more ago are referencing bulbs that likely don't exist anymore. And, some of the updated designs don't always translate to better results.

https://youtube.com/@CarLightReviews?si=hg-JOFcyYN6GPLis

Thanks! I am still wondering if the external drivers/resistors will fit inside the dust cover in general. Just looking at what designs to reject at the outset.

 

[hunterdan]

Thanks! I am still wondering if the external drivers/resistors will fit inside the dust cover in general. Just looking at what designs to reject at the outset.

I ran the auxito version of the all in one and it for just fine in the low beams.