My Mechanic Could Have Killed Me

[O.R.T.]

Only to provide added insight without pointing fingers.

The only additional steps I add to any brake job that has not already been described in a post listing steps prior is before I flip the old pads around so as to safely press the pistons is I fully clean down the calipers, including a scrub with an old soft toothbrush. I then inspect the pistons and seals followed up by checking for corrosion and cracks in the piston and seals. I then check to be sure the piston seals haven’t migrated out of their notches. Note, make damned sure pad wear is even before using an old pad as a quick trick. Most times I use a small block of soft plywood. It prevents “issues”. Then while compressing the pistons SLOWLY I back off the bleeder while remaining wary of fluid level at the reservoir. I pause after a 2-3mm movement of the pistons, tighten the bleeder back up, and pull the wood block or spacer pads out again to clean things up and MAKE SURE THE DAMN PISTON SEALS AREN’T CREEPING OUT OF THEIR NOTCHES WHICH WILL CAUSE THEM TO TEAR OR DISLODGE OR I HAVEN’T ACCIDENTALLY STRESSED A PISTON CAUSING IT TO CRACK, CHIP, OR GO CROOKED IN THE BORE WHICH WILL CAUSE IT TO SEIZE TEMPORARILY OR PERMANENTLY AND THEN GO “BANG” UNDER HIGH HYDRAULIC PRESSURE WHEN IT IS FORCED LOOSE AND HITS THE BRAKE PAD BACKING PLATE CAUSING IT TO CRACK, LOSE A SEAL, FAIL, AND CAUSE FLUID LOSS.

Are we jiving here? Getting what I’m laying out? While I’m not pointing any fingers I know you get what’s being laid out for visualization.

 

[O.R.T.]

*Pistons rarely crack or fail from normal use. It happens but it’s rare.**If you go all Samsonite Ape on the pistons pushing/compressing them in wrong they fracture from the stress riser the tool or a crooked plate tool or backwards pad causes. Even pressing down on a reversed pad that has uneven wear will cause the pad backing plate to be pushed down at an angle creating a stress riser point.

Again, not pointing a finger, just laying out some real facts. LAWYER UP MAN! Go get em!

 

[O.R.T.]

Almost forgot, I’m also glad you’re still around to post this bullcrap that happened. Let us know what plays out.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

Yeah, I should have bought crows feet before I started.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Arsenal 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

66RFE/68RFE Thermo Bypass Valve Install


2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Redline 5W-30 RP 10-48
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Line wrenches would be best. You touch all six sides. Don't slip off. Also come with swivel ratcheting heads. Once you get them, you'll wonder why you waited so long. I hardly ever use my crows feet any more.
While I was watching your video, I caught myself cocking my head and trying to reach into the phone to help you! LOL. Been there many times. Thanks for saving up all those curse words for another day. Great video. Thanks!
PS: I only included pics for the young guys that may be unaware they exist. Not insinuating you don't know what they are.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

It looks like to me that the Mechanic used Channel locks on the piston and unevenly retracted it into the caliber and didn't release the bleeder screw and that cracked the piston from the jaws slipping on the piston and probably ripped the dust boot on the caliper and damaged the piston seal. I've been doing my brakes for all of my vehicles for 40 plus years
and this is typical of some young individual not caring to do the job right because of the unexperienced ********. Make this Person pay for it and not let his crap service go to another poor unsuspected person, Is this guys shop repair certified with the state to do auto repair?

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

The kit is great, especially for older vehicles that still use the "pins on a cube" type tool.

But the way Ive been doing it for years is simple: put the old pad back on the caliper, backwards (friction material against piston) and get yourself an Irwin (or whatever brand) speed clamp. Crack open the bleeder screw, attach a hose to catch brake fluid and clamp down on the pad with the clamp centered in the pad and the rear of the clamp on the back of the caliper case.

Once the piston is retracted, tighten the bleeder screw and you are done.

Always retracts them evenly (even 2 piston), wont harm any parts and the possibly dirty fluid that was in the caliper goes out the bleeder screw instead of back into the lines.

+1
Exactly how I've been doing it since the 1970's.
I'll add this. Once done, I will bleed both sides until new fluid is coming out with no trace of the old fluid. That way I know there is no water in the entire system. Cheap insurance I think.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

They are called line wrench,s

Nope.
Line wrenches and crows feet are two completely different things.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

Why not change post title to "I ignored my e-brake light not going out, and drove truck without checking fluid level or anything. It could have killed me".



A 100k brake component had a failure. Yes it's unfortunate it happened right after a service. Yes it may or may not be their fault.

But if you didn't drive truck with e-brake light on it may not have happened.
Or it may have already happened. We will never know because by your own admittance you share partial liability in this incidence.

Matter of fact if you had hit and injured someone after knowingly ignoring a brake fault light, your mechanic would be the last person involved who would be worrying about going to court.

Hopefully I've added the appropriate level of "drama" to this thread that you were looking for.

As far as the "My Mopar could of killed me" part. I totally agree.
It plainly states in the owners manual that ignoring critical systems warnings in your instrument panel may result in serious injury or death.

Ever read a Harley Davidson shop manual? There is a warning on about every other page notifying you something you either do ir didn't do could result in serious injury or DEATH. It's repeated so many times, nobody in their right mind would dare work on one. LOL.
Beep, beep beep, "MUST bring to dealership, beeep, beep beep.....Must br............on & on.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

Thanks. Caliper is worthless to me now. I paid him $250 to put a new one on + another $55 to keep the core so I could investigate. I am looking to go down there and get my money back or will take them to small claims. Not worth my time, but I just can't let them get away with this ****, especially when it comes to brakes, this could have been a disaster.

Listen, I was born & raised in North Jersey and yeah, my last name ends in a vowel. I was thinking and as long as you still have this caliper, maybe you would want to go "show it to this guy". Like 6 or 7 times so he sees it real freakin' good, you know what I'm sayin'?
Then, I think he'll be happy to reimburse you. If not, you could "show it to him" again. [emoji41]

 

[gofishn]

Listen, I was born & raised in North Jersey and yeah, my last name ends in a vowel. I was thinking and as long as you still have this caliper, maybe you would want to go "show it to this guy". Like 6 or 7 times so he sees it real freakin' good, you know what I'm sayin'?
Then, I think he'll be happy to reimburse you. If not, you could "show it to him" again. [emoji41]

uh uh, no, nope don't do it.
Forget the advise of the Passionate fella with a vowel at the end of his name.
If it does not matter 5 years from now, then it does matter now.
If it matters 5 years now, then wait 5 years so you will no longer be a suspect.

 

[BWL]

Only have to wait a few more days. There's a night where having on a costume hiding who you are is normal. It's October 31st and I think it's called revenge night. Lol. That bags not full of candy!

 

[BWL]

Just to clarify. The lol in the above statement signifies that it is meant humorously and not that I would endorse such activities.

 

[Elevated 2013]

Line wrenches would be best. You touch all six sides. Don't slip off. Also come with swivel ratcheting heads. Once you get them, you'll wonder why you waited so long. I hardly ever use my crows feet any more.
While I was watching your video, I caught myself cocking my head and trying to reach into the phone to help you! LOL. Been there many times. Thanks for saving up all those curse words for another day. Great video. Thanks!
PS: I only included pics for the young guys that may be unaware they exist. Not insinuating you don't know what they are.View attachment 184440View attachment 184441

I’ve got line wrenches but I’ve never seen the flexible head version. How many millions of dollars did Matco nail you for that set??

 

[madtrucker2016]

Nope.
Line wrenches and crows feet are two completely different things.

I know that that is why I told him he needs a line wrench. Not a crows socket read the post your a little mixed up.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I know that that is why I told him he needs a line wrench. Not a crows socket read the post your a little mixed up.

My apologies.
Just re-read your post. Now I see where I assumed you meant one thing (crows foot) had a different name (line wrench) but was actually the same tool. My bad.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I’ve got line wrenches but I’ve never seen the flexible head version. How many millions of dollars did Matco nail you for that set??

Oh, I just grabbed a few pics from the interwebs.
My tools are in storage until I find anotgher house.
To be honest, I don't own flex head line wrenches. Just straight with a 15 degree offset, like a box wrench.

 

[madtrucker2016]

Boy you cant catch a brake on your truck

 

[O.R.T.]

Boy you cant catch a brake on your truck

True but the mechanic is also not gonna catch a break. To have let that go and end up on the road ultimately shows ineptitude. If it was as common a problem as the lie indicated then MarshRam would have gotten the call saying the component was not safe and needed to be replaced PRIOR to it leaving the shop.

 

[BWL]

Boy you cant catch a brake on your truck

No pun detected

 

[slinghigh]

So, apparently a very common issue with Mopar Calipers iszzzzz.. When you put new brakes and/or rotors on, the seals in the calipers are prone to blow. What this equates to is, you do the said replacement and you might find yourself driving down the road and your brakes don't work shortly after install. This is what I was told by a mechanic and is what happened to me. Luckily I was in my driveway when it went out (rear driver side).

I am reaching out to the community to determine if this is true or not.

I paid a shop to install some new brakes and rotors. After install, I drove home and had it parked for a couple days. Went to drive it again and when I disengaged my e-brake, the e-brake light was still on. It was fully disengaged, so I figured it was merely an adjustment that was needed. Drove about 250 miles over the weekend and parked it for a couple days Next startup and pedal hit the floor, no brakes.

Upon eyeball inspection, I could see my inner guide pin boot was dislodged and mangled in the caliper. But that is a dust boot, so was not causing the leak. There was obviously brake fluid all over the place.

Mechanic shop claims no error in compressing the calipers. Said and I quote, "this is a common issue with brake replacements, especially with Mopars, the seals blow."

There is way more sauce to this story that I may share as needed. But, I need some experienced input (personal experience or from a certified mechanic) that this is in fact true before I waste my time with the whole story.

I paid $55 to keep my core for inspection should I need to proceed to taking this to the next level. So, I really need some intelligent input on this matter as a starting point.

I'll edit the OP with more details, depending on what gives here.

Thanks

never heard of it.....mechanic for 40yrs....didn't use proper caliper compressing tool...don't you think if this was true it would be all over the internet and mopar would be doing damage control...mopar calipers are made by the same company that make them for multible car manufacturers....I cry B.S.