So it's a bit of a complex answer, but the hitch you have on the front I would NOT use for towing the truck behind an RV. They make tow bars that are specific and rated for it, and almost all of them would attach where your front tow hooks would mount, if you have them. You will want the triangular geometry of the tow bar system, NOT a straight-on shot. The straight-on shot will tend to 'wander' (think hay wagons or grain trailers for farmers), where the triangular geometry of the tow bar system will fight that 'wandering' (some even have shocks/dampeners built in).
There are wiring harnesses available to make the lights work on the towed vehicle, or you can buy magnetic ones and route the wire along the truck. The harness has to be tied in correctly to not cause issues but looks a lot cleaner and is a lot easier to hook up - no routing/tying down wires, no chance of dirt getting between your paint and the magnet, etc.
Braking I think is a different issue, if the tow rig is big enough you may not need braking but it's always advisable. There are several ways to do it, I don't know if Ram trucks are capable of getting an electronic signal to activate the brakes, there are devices you can put on the driver's floorboard to activate the brakes, etc.
Now to the really complex part - your truck MAY or MAY NOT already be set up to be towed flat. If it is 2WD I don't think it is capable without reworking the transmission, HOWEVER if you have 4WD, either you will have a 'neutral' button that can be pressed to put your t-case in neutral (no mods to the transmission), OR there is a process to go through to put the t-case in neutral (again, no mods to the transmission). I do not know if ALL 4WD models have this capability, but most should. My wife's has a little button that can be pressed to put the t-case in neutral, but since we don't flat-tow her truck I'm not sure on the process. On her old Ford there was an option in the DIC to start the process, and it gave you step-by-step instructions.