Did Lubegard Biotech kill your hemi tick??

crackerjack1957 · Sep 19, 2023

macrolinux said:
Just an FYI about the hemi-tick. I've had it for years on my 2010 Ram with the 5.7L. I moved a couple years ago into a house that has a very steep incline up the driveway. I have noticed that if I back my truck up the incline and park it that way. Whenever I come back and start it the next day, week, etc.. It doesn't have any tick at all. I can crank up and immediately pull out of the driveway and go about my business and there is no tick. Didn't know if anyone else had noticed something similar. If I park with the front of the truck going up hill, I have the tick for a minute or so after I crank it.

There have been a few post on incline scenarios with ticks/without.
That's why some fill with 7.5 - 8 quarts to get the same effect of less/no tick on start-up

macrolinux · Sep 19, 2023

I haven't thought about putting extra oil in it. I guess that makes sense.

Ramfanski · Oct 31, 2023

Great thread! Thanks @Burla.

I don’t add extra oil, I just add a half quart of Lubegard to a fresh 7 quart fill from the dealership, so it has 7.5 quarts total.

I don’t have many miles. Probably 12000. I did hear some clatter 2 times on starting for about 1-2 seconds

Both times I had started and driven the truck a quarter mile or less and let it cool down overnight beforehand. It says to expect that in the manual. I don’t think it is the hemi tick.

I bought an extended warranty for 10 years/150000 miles. I am not worried.

T. Anders · Feb 4, 2024

I bought my 17 Laramie in 2020 with 22k on it. I noticed some chatter on start up from time to time and became somewhat concerned about it. I found about Lubegard on this forum and decide to try that route. I went with 7 qts of M1 5w30 and 15 ozs. of Lubegard. Almost immediately the engine sounded smoother and it seemed to have eliminated the occasional tick on start up. Interestingly enough on an oil change about a year back, Wallyworld only had M1 5w20, so I bought it figuring it wouldn't make much of a difference. I again started to get an occasional tick on start-up. I then changed back to M1 5w30 and it again ran quieter and eliminated the tick on start-up. Through trial and error it appears that M1 5w30 and lubegard appears to work for my truck. I'm now at 73k and have only heard a tick on the one oil change where I tried 5w20.

JHoward · Feb 4, 2024

T. Anders said:
I bought my 17 Laramie in 2020 with 22k on it. I noticed some chatter on start up from time to time and became somewhat concerned about it. I found about Lubegard on this forum and decide to try that route. I went with 7 qts of M1 5w30 and 15 ozs. of Lubegard. Almost immediately the engine sounded smoother and it seemed to have eliminated the occasional tick on start up. Interestingly enough on an oil change about a year back, Wallyworld only had M1 5w20, so I bought it figuring it wouldn't make much of a difference. I again started to get an occasional tick on start-up. I then changed back to M1 5w30 and it again ran quieter and eliminated the tick on start-up. Through trial and error it appears that M1 5w30 and lubegard appears to work for my truck. I'm now at 73k and have only heard a tick on the one oil change where I tried 5w20.

You've found an oil/oil additive combo that your HEMI likes and there's no need to "experiment" with anything else.

Happy motoring and hammer down!

ramffml · Feb 4, 2024

T. Anders said:
I bought my 17 Laramie in 2020 with 22k on it. I noticed some chatter on start up from time to time and became somewhat concerned about it. I found about Lubegard on this forum and decide to try that route. I went with 7 qts of M1 5w30 and 15 ozs. of Lubegard. Almost immediately the engine sounded smoother and it seemed to have eliminated the occasional tick on start up. Interestingly enough on an oil change about a year back, Wallyworld only had M1 5w20, so I bought it figuring it wouldn't make much of a difference. I again started to get an occasional tick on start-up. I then changed back to M1 5w30 and it again ran quieter and eliminated the tick on start-up. Through trial and error it appears that M1 5w30 and lubegard appears to work for my truck. I'm now at 73k and have only heard a tick on the one oil change where I tried 5w20.

All these different reports are fascinating. My truck I've run a number of different oils and filters, one summer I ran m1 0w-40 with a dose of LG and that didn't make a bit of difference.

How I get the startup rattle; start truck when its cold, drive 5 mins down road, shut it off. Wait for an hour and half+. If it's winter and engine temp never exceeded 50C to 55C, it will rattle on startup like clockwork.

The same oils, if I make sure it gets hot (past 65C) then I have a really good chance that there is no startup rattle.

The oils I've tested include dealer oil, Redline in 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, M1 0w-40 with LG, HPL PP 0w-30, No VII 5w-30, and PCMO 5w-20.
Filters I've tested include mopar/dealer, Fram (small one) and the XG2, and RP 10-48 + RP 20-480.

(Yeah I've been all over the place with my oil and filters, I don't think a single "formula" was repeated consecutively).

None of that has had a single bit of difference that I can tell, but the engine temps are key for me. Just have to get something hot in there though I couldn't tell you what. I have never once shut down the engine when it's at operating temp, come back at any time later, and got startup rattle. It has to be shutdown cold.

Wild one · Feb 4, 2024

ramffml said:
All these different reports are fascinating. My truck I've run a number of different oils and filters, one summer I ran m1 0w-40 with a dose of LG and that didn't make a bit of difference.

How I get the startup rattle; start truck when its cold, drive 5 mins down road, shut it off. Wait for an hour and half+. If it's winter and engine temp never exceeded 50C to 55C, it will rattle on startup like clockwork.

The same oils, if I make sure it gets hot (past 65C) then I have a really good chance that there is no startup rattle.

The oils I've tested include dealer oil, Redline in 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, M1 0w-40 with LG, HPL PP 0w-30, No VII 5w-30, and PCMO 5w-20.
Filters I've tested include mopar/dealer, Fram (small one) and the XG2, and RP 10-48 + RP 20-480.

(Yeah I've been all over the place with my oil and filters, I don't think a single "formula" was repeated consecutively).

None of that has had a single bit of difference that I can tell, but the engine temps are key for me. Just have to get something hot in there though I couldn't tell you what. I have never once shut down the engine when it's at operating temp, come back at any time later, and got startup rattle. It has to be shutdown cold.

Pretty well every Hemi will rattle on the next start-up if it only runs for a few minutes then gets shut down,and it'll do it whether it's hot or cold,you can usually bypass that issue,by revving it up 1500 to 2,000 rpm for a couple seconds before you shut it off

Burla · Feb 4, 2024

Ram Forum's top lube strategies are only successful between 50% to 80% depending on the strategy. It's too bad we all can't revel in the movement from a ticking hemi to a non ticking one, but this is just the easiest route and imo wildly successful for the fact all we are talking about is a different lube. I think a large % of ticks these strategies don't kill are exhaust rattle, when exhaust warms the gaskets expand and hemi's go quiet. Although I am also sure not all the fails are from exhaust, just the fact the difference in lube strategies also proves it isnt just exhaust. If one is 80% successful and the other is 50% successful considering random stats theory, it certainly suggests that one strategy is more successful at what it's target is, as in lube for lifters/cam. I would be doing uoa's, that can also hint towards the answer, if the uoa's are heavy wear, then I would take the next step and start checking lifter travel and lash. If the uoa is clean, well I wouldnt worry it is either exhaust or not that bad. The interesting part of this is even cam/lifter replacement is no guarantee to stop hemi tick, not even proven hemi lifter tick.

alex6666 · Feb 4, 2024

There appears to be two sizes on amazon.....15 and 10 fluid ounces . Any idea how much is required in the standard 5.7 hemi? I have a 17 tradesman (88kkms) that occasionally ticks on cold start....really very rare but i'd be interested in trying this for a bit as I drive very few klicks and mostly short trips so I think its a no brainer based on what Burla says. TIA for the replies.

Burla · Feb 4, 2024

alex6666 said:
There appears to be two sizes on amazon.....15 and 10 fluid ounces . Any idea how much is required in the standard 5.7 hemi? I have a 17 tradesman (88kkms) that occasionally ticks on cold start....really very rare but i'd be interested in trying this for a bit as I drive very few klicks and mostly short trips so I think its a no brainer based on what Burla says. TIA for the replies.

15

Wild one · Feb 4, 2024

alex6666 said:
There appears to be two sizes on amazon.....15 and 10 fluid ounces . Any idea how much is required in the standard 5.7 hemi? I have a 17 tradesman (88kkms) that occasionally ticks on cold start....really very rare but i'd be interested in trying this for a bit as I drive very few klicks and mostly short trips so I think its a no brainer based on what Burla says. TIA for the replies.

These guys are in Edmonton,and so far are the cheapest place in Canada i've found to buy the Engine Protectant. If you buy 12 or more they give you a break on the price,and quite often it's enough to offset the shipping. You're better off phoning them tomorrow morning ,then trying to order it online from them.I phoned them monday afternoon,and it was on my doorstep by noon the next day in Calgary.Being your in Kamloops it might take a couple days though.

Lubegard Products | Edmonton, AB | Can-West Transmission

For quality Lubegard products, Edmonton consumers come to Can-West Transmission Parts. Check out our inventory!

canwesttransmissions.ca

Ramfanski · Feb 5, 2024

Wild one said:
Pretty well every Hemi will rattle on the next start-up if it only runs for a few minutes then gets shut down,and it'll do it whether it's hot or cold,you can usually bypass that issue,by revving it up 1500 to 2,000 rpm for a couple seconds before you shut it off

What is the rattling? I have never heard anything except that it is normal.

Dean2 · Feb 5, 2024

Wild one said:
These guys are in Edmonton,and so far are the cheapest place in Canada i've found to buy the Engine Protectant. If you buy 12 or more they give you a break on the price,and quite often it's enough to offset the shipping. You're better off phoning them tomorrow morning ,then trying to order it online from them.I phoned them monday afternoon,and it was on my doorstep by noon the next day in Calgary.Being your in Kamloops it might take a couple days though.

Lubegard Products | Edmonton, AB | Can-West Transmission

For quality Lubegard products, Edmonton consumers come to Can-West Transmission Parts. Check out our inventory!

canwesttransmissions.ca

Thanks for the info, that is WAY cheaper than anywhere else I have found it. Interestingly, when I searched Lube Guard Bio on the U.S. Amazon site it doesn't come up. Lots of Lubeguard products but not the Bio-Gaurd. It does come up on Amazon.CA but 30 bucks a 10 ounce bottle.

crackerjack1957 · Feb 5, 2024

Dean2 said:
Thanks for the info, that is WAY cheaper than anywhere else I have found it. Interestingly, when I searched Lube Guard Bio on the U.S. Amazon site it doesn't come up. Lots of Lubeguard products but not the Bio-Gaurd. It does come up on Amazon.CA but 30 bucks a 10 ounce bottle.

Must be a Canadian thing........LoL

Dean2 · Feb 5, 2024

crackerjack1957 said:
Must be a Canadian thing........LoL

It has to be, I put in Lubeguard 30901 and nothing comes up. Happens sometimes when they don't have a ship to Canada option. At the 13.05, by the time I include exchange, it is actually cheaper to buy it locally. If you then add postage it is WAY cheaper to get it at the transmission shop here in Edm that Wild posted up. Going to go pickup a case later today.

Interesting enough, I just found 32 ounce bottles on Amazon.ca for 59 bucks each, which works out to 18.45 for t10 ounces, and shipping is free. That is WAY cheaper than their price on the 10 and 15 ounce bottles. I ordered 3, they show 5 left.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B006HI8HYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

noupf · May 20, 2024

I began using the Lubeguard biotech as many in this thread have for the last few oil changes, as I approached 100k miles I wanted to increase the moly bc of what others on here have said about it. Now, my motor has been relatively quiet for all of its life, but figured a little extra moly couldn't hurt. I'm now at 112,000 on my 2015 hemi and ready for another oil change soon.

Now, I realize that Lubeguard wasn't tested specifically in the video below, but I've always felt that most oil additives were just not worth it, mostly snake oil ( no pun intended ). I have no idea what Lubeguard biotech does to the oil itself in terms of degradation, but this guy knows his stuff and I'm likely going to stop using it moving forward. I have a used oil analysis sample here from about 8 months ago while using about 10-11 ounces with a 7 quart fill. The 12/30/22 change at 98,000 miles is when I started using the lueguard. The most recent UOA looks fine, but is it really worth possibly degrading the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum that I use?????? I think I'll just stick with the straight PUP oil on its own from here on out.

Thoughts?

If You LOVE One Of These Additives, DON'T Watch This Video!

Additives, some people swear by them. Others swear at them, so who's right? As a Certified Lubrication Specialist, I reveal the TRUTH about both Fuel and Mot...

www.youtube.com

Burla · May 20, 2024

noupf said:
I began using the Lubeguard biotech as many in this thread have for the last few oil changes, as I approached 100k miles I wanted to increase the moly bc of what others on here have said about it. Now, my motor has been relatively quiet for all of its life, but figured a little extra moly couldn't hurt. I'm now at 112,000 on my 2015 hemi and ready for another oil change soon.

Now, I realize that Lubeguard wasn't tested specifically in the video below, but I've always felt that most oil additives were just not worth it, mostly snake oil ( no pun intended ). I have no idea what Lubeguard biotech does to the oil itself in terms of degradation, but this guy knows his stuff and I'm likely going to stop using it moving forward. I have a used oil analysis sample here from about 8 months ago while using about 10-11 ounces with a 7 quart fill. The 12/30/22 change at 98,000 miles is when I started using the lueguard. The most recent UOA looks fine, but is it really worth possibly degrading the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum that I use?????? I think I'll just stick with the straight PUP oil on its own from here on out.

Thoughts?

If You LOVE One Of These Additives, DON'T Watch This Video!

Additives, some people swear by them. Others swear at them, so who's right? As a Certified Lubrication Specialist, I reveal the TRUTH about both Fuel and Mot...

www.youtube.com

Great Video, but as you can see he cherry picked the known bad additives, and even put fear on a CA additive that is good for tbn retention in non di cars, and ommitted the fact they actually have a di turbo tbn booster bg moa with magnesium instead of CA so no chance of LSPI from the additive. Of course, LSPI can happen with no additive and with di turbo friendly oil as well. Of note moly and zddp are LSPI quenchers instead of antagonizers. So I loved that video, but it is cherry picked.

Let's just ask the question specifically to our application, modern oils have taken additives and viscosity out of their formulas, so how would someone pick an oil with our cam/lifter issues in mind if not for additives? Hemi Tick left alone is worst then most of the downfalls of additives, corrosion aside as you see with chlorine additives that should be banned. If using a high performance oil or a well built additive kills hemi tick, I don't know how you go back to hearing that sewing machine.

noupf · May 20, 2024

Burla said:
Great Video, but as you can see he cherry picked the known bad additives, and even put fear on a CA additive that is good for tbn retention in non di cars, and ommitted the fact they actually have a di turbo tbn booster bg moa with magnesium instead of CA so no chance of LSPI from the additive. Of course, LSPI can happen with no additive and with di turbo friendly oil as well. Of note moly and zddp are LSPI quenchers instead of antagonizers. So I loved that video, but it is cherry picked.

Let's just ask the question specifically to our application, modern oils have taken additives and viscosity out of their formulas, so how would someone pick an oil with our cam/lifter issues in mind if not for additives? Hemi Tick left alone is worst then most of the downfalls of additives, corrosion aside as you see with chlorine additives that should be banned. If using a high performance oil or a well built additive kills hemi tick, I don't know how you go back to hearing that sewing machine.

Good take and I agree with much of what you said, and I know you know your stuff too when it comes to oils and additives.. Would be nice to have had the lubeguard tested to see though. I was not aware of the good vs bad in the video, but do recognize many of them from store shelves.

Burla · May 20, 2024

noupf said:
Good take and I agree with much of what you said, and I know you know your stuff too when it comes to oils and additives.. Would be nice to have had the lubeguard tested to see though. I was not aware of the good vs bad in the video, but do recognize many of them from store shelves.

I would say for sure, there are very few beneficial additives, and in an engine that doesn't have any issues, I'm not sure I'd use any of them, except like he said combustion chamber cleaners in the gas.

alex6666 · May 21, 2024

FWIW just used lubeguard in my 1500 oil change, regular 5/20. Was getting rare occasional tick on start up before......rarely and went away quick. No tick on start up yet with the lubeguard but its warm out and i just started using it....guess the test will be when its colder. What i did notice was how smooth the engine seemed to run at highway speeds...was noticeable to me. I guess my ignorant take on the issue is the additive, 35 bucks, more beneficial than just changing the oil at an earlier interval? Not sure. my last change was about 4500 mi and i think it felt like it was past time to me. My plan is to use the other bottle of lubetech on my next change and go through the winter with it and see.....it gets cold up here in kamloops (-20 to -40). A little concerning to think the additive could be more harm than good. My Buddhist friends say "beware the unexpected consequences of a kind act"

Did Lubegard Biotech kill your hemi tick??

Did Lubegard Biotech kill your hemi tick?

Yes, lubegard killed that tick

No, lubegard didn't kill tick, yet

Lubegard made hemi tick noticeably better not 100% though

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