07 Ram 1500 4.7L Flex - Crank, but no start after battery swap

[ThirdGenMopar]

Issue:
-swapped battery on truck that worked fine before(battery was shot)
-motor cranks but will not fire

Details:
-truck ran perfectly fine 5 minutes before swap as well as multiple times throughout the past month(battery was on a charger when needed as well as the battery being from 2019)
-instrument cluster works fine - nothing strange like flickering/etc
-rpm gauge moves during crank (as far as I understand, that means the crank sensor is working)
-no red lights for security
-no alarm lights
-radio works fine
-headlights work fine
-all accessories work fine
-3 codes from a check engine light: failure to communicate with HVAC, failure to communicate with radio, failure to communicate with security module
-fuel is getting to the plugs
-no fuses blown
-pulled TIPM and tore it down: nothing corroded nor burned/damaged in any way on the board
-there was some green corrosion on the metal clip connector outside of the TIPM where it connects but it did NOT run inside at all
-not equipped with WCM(regular analogue chipped key; manual hand pulled locks on doors/hand roller windows/etc)
-if key left in ignition(not turned in any direction), you can hear a click every few seconds from somewhere under the battery

Not sure what I did wrong. I have pulled the old battery many times over the years without any issues except losing the clock. Currently, I do have the TIPM pulled completely out of the truck. I have the positive and negative terminals zipped together so they touch for over 24 hours. Will see if this TIPM hard reset works. Another thing I want to try this weekend is pulling a coil and using a tester to see if the truck is sending spark(I assume it is not hence why the truck will not start).

I had it parked for a while due to a control arm bracket rusting away. That has since been repaired properly which meant it was time to get the truck on the road again. Again, the TIPM visually looks great. No corrosion in the box, male prongs, female plugs, etc. That clip that comes outside the box had green corrosion but only where the screw/nut was.

The only other weird thing I can think of was the far right of the OBD II port had green corrosion - the final slot. The OBD II connects \========/ this way if you want to visualize it and not sideways or /=======\. The last slot at the bottom had some green crust. I did clean it off and my OBD II works fine, so not sure what is going on there.

Just looking for any tips or ideas at this point. Hate the junk the truck since it has been running very well.

 

[ThirdGenMopar]

Update to this:
Bummed that no one offered any insight into what I could do.

-there is spark at the plugs(I got popped by it. Was a fun time.)
-fuel is not getting to the plugs(I pulled a plug and turned it over. I also turned it over for a while and then checked plugs - all dry.)
-fuel gets to the rails but apparently is being prevented from going through the rails
-tried a locksmith(PCM/WCM resets, removal of all keys, etc etc. Keys are still read just fine. No security lights.)
-already tried all the weird battery tricks mentioned on the net

So, that's where I am. I don't really know what else to try beyond replacing the ECM I guess. A tow would already cost me about $100 on top of a diagnosis fee. That is to a shop a few miles away. A tow to a dealer would cost me about $200(the woes of living more rural).

 

[jws123]

Its almost never the ECM not syaing its impossible tho.
Is it throwing any codes? Did you check crank/cam sensors? also if ou spray some starting fluid down the intake does it fire? you could use a noid light to see if the injectors are getting a pulse. Also have you checked fuel pressure their may be some getting to the rail but could be low pressure.

 

[jws123]

Just re read your post when you had the control arm bracket fixed I assume welded did someone disconnect the battery first? welding with a connected battery is a big no no and was that before or after the battery swap.

 

[ThirdGenMopar]

Just re read your post when you had the control arm bracket fixed I assume welded did someone disconnect the battery first? welding with a connected battery is a big no no and was that before or after the battery swap.

I assume the person did the weld steps properly. If they didn't then they didn't. Not worth getting upset over it. The truck was running on the old battery after the job just needed an alignment. The no start but cranks happened literally after I swapped from the 2017 battery to a brand new battery. I changed the battery since it needed a charge if the truck sat for just a couple days without being turned on.

As to the question about codes - still just a failure to communicate as I listed in the original post.