TIPM issue ‘12 ram 1500 5.7

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Jeepdreamer

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Hi all,
I’m in kinda a pickle so I’m looking for advice. I’m just coming back from a deployment and will need my truck once I get released and head home to pick it up.
It’s a 2012 1500 4x4 5.7 4 door.
Before I deployed it ran and drove fine, only a few little issues like having to replace the master window switch control in the drivers door. Nothing big. Anyhoo…. The wife has been driving it once a week to take the dogs places and keep the truck from sitting. Then one day she went out, hit the fob and it had a crank, no start. Tried it a few times then tried the other fob. Still nothing. She called our neighbor and he came over, looked things over and put the key in and it started right up. She was mad because she felt stupid. Next week she had the same thing happen so she tries the key in the ignition, no luck. Crank and no start. Tried the other key, fired up. So off she goes with the dogs but after dropping them off, the truck does it again. This time no crank or start. Call the neighbor and he comes to look. Says your battery is dead and the neutral cable looks ready for replacement. They jump it and get it home with more thanks to him for helping.
He comes by a couple days later with a new battery and cable, swaps them out, problem solved, right? Nope. Wife gets a couple weeks of no issues then gets stranded again. The crank, no start is back. At this point she’s far from happy and called me in the middle of my night overseas to cuss me out. lol. Convinced her to get the neighbor to get it to run and take it to a shop he actually trusts. Shop keeps it a week and could never get it to replicate the issue, started every time, cold, hot, after driving, etc. ok… So paid him for the effort and took it home.
Next week she goes to start it and nothing. No crank or start. Have her FaceTime me so I can see and there is nothing. No lights, gauge movement, nothing. Battery (the new one) is dead again. FML.
So what I’m looking for is advice from those who’ve played this Tipm game.
I’m thinking one of two possibilities.
The crank/no start could be the Tipm not turning on the fuel pump. It always fielded up in about a second when it isn’t having a problem. The other thought is it isn’t turning off the fuel pump when she parks it (she wouldn’t know to recognize it) which is killing the battery. Does that sound logical? And does that fuel pump bypass from MAKs sound like an actual fix?
Not being there to dig into diagnostics makes this hard so I’m trying to benchelrace my way through it before I get home.
The only other thing I can think of is the Tipm isn’t telling the alternator to charge the battery but I would think if that happened while she was driving it she would have seen a CEL and the voltage gauge would read zero. No?
I don’t know enough about the Tipm and I really will only have a very small window of time to deal with getting the truck running.
Any help and advice would be Very Much APPRECIATED!! Fire away! Thanks!
 

Dean2

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I would love to help, but realistically, with the detailed info you provided, there are quite a few potential causes. First step is to put an OBD code reader on it and pull all codes. Then work from there. If you are going to be really short on time, best bet would be to take it to a well trusted independent repair shop and have them track it down for you. I know you already tried this but realistically, until they can replicate the issue, it will be very hard to isolate the cause. Something is drawing the battery down, but not every time.

The one thing you can try is have her put it on a charger every night. If it always starts the next day, that eliminates a whole raft of things, you just have to figure out what is sporadically flattening the battery. Alternators work or they don't, they rarely fail sporadically. Best of luck.
 
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RamDiver

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I agree with everything Dean contributed. A battery maintainer/trickle charger is a useful item to own when you're not daily driving the truck. I'm retired and charge mine periodically.

Another item worth owning would be a jump pack. Have the helpful neighbour teach your wife how to use it, and she regains her independence when using the truck. That is worth its weight in gold. :cool:



After watching the above video, I bought a GooLoo GP4000 on sale at Walmart.
I have yet to use it, but it holds a charge better than the NOCO GB-40.
I bought a NOCO GB-40 last year, but wasn't overly impressed with it while boosting my lawn tractor.

.
 
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OP
J

Jeepdreamer

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Thanks guys! Yes, I agree with charging, pulling codes, and making the wife more self-reliant.
It’s just frustrating because all of this is within my skills to troubleshoot if I have the time. Hate to pay folks to poke around just like I’m capable of doing for free. Haha.
I’m going to reach out to a neighbor and see if he can put my pulse charger on it and take a reading. Then come back the following day and see if there is any significant discharge. I know there isn’t anything that would cause it unnaturally (stero/amp or gadgets). If he can charge it enough to pull codes I should be able to narrow it down some.
As a related question; the fuel pump stuff is one aspect. I highly doubt the alternator went bad so going off that presumption, how could the Tipm relate to the alternator not charging the battery if that’s what’s happening? Would a test of the alternator output at the alternator (if I get it running) help indicate it’s a Tipm/relay/wiring issue?
 

Dean2

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The charge from the alternator goes direct to the battery. The TIPM has nothing to do with the alternator charging the battery. You should easily be able to measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Your dash display for volts should also tell you if the output is correct. Should be between 14.2 and 15.2 depending on rpm and battery charge level.
 

Burla

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In the future try and just get to the point without the long story, you Irish? It's hard to compartmentalize the issue with the essay you decided to write. Have you seen this? It is kinda the bible on TIPM bypass and fuel pump.


In the first thing you wrote you fixed some issues master switch but only listed one, what were the other issues you fixed? Those kinds of items can be TIPM.

You can also bypass win module if you don't feel like testing voltages. It sounds like it is sending power to starter, but this can be a suspect with intermittent starting issues.


Finally, if you narrow down to TIPM, this guy is next level on how dyi fix. Tons of patience is needed, but it also shows how and why this happens..


.
 
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Hagar1

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Hi all,
I’m in kinda a pickle so I’m looking for advice. I’m just coming back from a deployment and will need my truck once I get released and head home to pick it up.
It’s a 2012 1500 4x4 5.7 4 door.
Before I deployed it ran and drove fine, only a few little issues like having to replace the master window switch control in the drivers door. Nothing big. Anyhoo…. The wife has been driving it once a week to take the dogs places and keep the truck from sitting. Then one day she went out, hit the fob and it had a crank, no start. Tried it a few times then tried the other fob. Still nothing. She called our neighbor and he came over, looked things over and put the key in and it started right up. She was mad because she felt stupid. Next week she had the same thing happen so she tries the key in the ignition, no luck. Crank and no start. Tried the other key, fired up. So off she goes with the dogs but after dropping them off, the truck does it again. This time no crank or start. Call the neighbor and he comes to look. Says your battery is dead and the neutral cable looks ready for replacement. They jump it and get it home with more thanks to him for helping.
He comes by a couple days later with a new battery and cable, swaps them out, problem solved, right? Nope. Wife gets a couple weeks of no issues then gets stranded again. The crank, no start is back. At this point she’s far from happy and called me in the middle of my night overseas to cuss me out. lol. Convinced her to get the neighbor to get it to run and take it to a shop he actually trusts. Shop keeps it a week and could never get it to replicate the issue, started every time, cold, hot, after driving, etc. ok… So paid him for the effort and took it home.
Next week she goes to start it and nothing. No crank or start. Have her FaceTime me so I can see and there is nothing. No lights, gauge movement, nothing. Battery (the new one) is dead again. FML.
So what I’m looking for is advice from those who’ve played this Tipm game.
I’m thinking one of two possibilities.
The crank/no start could be the Tipm not turning on the fuel pump. It always fielded up in about a second when it isn’t having a problem. The other thought is it isn’t turning off the fuel pump when she parks it (she wouldn’t know to recognize it) which is killing the battery. Does that sound logical? And does that fuel pump bypass from MAKs sound like an actual fix?
Not being there to dig into diagnostics makes this hard so I’m trying to benchelrace my way through it before I get home.
Th MAKSe only other thing I can think of is the Tipm isn’t telling the alternator to charge the battery but I would think if that happened while she was driving it she would have seen a CEL and the voltage gauge would read zero. No?
I don’t know enough about the Tipm and I really will only have a very small window of time to deal with getting the truck running.
Any help and advice would be Very Much APPRECIATED!! Fire away! Thanks!
I just went through something similar. You probably have some corrosion in the tipm. MAKS can probably help you.
 

Jeepwalker

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I would clear the codes and re-check after a coupe days. Those could be errant codes from before the battery, or right after...

Start with common and easy things first b/c that's what problems usually turn out to be. Check and push down all the fuses and relays in the fuse box. Sometimes they mysteriously work 'up' on these trucks. I think there's also a fuel pump relay at the fuse box. Check that ...maybe swap the rely with another if there is...sorry I'm forgetting if there is. Corrosion on the TIPM connector is mostly a rust-belt thing... but if your truck was from up north?? IDK about KY if corrosion is as big of factor there. If all other 'fix' attempts don't point to anything, the connnector pins are worth a look. But I would focus on other things first. At the minium you might just gently lift up/down on the big *** of cables below your fusebox. Don't get rough which might damage solder joints on the TIPM.

Then ...If the battery and alternator check out fine on a load test (go to a part store for a check). Then, there is the possibility of a fuel issue. The fact it's cranking and not starting kind of rules out a bad battery/charging system, but you gotta go through each 'check'. But onto fuel ...lack of 'proof' of fuel can cause cranking but no start issue. Could be a bad or failing fuel pressure regulator (common). Look that up on Youtube. Possible a pump too ...but best to check pressures first and listen that it's running (ear next to tank). I'd tend to go with the regulator first. Not an uncommon thing on these trucks and easier than dropping the tank. Yes, could be the winmodule possibly. Wiggle the key as you attempt to start it. If it 'starts' or run on and doesn't sound quite right. Stop and try again. If it eventually starts it's likely the result of dirty contacts in the WIN module (look how to clean on youtube). Tht's a common issue too.

There was also a deal on these trucks where the fuel pump relay on the TIPM would wear out prematurely. OR, there would be cold solder joints on the board. 2012 was the year they said they fixed that. But who knows?? What would happen is the tk would crank and crank but not start. If you are crafty you could actually remove the relay from the TIPM and buy a replacement off ebay (type in Ram fuel pump relay...and it should come up), and solder a new relay onto the board. Lot cheaper than a new TIPM. I bought new TIPM relays for my truck (also 2012) but so far haven't needed them. Or ...better yet, just to 'see', you could try a fuel pump bypass cable...which is what a lot of guys do. Even parts stores sell them. HERE. The fact they are avail tells you how much of an issue it was. The cable would be the quick and cheap way to test and rule out a TIPM relay problem.

So there you go. Just some things off the top of my head... Let us know what the magic 'fix' turns out to be!!

:waytogo:
 
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Wild one

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Buy yourself one of these old school testers and load test the battery yourself,they're a far better load tester then what your local autoparts place will use.20 bucks shouldn't break the bank,and odds are you'll use it alot more often then you think.

 

ESPMan01

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Definitely sounds like a TIPM issue. The fuel pump relay is on the INSIDE of the TIPM, and fails. Very often. And worse yet, it can fail open or closed. If it fails open, no power to the fuel pump. If it fails closed, it allows parasitic draw to the fuel pump, draining your battery overnight, which sounds like your issue given the initial crank no start condition. I'm on the tail end of a very similar situation. 2015 2500 5.7L crank no start, bad TIPM, which nuked connector C5 on the bottom and the fuel pump itself. MAKS has rebuilt TIPM's for about $150 less than OEM, and they have a one year warranty. Also, you can get a bypass cable from https://verticalvisions.com/ that takes the fuel pump relay out of the equation. Start with checking for power and ground at the fuel pump, and work your way back from there.
 

Bob Horowski

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Not being impressed with ANY noco product is very disturbing to me. I have ALWAYS been more than satisfied with any of their products, just my personal experience.
 

Jeepwalker

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To distill down what I said above, If it were my truck, if it's cranking and sounds 'normal' when cranking: I would start with the fuel.

Can you hear the pump come on with key-on, with your ear to the tank (or near it) before and while cranking? If no, then check voltage at the pump (or fuse). Then the pump itself if there is voltage. Ideally check Fuel pressure with a tester (parts stores rent them). If no fuel pump voltage than ya gotta look at the fuse or relays (incl the possibility of the TIPM relay). Buy a relay bypass cable with even a local parts store should have (as linked above). If it's the TIPM relay, and you install the bypass cable, you should be able to hear the fuel pump come on upon key-on. If you don't then go back to de-bugging the fuel pump issue. Might be a failed pump??

If yes on the pump sound, ideally check fuel pressures. Or...I would look into replacing the fuel press regulator (do a Y/T lookup). Those do fail and cause the same cranking -> no-start issue. Again, there are a bunch of Youtube videos on them. Not too difficult to replace. At your truck's age it's not going to hurt to replace it even if it's not the ultimate problem. At least you ruled it out.

If it doesn't sound 'normal' when cranking, or delays cranking or runs on as you attempt to start ... then look at the WIN module which is behind the key (the part the key goes into). Again lot of Youtube videos on them. Those have been plaguing Chrysler cars & minivans for ages.



:waytogo:
 
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Hagar1

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Definitely sounds like a TIPM issue. The fuel pump relay is on the INSIDE of the TIPM, and fails. Very often. And worse yet, it can fail open or closed. If it fails open, no power to the fuel pump. If it fails closed, it allows parasitic draw to the fuel pump, draining your battery overnight, which sounds like your issue given the initial crank no start condition. I'm on the tail end of a very similar situation. 2015 2500 5.7L crank no start, bad TIPM, which nuked connector C5 on the bottom and the fuel pump itself. MAKS has rebuilt TIPM's for about $150 less than OEM, and they have a one year warranty. Also, you can get a bypass cable from https://verticalvisions.com/ that takes the fuel pump relay out of the equation. Start with checking for power and ground at the fuel pump, and work your way back from there.
There was a recall for some Stellantis vehicles a few years back. It involved installing a relay to bypass the failed relay built in to the TIPM. The kit is available on Amazon for a reasonable price. The only flaw with the kit, it doesn't have instructions with it. If you by the kit from a dealer, it comes with instructions but it also comes with a hefty price tag. I put the kit into mine even though I had my TIPM repaired. It is fairly easy to install.
 

Bighorn_Brown

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In the future try and just get to the point without the long story, you Irish? It's hard to compartmentalize the issue with the essay you decided to write. Have you seen this? It is kinda the bible on TIPM bypass and fuel pump.


In the first thing you wrote you fixed some issues master switch but only listed one, what were the other issues you fixed? Those kinds of items can be TIPM.

You can also bypass win module if you don't feel like testing voltages. It sounds like it is sending power to starter, but this can be a suspect with intermittent starting issues.


Finally, if you narrow down to TIPM, this guy is next level on how dyi fix. Tons of patience is needed, but it also shows how and why this happens..


.
I think the dog is wired to that pushbutton switch in that second video... Hahahaha
 
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