2011 1500 no start, acting wired

[CostaRam]

So,
i pulled my 2011 1500 5.7l out of the storage after 6 months of no use and battery disconnected.
Battery had a solar panel charger attached and car fired right up and voltage gauge showed usual half (12 o'clock position)
I used it driving for some miles, went to groceries shop, etc, car was fine.
A bit of rough ideling when firing up, but driving fine.
Yesterday morning i went having breakfast and on the way there i noticed that the truck is stuck in 4th gear even if selector was in D.
When after breakfast i wanted to drive home and rough running was worse and still stuck in 4th gear.
I noticed also that the gear number on the evic was on or off and there where also some problems with the radio rebooting spontaneously (but this is a old problem).
Then the truck lost all power and almost died but i made it to drive on the side of the road, truck died and did not started anymore.

Symptoms are:
- Turning the key to start position the radio will switch off and starter will not turn
- radio showed "Insert Security Key" screen, not sure if this relies to radio or immobilizer
- waiting a hour or two the engine will fire up but die immediatly
- red round light blinking is continously blinking
- locking/unlocking doors don't change anything and is working fine
- trailer brake disconnected warning message
- trailer brake control box is blinking
- battery gauge show half way between 1/4 and half (but was before always on half)
- battery has 12.4V
- attaching other car with jumper cables and running engine did not help
- voltage on the entrance of the fuse box is 12.4V
- on the green line showing the gears, the R is in red, but i cant remember how it was before
- headlights are bright, cabin lights too and don't dim while turning key to start
- clicking sound of a few relays in the fuse box when ignition is on or turning key to start
- jumped negative terminal to chassis, problem persist


So i thought that battery went bad, bough a new one, installed it and truck fired up but died immediately and then will not turn over again
Checked fuses and they seem to be fine
Had the truck hauled home and charged the battery over night till full and truck for 12 hours without battery connected.
Installed battery this morning, still same problem as above, starter will not turn
Voltage gauge showed a little more but still not in the center as normal

I am still convinced that the problem is either:
- bad voltage for ECU and/or bus and this can lead also to the problems below
- the red blinking light show that immobilizer is in and this avoid starting the engine
- the red R means that the ECE think gear is in R and this block starting the engine

is there a voltage regulator or similar device feeding the power to the dashboard/radio/bus/ECU
is there a way to measure voltage on the bus/ignition key/ignition relay
Is there a way to reset the ECU completely?

I'm in Costa Rica, dealership is 60 miles away and i would like to pay big $$$ for a simple fix i could do.

Thanks so much for your help!

Chris

 

[Tach_tech]

I would be checking for any codes with a good scan tool. Sounds like either a key issue or maybe the WCM. Could be a lot of things but a scan tool will help narrow it down.

 

[CostaRam]

DANG! I forgot to mention, no ODB codes are readable as both of my ODB scanners fail to connecto to the engine.
I can connect to the dongle but no communication with the engine/ecu's is possible as i get a error "communication failed"
The other is a cable version ODB scanner who alwaysw worked and still no communication possible.
Chris

 

[Tach_tech]

In that case I’d be checking power and grounds to the PCM.

 

[Mike Flea]

I just purchased a 2010 a month ago, from a Ford Dealer, and had a similar problem. Call a Dodge dealer and describe to them what it's doing, and they may be able to tell you how to correct it. It's a Fail Safe mode that the truck goes into when the battery is disconnected. Turns out, the dealer used a Jump-Pak to get it started because the battery was dead. Before I made the purchase, I took it out on a test drive, and the number 4 was on the display, and I reasoned it to be a problem with the tranny, that it was stuck in 4th. I left the dealer to go see another truck, and an hour later the first dealer called me back and said they corrected the problem, he didn't say how, but that after they installed a new battery, and let it sit for an hour, the computer reset the FailSafe, and everything was working as it should.

I went back, took it for a test drive, everything worked fine, and I purchased the truck. the first week I had the truck, every 2 days I had to reset the time on the radio, because it would be 4 to 6 hours slow. This eventually cleared up on its own by the second week and now it keeps perfect time. However, there was another issue that I had to have fixed. Turns out, the previous owner had installed an aftermarket remote start, that was making all the idiot lights on the dashboard occasionally come on. So it got annoying because every time the check engine or TPMS lights come on, they "ding". Whoever installed the remote start must've had their head-up-their-ass, because the CDJ dealer I go to had to replace 2-3 ft of wire in each direction wherever the taps were made in the wireloom, I also had them remove that remote start. Oh, and I told my local dealer about what happened at the Ford dealer, and he agreed that there is that FailSafe when the battery is disconnected or dead. Supposedly it's there so it makes it harder for someone to steal the truck.

Trucks been running well for the last 3 weeks, no more electrical issues.

 

[Tach_tech]

There is no failsafe mode when the battery is disconnected then re-connected. We disconnect batteries all the time at my dealer for various repairs, and there is nothing special to do when connecting it.

Displaying 4 in the cluster after being boosted is likely due to low battery voltage, hence why it was boosted. Low battery voltage will cause all kinds of weird issues.

 

[Mike Flea]

That's cool, I'm just saying what was told to me


Stupid computer controlled trucks...I shoulda kept my '03, it never had issues like this

 

[CostaRam]

In that case I’d be checking power and grounds to the PCM.

Tach_tech
can you tell me where i can check bus/pcm voltage and grounding? Fuse box show 12.3V and i have no idea where to check bus voltage.

Thanks so much!

Chris

 

[CostaRam]

I just purchased a 2010 a month ago, from a Ford Dealer, and had a similar problem. Call a Dodge dealer and describe to them what it's doing, and they may be able to tell you how to correct it. It's a Fail Safe mode that the truck goes into when the battery is disconnected. Turns out, the dealer used a Jump-Pak to get it started because the battery was dead. Before I made the purchase, I took it out on a test drive, and the number 4 was on the display, and I reasoned it to be a problem with the tranny, that it was stuck in 4th. I left the dealer to go see another truck, and an hour later the first dealer called me back and said they corrected the problem, he didn't say how, but that after they installed a new battery, and let it sit for an hour, the computer reset the FailSafe, and everything was working as it should.

I went back, took it for a test drive, everything worked fine, and I purchased the truck. the first week I had the truck, every 2 days I had to reset the time on the radio, because it would be 4 to 6 hours slow. This eventually cleared up on its own by the second week and now it keeps perfect time. However, there was another issue that I had to have fixed. Turns out, the previous owner had installed an aftermarket remote start, that was making all the idiot lights on the dashboard occasionally come on. So it got annoying because every time the check engine or TPMS lights come on, they "ding". Whoever installed the remote start must've had their head-up-their-ass, because the CDJ dealer I go to had to replace 2-3 ft of wire in each direction wherever the taps were made in the wireloom, I also had them remove that remote start. Oh, and I told my local dealer about what happened at the Ford dealer, and he agreed that there is that FailSafe when the battery is disconnected or dead. Supposedly it's there so it makes it harder for someone to steal the truck.

Trucks been running well for the last 3 weeks, no more electrical issues.

truck was 6 months with battery disconnected
I connected battery and truck fired up and run
next day issues started
I put new battery in, started and died immediately, put also other car with jumper cables and still, turning key will not turn starter motor
Fully loaded battery will not start either

Fail safe mode makes sense, as he will turn over and start after sitting for 1-3 hours with battery connected but die immediately.
Red light immobilizer light is blinking steady so i guess immobilizer is blocking starter motor
Voltage gauge is still at 11 o'clock position, before it was alwyxs at 12 o'clock

my truck show the same symptoms as yours but i can't solve it with different batteries and battery seems to be ok as lights are not dim.

It seems that bus/pcm/ecu is low or ground bad as this wired phantom errors are usually a sign of low ecu voltage.

However, thanks for your reply!

Chris

PS: I have original remote start (i guess) as i can start it with original remote control

 

[CostaRam]

Update:
i went out and started the truck after he was sitting 24 hours with battery connected.
truck fired right up and was running smooth, then started running rough and died.
Could start it again and still running rough could keep it running.
Voltage raised when engine was running till gauge showed right 12 o'clock position
Coud connect odb scanner and codes where severals,
all 4 o2 sensors voltage heigh
voltage low
Shift Solenoid error
etc

I tried to drive the truck, but as it looks tranny is still in 4th gear, sometimes #4 is shown on EVIC, sometimes not.

As Engine warmed up and as far i noticed when radiator cooling fan started voltage droped and engine died and same problem again, no start

O2 sensor problems where same last year after 6 months of no use, but went away after some time.
I am not sure if the o2 sensors are the problem or still the low voltage not making them work right thus throwing codes

Chris

 

[jws123]

Wiggle your ignition switch see if anything happens mine wore out from heavy keys and truck was doin all kinds of funny ****.

 

[CostaRam]

Thanks JWS123, i will try that.
Sometimes electrical problems of modern cars are related to something completely different....
Chris

 

[RammerHarder]

Go out under the hood and pull the fuse box (drivers side fender area) up and out... look for wiring being chewed by rodents from storage.
That is what happened to me... $700 later, truck fixed. Worth a look anyways... if wiring is ok, you can rule that out.

 

[indept]

^^^^^^ This. Check all harnesses under the hood. Rodents like the taste of some insulation.

 

[RammerHarder]

I think the rodents got`em! Haven`t heard anything from him since! Where`s the popcorn?!?!?!

 

[CostaRam]

Well,
i checked the cables and connectors and could not find any eaten or corroded things.
I will check the fusce box from below what i diid not checked, but i fear it's ok as well.
basically it is the same problem i had last year whan i started the truck after 6 months of storage.
Ghost errors and during some weeks of use they slowly go away one after the other.
It looks to me that the engine need to relearn everything after such a long time without battery power and this may lead to bad working capacitators in the ECU.
Using the car for some times will charge them slowly and the engine relearn the data would explain the self-healing behaviour of my truck.

So i started to use the truck and installed a third battery, this time a new LTH AGM battery.
From the moment the AGM battery was installed the errors with the oxygen sensors and low pcm voltage went away immediately.
Unfortunately the problem with the transmission persists and is locked in 4th gear, what should be limp mode.
As i guessed i drove the truck for some short trips and yesterday morning the tranny was acting normal for about 5 miles, then tranny went again in limp mode.
Codes are always the same:
P0750 Shift Solenoid "A"
P0883 TCM Power Input Signal High

Now after i park the car for more than approx 30 minutes the tranny shifts normal, sometimes for a minute, sometimes for half mile and then goes in limp mode.
This let me belive that the Solenoid is ok and that the problem is the cables or the the TCM (what is inside the ECU afaik)

I will try to drive the car today as well to check if this problem occurs when trans temp reaches 140°F, that would explain why the tranny is working normal in the mornings or after a longer parking.

Chris

 

[CostaRam]

Well, another update from today:
After a half mile and tranny oil temp of 120°F the tranny went in 4th limp mode and throw the codes 0750 and P0883 as usual.
Went in a shop for half hour and when i cam back tranny was normal but again after half mile switched in 4th gear limp mode.
So i drove the 2 miles to the dive operation in 4th gear and parked the car for about 2 hours.
When we left for lunch my employee asked me why i dont switch immediately in manual mode before limp mode kicks in, what i never did before as
until a few days i could not switch gears in manual mode, so i tried that.
I was able to change gears manually and if i used 5th gear tranny was shifting gears normally so i continued to dive the car for several trips
around in town and tranny was working normal while in manual mode 3/4/5th gear and shifting normal.
When i came home i cleared the codes and discovered that only the P0750 code was present, the others had disappeared.
So i cleard the code and bingo, no codes anymore!
Tomorrow i will drive the truck with tranny in D position to see if the problem is still there if tranny is in D or if itr went away magically and without any repair.
Chris

 

[joshuaeb09]

Well, another update from today:
After a half mile and tranny oil temp of 120°F the tranny went in 4th limp mode and throw the codes 0750 and P0883 as usual.
Went in a shop for half hour and when i cam back tranny was normal but again after half mile switched in 4th gear limp mode.
So i drove the 2 miles to the dive operation in 4th gear and parked the car for about 2 hours.
When we left for lunch my employee asked me why i dont switch immediately in manual mode before limp mode kicks in, what i never did before as
until a few days i could not switch gears in manual mode, so i tried that.
I was able to change gears manually and if i used 5th gear tranny was shifting gears normally so i continued to dive the car for several trips
around in town and tranny was working normal while in manual mode 3/4/5th gear and shifting normal.
When i came home i cleared the codes and discovered that only the P0750 code was present, the others had disappeared.
So i cleard the code and bingo, no codes anymore!
Tomorrow i will drive the truck with tranny in D position to see if the problem is still there if tranny is in D or if itr went away magically and without any repair.
Chris

Sounds like it might have needed to get over itself after being full discharged and possibly having a dud battery or two. In the future I would suggest storing the way most people I know store modern vehicles. With something like a CTEK or PulseTech battery maintainer with the battery remaining in the truck. I've seen a few people either install the maintainer onboard the vehicle and just plug in or install some quick connections somewhere convenient that they can use to quickly connect the maintainer when its time for storage. I've also heard positive things about the PulseTech solar panel maintainers though some vendors that claim they work really well to keep all the farm equipment around here in good shape electrically during the off season.

 

[CostaRam]

Yes, that is what i will do for next 6 storage months as last test if the problems will disappear.


However, i own 6 cars and 3 boats and evey six months i have to wintereize some of them for another 6 months and none of this cars/boats i showing this troubles.
All fire right up and just run, only my RAM is having this problems and i could not find any reference in the owner manual to NOT disconnect the battery.
I have 2 solar chargers for the batteries but they are disconnected, and in Italy i have NOCO G3500 trickle chargers and they work well,
bust as the cars are stored outside i have them and tha batteries inside the basement.

I also switched to AGM batteries as i can store them without any damage without charging them for the 6 months, while wet lead acid batteries die usually,
and i bought usually every year at least 3 or for of them. From when i switched to Optimas i don't have this problem anymore.

Chris

 

[CostaRam]

Drove yesterday to 30mile far town with tranny in manual 5th gear.
truck was running perfect, tranny was shifting as usuall, all fine, till ...
approx 10 miles later thranny went again in 4th gear and no shifting anymore and Check Engine light came on.
Left Truck overnight with battery connected and today tranny was acting normal in manual 5th gear for approx 1 mile then went back in 4th gear.
Disconnecting the battery reset the ECU/TCM and i could drive again in manual mode 5th gear, but only for a few hundred yards then switched to 4th gear.
Once the tranny oil temp showed no data, while the other times after disconnect oil temp was 169°F
Shifting to 4th gear seems to not be connected to tranny oil temp

Today i am not able to connect either one of both my code readers, both show "no communication", but this happend already other times

I checkd almost all cables and plugs without finding any anomalies.

This **** drives me crazy and i don't wanna change solenoid pack if the problem is computer/bus related as i still get
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0882 T CM Power Input Signal High


Chris