2012 6.7L won't shut down

[LAkers]

Hi everyone, I'm new here and a fairly new Ram diesel owner. I have had the truck for a couple of years and my problems have been few. I recently replaced the WIN module due to the intermittent shut off and FOB position starting problem. Now for my recent problem, I was headed to the river to go fishing and stopped to fuel up the boat. When I went to shut the truck off, it just kept running. All off the normal things happened when I shut off the key, all the electronics and lights went off. But the engine just kept on running with the FOB in my pocket and nowhere near the truck. We proceeded to disconnect the negative cables from both batteries, but the engine kept on running. Next we began pulling fuses one at a time. It turns out that removing a 20 amp fuse caused the engine to shut down. Fuse # M15 which my manual says is for: Power Seat Module(s)/Audio Telematics/Daytime Running Lights Relay/Instrument Cluster/ Transfer Case Module... Anyone ever heard of such a problem or have any idea where to start looking for the problem. Oh yea, this problem started before I changed the WIN, that was my first guess at the root cause of the problem. Truck is a 2012 Ram 2500, 4X4, Auto, 6.7L Diesel, Mega cab with 208K miles. It seems to work OK when I leave this fuse out, at least it starts and shuts off. Thanks in advance for any help. Larry

 

[TheEnder]

Hi everyone, I'm new here and a fairly new Ram diesel owner. I have had the truck for a couple of years and my problems have been few. I recently replaced the WIN module due to the intermittent shut off and FOB position starting problem. Now for my recent problem, I was headed to the river to go fishing and stopped to fuel up the boat. When I went to shut the truck off, it just kept running. All off the normal things happened when I shut off the key, all the electronics and lights went off. But the engine just kept on running with the FOB in my pocket and nowhere near the truck. We proceeded to disconnect the negative cables from both batteries, but the engine kept on running. Next we began pulling fuses one at a time. It turns out that removing a 20 amp fuse caused the engine to shut down. Fuse # M15 which my manual says is for: Power Seat Module(s)/Audio Telematics/Daytime Running Lights Relay/Instrument Cluster/ Transfer Case Module... Anyone ever heard of such a problem or have any idea where to start looking for the problem. Oh yea, this problem started before I changed the WIN, that was my first guess at the root cause of the problem. Truck is a 2012 Ram 2500, 4X4, Auto, 6.7L Diesel, Mega cab with 208K miles. It seems to work OK when I leave this fuse out, at least it starts and shuts off. Thanks in advance for any help. Larry

Uhhh, never heard of this? Did the engine surge or did it sound like it was at idle? Only guesses i can make is that the instrument cluster is causing something to happen, a short, i don’t know.


Sent from my iPhone XS Max using Tapatalk

 

[LAkers]

Well this all started when a body shop replaced the roof skin on my 2012 mega cab. A branch fell and dented the roof so they decided to replace the roof panel instead of repairing it. When they returned my truck it was missing the roof top cab lights. They told me they could not replace the lights because it would void my warranty (for their work I assume). They told me to take it to someone else to install the lights. Before I could get it in to get installed it rained and the oh$hit handle on the passenger side began to leak. My insurance company had me take it back to them to fix the leak. I got it back 2 weeks later, still with no cab lights and the DRL still do not work. They had my truck for a total of 7 weeks for the roof repair. Still no help with the electrical problems though??? There is on surge or any electrical hiccups, everything seems to turn on and off with the key except the engine? Still searching for a reason...

 

[TheEnder]

Well this all started when a body shop replaced the roof skin on my 2012 mega cab. A branch fell and dented the roof so they decided to replace the roof panel instead of repairing it. When they returned my truck it was missing the roof top cab lights. They told me they could not replace the lights because it would void my warranty (for their work I assume). They told me to take it to someone else to install the lights. Before I could get it in to get installed it rained and the oh$hit handle on the passenger side began to leak. My insurance company had me take it back to them to fix the leak. I got it back 2 weeks later, still with no cab lights and the DRL still do not work. They had my truck for a total of 7 weeks for the roof repair. Still no help with the electrical problems though??? There is on surge or any electrical hiccups, everything seems to turn on and off with the key except the engine? Still searching for a reason...

Did you replace fuse m#15? If it doesn’t start when that in it’s a lead, i don’t know to where but it’s a lead. Seems like the water probably damaged fragile electronics, something i can equate this to is the 3rd brake light leaking on the 4th gens and when it rains you get a nice sized pool in the storage under your seats, lol. If it doesn’t shut down after you take the key out there’s obviously something damaged from the key slot to the PCM etc. I would take this to court, honestly. Have you tried disconnecting both batteries?


Sent from my 2013 Magnum 4.7L V8

 

[LAkers]

Did you replace fuse m#15? If it doesn’t start when that in it’s a lead, i don’t know to where but it’s a lead. Seems like the water probably damaged fragile electronics, something i can equate this to is the 3rd brake light leaking on the 4th gens and when it rains you get a nice sized pool in the storage under your seats, lol. If it doesn’t shut down after you take the key out there’s obviously something damaged from the key slot to the PCM etc. I would take this to court, honestly. Have you tried disconnecting both batteries?


Sent from my 2013 Magnum 4.7L V8

I have not replaced any fuses since they are still fine. The problem is that when that 20 amp fuse is plugged in, it will not shut off. Since the fuse also controls something in the transfer case so I do want to get it fixed. I have replaced the WIN module and had it reprogrammed for my keys. I have an appointment with a body shop next Monday to get the cab lights installed and have this problem checked out. I will post a follow up after this service is done.

 

[mtnrider]

That's a strange one for sure! I can't think of anything related to replacing the roof that could have been done to cause the issue you are having? Even the water coming in on the passenger side grab handle, there is nothing around there that could have been damaged to cause that?

I wonder if they were welding on the truck and something got fried in the TIPM or is intermittent? I have some old diagrams for around that year and it shows fuse #15 as the run/start fuse which would make sense why it shut down but not sure why you manual say's differently?


.

 

[LAkers]

That's a strange one for sure! I can't think of anything related to replacing the roof that could have been done to cause the issue you are having? Even the water coming in on the passenger side grab handle, there is nothing around there that could have been damaged to cause that?

I wonder if they were welding on the truck and something got fried in the TIPM or is intermittent? I have some old diagrams for around that year and it shows fuse #15 as the run/start fuse which would make sense why it shut down but not sure why you manual say's differently?


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I only thought so because they left the cut wires from the old rooftop cab lights inside the top. They did weld the top on when they replaced the roof skin. I have had the new OEM cab lights installed and they shop is checking the shutdown problem now. I'll update if they find the problem.

 

[chri5k]

If I understand your description, you removed both batteries negative cables and it kept running. Were they still disconnected when you removed the fuse? Or did you reconnect them and then remove the fuse?

 

[LAkers]

If I understand your description, you removed both batteries negative cables and it kept running. Were they still disconnected when you removed the fuse? Or did you reconnect them and then remove the fuse?

I disconnected both batteries when this problem first started trying to get it to shut down, it did not. I then re-connected both batteries and then pulled that fuse which resulted in the engine shutting down. I then removed the fuse when I needed to shut the truck off and replaced it when I wanted it to start. After a couple of days I forgot the fuse was out and started the truck. When I realized that I forgot to plug the fuse back in I shut the truck off and checked the fuses. Sure enough the truck would start and stop as normal without this fuse plugged in??? My main concern is that the fuse also has other components connected to it and the transfer case has me puzzled as to what it controls. The seat heaters part of this fuse is not so much of a concern to me. I did try unplugging both seats connections underneath the seats during my investigations, no change when I did that.

 

[chri5k]

This a strange one. Perhaps you could get a 3 day subscription to techauthority.com and download the wiring diagram for your truck. You could then trace all the components that are powered by the M15 fuse. It might be one of them is faulty and supplying power to the system or not signaling the ECM to shutdown the engine.

 

[LAkers]

This a strange one. Perhaps you could get a 3 day subscription to techauthority.com and download the wiring diagram for your truck. You could then trace all the components that are powered by the M15 fuse. It might be one of them is faulty and supplying power to the system or not signaling the ECM to shutdown the engine.

The Dodge dealer scanned my truck and found a pinched wire under the TIPM and said it was an aftermarket modification??? The only aftermarket mod to my truck would be the rooftop cab lights that are OEM??? It is fixed, but they could not explain what the after market wiring was... UGH
Thanks to all who responded.