2014 Transmission Upgrades

[crackerjack1957]

I went back through the document and didn't see anything related to limited slip or open differential, I'm guessing the only way to know is to take off the differential cover and look?

Should be able to leave black marks on a dig on the pavement.........if not hit the dirt, gravel or grass.
2 marks=LS
1 mark= open

 

[Daddyhas2boys]

Go to your local dealer and have them print off your build sheet...has everything your truck has from the factory....theres a link where you can put your vin number in and do the same but I cant seem to find the link....

 

[Tim Garceau]

If the build list doesn’t have the anti-spin differential option, you have an open rear carrier.

an open rear end will still spin both if the tires have equal traction, put one tire on a slick surface or around a corner and you’ll know.

 

[TomB 1269]

Also make sure the rear has LS vrs open differntial.....open differential only 1 wheel spins.
Might want to go back to site you found & put vin # in to see what you have from factory now.

Not quite true. In a straight line even traction to each tire and the fact that we have BDL these trucks can and will put down twin stretches particualrly due to the 4 link vs left rear suspension as we do not get the axle wrap of a leaf spring. I know I've done it repeatedly.

 

[TomB 1269]

So I've been looking around and reading and have come to the conclusion that I don't have the bank for any major HP gains on my truck. With that being said, more HP was a means to an end, the goal was better acceleration. I found another post suggesting new gears in the rear axle (4.56), torque convertor and a tuner would accomplish that, and looking at the prices I think I can get it done.

I'm looking at Moe's Performance, he has 4.56 gears for the 9.25 and 9.25ZF rear end. Multiple torque converters and tuners as well, so my questions are as follows.

• How do I determine what rear end I have? (2014 ram 1500 sport 4x4)
• Will replacing the torque converter put any additional stress on other parts of my transmission? If so what else do I need to beef up?
• What convertor/tuner would you recommend? Do they all pretty much work with each other or do certain tunes go with certain convertors?

Any advice/feed back is greatly appreciated.

I have a 2019 classic with 5.7L HP8 trany and 3.21 rear. She weighs in with my fat ass in the seat and my gear in the truck just under 6000lbs. I have taken it to the track and with factory tires and everything in it pulled the 1/4 in 15.063 at 93 mph. It is my opinion a set of street drag radials with a smaller overall tire size would decrease my time and would give me less wheel slip with the ability to launch at a higher RPM. She spins the tires off her if I try to launch at much over 1500. I have looked at a set of 275-285/45R17 drag radials which would change the effective gear ratio to around 3.80 - 3.90 which would decrease 60 ft and trap times with nothing more then a tire change, and allow me to keep my stock axle ratios and the better mileage and road manners then the cost of changing out front and rear gears. I could also drop some of the weight, my gear, spare tire, tailgate etc and lighten the truck by close to 10% which would decrease my times as well.......

 

[Wild one]

I have a 2019 classic with 5.7L HP8 trany and 3.21 rear. She weighs in with my fat ass in the seat and my gear in the truck just under 6000lbs. I have taken it to the track and with factory tires and everything in it pulled the 1/4 in 15.063 at 93 mph. It is my opinion a set of street drag radials with a smaller overall tire size would decrease my time and would give me less wheel slip with the ability to launch at a higher RPM. She spins the tires off her if I try to launch at much over 1500. I have looked at a set of 275-285/45R17 drag radials which would change the effective gear ratio to around 3.80 - 3.90 which would decrease 60 ft and trap times with nothing more then a tire change, and allow me to keep my stock axle ratios and the better mileage and road manners then the cost of changing out front and rear gears. I could also drop some of the weight, my gear, spare tire, tailgate etc and lighten the truck by close to 10% which would decrease my times as well.......

You have to be careful on the size differances between the front tires and the rear tires.If you have stock sized roughly 33" tall front tires and you stick a 28" tall drag radial on the back,you might have issues with the truck going into limp mode about 1/2 track.The wheel speed sensors don't like a huge tire differance.I ran into it on 2 trucks who borrowed my short little 275 drag radials,and they were running 33" tall front tires.I never had any issues on my truck with 30.5" front tires,but as soon as the tires were on trucks with stock sized front tires,both trucks had issues.

 

[LoadedExpressRam]

Firstly would be a 3500 stall torque converter, then a billet valve body with a gasket plate + deep trans pan and since the transmission has to come out already id install a sonnax high capacity OD clutch drum with more room for more clutches to avoid the common OD clutch failure, and once everything is said & done id get a tune for higher line pressure abs to redo shift points.


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Do you know if the pan for a 68rfe fits the 65? Im interested in the PPE but seems they only make for diesel. Appreciate all the advice.

 

[TheEnder]

Do you know if the pan for a 68rfe fits the 65? Im interested in the PPE but seems they only make for diesel. Appreciate all the advice.

It looks like they’re compatible, same shape, and from what i’m seeing stock RFE pans work on every revision of RFE transmission.


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