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Stuntman

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Hi all - newbie to the forum here. I had my Dodge guy - retired dealer mechanic of 30+ years - replace my fuel pump as my fuel gauge started dropping to empty intermittently. Apparently you replace everything. So he replaces with aftermarket pump (6 week wait for Mopar part) and it will cold start but when warm just cranks. Threw a Code - said fuel pressure sensor P018D - so that sensor was replaced. Still crank no start, unless 1st thing in the morning, or 1st start of the day. Diagnosed as fuel pressure to high, at 150 PSI, and should be around 55, I am told. Throw in SECOND aftermarket pump. Same thing. Starts ONCE, then crank no start. Fuel pressure at 150 again. I am told the high pressure is making the truck safegaurd and will crank, but not start.

Anybody encounter this? A have 300 kilometers on truck.

I bought a pump out of a Ram that had 30k on it so must be still an ok pump. Trying to find a shop that will install as my shady tree left on holiday. Also - since I have a ton of pressure, I am assuming it is not the ol' relay trick?

But if anyone has some insight on this aftermarket 150 PSI in the fuel line issue, or perhaps there is an adjustable regulator to crank to 55... anything. I need my truck working!

Thank you everyone!
 

04fxdwgi

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Did the ECM toss a CEL? If it did, what is /are the code(s)

Reading 150psi seems kind of odd. Have you checked the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail? If it is sending a bad signal to the ECU, all kinds of bad things happen in the fuel system.
 
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Jeepwalker

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Might be a faulty sensor or fuel pump.

The regulator should be in the pump as I understand it.
 
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Stuntman

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Thanks 04 and Jeepwalker.

If there is some kind of a regulator that's adjustable in the pump that would be ideal. As for the sensor - it threw out a P018D and so I actually had the sensor replaced in the first go-around :) This is TWO aftermarket pumps in succession doing the same thing. It will start once, but once the fuel pressure builds it just cranks - and you have to wait for the fuel slowly dissipate and that takes hours, basically a day. So your stuck if you turn it off.
 

62Blazer

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How are they getting the 150 PSI reading.....is that what a scan tool is stating based off the reading from the ECM, or are they actually installing a manual fuel pressure gauge at the engine? Keep in mind that just because a code mentions a sensor, that doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad. The definition of that code is "Fuel Pressure Sensor B Circuit High" and not "fuel pressure sensor is bad". It could simply being saying it has detected an abnormal or out of spec fuel pressure (if you are actually getting 150 psi). If you are getting a bad reading I will say that it is often damaged wiring or connectors. I believe this sensor is mounted in the engine bay so don't think you would be messing with it when replacing the fuel pump at the tank. But did the mechanic maybe mess around with it when first looking at the truck?
 

Jeepwalker

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I agree with above: get an actual pressure reading with a mechanical gauge. Is the fuel pump even capable of 150psi??
 

04fxdwgi

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I have an old HVAC gauge set that I use to screw to the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and use to check the fuel rail pressure. Just an idea.

Fuel pump module, sensor and or regulator (all are electronic) is what I would lean to. May even be the ECM.
 
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jws123

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After going through 2 aftermarket pumps this is the only thing my cheap ass recommends going OEM worth the money.
 

Dusty

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How are they getting the 150 PSI reading.....is that what a scan tool is stating based off the reading from the ECM, or are they actually installing a manual fuel pressure gauge at the engine? Keep in mind that just because a code mentions a sensor, that doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad. The definition of that code is "Fuel Pressure Sensor B Circuit High" and not "fuel pressure sensor is bad". It could simply being saying it has detected an abnormal or out of spec fuel pressure (if you are actually getting 150 psi). If you are getting a bad reading I will say that it is often damaged wiring or connectors. I believe this sensor is mounted in the engine bay so don't think you would be messing with it when replacing the fuel pump at the tank. But did the mechanic maybe mess around with it when first looking at the truck?
There may be an interpretation problem.

If the definition of the fault code is "Fuel Pressure Sensor B Circuit High," it should mean the circuit voltage is high, not the fuel pressure.

ADDENDUM: You may have an open sensor return circuit to the ECM, or perhaps a bad ground.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 112503 miles.
 
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Stuntman

Stuntman

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How are they getting the 150 PSI reading.....is that what a scan tool is stating based off the reading from the ECM, or are they actually installing a manual fuel pressure gauge at the engine? Keep in mind that just because a code mentions a sensor, that doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad. The definition of that code is "Fuel Pressure Sensor B Circuit High" and not "fuel pressure sensor is bad". It could simply being saying it has detected an abnormal or out of spec fuel pressure (if you are actually getting 150 psi). If you are getting a bad reading I will say that it is often damaged wiring or connectors. I believe this sensor is mounted in the engine bay so don't think you would be messing with it when replacing the fuel pump at the tank. But did the mechanic maybe mess around with it when first looking at the truck?
I'm not sure if it was a real pressure test or digital - my year has the sensor in the fuel rail down by the pump itself, not behind the engine like most. This guy was a Mopar Dealer service tech for 30 years, so even though he is 'shady tree'in' I usually trust the heck out of him. Its's just that right after this job he is gone for a month. Left me with a truck that wouldn't start. The idea of the sensor not being bad appeals to me, as it only gave a code after the after market pump was put in. And alos, the only reason the AM pump was used is because oem was a 6-8 week wait. That one IS on order - but I gotta drive in the meantime. I did install a used pump from a truck that had 30 km on it (canadian) and it has fired up everytime since.
 

Wild one

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I'm not sure if it was a real pressure test or digital - my year has the sensor in the fuel rail down by the pump itself, not behind the engine like most. This guy was a Mopar Dealer service tech for 30 years, so even though he is 'shady tree'in' I usually trust the heck out of him. Its's just that right after this job he is gone for a month. Left me with a truck that wouldn't start. The idea of the sensor not being bad appeals to me, as it only gave a code after the after market pump was put in. And alos, the only reason the AM pump was used is because oem was a 6-8 week wait. That one IS on order - but I gotta drive in the meantime. I did install a used pump from a truck that had 30 km on it (canadian) and it has fired up everytime since.
Just for the record you can replace the sending unit,you should inform your Dodge guy of that fact.
Being a dealer tech,he might never of heard of the aftermarket sending units,as all he would of dealt with would of been complete pump units



 

XCELLR8

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One thing to keep in mind. It was stated that the OEM fuel pump had the fuel pressure regulator built in the pump assembly. The aftermarket pump assembly may not have a fuel pressure regulator on it at all, therefor you were not regulating the fuel pressure. You would of needed an external fuel pressure regulator down stream of the pump on the aftermarket one.
 

El Guapo Phil

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XCellars' comment make sense. If I were you, I'd look to install a regulator. If not, go with the OEM part. Sometimes paying the OEM price is worth it.
 

Jeepwalker

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If your pump/sensor is back by the pump....and you're in Canada, check the big *** of grounds near the fuel tank for rust. My truck, although not very rusty underneath, that ground area is pretty rusty.

It 'should' be around your truck's gasoline filler tube, behind the box sheet metal. Make sure the wires there are good and clean.
 

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