2020 Ram 1500 E torque starting issue

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Posty

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Good morning.

I am having an issue with my 2020 Ram 1500 Etorque.

I went to start it this morning and have a serious of “spazzing” lights, noises from the dash board.


The lights and noises go in and out every quarter second. It continues to “spazz” without hitting the start stop button. I’d say that there isn’t enough juice in the battery, but it’s Repeatedly doing this for a minute or so until it allows me to run the start button through the accesory/run and off cycle.

Additionally, as the truck is “spazzing” i want to say im hearing some kind of start up noise coming from the battery?! That’s my assumption. I have a video but I don’t believe I can add a video to this thread.

The truck has had the same battery since buying from dealership. Additionally the Etorque battery that’s in the truck was replaced the day I bought it.

I only know so much, I’d want to say this is a battery issue??

I drove my truck yesterday for about 15 minutes with know issues at all.

I’ll add some photos but it doesn’t do it justice. The videos are more supportive
 

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crash68

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I have a video but I don’t believe I can add a video to this thread.
To post a video, you need to post the video on a video sharing site like YouTube then post that link in your post.
Check the 12V battery when the vehicle is showing issues, guessing the battery is getting weak. The 12V battery is responsible for powering the vehicle and the initial starting of the engine
 

turkeybird56

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Good morning.

I am having an issue with my 2020 Ram 1500 Etorque.

I went to start it this morning and have a serious of “spazzing” lights, noises from the dash board.


The lights and noises go in and out every quarter second. It continues to “spazz” without hitting the start stop button. I’d say that there isn’t enough juice in the battery, but it’s Repeatedly doing this for a minute or so until it allows me to run the start button through the accesory/run and off cycle.

Additionally, as the truck is “spazzing” i want to say im hearing some kind of start up noise coming from the battery?! That’s my assumption. I have a video but I don’t believe I can add a video to this thread.

The truck has had the same battery since buying from dealership. Additionally the Etorque battery that’s in the truck was replaced the day I bought it.

I only know so much, I’d want to say this is a battery issue??

I drove my truck yesterday for about 15 minutes with know issues at all.

Welcome to forum.I’ll add some photos but it doesn’t do it justice. The videos are more supportive


Pictures not focused enough to read.
Very 1st Thought: Battery. These batteries are not going any more than 2-4 years. Entirely too much computer modules are pulling amps and always on, even if vehicle is off. Before you pull battery, check and make sure there is no special steps you need to take to replace 12V battery in an E TQ vehicle. There may be a special order you need to do, as I do not have E TQ.


@crash68 and @Wild one ANY special order to replace 12V main battery on E TQ models???

Get battery tested and load tested, if possible have an analogue unit and test yourself, a lot better than digital.

Be good bet, you need a battery.

Walmart has them and Harbor Freight.



ADDED; If you have a code reader, may want and pull codes. BET you have a bunch related to low power (availability) for sensors/modules.
 
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turkeybird56

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Posty

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Makes me think Bad Battery and/or maybe a Bad Ground. Definitely check tightness of Battery Cables also and get battery load tested.

Not a mechanic, do as U see fit. IMHO, Battery and/or cable issue.
Hey listen I truly appreciate the reply. Where would the ground on this be if you have any idea?

Secondly would my local O Riley’s be able to do a battery load test?
 

mb33458

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If you are still using the original 5 year old OEM battery, I would guess that is the most likely culprit. Either take the truck or just the battery to a local auto parts store and have it tested. The OEM batteries rarely last more than 3 years. Mine is 4 yrs old and I am starting to have some trouble with it.
 
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Posty

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Pictures not focused enough to read.
Very 1st Thought: Battery. These batteries are not going any more than 2-4 years. Entirely too much computer modules are pulling amps and always on, even if vehicle is off. Before you pull battery, check and make sure there is no special steps you need to take to replace 12V battery in an E TQ vehicle. There may be a special order you need to do, as I do not have E TQ.


@crash68 and @Wild one ANY special order to replace 12V main battery on E TQ models???

Get battery tested and load tested, if possible have an analogue unit and test yourself, a lot better than digital.

Be good bet, you need a battery.

Walmart has them and Harbor Freight.



ADDED; If you have a code reader, may want and pull codes. BET you have a bunch related to low power (availability) for sensors/modules.
Thank you for your reply! I posted a link farther down for the video of what is going on.

I am curious if there is a special method to replace this battery. I’m under the assumption it’s the same as any regular disconnection for a vehicle.

The battery is almost 5 years old, so I’m hoping it’s just that. I guess I was just shocked figuring I drove yesterday and didn’t notice any issues.
 
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Posty

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If you are still using the original 5 year old OEM battery, I would guess that is the most likely culprit. Either take the truck or just the battery to a local auto parts store and have it tested. The OEM batteries rarely last more than 3 years. Mine is 4 yrs old and I am starting to have some trouble with it.
That’s what I was suspecting, but with all the electrical components on these 5th Gen’s I just didn’t think it would be that easy.

I’m going to have to just remove the battery because I couldn’t even get it to turn over.

I posted a video in this thread of what was exactly happening.
 

turkeybird56

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Hey listen I truly appreciate the reply. Where would the ground on this be if you have any idea?

Secondly would my local O Riley’s be able to do a battery load test?
Multiple grounds: Easiest to get to: Insure tightness of Positive/Negative cables on battery. Also, on top of negative cable, should be an IBS sensor. Check also that the other cable to the sensor, which goes into harness is secure, think 10 mm.
Maybe on O'Reillys. If they use older analogue one like I listed above, be great. Digital work, but are known sometimes not reliable, why I posted URL if U were thinking
of getting your own, post #3. Pic what IBS looks like: That is mounted on Negative cable. Arrow points to bolt on IBS U need to check. Got pic from Mopar Parts using 2020 Bighorn, yer motor selection.


Screenshot 2025-03-08 140616.jpg
 

mikeru

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5 years is good for an OEM battery. Not saying you can't get more out of one but lots of people have had issues with the original battery in 5th gens. I had to replace the one in our 2020 Limited after three years. It's worth testing it but I wouldn't trust it to make it much longer even if it tests good. And I'd definitely replace it before winter later this year.
 
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Posty

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5 years is good for an OEM battery. Not saying you can't get more out of one but lots of people have had issues with the original battery in 5th gens. I had to replace the one in our 2020 Limited after three years. It's worth testing it but I wouldn't trust it to make it much longer even if it tests good. And I'd definitely replace it before winter later this
5 years is good for an OEM battery. Not saying you can't get more out of one but lots of people have had issues with the original battery in 5th gens. I had to replace the one in our 2020 Limited after three years. It's worth testing it but I wouldn't trust it to make it much longer even if it tests good. And I'd definitely replace it before winter later this year.
No you are right about the battery. Not that I heard about the issue with OEM, but it is a good idea I replace it after the length of time.

I’m not sure if you saw the clip I posted above in the thread. Do you think it’s consistent with a low voltage/bad battery?
 

crash68

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I am curious if there is a special method to replace this battery. I’m under the assumption it’s the same as any regular disconnection for a vehicle.
Change like on a non-eTorque vehicle. Remove the negative first and put in on last once the new battery is installed. Do not remove the nut completely on the IBS, just loosen it.
You might get some CEL codes due in part to the low voltage and/or disconnecting the battery. Nothing to be concerned with, just clear them.
Once the new battery is installed, you'll want to check the voltage at the battery with the truck running to verify the charging voltage. 13.8-14.4 is normal, sometimes slightly higher in colder weather.
 
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Posty

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Change like on a non-eTorque vehicle. Remove the negative first and put in on last once the new battery is installed. Do not remove the nut completely on the IBS, just loosen it.
You might get some CEL codes due in part to the low voltage and/or disconnecting the battery. Nothing to be concerned with, just clear them.
Once the new battery is installed, you'll want to check the voltage at the battery with the truck running to verify the charging voltage. 13.8-14.4 is normal, sometimes slightly higher in colder weather.
Awesome thank you for the step by step.

Sorry stupid question but IBS?

Also there is nothing special with clearing codes on these newer Rams? I don’t have to go to a dealership?

Also I don’t know if you saw the video of what was happening I posted above?

Is your opinion it’s a 12v battery issue? Just looking for more experienced opinions.
 

mikeru

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No you are right about the battery. Not that I heard about the issue with OEM, but it is a good idea I replace it after the length of time.

I’m not sure if you saw the clip I posted above in the thread. Do you think it’s consistent with a low voltage/bad battery?
I saw the clip. I can't say if it's consistent with a low voltage condition since I never experienced that. But that's the first thing I would suspect if I saw that on our truck.

I replaced the battery on our truck because the truck was totally dead. I couldn't unlock the truck with either fob. The problem ended up being the RF hub, but the battery (after fully charging it) showed weak in a load test so I decided to just replace it.
 

Wild one

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Awesome thank you for the step by step.

Sorry stupid question but IBS?

Also there is nothing special with clearing codes on these newer Rams? I don’t have to go to a dealership?

Also I don’t know if you saw the video of what was happening I posted above?

Is your opinion it’s a 12v battery issue? Just looking for more experienced opinions.
TurkeyBird has a picture of the IBS /intellegent battery sensor in post #10,it's on the neg battery cable.
You'll probably have to reset a few things,like your heater controls /amp for the radio etc,after replacing the battery.Some of them might take upwards of a couple hours to come back,don't worry about it,that's normal.
Theres a little block in the bottom of the battery tray,if you remove it,you can upgrade to the bigger H8 battery,as i think you'll have the H7 battery right now
 

crash68

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Sorry stupid question but IBS?
only stupid if you don't ask, when you don't know.
As mentioned above, Intelligent Battery Sensor. It monitors the battery temperature, state of charge, etc. Sorta like voltage/amperage meter but a lot smarter.
If you have a voltage meter you could see what's happening with the current battery voltage when the dash is flashing like that. You can't rely on the voltage reading in the dash. If the battery voltage drops too low vehicles start doing strange things and they'll even shut down if the voltage drops too low. Guessing a cell within your current battery has gone bad and the voltage makes a sudden drop when put under a load.
 
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Posty

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Good morning.

I am having an issue with my 2020 Ram 1500 Etorque.

I went to start it this morning and have a serious of “spazzing” lights, noises from the dash board.


The lights and noises go in and out every quarter second. It continues to “spazz” without hitting the start stop button. I’d say that there isn’t enough juice in the battery, but it’s Repeatedly doing this for a minute or so until it allows me to run the start button through the accesory/run and off cycle.

Additionally, as the truck is “spazzing” i want to say im hearing some kind of start up noise coming from the battery?! That’s my assumption. I have a video but I don’t believe I can add a video to this thread.

The truck has had the same battery since buying from dealership. Additionally the Etorque battery that’s in the truck was replaced the day I bought it.

I only know so much, I’d want to say this is a battery issue??

I drove my truck yesterday for about 15 minutes with know issues at all.

I’ll add some photos but it doesn’t do it justice. The videos are more supportive
Update#1

Went to my local Costco and bought interstate battery. Only could find an H7 as much as I would have wanted to try H8.

Swapped batteries this morning, tested, and finally started truck. IT RUNS!

Only thing that happened when I turned the truck on, I did get a display message for about a second saying” power steering unavailable”

I let it idle for roughly 8-10 minutes followed by ten minute drive.

No issues at the moment. Power steering was intact.

Voltage reading is 14.4. While idle.

Thank you again to all of you for your contributions. As simple as this diagnoses might have been I appreciate the help from this forum.
 

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