46RE Transmission Issue/questions/rebuild?

[Snowmanak406]

thanks again for your insight/advice/help with this as well. it is greatly appreciated

 

[Snowmanak406]

so i think i am going to get the 4 pinion planet set, to swap out for the 3 and bypass this issue, stronger parts and wont have to try to find another 3-tab thrust washer, as the kit only came with ones for the other planet set and sung gear shell as those are both 3 tab. found one for about 40$. just need to dismantle my OD housing to make sure no other parts are necessary to order. the outer plate in the front clutch assembly managed to get very warped. about 1/16" across the flat per side of cupping. and the plastic spacer along with the Belleville spring being damaged. used some 5/16" X 4" bolts welded together at the bolt heads with the shank/threaded area spaced at about 3.5" from each other to make a tripod like press tool to remove the snap rings, surprisingly worked well. hoping to have the OD unit inspected and back together by tomorrow barring any parts are needed above the rebuild kit. (came with an updated snap ring so need that in there too.) i was reading you can replace the thick steal spacer that goes against the housing with another friction and 2 steels for added surface area, has anyone on here tried this yet?

 

[Snowmanak406]

have the trans mostly back together minus the front clutch and rear (forward) clutch, as i am waiting for parts. ordered the 4 pinion probably didn't necessarily need it, but hey stronger than a 3 i guess, both are aluminum though. had a scare on the O/D piston pump housing. started putting the bolts that came out of it back in, short story, wrong bolts. went to go torque them down got barely to 100 in/lbs. and then snapped off very lucky it didn't strip though.

 

[Snowmanak406]

got some parts and i am able to rebuild the direct (front) clutch (the one with the 9/15 springs on the piston), and the kit i received had the upgrade inner lip seal for the piston, running into a concern. initially i put it together with the original style, as it was closest to the dimensions as the one i removed. i had compared it to the other (which i later found out it was the upgrade seal) and the upgraded one seems to have a smaller diameter. which leads to my concern, it seems to be significantly smaller in diameter to the point of may not being able to fit correctlly? is that normal? i haven't tried to put the upgraded one in as i found out after some research at home, but its inner diameter seems to be more similar to that of the inside of that hub assembly it installs into. @mathews8pt or @chrisp2493 do you have any insight / ideas?

 

[mathews8pt]

Can you post a pic of the seals your talking about?


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[Snowmanak406]

i don't have a picture of only that right now, i will after work so you can have a better idea for size comparison. here are some reference pictures though.
it sits against the inner inner piston bore, mounted to the drum itself. the

 

[mathews8pt]

Ok, just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same one. I always use the upgraded wider seal in all of my builds. I just roll it down into the groove and make sure it’s in facing the correct way and it will work fine


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[Snowmanak406]

ok thanks! glad i noticed it in the bottom of the box, it had slid almost all the way under the flaps on the bottom of the box so almost didn't even see it. wanting to get the main internal parts back in before i tear down the VB, mainly for room reasons. do not think i am going to be able to put in the shift correction kit this time, but am installing the drain plug to make it easier later.

 

[Snowmanak406]

well started the valve body got impatient waiting for parts... its pretty nasty in there. lots of burnt friction material particles and burnt fluid, the pressure valve, and the switch valves were pretty stuck in there, had to use a screwdriver on the back side of them to pry them out. there is a beveled cut into a portion of the switch valve though? it definitely looks like it was ground or filed though, does not appear to be from damage of some-sort. there isn't any type of shift kit that this would have been done for or anything right? seems like it would be pretty difficult to "accidentally" grind that spot. cant recall off the top of my head if it is the 2nd spool back or the third (one of the small ones). will try to take a pic tomorrow, phone was pretty close to dead there today.

 

[mathews8pt]

That’s common with some of the shift kits. Take some pics of the vb once cleaned up a little and I’ll look it over for other modified/changed parts


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[Snowmanak406]

Definitely will do, should be able to today after work, i need to get access to a parts washer again might just try the B12 parts washer kit you get at auto parts stores, says it is usable to clean small transmission parts anyway. am really excited to get this put back together but do not want to rush it.

 

[Snowmanak406]

Wasn't able to get any further in tear down, but here are the two I pulled last night. The smaller one has the grind to it.

 

[Snowmanak406]

Well I may be wrong but, looking at the tfod jr. Shift kit it says to grind that valve like that. Can't find a superior shift kit manual though. It looks like that may come with a whole new one though?

 

[Snowmanak406]

So, the rear clutch had enough room for another friction/steel, I'm wondering if maybe the previous rebuilder didn't know how many should go in there? With 4 frictions it is on the lower side of the 0.024-0.040 spectrum. But within it. Have you guys ever ran into that on rebuilding someone's trans?

 

[mathews8pt]

4 frictions and 25 thou clearance will be fine for the rear(forward) clutch. The switch valve is ground for all the transgo stuff, they also sell one with a narrow land in that position.


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[Snowmanak406]

Yeah it was almost 0.027 clearance with 4, may have been a contributor to why it burnt up so bad? Just got the main components out back in the case, ended with 0.060 end play, it was strange when installing the 4 pinion planet though, only wanted to line up on the teeth at one tooth spot. If rotated a tooth more in either direction was really tight. At that tooth it was still tighter, but was able to slide down all the way. May be able to crack into the valve body some more tomorrow, building a planter box for my nephew's birthday for the rest of the day.

 

[Snowmanak406]

Lower valve body valves

 

[Snowmanak406]

so, trying to identify the torque converter for this. please correct me if im wrong. to my understanding, i am looking for a low stall/1600-1800 rpm, lock-up type converter for this correct?

 

[Snowmanak406]

Upper valvebody valves
If these help identify if this already has a shift kit would be very grateful!!
Thanks
-Michael

 

[mathews8pt]

Looks like the factory lockup bracket which is upgraded in a lot of kits. The manual valve and the spring(s) on the PR valve will tell you more then any other part of the vb.


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