sirdumpsalot
Senior Member
BL: An easy way to check if your turbo vanes are functioning properly is with an OBDII reader and checking the sensor data.
Earlier this summer my 2017 ecodiesel started losing power while towing my ~5k lb camper. "Service electronic throttle control" message and CEL while 4 hours away from home on a camping trip. Truck would be limited to ~45 mph unless I cleared the CEL, uphills were as slow as 30 mph. With no trailer, after clearing CEL, acceleration would be delayed and then the CEL would return, back to ~30-45 mph. After troubleshooting, I eventually figured out the turbo was 'bad' - either vane actuator wasn't working right, vanes were clogged with soot, or something else in the turbo. Truck is 2017 ecodiesel with 95k (frustrating that the turbo went out so early...EGR sucks)
Troubleshooting steps:
- Figured/hoped it was a sensor problem - cleaned and replaced MAP sensor - lots of DIY videos online, very simple. Single torx bolt holds it on in the top rear of the engine - no change
- This was several months ago so I can't remember what else I checked, but eventually I discovered the turbo wasn't working correctly using an OBDII reader and looking at the sensor data
- You can verify your turbo is working properly by looking at "Commanded Variable Geometry Turbo A Position" and "Variable Geometry Turbo A Position" sensor readings as you drive and accelerate. The sensor measures from 0-100% as a function of turbo vane position (they move to provide optimal airflow depending on the demand). Vanes should be able to move throughout the entier range and the actual position should be very close to the commanded position. As it turns out, my actual position was limited to ~5-45%. See the screenshots below with the black background. A properly functioning turbo should look like the white background.
Once I narrowed it down, I was able to order a replacement OEM Garrett turbo through one of the dealership websites for only $800 from a random sale! DIY was a big project, but easier than you think! Turbo is held on by just three bolts and a bunch of tubes that connect it. Biggest risk is snapping a rusted bolt (which I did once) and removing the cab.
Parts needed: described in the youtube video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBOev8ptq44
- Turbo part includes a $200 core charge
- The water bypass tube was a separate thing that was leaking, nothing do to with the turbo
- I reused the banjo bolts, I think changing the washers was sufficient
- Turbo water hose isn't necessary, but might as well replace while you're back there.
- Permatex copper spray sealant to coat the metal gaskets
- 68148169AAO Ring to Air Inlet was backordered so I didn't replace that, but would have if I could find one
DIY Turbo Replacement:
- Remove cab - see my other post here about how it's a lot easier than you think
- Remove turbo - I used the truck's service manual for steps and torque specs, you can download from another post on this site
- Intercooler lines - quick disconnect brackets - just use a flathead screwdriver
- Bolts - careful not to over torque, even when removing, if they are giving you resistance use penetrating oil and take your time. I snapped the smaller of the three bolts that hold the turbo on, had to weld another bolt head onto it and caused a big delay in the process
- This would be a great time to remove your EGR, DPF filter, and DEF tank/injector
- Be careful hooking up coolant and oil lines and make sure to torque properly to avoid leaks.
Surprisingly to me, it worked after I got everything back together. I was nervous oil or coolant would have a look but knock on wood so far so good. Let me know if you have questions!
Earlier this summer my 2017 ecodiesel started losing power while towing my ~5k lb camper. "Service electronic throttle control" message and CEL while 4 hours away from home on a camping trip. Truck would be limited to ~45 mph unless I cleared the CEL, uphills were as slow as 30 mph. With no trailer, after clearing CEL, acceleration would be delayed and then the CEL would return, back to ~30-45 mph. After troubleshooting, I eventually figured out the turbo was 'bad' - either vane actuator wasn't working right, vanes were clogged with soot, or something else in the turbo. Truck is 2017 ecodiesel with 95k (frustrating that the turbo went out so early...EGR sucks)
Troubleshooting steps:
- Figured/hoped it was a sensor problem - cleaned and replaced MAP sensor - lots of DIY videos online, very simple. Single torx bolt holds it on in the top rear of the engine - no change
- This was several months ago so I can't remember what else I checked, but eventually I discovered the turbo wasn't working correctly using an OBDII reader and looking at the sensor data
- You can verify your turbo is working properly by looking at "Commanded Variable Geometry Turbo A Position" and "Variable Geometry Turbo A Position" sensor readings as you drive and accelerate. The sensor measures from 0-100% as a function of turbo vane position (they move to provide optimal airflow depending on the demand). Vanes should be able to move throughout the entier range and the actual position should be very close to the commanded position. As it turns out, my actual position was limited to ~5-45%. See the screenshots below with the black background. A properly functioning turbo should look like the white background.
Once I narrowed it down, I was able to order a replacement OEM Garrett turbo through one of the dealership websites for only $800 from a random sale! DIY was a big project, but easier than you think! Turbo is held on by just three bolts and a bunch of tubes that connect it. Biggest risk is snapping a rusted bolt (which I did once) and removing the cab.
Parts needed: described in the youtube video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBOev8ptq44
- Turbo part includes a $200 core charge
- The water bypass tube was a separate thing that was leaking, nothing do to with the turbo
- I reused the banjo bolts, I think changing the washers was sufficient
- Turbo water hose isn't necessary, but might as well replace while you're back there.
- Permatex copper spray sealant to coat the metal gaskets
- 68148169AAO Ring to Air Inlet was backordered so I didn't replace that, but would have if I could find one
Part Number | Part Name | Price | Quantity | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
68211213AD | Turbocharger | $986.14 | 1 | $986.14 |
68146718AA | Turbo Exhaust Outlet Gasket | $16.63 | 1 | $16.63 |
68148176AA | Exhaust Manifold To Turbo Gasket | $6.35 | 2 | $12.70 |
68395009AA | Turbo Oil Drain Pipe Gasket | $5.47 | 1 | $5.47 |
68211200AC | Water By Pass Tube | $78.80 | 1 | $78.80 |
68150118AA | Sealing Washer | $2.30 | 6 | $13.80 |
68229382AA | Banjo Washer | $1.69 | 2 | $3.38 |
68211250AA | Turbo Water Hose | $24.13 | 1 | $24.13 |
68492930AA | Hex Locking Nut | $3.92 | 6 | $23.52 |
6506619AA | Nut, Mounting | $3.11 | 3 | $9.33 |
5142794AA | Grommet | $12.88 | 1 | $12.88 |
DIY Turbo Replacement:
- Remove cab - see my other post here about how it's a lot easier than you think
- Remove turbo - I used the truck's service manual for steps and torque specs, you can download from another post on this site
- Intercooler lines - quick disconnect brackets - just use a flathead screwdriver
- Bolts - careful not to over torque, even when removing, if they are giving you resistance use penetrating oil and take your time. I snapped the smaller of the three bolts that hold the turbo on, had to weld another bolt head onto it and caused a big delay in the process
- This would be a great time to remove your EGR, DPF filter, and DEF tank/injector
- Be careful hooking up coolant and oil lines and make sure to torque properly to avoid leaks.
Surprisingly to me, it worked after I got everything back together. I was nervous oil or coolant would have a look but knock on wood so far so good. Let me know if you have questions!
