I searched around a bit and haven't seen anyone post about removing the cab so I figured I would share my most recent DIY adventure.
BL: If you have an issue/project that requires removing the cab, it is more doable than you think! As long as you have access to a lift, AC evac machine, and youtube, you can lift the cab in <2 hours. From what I can tell, it's much easier with newer trucks compared to trucks 20 years ago since they are designed with cab removal in mind now.
-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEa8YmdptGA
-I have military base access, so I was able to use the local auto hobby shop lift for $10/hour
-I also downloaded my truck's service manuals from another thread in this forum for torque specs and system knowledge
This guy has a great video that walks through all the connection points. It's basically step-by-step, but there are a few additional points to consider:
- Most painful part was finding a mechanic that would be willing to evac the coolant and let me bring the truck back a few days later to recharge for a reasonable price. Found a place that did both for $150 total. My truck is 2017 with R1234 which requires a special machine that's expensive and a lot of places don't want to deal with it
- Be careful with all the electrical connectors so you don't snap any plastic clips
- Drain the coolant
- 0:32 2xHeater hoses to cab - these are coolant lines, I disconnected further down where it was easier to access instead of on the firewall
- 0:42 "Christmas Tree" means the plastic bracket that holds electrical wires in place by pushing into a round hole
- 1:10 Charge air hoses have quick disconnect brackets on the engine side, just use a flathead screwdriver
- 1:15 2x transmission coolant lines have quick disconnect retainer clips, again, flathead screwdriver, don't lose them, do your best not to let any fluid out
- 2:51 radiator hoses - if you haven't worked with tube clamps before, locking pliers are your best bet
- 3:08 master cylinder - just pulls out, there might be a suction, but it's just air, you don't need to drain the brake system or anything
- 3:46 transmission shift cable - he disconnects at the transmission which risks snapping the plastic ring that holds it on. There is an actual disconnect halfway up the line that can be accessed from the top driver's side, underneath the master cylinder and underneath the steering intermediate shaft. Should be self explanatory
- 3:50 intermediate shaft - can unbold at the top or bottom, will have to turn the wheels slightly to have access to the bolt. I recommend the top because the steering column protruding from the firewall pushes back into the firewall to allow the intermediate shaft to actually disconnect
- 4:05 he calls the parking brake cable the 'shift cable' by accident
- 4:54 rolling chassis - transmisssion will likely be locked so you have to pull the cable that connects to the trans once, that will allow rolling
Re-assembly:
- I bought a coolant vacuum system but we couldn't get it to work. I ended up just adding coolant, running the truck to bleed, and repeating 3-4 times.
- Careful with the intermediate steering shaft, I accidentally put the bolt in backwards and stripped it, so my steering was loose for awhile. 3rd party replacement shaft was inexpensive.
Overall it went better than I expected, saved a lot of money, plus it felt good to DIY! Let me know if you have questions.
I had to remove the cab to replace the turbo, I will make a separate post about turbo replacement/troubleshooting in a moment.
BL: If you have an issue/project that requires removing the cab, it is more doable than you think! As long as you have access to a lift, AC evac machine, and youtube, you can lift the cab in <2 hours. From what I can tell, it's much easier with newer trucks compared to trucks 20 years ago since they are designed with cab removal in mind now.
-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEa8YmdptGA
-I have military base access, so I was able to use the local auto hobby shop lift for $10/hour
-I also downloaded my truck's service manuals from another thread in this forum for torque specs and system knowledge
This guy has a great video that walks through all the connection points. It's basically step-by-step, but there are a few additional points to consider:
- Most painful part was finding a mechanic that would be willing to evac the coolant and let me bring the truck back a few days later to recharge for a reasonable price. Found a place that did both for $150 total. My truck is 2017 with R1234 which requires a special machine that's expensive and a lot of places don't want to deal with it
- Be careful with all the electrical connectors so you don't snap any plastic clips
- Drain the coolant
- 0:32 2xHeater hoses to cab - these are coolant lines, I disconnected further down where it was easier to access instead of on the firewall
- 0:42 "Christmas Tree" means the plastic bracket that holds electrical wires in place by pushing into a round hole
- 1:10 Charge air hoses have quick disconnect brackets on the engine side, just use a flathead screwdriver
- 1:15 2x transmission coolant lines have quick disconnect retainer clips, again, flathead screwdriver, don't lose them, do your best not to let any fluid out
- 2:51 radiator hoses - if you haven't worked with tube clamps before, locking pliers are your best bet
- 3:08 master cylinder - just pulls out, there might be a suction, but it's just air, you don't need to drain the brake system or anything
- 3:46 transmission shift cable - he disconnects at the transmission which risks snapping the plastic ring that holds it on. There is an actual disconnect halfway up the line that can be accessed from the top driver's side, underneath the master cylinder and underneath the steering intermediate shaft. Should be self explanatory
- 3:50 intermediate shaft - can unbold at the top or bottom, will have to turn the wheels slightly to have access to the bolt. I recommend the top because the steering column protruding from the firewall pushes back into the firewall to allow the intermediate shaft to actually disconnect
- 4:05 he calls the parking brake cable the 'shift cable' by accident
- 4:54 rolling chassis - transmisssion will likely be locked so you have to pull the cable that connects to the trans once, that will allow rolling
Re-assembly:
- I bought a coolant vacuum system but we couldn't get it to work. I ended up just adding coolant, running the truck to bleed, and repeating 3-4 times.
- Careful with the intermediate steering shaft, I accidentally put the bolt in backwards and stripped it, so my steering was loose for awhile. 3rd party replacement shaft was inexpensive.
Overall it went better than I expected, saved a lot of money, plus it felt good to DIY! Let me know if you have questions.
I had to remove the cab to replace the turbo, I will make a separate post about turbo replacement/troubleshooting in a moment.
