5.7 ENGINE LIFE...AND FRONT END SUSPENSION ISSUE

[Delta11]

I bought a 2500 with a 5.7 with 95k on it. I changed the oil 4 times the first month. Each time I added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in hopes of cleaning any carbon, etc. out of the engine. The oil came out black and then eventually cleared up on the last oil change. I feel that the Marvel cleaned the engine up. Now I have been running the required conventional oil with Marvel added every 5000. I am at 197k. Engine does not burn oil, no leaks, etc. I guess that I'm conducting an experiment to see just how many miles/hours I can get on my 5.7. I don't do any heavy towing. I am hoping to make this engine last. Basic maintenance spark plugs, air filter, cleaned throttle body, put some Marvel in my gas. I have heard not to switch over to synthetic or semi synthetic with the miles that I have. Any comments on longevity with the 5.7 and how to achieve it? I don't drive it hard.

On another topic...when I hit a bump my front end will almost toss me into another lane on the highway. Has anyone an answer for this dangerous issue? Its a 2500.

Thanks

 

[kurek]

heh... OIL THREAAAAAAAD!!!

 

[ShortRAM]

I have a friend who does consulting for Extended warranty companies and when I told him I had a 5.7 this was his response:

1. Watch the temperature gauge and if it goes into the high temperature area, IMMEDIATELY shut the engine down. DO NOT attempt to make it to the next exit. Call a tow truck. It is a lot cheaper than anything else you can do. The aluminum heads expand and contract at a different rate than the steel valve seats. The valve seats will pop out and cause a very expensive mess in the combustion chamber and cylinder. That is the number one cause of claims for engine failures on the 5.7. He says when they look back at the maintenance history, 85% of those failures had had a recent radiator hose, thermostat, or similar replacement.

2. Don't believe the sales literature that says you can go a long time between oil changes. He says 5,000 miles, MAX!!! He believes that is the real cause for cam and lifter failure.

He says if I follow those two pieces of advice, that HEMI will be with me for a long, long time. I have known him for a long time and his advice has always served me well.

 

[Delta11]

Thanks

 

[Delta11]

Hey! What?

 

[Murphy Slaw]

A quart?

She oughta be clean.

 

[ram1500rsm]

I'll be adding olive oil.

 

[RodeoRam]

I'll be adding olive oil.

 

[tron67j]

For the bouncing, check all of your suspension. Bad shock, broken spring. Could be any corner of the truck. With that many miles, replacing shocks alone are probably warranted.

 

[Dr. Righteous]

I'll be adding olive oil.

No way! Peanut oil! After an oil change you can fry up a turkey!

 

[RodeoRam]

No way! Peanut oil! After an oil change you can fry up a turkey!

That's some good eating, right there. Beats exhaust manifold sardines any day.

 

[Murphy Slaw]

When I was in Louisiana we just pulled oysters off the dock post, cracked em' and added salt.

And beer.

 

[boblonben]

I have a friend who does consulting for Extended warranty companies and when I told him I had a 5.7 this was his response:

1. Watch the temperature gauge and if it goes into the high temperature area, IMMEDIATELY shut the engine down. DO NOT attempt to make it to the next exit. Call a tow truck. It is a lot cheaper than anything else you can do. The aluminum heads expand and contract at a different rate than the steel valve seats. The valve seats will pop out and cause a very expensive mess in the combustion chamber and cylinder. That is the number one cause of claims for engine failures on the 5.7. He says when they look back at the maintenance history, 85% of those failures had had a recent radiator hose, thermostat, or similar replacement.

2. Don't believe the sales literature that says you can go a long time between oil changes. He says 5,000 miles, MAX!!! He believes that is the real cause for cam and lifter failure.

He says if I follow those two pieces of advice, that HEMI will be with me for a long, long time. I have known him for a long time and his advice has always served me well.

On the valve seat thing, that problem pretty much went away with the 2010 and after 5.7L Hemis. The earlier ones did have a heat caused problem under certain siotuations. So the advise if good for the early years, not so much for the later years. cheers

 

[RAM08110719]

With a suspension issue like that. I would get that taken care of before your next oil change. That could end your truck right there.

Have you ever heard of motorkot?

That stuff has given my engine a new life. It is a synthetic additive. How silent my engine is now. The RPMs are lower at all speeds. The engine is running smoother.

A lot of videos are out there about motorkot. All I found are positive.

I would change oil before 5k. When you check the oil level. Change it when it looks bad. I do it every 2k.

I use the trip odometer to time miles between oil changes.

Happy miles.

 

[CYSTemrebel]

Over 330,000 km now on 2008 2500 5.7 work truck. Nothing but basic maintenance as in replacement of worn/failed parts. Still have original rad, water pump, fuel pump but on second starter, front end components, alternator, serpentine, plugs, oil pan, a few bulbs, parking brake release handle, battery. Switched to synthetic a little over 100,000 running 10W30 but next change will go to 10W. Longevity manoevre? Never run over 1000rpm until engine heat gauge needle passes first marker and no exceeding 50mph until indicator just under gauge halfway point which is totally warmed. Always did that on every vehicle I owned, including motorcycles and new purchases found me running a lengthy running in period. I see people cold start, rev engine, take off like a scared cat long before vehicles are at normal operating temperature. Never did that. Never will. The only reason I take vehicles out of service is when frame has deteriorated and is unsafe. Stable includes 1979 Chev van, 2006 Crown Victoria, 1976 one ton 4WD Chev truck, 1977 Blazer, Suzuki PE 250, 1948 KB International truck tractor, etc All run but 1948 stored and not run for several years. All are used on road except Blazer undergoing whole cab/tub replacement. Look after vehicles, they will look after you.

 

[Tadpole]

My truck would jump around when going over a bump while in a turn. Turned out to be the left front shock, it had completely failed. Installed new font shocks and problem gone!

 

[JS4024]

Sorry not a fan of marvel.... might do better putting a can of seafoam in and let it idle for 15 mins.... but sounds like u might have the ole death wabble. Warn ball joints and maybe your steering dampener is no longer dampening....