84 w150 engine build

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Marksman

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300 isn't too bad for a new one. I could probably manage that.

R/T off of a Dakota or the like? How many miles are on them? I bet shipping from Canada would cost a pretty penny. They would be good for an la even, just have to buy the right stuff.

The edelbrock carbs are carter AFB's with their name on them. They bought the rights when carter went under. They are easy to work on but I haven't had much luck tuning them right.

I think I should just build the 360 that I have and park the magnum idea for right now. It's in good shape and doesn't need anything but rings so I couldn't really justify buying another engine unless it was dirt cheap.. I may build one in the future for my d200 though. My 17 year old unemployed budget doesn't really allow for a whole lot.

Cam suggestions would be appreciated. I found this one: http://ebay.to/1ENKgBV Says it's a 340 cam but operating range is 1200-5200... Don't know if that's low enough but the price is certainly right.

The Thermoquad (which I got for $12 off of eBay) has great throttle response and doesn't smell rich at all. Just some linkage isn't pulling the secondaries stuck. Come to think of it, both of my Thermoquads did the full throttle thing..

Thanks!
 
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Cheap enough. What kind of HP/Torque do you think it would be capable of? I know low end torque would be good. I'll see if I can find anything on it as far as rpm range.
 
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Oh and RonJon, it's kind of messed up to come into someone else's thread and try to steal their deals.
 
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Depends on the price, I may not. Sorry to jump you like that, it's all good.

Looked up the rpm range on that cam. It's 1200-5000. What makes it different than the one I listed? What determines how good the low end torque is? I mean, I know it has to do with the lift and duration, but what values are good?
 

RonJon '06

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No problem, I think I just misunderstood your earlier post. Good luck with your build.:favorites13:
 

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Before I get into cam choice I need some info, how do you plan on using the truck? towing? flatlander or in the mountains? stick or auto? willing to install a tq converter or not? These are basic Q's that need to be answered before I or anyone suggest a cam.

For the Eddy carbs I get the tuning kits for them, they have jets, metering rods, springs, this will let you fine tune it to no end. I have been using the 1405 and the 1406 models on SBC and BBC.

With the roller 1.7 adjustable RR's I have a $800 into the heads, they will need to be taken apart and gone through top to bottom. The guy I got them from ran them in Alberta on a race car thats all I know. They have big stainless valves and the springs are good to .600 (I do not have spring psi numbers to offer).

Shipping will not be cheap.
 
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I plan on driving it to school and pulling a car trailer occasionally. It's a 727 and 3.23 gears. I don't want to install another converter, but if I have to I can. They aren't cheap.

Do you buy the kits directly from edelbrock? It had a new 1406 on it when I bought it. They had taken it out of the box and just threw it on. It's on the rebuilt 360 in the d200 now. I would love to get the carb tuned right but I'll hold off until I get the 360 in.

I'll pass on the heads. RonJon, they're all yours.

Thanks.
 
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Thanks for looking. I really appreciate your time. This is my first 'performance' build. I've rebuilt sbc's bbc's and one 318, but all back to stock specs or the performance parts were already included so i didn't have to pick anything out.

Thanks for the link to the calibration kit and the manual.
 

14hemiexpress

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I'm not going to pretend I know everything about cams because I don't, but what I do know is the more lift the more duration the more exhaust overlap ( what gives you that choppy exhaust tone) is really harmful to the low end tq of a engine it really helps the high end rpm range. That's why you need low gears and a tq converter with a stall to make a radical cam "driveable". You can compair the can I listed above to a race cam the duration is a lot lower and the the separation is father apart. The cam I listed was designed with towing in mind, you probably get close to your 300 horse Mark with a set of heads that flow half way decent but you'll make a lot of tq, 280 horse and 350tq seems realistic that that cam and some heads that have been ported a little bit. I might add to shoot for a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio that'll give you a nice balance and a little bit of increase in cylinder pressure of stock.
 

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That's a nice cam also. I will add match your intake and cam on power range it will help create a smoother power band. Like merc225 cam has a power range of 1500-5000 get a intake to match don't get one that's 2500-6500.

This intake would be a good choice for either cam as the operating range covers all of the rpm That the cam operates at. Also it would be a good match with a edelbrock
Carb I beleieve you said you had one laying around.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2176
 
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I plan on redoing the heads and possibly putting 2.02 valves in it. I also am going to have them milled some to get the compression up.

If there isn't much of a performance difference between the cams I will probably go for the cheaper one, just to keep cost low. 280 is a bit less than the 350 I wanted but if it's unrealistic I'll forget my goal.. The torque sounds right on though.

I had planned on using the stock intake off of it for cost sake. I thought it would be a decent torque intake because it is off of a truck. How much performance would I lose by keeping it?

Merc, do you think there is much of a HP difference between yours and the other cam?

Thank you both for your knowledge.
 

14hemiexpress

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His cam will make a littler more hp but I think the one I listed will produce more tq. The cost difference probably has a lot to do with his being a crane, paying for some of the name there. This is a strict guess but I bet the factory intake is a single plane and the ones listed are dual plane with you would leave 10-15 horse and 20 tq on the table. I tried to base my suggestions with your budget in mind. Bigger valves will be worth the money. I would put as much effort into the cylinder heads as possible, a engine is basically a air pump more air you can get in and out the more power you can make. Cylinder heads will determin your power output the cam will mostly determine we're that power will be. ( don't get me wrong a cam will help make more power but heads are were it's at)

You can always use the factory manifold for a while and then add the new one later it's a easy swap in the truck. Save the cash now and spend it on the cylinder heads or other interal parts that will be difficult to change later.
 
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Merc225hp

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I plan on redoing the heads and possibly putting 2.02 valves in it. I also am going to have them milled some to get the compression up.

If there isn't much of a performance difference between the cams I will probably go for the cheaper one, just to keep cost low. 280 is a bit less than the 350 I wanted but if it's unrealistic I'll forget my goal.. The torque sounds right on though.

I had planned on using the stock intake off of it for cost sake. I thought it would be a decent torque intake because it is off of a truck. How much performance would I lose by keeping it?

Merc, do you think there is much of a HP difference between yours and the other cam?

Thank you both for your knowledge.

I figured as much, and those mods will play more into the parts I listed.

The stock intake will hold you back, as posted you can use it for well ever but you are not getting the full benefit from the rest of the parts.


His cam will make a littler more hp but I think the one I listed will produce more tq. The cost difference probably has a lot to do with his being a crane, paying for some of the name there. This is a strict guess but I bet the factory intake is a single plane and the ones listed are dual plane with you would leave 10-15 horse and 20 tq on the table. I tried to base my suggestions with your budget in mind. Bigger valves will be worth the money. I would put as much effort into the cylinder heads as possible, a engine is basically a air pump more air you can get in and out the more power you can make. Cylinder heads will determin your power output the cam will mostly determine we're that power will be. ( don't get me wrong a cam will help make more power but heads are were it's at)

You can always use the factory manifold for a while and then add the new one later it's a easy swap in the truck. Save the cash now and spend it on the cylinder heads or other interal parts that will be difficult to change later.

Simply put it's a package deal, the better the package the better the results.

Edit;Yes the name plays into this a bit but I always go back to the fact that Crane built/supplied most of the Mopar performance line for cam's, rr's, parts like that. To me this plays a roll in things.
 
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I agree, the cost is probably associated with them name, but if its a quality cam its worth it. I think the 2.02 valves will help a bunch but i'm still trying to figure out how much i will mill the heads. I know i will need to get shims for the rockers if I do mill them.

The stock intake is a dual-plane. I will probably use it a while and if i feel its worth the effort i will buy a new one. I currently have less than $300 but with Christmas coming up that will change. I will start buying parts little by little.

I don't want to sound like i'm not taking your suggestions, but how big of a difference is there between the one you (hemi) listed and http://ebay.to/1ENKgBV ? The specs are pretty close to the same. I'm just trying to learn how precise/ or critical the numbers are.

Off subject.. Is my avitar showing up? I see it in the user CP but not next to my posts.

Thanks for input.
 
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