AC not cold during idle but cold all other times

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Jeepwalker

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I feel as if my 2022 classic as could be better both on the temperature side and blower motor power side, I understand it’s a crew cab but my old tahoes ac kicks this things ass, on a 80-85F day I have to have max ac on coldest setting for awhile before cold enough to turn it down. Temp out the vents is 45F give or take, this is with putting a thermometer in the vent same as the dealer would probably do, so not going to bother taking it in. Falls in the good area via post I saw floating around here

2022, huh? Is it still under warranty? Might want to take it in for a look-over. Maybe a pressure switch is flaky, the charge isn't quite right, condenser full of bugs or a blend door actuator not working right. Worth a look-see, might be something simple. At what outside temp did you measure the 45 degrees at?

But like you say, it should still cool your truck down. I use 3 or 4 refrigerant probe sensors when I check AC temps. Two in each center vent. The accuracy of the cheap little temp gauges isn't great. I've seen them in the store where half of them read a couple degrees off from the rest (sometimes more than a couple degrees). One of mine is a couple deg off too. But my other 3 are on the money. I had to go through several sensors to find ones which read the same. So there's always the possibility your discharge temp is better (or worse). Maybe the actual discharge temp is 48 (...or 41*).

LOL
 
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jerbo1978

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Besides the fan it could be slightly low on refrigerant, or even a slight amount of moisture in the system. See how it performes once the fan is operating properly. Hopefully that'll do the trick. Did you put any thermometers in the dash vents going down the road to measure the output temp?
No I didn't but it just feels like room temp
 

04fxdwgi

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If the condenser fan (clutch fan or electric) wasn't running while vehicle isn't moving in hot ambient air conditions, then a refrigerant "high head" pressure condition would exist and could have blown the freon charge or possibly damaged the compressor. With a non running fan high pressure condition, the hot gas leaving the compressor as a hot vapor will not hit the condenser and cool to a high pressure liguid. Will stay as a HP vapor . Normally, it is when the the HP liquid hits the expansion valve and the conversion from liquid to vapor is what makes the cold.

Low pressure gas (low charge or low suction pressure) can also damage the compressor as the low gas flow has trouble moving the oil around circuit, causing bad lubrication of the compressor.

Regular AC units have a hi pressure switch that kills the compressor if head pressure gets too high with a dead condenser fan.
 
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04fxdwgi

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Also, sometimes the air mixing door in the duct gets stuck / driver motor goes bad and mixes cold and hot air.
 

PaleFlyer

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The electric fan doesn't come on at all..
If I unplug it from the connector and jump it with battery,it works...
How the heck do you see the fan?

I was looking at my '18's this weekend, and could NOT figure out how to see the dang fan. Had the hood open, but couldn't seen deep enough into the shroud. (didn't try a flash light, had just finished the lawn, and my brain was not fully working as it was hot as frig, and I needed water.)
 

pacofortacos

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How the heck do you see the fan?

I was looking at my '18's this weekend, and could NOT figure out how to see the dang fan. Had the hood open, but couldn't seen deep enough into the shroud. (didn't try a flash light, had just finished the lawn, and my brain was not fully working as it was hot as frig, and I needed water.)
Easiest way to see the fan is to remove the top part of the shroud - however you should hear the efan at idle.
Normally the crank fan will go fairly quiet, then when the AC efan kicks on you can normally hear it.

What is your coolant temp at idle when it's hot.
 

pacofortacos

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My '18 is starting to do the same thing as OP's truck. My Rebel doesn't have shutters. (Factory delete on the Rebel's apparently.) Was starting to think I needed to have the refrigerant swapped/replaced/refilled, but now wondering if maybe my fan has shat the bed. My commute is ~30 miles each way, and the AC still sucks at idle even after 20+ minutes of highway driving. It's Antarctic cold at highway speeds, or even just once I stabilize over ~35MPH for a minute, which makes sense if the eFan isn't doing its job, as that would be enough time for the truck to "blow out" the heat from the engine just sitting in the carolina heat, probably even with NO fans. Guess it's probably a good thing I haven't gotten around to doing the cFan delete yet.
The units really aren't big enough to cool really well at idle with a hot sunny day (a lot of solar effect through the glass) but, is it worse than it used to be?

If it is, can you hear the efan? You should be able to - unless your truck is really loud. If you can't then it might not be turning on OR it's turning too slowly.

Does your clutch fan still give a short roar on cold startup? You should hear it for a few seconds on a cold startup and then it should quiet down and slow down.

I hate to tell you this because it can be DANGEROUS if you don't know what you are doing, but you can actually stop and hold the clutch fan (after initial cold startup) if you know what you are doing and are careful - and then see the efan and if it is on and turning. You should be able to hear a good efan when on.
ONLY do this if you know what you are doing AND after it really slows down at idle - the clutch fan should almost come to a stop at idle - almost, you should be able to see it significantly slow down if it is working correctly.
IF you don't see it slow down significantly from start up or see that it is turning slowly, don't attempt to stop it - if this is the case you should maybe hear it and feel a good bit of air being moved - more than enough to make your AC work as well.
Ideally use something other than your hand and something softer to gradually slow the clutch fan down until it stops. You don't want to damage the fan. Maybe a leather glove or something and barely touch the fan with it.
 

jerbo1978

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Easiest way to see the fan is to remove the top part of the shroud - however you should hear the efan at idle.
Normally the crank fan will go fairly quiet, then when the AC efan kicks on you can normally hear it.

What is your coolant temp at idle when it's hot

Is the compressor clutch engaging?
It cycles very fast
 

BuschLatte420

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2022, huh? Is it still under warranty? Might want to take it in for a look-over. Maybe a pressure switch is flaky, the charge isn't quite right, condenser full of bugs or a blend door actuator not working right. Worth a look-see, might be something simple. At what outside temp did you measure the 45 degrees at?

But like you say, it should still cool your truck down. I use 3 or 4 refrigerant probe sensors when I check AC temps. Two in each center vent. The accuracy of the cheap little temp gauges isn't great. I've seen them in the store where half of them read a couple degrees off from the rest (sometimes more than a couple degrees). One of mine is a couple deg off too. But my other 3 are on the money. I had to go through several sensors to find ones which read the same. So there's always the possibility your discharge temp is better (or worse). Maybe the actual discharge temp is 48 (...or 41*).

LOL
I noticed my temps go down drastically while cruising vs at idle upon further testing. I think she’s all right for a post Covid build lol 80 degrees out on a humid day I can get 45 ish on fresh air and close to 40 on recirculate while driving.
 

04fxdwgi

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If the compressor is cycling on and off (short cycling), it is usually a sign of low gas charge. The low pressure cut out will be cycling it on and off.

Quick check is if the gas discharge line is hot and suction line is cold it is as it should be. Cold sweaty suction line indicates good charge. Heavy frost on suction pressure line can indicate a low charge or wonky expansion valve. If compressor is cycling and line is near ambient temp, very low charge
 

jerbo1978

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If the compressor is cycling on and off (short cycling), it is usually a sign of low gas charge. The low pressure cut out will be cycling it on and off.

Quick check is if the gas discharge line is hot and suction line is cold it is as it should be. Cold sweaty suction line indicates good charge. Heavy frost on suction pressure line can indicate a low charge or wonky expansion valve. If compressor is cycling and line is near ambient temp, very low charge
The thing is I added refrigerant a month ago and the fan still didn't come on..It seemed like without the electric fan running,the refrigerant pressure jumped high.
Compressor actually released pressure from relief valve because it was so high...
Also, I bypassed the auxiliary fan relay which is located on the horn mount on the radiator support and the electric fan comes on.
 
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PaleFlyer

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The units really aren't big enough to cool really well at idle with a hot sunny day (a lot of solar effect through the glass) but, is it worse than it used to be?

If it is, can you hear the efan? You should be able to - unless your truck is really loud. If you can't then it might not be turning on OR it's turning too slowly.

Does your clutch fan still give a short roar on cold startup? You should hear it for a few seconds on a cold startup and then it should quiet down and slow down.

I hate to tell you this because it can be DANGEROUS if you don't know what you are doing, but you can actually stop and hold the clutch fan (after initial cold startup) if you know what you are doing and are careful - and then see the efan and if it is on and turning. You should be able to hear a good efan when on.
ONLY do this if you know what you are doing AND after it really slows down at idle - the clutch fan should almost come to a stop at idle - almost, you should be able to see it significantly slow down if it is working correctly.
IF you don't see it slow down significantly from start up or see that it is turning slowly, don't attempt to stop it - if this is the case you should maybe hear it and feel a good bit of air being moved - more than enough to make your AC work as well.
Ideally use something other than your hand and something softer to gradually slow the clutch fan down until it stops. You don't want to damage the fan. Maybe a leather glove or something and barely touch the fan with it.
It might not be worse than it was last year, but I don't remember if the AC was kind of crap at a light. I know the blower in the truck basically never turns off of high in the dead of summer, even 6 years ago when it was brand new.

The engine definitely is loud AF when it first starts from the fans ramping up, then it quiets down.

I have no intentions of grabbing the clutch fan, but I also assumed it was directly coupled to the "clutch", so it would be 1:1 with the RPM of the engine. Didn't know it was "controlled" as well.

Coolant usually sits between 201 and 204F, even at the lights when the AC is blowing "room temp" air. (IE it's cooler than external, but not the antarctic tornado I get when I'm cruising.)

I get that I likely won't get the antarctic icicle producing frostbite at a light, but it feels like I'm almost getting to the point I would start to sweat, from the poor AC performance, plus all the heat radiating into the truck.

I'm thinking about some Dynaliner (or equiv) when I finally start taking the door panels off for various other mods/work, see if that helps some, as well as some ceramic tint (IE the stuff that basically is optically clear, but blocks some extra IR/UV to help keep the truck cooler.)

Which would also likely get done on the headliner when I pull it eventually to "fix" where it isn't sticking properly around the stupid sunroof. (I HATE that you have to have a sunroof if you get basically anything above like a BigHorn.)
 

jerbo1978

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The thing is I added refrigerant a month ago and the fan still didn't come on..It seemed like without the electric fan running,the refrigerant pressure jumped high.
Compressor actually released pressure from relief valve because it was so high...
Also, I bypassed the auxiliary fan relay which is located on the horn mount on the radiator support and the electric fan comes on.

RELAYLOCATION.jpg
 

pacofortacos

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The thing is I added refrigerant a month ago and the fan still didn't come on..It seemed like without the electric fan running,the refrigerant pressure jumped high.
Compressor actually released pressure from relief valve because it was so high...
Also, I bypassed the auxiliary fan relay which is located on the horn mount on the radiator support and the electric fan comes on.
That's usually a sign that the expansion valve is stuck and/or your receiver dryer is plugged.
 

pacofortacos

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It might not be worse than it was last year, but I don't remember if the AC was kind of crap at a light. I know the blower in the truck basically never turns off of high in the dead of summer, even 6 years ago when it was brand new.

The engine definitely is loud AF when it first starts from the fans ramping up, then it quiets down.

I have no intentions of grabbing the clutch fan, but I also assumed it was directly coupled to the "clutch", so it would be 1:1 with the RPM of the engine. Didn't know it was "controlled" as well.

Coolant usually sits between 201 and 204F, even at the lights when the AC is blowing "room temp" air. (IE it's cooler than external, but not the antarctic tornado I get when I'm cruising.)

I get that I likely won't get the antarctic icicle producing frostbite at a light, but it feels like I'm almost getting to the point I would start to sweat, from the poor AC performance, plus all the heat radiating into the truck.

I'm thinking about some Dynaliner (or equiv) when I finally start taking the door panels off for various other mods/work, see if that helps some, as well as some ceramic tint (IE the stuff that basically is optically clear, but blocks some extra IR/UV to help keep the truck cooler.)

Which would also likely get done on the headliner when I pull it eventually to "fix" where it isn't sticking properly around the stupid sunroof. (I HATE that you have to have a sunroof if you get basically anything above like a BigHorn.)
That all will probably help a decent amount.

The clutch fan is a viscous clutch, so it slips (after the initial start), then will engage fairly hard to a 1:1 drive (similar to cold start) when the temp on the fan gets around 220+ something - depending on year, etc. You may hear and feel it sometimes when you pull out after sitting at a long light on a really hot day. Other time is when you restart on a really hot day after just shutting the engine off for a minute or so.

Since your coolant is at that temp at a light on a hot day, it's not the clutch fan and it sounds like it's working ok.
Could be a slower efan if you don't hear it.
Or, could be a bit of a charge issue - which is easily corrected by draining, pulling a vac on the system and recharge with the correct charge - costs some $$ though. You could try adding a little bit by yourself pretty cheaply and easily though.

I missed it if you ever said that you can hear the efan or not.
 

pacofortacos

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If it is one of these ,How do I fix either of those things
You have to drain the system, replace those 2 parts (rockauto shows them), have the system pulled into a vacuum and recharged. Pulling the vac. is the hardest thing for home repair.
 
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