Alignment... Caster Issues after Bilstein 5100 Install

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Hi guys, new to this forum but I have done a ton of searching on this topic. I have a 2012 Ram 1500, Outdoorsman (comes from Canada).

I'm posting in the lifted section because I have been told that my issue is common among trucks that are lifted higher than just using Bils.

Over the weekend, I installed new lower control arms from Detroit Axle, New Tie Rod Ends, and Bilstein 5100 set at 2.1. The rear of the truck is stock. Upper control arms are Mevotech, recently done this year. Lower control arms and struts were not tightened until vehicle was set down.

Today I brought the truck to a popular chain for an alignment where I have lifetime alignment. After about 2 hours, the tech came up to me and said that he was able to set toe and camber within spec but could not get the caster where it needed to be. I had about 0.8+ on one side and 1.3+ on the other. They showed me this on a printout. The tech told me that every time he would get the caster close the camber would be thrown off. I left and I drove the truck and it felt okay and drove straight but it felt a little light up front and i had virtually no steering wheel return after turning.

I found a very highly rated truck alignment shop in my area that has been in business for a long time. I made an appointment and went. They told me when they got the truck on their rack, I had negative caster on one side and 0.2+ on the other. They told me the previous place's computer may have been off but their computer is new and accurate. They were able to get the caster to match just under 1+ degree on both sides giving me a positive caster but still way out of spec as spec is between 3 and 4 degrees. He told me that it was completely maxed out. He did mention that he could not increase caster without the camber being thrown off . The shop said that this is common on trucks that have lifts/ leveling kits as the higher you go the more you lose in caster adjustment. The truck actually feels better after leaving this second shop it does not feel as "floaty" but I still have almost no steering wheel return after completing a turn.

I know a lot of guys run the Bils at 2.1 which is nothing serious by a long shot. I was told my only option is to get upper control arms made for a lift which will allow for more adjustment ( I would need this explained as how it will help).

Also, besides the way the truck feels (which I can get used to) are there any other potential issues that I may run in to by just leaving the truck alone the way it is.

Thank you to anyone in advance
 

Gary2

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2.1 don't seem tall enough to not be able to get it right. My 14 had 2.1 Bilstein and the place I took it did it in no time and had no issues. I did have a print out years ago when he did it and it was good.
 
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2.1 don't seem tall enough to not be able to get it right. My 14 had 2.1 Bilstein and the place I took it did it in no time and had no issues. I did have a print out years ago when he did it and it was good.

Yes that seems to be the consensus on here , the truck drives straight the only thing is having almost no steering return. I may leave it as is, and try another shop down the road after the suspension settles in.
 

Gary2

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No steering return is lack of caster. Caster is what makes a truck almost steer itself as far as not needing constant attention not relaxing at all not needing constant steering correction when all else is right 3.5-4.5 degrees is good.
 

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I have mine set @ 2.8 with all stock suspension and my local alignment shop didn’t have any problems aligning it.
 

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I saw one thread a while ago where someone installed the left and right upper control arms on the wrong side... it "worked" but they couldn't get caster within spec.

Double check yours for that?
 
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A quick search shows the Mevotechs have two different part numbers for right and left, I wonder if there are any noticeable L or R markings on them?
 

Tim Garceau

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Yes, one Mevotech Upper control arm has an L IIRC.

Do you have oversized wheels or tires? Find a better alignment shop, most only have lasers to spec the OEM setup.
 
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Tires are 265 /70/17 BFG. Here are pics of the UCAs. I don't see any L or R markings anywhere just some cast marks. One side has them on top one side doesn't.

I think this may be the issue because looking at the photos the BJs appear to be more forward on the UCAs and flipping them would put them more backwards on the UCAs increasing caster.

I think...

20190916_221636.jpg

20190916_221741.jpg
 
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I saw one thread a while ago where someone installed the left and right upper control arms on the wrong side... it "worked" but they couldn't get caster within spec.

Double check yours for that?


Just wanted to thank you. After matching my UCAs up to photos of the 2 different part numbers , it appears that I do have the sides switched. Having them flipped places the upper BJ closer to the front of the vehicle, which messes with the caster
 

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Those arms have no way to mount the ABS wire? It’s monday and I’m off the clock. But if they’re backwards would it mess with the ABS wire mount? Seems odd you’d have to zippier the wire to the control arm.
Not sure how yours deal with it. My aftermarket arms had a hole drilled in the side to push the factory plug right into the arm.
 

kurek

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Glad it looks like it will be a (relatively) easy fix!
 
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Those arms have no way to mount the ABS wire? It’s monday and I’m off the clock. But if they’re backwards would it mess with the ABS wire mount? Seems odd you’d have to zippier the wire to the control arm.
Not sure how yours deal with it. My aftermarket arms had a hole drilled in the side to push the factory plug right into the arm.

There is no ABS wire mount anywhere on the UCAs. That would be a great way to tell which side is which if there were. They've been zip tied for quite some time without any issue so when I swap them zip ties will be my go-to again
 
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Alignment completed this morning. Caster set to 3.7+ LEFT and 3.8+ RIGHT. No issues with drivability.

To anyone who may come across this thread, my Mevotech UCAs are from 2017. The only way to tell one side from the other are the casting marks on the control arm. The right front CMS251058 (Pass. Side) control arm will have casting marks on top. The left front CMS251057 (driver's side) control arm has the casting marks on the bottom.

Thank you to the forum for helping me getting this resolved.
 
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I like those JBAs, the ball joints are bolt in and not pressed-in? I may consider those once my uppers go.
 

kurek

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I went with the Readylift 67-1500 arms on my '15, no complaints about them and they have the little hole to accept the ABS wire retainer clip.

The key in any case is to lay the new arm on top of the OE arm and compare where the upper balljoint is; really that works with any repair/replacement whether it's same as OE or aftermarket give them a visual dry fit before committing. I'm not immune to hasty assembly and have had to re-do work a few times myself :D
 

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I like those JBAs, the ball joints are bolt in and not pressed-in? I may consider those once my uppers go.
Yes ball joints bolt on. Replacement ball joints made by JBA are about $60. But you could also use a Moog ball joint if you need one right away. In one of my threads I showed the amount of movement the JBA has compared to stock. JBA’s have 90’ of movement
 

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