AMI Swing Step Bull Bar WILL FIT your GEN 4 Express/Sport

[GIJoe2010]

So I got this for father’s day 2017

https://www.carid.com/ami/flat-black-powder-coat-swing-step-mpn-19285k.html

and have yet to put it on as all sources say “will not fit Express or Sport models with plastic bumper.”

Well guess what?!

I have done it. Even mocked up, it looks badass. I will have a write up within this thread as well as possibly adding to the DIY section.





And I will be modifying the OEM tow hooks and attempting to retain them as well.

 

[69GWC]

Yeah looks great man, I seen them and thought I would like to have it on mine but like you said they state it does not fit.
Glad you have it on there I will haft to lookbat these again.

 

[JB1]

If your tow hooks were moved outward like mine would that allow you to keep them with the bull bar?

 

[GIJoe2010]

I mocked them when setting up the bull bar and they could be used, but definitely need to be moved outward an inch or 2.

@JB1 how did you get them outward from the OEM position?

 

[JB1]

I made some custom 316ss relocation brackets that replace the oem tow hook bracket, I have an extra set.

 

[GIJoe2010]

PM sent @JB1

 

[JB1]

Here’s a couple pics so you can see if that’s far enough over

 

[GIJoe2010]

That’s perfect. I’ve already cut out a good portion of the lower bezel to fit the hooks and bull bar brackets anyway.

 

[13ram1500crew]

Looks great, i like that.

 

[shadowhawk]

I've got a body lift, so I can't use tow hooks anyway. Sounds like I can add this to my list of wants.

which brackets did you buy?

 

[GIJoe2010]

The brackets were just for the standard 1500. They fit all 1500s with the exception of the Sport/Express. Here’s the link:

https://www.carid.com/ami/swing-step-mounting-bracket-mpn-19285-402.html

I did have to cut and modify them as the upper tabs were in the way of the backside of the bumper and frame where they meet. I will post pics shortly.

 

[GIJoe2010]

So here we go. I’m not gonna repeat what the bull bar looks like (scroll up) but here’s some initial pics of parts to modify.

I will warn you, all modifications were done using simple hand tools (grinder, drill, Dremel, ratchets, etc). If I had the skills and access to a welder I’m sure this would be a bit different. This is an “average guy DIY” type install, so your experience and means of install may vary.

Modifying the lower valance. I had already cut out for OEM tow hooks. I had to extend it out as pictured on both sides. Once you reinstall it the bull bar brackets do not touch the bumper nor valance.

 

[GIJoe2010]

Next the brackets. I had already cut and modified them prior to these pics, so use your imagination on the first pic. As you can see in the first 3 pics what I had to cut off to fit. Your experience and plan of attack of attachment may vary.

On the 4th pic, once I had modified the bracket enough to Mock up install, I drilled out the lower hole to 10mm to match the OEM bumper carriage bolt. The hole is centered between the bottom and the opening above, and 5/8” on center from the left.

The upper hole is centered between the top and the opening below, 11/16” on center. I goofed it, as I was trying to keep them in line, but it still works.

 

[GIJoe2010]

In the first and second pic I used a cut off wheel to ensure both portions of the bumper mount were true/squared up on the inboard side.

In the 3rd is the (passenger side) mounted using OEM carriage bolt (bottom) and a supplied grade 8 bolt/washer and nylock nut (top). Even with 2 (close) mounting points, it’s very sturdy and rigid.

Also, of note, I mounted the bracket using just the OEM carriage bolt and ensured it was as close to perpendicular to the ground and used a punch to get the center point to drill the upper mounting hole in the bumper mount/frame.

Also, in order to mount the bracket you need remove the retaining washer that’s sandwiched between the 2 halves of the bumper mount. I just hammered out the carriage bolt, then used a flat head screwdriver to split the mounting plates and used some needle nose pliers and stripped it out.

 

[GIJoe2010]

Also, if you can use your imagination, in the last pic, you can see the upper mount point which I cut off from the bracket. These will most likely be retained on any other model with a metal bumper i.e. NOT an Express/Sport.



More to follow ...

 

[GIJoe2010]

Continuing on ...

Here we have the brackets mounted on the frame/bumper mounts and protruding through the lower valence (with surround removed)

As you can see they are approximately 27” apart, outside to outside.

 

[GIJoe2010]

The brackets are also located inboard 10.5” to 11” from the outer edge of each opening.

Again, depending on your way of attaching this your measurements may vary slightly.

 

[GIJoe2010]

Next, I’m holding the bull bar up (by myself) to show that there is about a 1/2” gap on each side of the brackets to the bar. I could just use longer bolts and spacers or washers to make up the space but there wouldn’t be much surface area to hold on to.

This is where your 1” x 1/2” channel steel comes into play.

 

[GIJoe2010]

Using the bar and brackets, I determined that there is about 4-5” of surface area that needs to mate between them. So I took the difference and cut two 4.5” pieces and used the bracket as a template to create the spacers.

As you can see, I aligned the top edge of the spacer and the bracket, I then clamped them together to mark off the slots in order to make matching slots in the spacers from the brackets.

 

[GIJoe2010]

The brackets (now painted), from top edge to top of slot is 1/2”, the length is 1” and width is 10mm.

Of which I will be using these bolts with washers and nylock nuts.





Yes, the cuts are crude but effective. I was using a simple hand drill, Dremel and file to create the slots. Each spacer is driver and passenger side specific.