AmsOil Signature vs Penns Oil Platinum?

[hemihustlin]

"Cheap" is realative as well. 8$ a quart for ultra platinum would be an epic deal in canada
I dont know how much its selling for at my local dealer but isnt every dodge dealer stocked with platinum and ultra for the SRTSs?
I know at my dealer they have a sign on the wall explaining the advantages of syn and saying "ask your service advisor for a plainum or ultra platinum oil change today!"

Also the regular platinum is GTL as well, just to be clear.

 

[LABIGHORN]

I've read plenty about oil over the years. I don't even pretend to know as much as Burla or Syn on the subject. Hell they have probably forgotten more then I have yet to know. But I have read my share of articles and columns and have come to my own conclusions. I use penzoil platinum because my truck seems to like the stuff. And it's readily available. I chimed in on another topic about break in periods on new trucks yesterday and my old company truck ( a tundra) and a few Rams in the company fleet running Hemis in severe service gave well into the 400000 km range on good old 5w20 over the counter cheap conventional oil. And I might add the changes were not always on schedule. My tundra and my buddies dodge started at 6:00am and seldom shut off till 9:00pm at night during the summer months at least 5 days a week. Some of those days were idling for hours on end next to a dust haul road. I choose to run penzoil platinum because I know it's a good oil. I can afford to and I'm comfortable with its ability to deliver. Does my truck NEED it. No not for the way I drive. But I sleep better at night.



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[SyN]

Labighorn: I don't know very much at all! All i know is experience and what I have seen and read on actual documented paper... Other is just Hope and Speculation! Which does not count for squat.

I highly respect Burlas opinion and thoughts.... I just will never believe there is a BEST oil. Just me! Like stated there are just way to many variables to even make that statement in my very simple opinion.

If you have that Warm Fuzzy Feeling at Night when you go to bed at night that is all that matters....

This is one of those topics that can go on forever... But I will stay out of it from here on... I have spewed out all the BS I can... Mind you all the #$%^& that I spewed was just my honest thoughts and opinion nothing more.

 

[Burla]

If you have that Warm Fuzzy Feeling at Night when you go to bed at night that is all that matters....

This is one of those topics that can go on forever... But I will stay out of it from here on... I have spewed out all the BS I can... Mind you all the #$%^& that I spewed was just my honest thoughts and opinion nothing more.

So true.

But you have a lot to add and many new guys will always benefit from the information. What seams to be us walking on a mouse wheel is helpful to newer members. We read all the white paper because we are interested, new guys generally wont go to that extreme. Stay in the game.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Nothing wrong with platinum, but it isn't ultra. Ultra has lower noack by a lot, higher tbn, more zinc, and is GTL. It is harder to find because Penzoil would you rather buy platinum, it is much cheaper to make. They have Ultra just for those wanting the best possible oil they can make even though it costs more to make. Why do you think they don't want you using Platinum in the STR? They want the highest quality in their best motor. You can use Platinum, it is great stuff, but it is NOT Ultra.

pqai VOA's Ultra - Platinum

Look at Platinum spec, no srt spec like Ultra.


Many of us don't want to use the best possible oil, just one that is ok and easy to get. But if you want the best, use Ultra. Buy a couple cases and store it in your garage. It is one of the best deals around at 6 qrts for 48 bucks shipped to your door. I will likely be making this switch as well, at least with one of our vehicles.

Ok, that brings up a good point...and one that I could use some clarification on. On recommendation of this forum, I have been using Penzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w30 and a RP 20-820, with a bottle of lubeguard biotech additive in each change for the last several oil changes in my truck. Got it used at 148k and it has 163k now. Ive been advised that it has a very very slight tick, but it has held relatively steady (maybe a TINY increase in tick-age) for the year and a half that ive owned it.

However, based on the above post... is there a significant difference between Penzoil Platinum HM, and non-HM Penzoil Ultra Platinum? Still going to continue using the RP filter, and probably the Lubeguard additive.

BUT... In the pursuit of keeping any ticking eliminated and long term maintenance should I be looking at something else? Is the Platinum HM worth using in an engine with 163k or will I see more benefit from using the Ultra Platinum? Or Amsoil?


Im getting ready to do another oil change, and now have questions!!! You guys are significantly wiser than I am, and I'd love any input you can send my way!

 

[Scottly]

Someone said there's a tent revival in here...Turns out, it's an old oil thread revival...

 

[Burla]

Ok, that brings up a good point...and one that I could use some clarification on. On recommendation of this forum, I have been using Penzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w30 and a RP 20-820, with a bottle of lubeguard biotech additive in each change for the last several oil changes in my truck. Got it used at 148k and it has 163k now. Ive been advised that it has a very very slight tick, but it has held relatively steady (maybe a TINY increase in tick-age) for the year and a half that ive owned it.

However, based on the above post... is there a significant difference between Penzoil Platinum HM, and non-HM Penzoil Ultra Platinum? Still going to continue using the RP filter, and probably the Lubeguard additive.

BUT... In the pursuit of keeping any ticking eliminated and long term maintenance should I be looking at something else? Is the Platinum HM worth using in an engine with 163k or will I see more benefit from using the Ultra Platinum? Or Amsoil?


Im getting ready to do another oil change, and now have questions!!! You guys are significantly wiser than I am, and I'd love any input you can send my way!

The latest platinum HM is not terribly impressive imo. This from two months ago. So the one thing to take away is everything is always changing with modern oil specs. And the other thing are those chnages aren't that impressive and to combat these sparce formulas consider a lower interval. However, by adding biotech it does bring this oil up to what we would say is more stout. But, 5w30 that is under 9 visc and tbn starting at 5, we would say - junk to be honest. I would run costco kirkland 5w30 over this to be honest. Look at this oil, great index two points higher starting visc and double the moly and is the cheapest synthetic out there in price, no poor quality at all.

If you want a long oci and best tick fighter, the expensive redline 5w30 is hard to beat if you can even beat it. However, 83 bucks per 6 been on amazon for over a year, is pretty steep. But you can likely get double the interval as that PHM and have the best protection at tick and with that filter you can easily make the oil pay for itself. If pennzoil is working at keeping tick away and it is pup with lubegard, there is an oil saying if it aint broke dont fix it, but I'd leave that HM alone to be honest.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Yeah... not looking to pinch pennies at all! Spending a bit more per oil change beats the shirt off buying a new truck! No doubt there.


Ill probably keep my oci a bit lower. Ive been doing about 3-4k and if i sitch to redline, may bump that to 5k...but again, unlesssomeone tells me that im a moron for doing that, id rather change more often than buy a new truck.

As far as it "working".... eh? I wouldn't say I've had significantly decreased performance... but it has gotten slightly more noticeable, and certainly no better.

Based on the the other mega thread (when not to use redline) I was trying to stave off using redline until it was necessary, though not necessarily for cost savings alone.

Again, at this point, given that I'm not super concerned about cost savings, would you recommend moving to true PUP, or straight to redline? I believe for 6qt of pup I'm sitting at 65-70 + lubeguard at 12. I'm pretty much already to the cost of redline??

 

[Jwrigh12]

Someone said there's a tent revival in here...Turns out, it's an old oil thread revival...

Yeah.... thats my bad. Didnt notice that till you pointed it out! Amazing how much tunnel vision I can get when going down the rabbit hole!

 

[Burla]

Yeah... not looking to pinch pennies at all! Spending a bit more per oil change beats the shirt off buying a new truck! No doubt there.


Ill probably keep my oci a bit lower. Ive been doing about 3-4k and if i sitch to redline, may bump that to 5k...but again, unlesssomeone tells me that im a moron for doing that, id rather change more often than buy a new truck.

As far as it "working".... eh? I wouldn't say I've had significantly decreased performance... but it has gotten slightly more noticeable, and certainly no better.

Based on the the other mega thread (when not to use redline) I was trying to stave off using redline until it was necessary, though not necessarily for cost savings alone.

Again, at this point, given that I'm not super concerned about cost savings, would you recommend moving to true PUP, or straight to redline? I believe for 6qt of pup I'm sitting at 65-70 + lubeguard at 12. I'm pretty much already to the cost of redline??

Yeah redline 5w30 would be the move, and you can get a uoa with tbn to set the interval. They will use tbn to determine interval so science over feelings, you also get to see particle count (insolubles), wear numbers and any moisture coolant issues. You say you have tick? Now if you want to stay at 5k mile interval, I'm not trying to argue go for it, bet yes you are leaving some meet on the bone there.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Fair enough! Yeah I'll have a uoa done after I change to redline and see where things lie. I'm guessing there's no need to add the lubeguard to redline then either.

Yeah, I believe you were the one that diagnosed it about a year ago actually! Very mild then, and to my ears still so now...but this is a marathon, not a sprint! ...at least I hope.

 

[Burla]

Fair enough! Yeah I'll have a uoa done after I change to redline and see where things lie. I'm guessing there's no need to add the lubeguard to redline then either.

Yeah, I believe you were the one that diagnosed it about a year ago actually! Very mild then, and to my ears still so now...but this is a marathon, not a sprint! ...at least I hope.

no need for biotech..

so biotech makes the tick better with the oil you use?

 

[Jwrigh12]

Just a touch.

The first oil change I did, right after I bought it was with Castrol. Then I found the threads on here. Ive used Platinum High Milage with Lubeguard every oil change since then. Never used PHM without the Lubeguard. I would say it improved the tick maybe 10% initially. But not long term.

Ill probably be swapping to Redline, and will for sure let you know what the results are moving forward.
When switching to Redline, do you anticipate an increase in tick prior to improvement? Or do people usually see a pretty immediate improvement (if any)?

 

[Jwrigh12]

And... forgive me @Burla for absolutely BLOWING up your inbox with this... but I want to make sure Im making the best choice moving forward. (Posting this on here as opposed to PM in case anyone else can get some value from this discussion)

I just went back and re-read the beginning posts of the When NOT to use Redline thread. You mentioned that people with higher mileage (My truck is a 2014 with ~164k) should not switch to Redline without weighing the risks first, as older more worn in components with opened tolerances may make things worse before they get better (Redline's detergent nature cleaning off old deposits and plating before coating components with its own goodness)

Couple questions here:

1. Will this "deposit cleaning/replacement" effect be reduced because I have been using Lubeguard in all my oil changes? (ie - are the additives in the Lubeguard similar enough to what is in Redline to reduce this initial degradation effect/risk)

2. What kind of timeline do you usually see for this cleaning/replacement process? I know every truck is different (based on mileage, history, usage, driving style, etc.), but just trying to gauge some semblance of a baseline here?

3. In a situation like this (Truck with 160k+ miles, 2-3 out of 10 on the HEMI tick scale, PHM with Lubeguard for the last 3 changes) - would you say that the risk is worth it?


Again, thanks for all the help!

 

[Burla]

I dont know the answer to those questions, not even enough to wager a guess. It is very interesting though. If you can post a warm idle tick youtube taken from underneath engine, I can go on from there. The going from lubegard to redline is an interesting experience, we don't have enough of that to wager an real opinion.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Haha! Awesome! Sounds like Ill be a test case then! Ill see if I can get a video up Asap

 

[Jwrigh12]

@Burla here's that video I promised

Diagnosis of a Hemi Tick Pt. 2

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtu.be

 

[Burla]

@Burla here's that video I promised

Diagnosis of a Hemi Tick Pt. 2

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtu.be

In the future, all you need to do is put phone under the truck, this has been the best way to capture tick sound. If I am grading ticks, I would say that is a 4-5 on the burla tick meter, mine was a 9-10. It's not all good news, lesser ticks can often take longer to quiet as they lack pressure of the harder ticks. But if that were my truck I would try 5w30 redline and the rp 20-820 for sure.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Not exactly what I wanted to hear (about it being a 4-5 on the scale), but all is certainly not lost! 6qts of Redline should be here tomorrow, and I still have a couple more 20-820's in the stash! Ill change it out, and report back what I find. One more tally for the benefits of Redline hopefully!

 

[Burla]

Not exactly what I wanted to hear (about it being a 4-5 on the scale), but all is certainly not lost! 6qts of Redline should be here tomorrow, and I still have a couple more 20-820's in the stash! Ill change it out, and report back what I find. One more tally for the benefits of Redline hopefully!

It's not bad at all, you just hear a little of that sewing machine rasp. If you had more of a knock then a tick, that is bad hemi tick. When I first tried redline I thought it was a mistake, tossing away good money. The famously in 500 miles the truck went dead silent, and that goes with the science of plating, you need to survive the heat and have time and pressure for these EP additives to plate. Now we know it can kill tick right away, but it can take 500-1700 miles for best results, it all depends on variables of the tick. The heavy hemi ticks will create more pressure which makes those ep additives plate sooner, lesser ticks generally speaking are safer on the cam lob. You can look at hemi 395's uoa's and tests, he really should have his own thread. You see lesser ticks like his once you get that tick out of there the wear numbers are incredible.