Audio upgrade to a 2014 Ram 1500 Big Horn - looking for some install advice.

[metalmancpa]

graygoose can answer that for sure. I thought i read it wouldn't be beneficial to swap out the stock speakers with the soundstage system.

I believe the SubStage doesn't amp the stock speakers like the PowerStage does, so speakers would still be powered by the head unit. With that I would think with the SubStage route that upgraded speakers may make the overall sound less muddy. I guess the amp in the PowerStage compliments the head unit for better sound?

 

[troutspinner]

The stock head unit does not have an amp other than what is internally producing power inside the radio.

The front speakers (door and dash) are wired together and are receiving a full signal. The 8.4a or RA3 is straight forward, nothing goofy going on with signal splitting and are full range. The rears are also full range.

 

[metalmancpa]

The stock head unit does not have an amp other than what is internally producing power inside the radio.

The front speakers (door and dash) are wired together and are receiving a full signal. The 8.4a or RA3 is straight forward, nothing goofy going on with signal splitting and are full range. The rears are also full range.

Thank you. That is important to know (although it differs from "some" other research which states there is some sort of crossover is going on). It makes sense because I have read people happy with just dropping new 3.5's in the dash and saying it helps the sound, which could only be true if full range.

I am going to a local installer next week to discuss and get input. One thing I didn't think of was the age of my equipment, all well over a decade old. It may not make sense to incorporate older stuff but instead do entirely new route. Electronic do eventually fail. I have one other potential money saving thought. Instead of the 500/5 type amp I had in the 300, I could get a smaller less expensive amp to drive components in the front and a sub. I can replace the rears with 2-ways amped by the head unit since the rears are for effect/fill only.

 

[adurm]

If you go the hertz route, you will not be disappointed with the sound but they like power. Like 100-150 watts at least. Very solid mid bass.

 

[metalmancpa]

i was going to say that the powerstage is designed to use the stock speakers so if you went that route don't spend money on upgrading the doors and dash speakers.

This honestly doesn't make sense to me. I thought in the auto sound world that ANYTHING was better than stock. Just moving to a decently built inexpensive replacement should enhance the sound regardless of what the Powerstage is designed for, at least that's what I believe.

If you go the hertz route, you will not be disappointed with the sound but they like power. Like 100-150 watts at least. Very solid mid bass.

One place I've been chatting with uses Hertz. He was suggesting to use my 500/5 amp and clean sweep which has plenty of power. But I am now balking at using any of my old equipment in the Ram. For Hertz speakers and sub with my own equipment, a rough over email quote of $2,500. That's just out of my league right now, plus I would not spend that money knowing the meat of the system is my amp.

 

[TomT]

Those JL amps are not bad at all. I'd go with your existing amp and processor for the initial install. You can always change those out down the road if you're not happy with the results. Just go big on the wiring (especially power) so you're covered no matter what you change to in the future.

There's a good chance you could wind up with two amps (4 channel and a separate sub amp) in the future so have them use a power distribution block even though you only need one for now.

 

[adurm]

$2500?! Get the gear and come to my house in fl. We will knock it out in a day in the garage. No charge.

 

[troutspinner]

Thank you. That is important to know (although it differs from "some" other research which states there is some sort of crossover is going on). It makes sense because I have read people happy with just dropping new 3.5's in the dash and saying it helps the sound, which could only be true if full range.

Trust me on this one, full range, all 4 channels. I know what you mean by conflicting research though. Many people want to give opinion on the internet because they've worked on something similar but these radios version to version and car model to car model differ. In this case, you and I have identical years, radios and trim level.

 

[quietpeen]

I believe the SubStage doesn't amp the stock speakers like the PowerStage does, so speakers would still be powered by the head unit. With that I would think with the SubStage route that upgraded speakers may make the overall sound less muddy. I guess the amp in the PowerStage compliments the head unit for better sound?

Sorry I read that wrong and thought you meant powerstage. Yes if you add the substage it does not amplify the other speakers.

 

[BigDogg795]

I would do the powerstage in a heartbeat if it worked for aftermarket speakers...or at least the Kicker speaker upgrades. It annoys me I can turn the volume up to 38 and still have a conversation with my passenger without having to yell lol.

 

[Veritas726]

Dash speaker replacement video

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uhbjaDKAgaE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[metalmancpa]

The installers idea (he will email details in a day or two) is to use my JL Audio 500/5 amp because he says it has great sound. He would either use the clean sweep or a newer type of signal cleaner. He would drop 3.5's in the dash and components for the front. He would place the tweeter on the pillar as he feels the dash placement is too far separated from the woofer in the door, and the 3.5's in the dash would augment the front sound stage. Sub under one of the rear seats. He would mount the amp under the rear seat (would lose the cargo floors) because the amp gets hot and behind the seats have very little air circulation.

My problem will be $'s. Just found out my wife's car blew a fuel pump so that will run close to $1k to fix. The absolute cheapest route I would go would be to drop Infinity 3.5's in the dash and get the Kicker Substage while leaving all door speaker stock.

 

[TomT]

If you go with the 3 way front components, ask your installer about putting the tweeters in the sail panels. It's an easier install than in the A pillar and should save you some money.

I have mine there and they sound great.

 

[adurm]

The amp should fit fine under the drivers seat or passengers if you relocate the jack (if it's stored there in the four door).

 

[metalmancpa]

If you go with the 3 way front components, ask your installer about putting the tweeters in the sail panels. It's an easier install than in the A pillar and should save you some money.

I have mine there and they sound great.

The amp should fit fine under the drivers seat or passengers if you relocate the jack (if it's stored there in the four door).

We discussed under the seat. The amp is huge, so not sure if that and the clean sweep will fit under there.

My fear upon receiving the email will be the expected large cash outlay for the job. If I go the Kicker/3.5" dash way through Crutchfield, that will still cost just shy of a grand, but a custom install may double that. In my case I may have to bite my tongue for lesser quality sound due to funds.

I have read during my research many people satisfied with the Kicker sub, and also just changing out the dash speakers. I won't be "satisfied", but it may have to do. My wife's car put a big hole in my plans.

 

[TomT]

We discussed under the seat. The amp is huge, so not sure if that and the clean sweep will fit under there.

I would strongly suggest putting the amps on the back wall. It's the safest place barring a leak in your rear window (at the point you have bigger issues).

I currently have three amps (soon to be five), power distribution, crossovers, and a processor mounted back there. They are completely out of sight but easily accessed wth the seat fold down mod.

 

[metalmancpa]

I would strongly suggest putting the amps on the back wall. It's the safest place barring a leak in your rear window (at the point you have bigger issues).

I currently have three amps (soon to be five), power distribution, crossovers, and a processor mounted back there. They are completely out of sight but easily accessed wth the seat fold down mod.

The Class A/B amps (my 500/5) get really hot, much hotter than a digital amp. There is no air flow, and trapped heat could potentially do damage to the amp, or so I thought through research.

 

[TomT]

I have had two class AB amps (a large Sinfoni and a small JL) and one Zapco Class D on the back wall for over a year. This includes off roading trips in the Southern California desert and Vegas runs. They've never had a problem with heat.

 

[icetraxx]

I went with the focal 3 way and an nvx 5 channel. I have the amp mounted under the rear drivers seat. I have the 6.75 in the door, the 3.5 in the original dash location, and the 1" tweeter in the door sail panel. My only issue is that the focal 3.5" mid does not fit in the cavity of the stock location. I ended up making a new panel out of 1/4" mdf and have it mounted on top. I am trying to find a grill for it for protection from the sun. I also have a Dq-61 for sound correction before the amp and a Memphis 10" under the passenger rear seat. Sound is awaome so far.

 

[metalmancpa]

Still bouncing this upgrade around. When you're looking at $1k or more, it's serious business

I have looked at the Kicker upgrade (all Kicker speakers + sub), but not fond of that solution because it's a tweeter in the dash which is too far separated from the mids in the front doors. Unless I went with components I think front and dash should be full range.

Crutchfield is an option, but no 6x9's for the fronts per their recommendations. Either Kicker 6.5's or Infinity 5.25's. I think 5.25 is too small for the main front sound stage - would you agree? I could get either the self powered Kicker sub, or a JL Audio Stealthbox. If I went with the Stealthbox, I would need a mono amp. Can you tap into existing wiring with that setup? If I do this myself I want to keep the stock wiring.

I am shying away from an installer because that will run me in the $2k range which is too steep for me.