Banks Monster intake vs others

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I'm considering the Banks Monster intake to replace my heater grid versus other solutions that either delete it or do the Monster. My son is a mechanic, so labor cost is a good beer or two, and some father/son bonding time. Thoughts? I tow a 9k trailer with it mostly, and live at 2500' but more often than not above 5,000 ft. Is it worth it for the Banks? I plan to keep "Betty White" for a long time. 80k miles right now.
 

18CrewDually

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Your going to get the naysayers and tell you don't waste your money and just do a wiggle test at every oil change and a few times through a cold winter.
Then you'll get the guys that have the extra money and see spending $750 now is better than 10s of thousands later at the chance of cylinder 6 swallowing the melted grid geater buss bar fastener.

You need to just do what makes you feel warm and fuzzy. Anything else is static.
 

nlambert182

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Don't waste your money on a name. If you want to do it... by all means do it. But you can get one of these much cheaper and accomplish the exact same thing without paying the Banks tax. That fancy intake horn doesn't flow anything more than factory. (Been proven and easily searchable)

1766178990929.png

I've been a fan of Dave for years until he started hyping up Banks.
 

18CrewDually

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Don't waste your money on a name. If you want to do it... by all means do it. But you can get one of these much cheaper and accomplish the exact same thing without paying the Banks tax. That fancy intake horn doesn't flow anything more than factory. (Been proven and easily searchable)

View attachment 577282

I've been a fan of Dave for years until he started hyping up Banks.

Let it be known though, that kit above does not fully cure the issue since it still has a fastener that can fail in the intake. Also people seem to have issues following directions and properly installing that kit, causing shorts.
 

nlambert182

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That's not a fault of the hardware, that's a fault of the installer. It's still using a form of a glowplug instead of a grid heater, and that glow plug tip can still break off and fall into the intake. There's no real way to completely eliminate the chance of something falling into the intake without just deleting the heater. Ford went through glow plug tips breaking off on the 11-13 Powerstrokes.

If you want a 100% fool-proof way to prevent anything falling into the intake, a full delete is the only way.
 

18CrewDually

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That's not a fault of the hardware, that's a fault of the installer. It's still using a form of a glowplug instead of a grid heater, and that glow plug tip can still break off and fall into the intake. There's no real way to completely eliminate the chance of something falling into the intake without just deleting the heater. Ford went through glow plug tips breaking off on the 11-13 Powerstrokes.

If you want a 100% fool-proof way to prevent anything falling into the intake, a full delete is the only way.
Not a glowplug. It uses a heating element coil that is used on other systems.
 

nlambert182

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Not trying to split hairs, but it is very similar in function to a glow plug. It's a coil inside of a metal tube with ceramic insulation. Both have the capability of breaking off.
 

truck2014

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Your going to get the naysayers and tell you don't waste your money and just do a wiggle test at every oil change and a few times through a cold winter.
Then you'll get the guys that have the extra money and see spending $750 now is better than 10s of thousands later at the chance of cylinder 6 swallowing the melted grid geater buss bar fastener.

You need to just do what makes you feel warm and fuzzy. Anything else is static.
Apparently that wiggle test isn't telling you anything the way that grid heaters assembled in there . IMO the only foolproof method is like for me is just disconnecting at the relay . You can install a device at the relay , so the PCM or whatever thinks it's working , but the power to the grid heater is disconnected .

I don't need the grid heater , my truck very seldom gets started below 40 degrees , and that temperature although it does activate the grid heater it isn't needed . I do the double push on the start button ,which eliminates the truck waiting for the grid heater to do its thing to start ,but supposedly the grid heater is still on .
 

18CrewDually

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Apparently that wiggle test isn't telling you anything the way that grid heaters assembled in there . IMO the only foolproof method is like for me is just disconnecting at the relay . You can install a device at the relay , so the PCM or whatever thinks it's working , but the power to the grid heater is disconnected .

I don't need the grid heater , my truck very seldom gets started below 40 degrees , and that temperature although it does activate the grid heater it isn't needed . I do the double push on the start button ,which eliminates the truck waiting for the grid heater to do its thing to start ,but supposedly the grid heater is still on .

Sounds like you found that warm & fuzzy feeling. Good to hear that's what works for you.
But for the wiggle test, it works for so many others because the plastic insulator that supports the bolt for the grid heater to wire connection is the main common culprit that when the nut fatigues and gets loose, it causes resistance and will over heat resulting in the plastic melting. This melting effect will show and indicate an issue long before the nut arcs enough to melt and fall off.
So the "Wiggle Test" works when done periodically.
 

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I installed the banks monster intake and the boost tubes.. I do love it, except for when it comes to changing the oil filter. The boost tubes are larger and so getting the filter out is a little tight.
 

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truck2014

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Sounds like you found that warm & fuzzy feeling. Good to hear that's what works for you.
But for the wiggle test, it works for so many others because the plastic insulator that supports the bolt for the grid heater to wire connection is the main common culprit that when the nut fatigues and gets loose, it causes resistance and will over heat resulting in the plastic melting. This melting effect will show and indicate an issue long before the nut arcs enough to melt and fall off.
So the "Wiggle Test" works when done periodically.

As said for me disconnecting that grid heater would be my solution "if" I was that worried , but I haven't done anything about it . As far as the wiggle test after reading about it I have checked it , although hearing the pro's ,and cons on it .

I see you have plenty to say about the grid heater ,just what is your " warm ,and fuzzy feeling " ????
 

18CrewDually

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As said for me disconnecting that grid heater would be my solution "if" I was that worried , but I haven't done anything about it . As far as the wiggle test after reading about it I have checked it , although hearing the pro's ,and cons on it .

I see you have plenty to say about the grid heater ,just what is your " warm ,and fuzzy feeling " ????

Wiggle test every oil change. OCI 7500MI.

To add, it's not that I "have plenty to say", but when people like yourself quote me and post, I will often respond.
 
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