Desperately Need Opinions

[DillPickles]

Hey everyone, first post here, desperate need of opinions

I want to share my story and get some advice. Thanks in advance for reading and offering your help.

Background:
I purchased a 2020 Ram 1500 Limited 3.0 V6 EcoDiesel in April 2020 — my first diesel vehicle. Previously, I had high-mileage leases on F150s, which I returned before any problems arose. I opted for the CNA Automotive Preferred Care Plus, the best coverage offered by the dealership at 150,000miles. I drive about 25,000 miles annually, mostly on highways (~20,000 miles), and tow a 23-foot boat a few times a year. I don’t tow heavy campers or heavy trailers, and I rarely encounter steep inclines.

Maintenance & Care:
Despite not being a mechanic, I’ve been meticulous with this truck to maximize its longevity. I never skip oil changes; I’ve kept them within 5,000-7,500 miles. Living in Michigan, I have Krown spray the truck annually. I park in a heated garage during winter, have never been in an accident, and regularly add Hot Shots additives—every other fill-up seasonally, and every 8,000 miles with Extreme Hot Shots. I also plug in the truck when temps drop super low at work

Current Situation:
At 130,000 miles, I recently brought the truck in for an oil change and to address an engine warning light. The dealership informed me I have two bad glow plugs (cylinders 2 and 4), which aren’t covered by my CNA insurance. They mentioned that attempting to replace them might cause a plug to break inside the cylinder head, requiring a costly rebuild.

Dealership Options:

1. Replace glow plugs for $800
2. If plugs break, a cylinder head rebuild costing around $7,500
3. Replace the entire engine for approximately $19,000

I still owe about $16,000 on the truck, with my last payment scheduled for July 6, 2027. This led me to a 1.5-week binge on YouTube, learning all about diesels and mechanics — I’ve learned a lot.

Performance & Observations:
The truck runs fine overall. The engine sounds great. On cold starts, it briefly sounds like it’s starving for air, but that goes away within 10 seconds. I’ve noticed it regenerates more frequently, but only occasionally — usually on the highway, where I drive at around 85 mph until regeneration completes.

Other Options & Considerations:

• Carvana has offered $20,600 for my truck, that's a 5.5k pos equity.
• I’ve been looking at 2500s and used trucks priced between $50k-$65k. New is $60-$85k I’d prefer not to restart a loan for a $50k-$85k truck when I have 1.5 years left on my current loan, which is quite affordable.
• I sat down with the service manager and talked about my options. I can call Ram care and open a case however that will be pinned to the VIN. I also have a contract lawyer as a good friend who can fight CNA for a new engine which is covered. I was told if I was persistant enough something could happen.

Future Plans & Upgrades:
Thanks to Mr. Banks and Daves Engines, If I do purchase a new/used 6.7 Id want to upgrade the engine with recommended accessories to push it beyond 500,000 miles. These include an oil bypass filter, exhaust, diff cover, tuner, and more — many of which aren’t even available yet in the 2026 models. I believe they’ve also fixed the intake air heater so no need for a Monster Ram on 2026 models.

My Question & Request:
There are many options, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Specifically, does anyone know a Michigan-based shop experienced with diesel experience? If I'm going to take a risk with the glow plugs id rather have someone whos been doing it for 20 years and give it the best chance of removal compared to a 23 year old kid at a dealership.

Thanks again for your insights and guidance!

 

[Dennis Shellito]

I had an 83 model Ford F250 with a 6.9L International v8 diesel years ago that went through glow plugs like a tornado through Oklahoma. I changed them myself and never had one act like it was going to break off in the head. If one is afraid of this happening, the person removing the bad glow plug could use an impact wrench on it and "knock" it loose which would not put as much torque twist as a standard socket wrench. I have done this with other stuck bolts and things and it reduces the chance of damage significantly.

 

[diymirage]

dill pickles and Michigan, what are the odds you're in Holland ?
i got a shop there that i trust to replace spark plugs in my 06 F250, that should tell you something

 

[06 Dodge]

Hey everyone, first post here, desperate need of opinions

I want to share my story and get some advice. Thanks in advance for reading and offering your help.

Background:
I purchased a 2020 Ram 1500 Limited 3.0 V6 EcoDiesel in April 2020 — my first diesel vehicle. Previously, I had high-mileage leases on F150s, which I returned before any problems arose. I opted for the CNA Automotive Preferred Care Plus, the best coverage offered by the dealership at 150,000miles. I drive about 25,000 miles annually, mostly on highways (~20,000 miles), and tow a 23-foot boat a few times a year. I don’t tow heavy campers or heavy trailers, and I rarely encounter steep inclines.

Maintenance & Care:
Despite not being a mechanic, I’ve been meticulous with this truck to maximize its longevity. I never skip oil changes; I’ve kept them within 5,000-7,500 miles. Living in Michigan, I have Krown spray the truck annually. I park in a heated garage during winter, have never been in an accident, and regularly add Hot Shots additives—every other fill-up seasonally, and every 8,000 miles with Extreme Hot Shots. I also plug in the truck when temps drop super low at work

Current Situation:
At 130,000 miles, I recently brought the truck in for an oil change and to address an engine warning light. The dealership informed me I have two bad glow plugs (cylinders 2 and 4), which aren’t covered by my CNA insurance. They mentioned that attempting to replace them might cause a plug to break inside the cylinder head, requiring a costly rebuild.

Dealership Options:

1. Replace glow plugs for $800
2. If plugs break, a cylinder head rebuild costing around $7,500
3. Replace the entire engine for approximately $19,000

I still owe about $16,000 on the truck, with my last payment scheduled for July 6, 2027. This led me to a 1.5-week binge on YouTube, learning all about diesels and mechanics — I’ve learned a lot.

Performance & Observations:
The truck runs fine overall. The engine sounds great. On cold starts, it briefly sounds like it’s starving for air, but that goes away within 10 seconds. I’ve noticed it regenerates more frequently, but only occasionally — usually on the highway, where I drive at around 85 mph until regeneration completes.

Other Options & Considerations:

• Carvana has offered $20,600 for my truck, that's a 5.5k pos equity.
• I’ve been looking at 2500s and used trucks priced between $50k-$65k. New is $60-$85k I’d prefer not to restart a loan for a $50k-$85k truck when I have 1.5 years left on my current loan, which is quite affordable.
• I sat down with the service manager and talked about my options. I can call Ram care and open a case however that will be pinned to the VIN. I also have a contract lawyer as a good friend who can fight CNA for a new engine which is covered. I was told if I was persistant enough something could happen.

Future Plans & Upgrades:
Thanks to Mr. Banks and Daves Engines, If I do purchase a new/used 6.7 Id want to upgrade the engine with recommended accessories to push it beyond 500,000 miles. These include an oil bypass filter, exhaust, diff cover, tuner, and more — many of which aren’t even available yet in the 2026 models. I believe they’ve also fixed the intake air heater so no need for a Monster Ram on 2026 models.

My Question & Request:
There are many options, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Specifically, does anyone know a Michigan-based shop experienced with diesel experience? If I'm going to take a risk with the glow plugs id rather have someone whos been doing it for 20 years and give it the best chance of removal compared to a 23 year old kid at a dealership.

Thanks again for your insights and guidance!

I would either sell it or trade it for something better, why risk $7500 if the glow plug breaks off in the head.....

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Hey everyone, first post here, desperate need of opinions

I want to share my story and get some advice. Thanks in advance for reading and offering your help.

Background:
I purchased a 2020 Ram 1500 Limited 3.0 V6 EcoDiesel in April 2020 — my first diesel vehicle. Previously, I had high-mileage leases on F150s, which I returned before any problems arose. I opted for the CNA Automotive Preferred Care Plus, the best coverage offered by the dealership at 150,000miles. I drive about 25,000 miles annually, mostly on highways (~20,000 miles), and tow a 23-foot boat a few times a year. I don’t tow heavy campers or heavy trailers, and I rarely encounter steep inclines.

Maintenance & Care:
Despite not being a mechanic, I’ve been meticulous with this truck to maximize its longevity. I never skip oil changes; I’ve kept them within 5,000-7,500 miles. Living in Michigan, I have Krown spray the truck annually. I park in a heated garage during winter, have never been in an accident, and regularly add Hot Shots additives—every other fill-up seasonally, and every 8,000 miles with Extreme Hot Shots. I also plug in the truck when temps drop super low at work

Current Situation:
At 130,000 miles, I recently brought the truck in for an oil change and to address an engine warning light. The dealership informed me I have two bad glow plugs (cylinders 2 and 4), which aren’t covered by my CNA insurance. They mentioned that attempting to replace them might cause a plug to break inside the cylinder head, requiring a costly rebuild.

Dealership Options:

1. Replace glow plugs for $800
2. If plugs break, a cylinder head rebuild costing around $7,500
3. Replace the entire engine for approximately $19,000

I still owe about $16,000 on the truck, with my last payment scheduled for July 6, 2027. This led me to a 1.5-week binge on YouTube, learning all about diesels and mechanics — I’ve learned a lot.

Performance & Observations:
The truck runs fine overall. The engine sounds great. On cold starts, it briefly sounds like it’s starving for air, but that goes away within 10 seconds. I’ve noticed it regenerates more frequently, but only occasionally — usually on the highway, where I drive at around 85 mph until regeneration completes.

Other Options & Considerations:

• Carvana has offered $20,600 for my truck, that's a 5.5k pos equity.
• I’ve been looking at 2500s and used trucks priced between $50k-$65k. New is $60-$85k I’d prefer not to restart a loan for a $50k-$85k truck when I have 1.5 years left on my current loan, which is quite affordable.
• I sat down with the service manager and talked about my options. I can call Ram care and open a case however that will be pinned to the VIN. I also have a contract lawyer as a good friend who can fight CNA for a new engine which is covered. I was told if I was persistant enough something could happen.

Future Plans & Upgrades:
Thanks to Mr. Banks and Daves Engines, If I do purchase a new/used 6.7 Id want to upgrade the engine with recommended accessories to push it beyond 500,000 miles. These include an oil bypass filter, exhaust, diff cover, tuner, and more — many of which aren’t even available yet in the 2026 models. I believe they’ve also fixed the intake air heater so no need for a Monster Ram on 2026 models.

My Question & Request:
There are many options, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Specifically, does anyone know a Michigan-based shop experienced with diesel experience? If I'm going to take a risk with the glow plugs id rather have someone whos been doing it for 20 years and give it the best chance of removal compared to a 23 year old kid at a dealership.

Thanks again for your insights and guidance!

Banks is snake oil.

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Glow plugs shouldn’t break off in the head. My experience with them has been they will burn off the ends and trash the head and piston(s).
Unless you want a diesel sell and buy a gas truck.

 

[mtofell]

which aren’t covered by my CNA insurance.

Lessons hard learned.... Warranties not backed by the factory are mostly worthless. Full of exclusions and exceptions. If you can get out with positive equity and get away from the situation do it without looking back. What to next? A whole other subject and topic.

 

[star_deceiver]

You took out a 7yr payment plan out on an overpriced truck??? Problem #1.
You bought a non-oem not bumper to bumper warranty??? Problem #2.
You’re still upside down, or at least even, and now you’re facing a potentially very expensive repair which it sounds like you don’t have the budget. Problem #3.

A 23’ boat can be towed by just about anything. So unless you’re putting horribly greasy, rotten, or bulky loads in the box, you don’t need the overpriced truck.
Get out of the forever payment plan mindset. 20/4/10: If you can’t put 20% down, pay it off in less than 4 yrs, with biweekly payments that are less than 10% of your net income, don’t buy the vehicle.

Solution #1: Fix the truck and get rid of it. Break even if you can.
Solution #2: Buy something much more affordable that fits into a budget that will get you out of debt. Pay the vehicle off quickly then set up an account. Put whatever payment money into it and balloon it to over $5000. There’s your vehicle repair safety net.
Solution #3: If you can’t maintain and fix a vehicle yourself, you’re going to be paying someone else 4x the $$$ to fix it for you. Learn some of the simpler things that can keep costs down.
Solution #4: Take your ego out of the purchase. You can find $20k used vehicles that will easily tow your boat on occasion and run fine past 300000miles. Or, get rid of the boat.
Solution #5: Don’t buy any warranty that isn’t bumper to bumper and read the fine print on exclusions very carefully. Most warranties won’t pay for themselves within their time limit. Your own reserve fix it fund is worth its weight in gold.

 

[DillPickles]

You took out a 7yr payment plan out on an overpriced truck??? Problem #1.
You bought a non-oem not bumper to bumper warranty??? Problem #2.
You’re still upside down, or at least even, and now you’re facing a potentially very expensive repair which it sounds like you don’t have the budget. Problem #3.

A 23’ boat can be towed by just about anything. So unless you’re putting horribly greasy, rotten, or bulky loads in the box, you don’t need the overpriced truck.
Get out of the forever payment plan mindset. 20/4/10: If you can’t put 20% down, pay it off in less than 4 yrs, with biweekly payments that are less than 10% of your net income, don’t buy the vehicle.

Solution #1: Fix the truck and get rid of it. Break even if you can.
Solution #2: Buy something much more affordable that fits into a budget that will get you out of debt. Pay the vehicle off quickly then set up an account. Put whatever payment money into it and balloon it to over $5000. There’s your vehicle repair safety net.
Solution #3: If you can’t maintain and fix a vehicle yourself, you’re going to be paying someone else 4x the $$$ to fix it for you. Learn some of the simpler things that can keep costs down.
Solution #4: Take your ego out of the purchase. You can find $20k used vehicles that will easily tow your boat on occasion and run fine past 300000miles. Or, get rid of the boat.
Solution #5: Don’t buy any warranty that isn’t bumper to bumper and read the fine print on exclusions very carefully. Most warranties won’t pay for themselves within their time limit. Your own reserve fix it fund is worth its weight in gold.

Thanks for the response, let me cover a few items

#1 Sticker is 74,000, bought it for 58,000 out the door. 0% APR 60mo with nothing due for 90 days.
#2 This was the only warranty they offered with the dealership
#3 warranty was $2,300 in total for the 150,000miles coverage ($38/mo). Only a few items weren't covered glow plugs was part of it, and I'm sure this is a big reason why. Already spent that $2,300 back in repairs. EGR system had some sensors go bad at ~40k and a couple other items needed replacement that were covered - total repairs estimated so far is ~$5,500
#4 Financially I'm solid, I can afford to buy the truck outright today and quality of life would not be affected. I just cant stomach the fact this problem can cost 700-20,000.
#5 I'm 4,000-5,000 in positive equity if I sell this truck today
#5a. If I do sell this truck what "20k used vehicle that will...run fine past 300,000" do you recommend
#6. Reminder, the truck starts up and runs just fine, and I do really love the truck, even though its 2020 it still feels new because its a limited fully loaded. I am still getting ~25MPG

I guess my question is #1 Is it worth the risk of replacing glow plugs #2 do it just keep driving it and ignore the glow plugs (can it last another 2 years?) #3 do I dump it and find another vehicle, if so what.

My main goal is longevity, I have no egos with vehicles, obviously with a family I'm not buying a tradesman!

 

[Dean2]

Find a GOOD diesel shop and have them replace the glow plugs. If even a good shop break them off, run it like it is. You dont really need to get them out. Other choice, keep running it with 4 glow plugs. Starts and runs fine with the two plugs inoperative so what do you lose.

Other point, removing the head, taking the broken plugs out, and reinstalling the head should not cost anywhere near $7,500 bucks. Even at 200 an hour that is 35 man hours of time, plain ridiculous quote.

 

[Hagar1]

Banks snake oil.

Or Kroil ....... that stuff really works. If it is rusted / seized, it is likely that Kroil will let it loosen.

 

[Dean2]

He was saying that Bank's stuff is snake oil, as in bogus claims. You are correct that a good penetrating oil helps.

Project Farm has 3 episodes testing different ones, very enlightening. I was surprised Kroil scored so low as I used it for years.

Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!

This test demonstrated that not all penetrating oils are equal. Also, paying more doesn't result in better performance. In this showdown, ATF/Acetone mix, Ae...

www.youtube.com

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

He was saying that Bank's stuff is snake oil, as in bogus claims. You are correct that a good penetrating oil helps.

Project Farm has 3 episodes testing different ones, very enlightening. I was surprised Kroil scored so low as I used it for years.

Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!

This test demonstrated that not all penetrating oils are equal. Also, paying more doesn't result in better performance. In this showdown, ATF/Acetone mix, Ae...

www.youtube.com

This^^^^

 

[MADDOG]

If there is no guarantee that a fix can be done without further damage, and it sounds as if the Dealer will not stand behind their work leaving any additional expense to your account, I would suggest you not fix it. Rather, I believe that it's best that you trade it in on a certified used 1500/2500 with the 5.7/6.4L HEMI engine. Here's why I would do exactly that, in addition to the fact that I have already done so this past summer:

1. You have no warranty
2. There appears to be additional exposure to higher repair costs
3. Your mileage is getting high, and more issues will inevitably arise resulting in more repair costs
4. Positive equity in the truck becomes your down payment. If you can, buy down the contract amount with more $ down. If you wait, your potential equity value will drop as the truck gets older
5. Certified used means OEM warranty
6. Get a MOPAR direct extended warranty vs. what dealers offer no matter WHAT they say about it.
7. Either truck will tow your boat easily without strain on the engine and powertrain. I personally favor the 6.4L just because it has more power and towing capacity.

That's just my $0.02 worth on the subject. Good luck going forward with your decision.

 

[star_deceiver]

Thanks for the response, let me cover a few items

#1 Sticker is 74,000, bought it for 58,000 out the door. 0% APR 60mo with nothing due for 90 days.
#2 This was the only warranty they offered with the dealership
#3 warranty was $2,300 in total for the 150,000miles coverage ($38/mo). Only a few items weren't covered glow plugs was part of it, and I'm sure this is a big reason why. Already spent that $2,300 back in repairs. EGR system had some sensors go bad at ~40k and a couple other items needed replacement that were covered - total repairs estimated so far is ~$5,500
#4 Financially I'm solid, I can afford to buy the truck outright today and quality of life would not be affected. I just cant stomach the fact this problem can cost 700-20,000.
#5 I'm 4,000-5,000 in positive equity if I sell this truck today
#5a. If I do sell this truck what "20k used vehicle that will...run fine past 300,000" do you recommend
#6. Reminder, the truck starts up and runs just fine, and I do really love the truck, even though its 2020 it still feels new because its a limited fully loaded. I am still getting ~25MPG

I guess my question is #1 Is it worth the risk of replacing glow plugs #2 do it just keep driving it and ignore the glow plugs (can it last another 2 years?) #3 do I dump it and find another vehicle, if so what.

My main goal is longevity, I have no egos with vehicles, obviously with a family I'm not buying a tradesman!

#1. If you bought this in April 2020 with a 60m loan it should have been paid off already. Something doesn’t add up there.
#2. If you don’t like the thought of potential future expensive repairs, don’t buy a Cummins, Hemi, the new GM 5.3/6.2, Ford, or Tundra.
#2b. An older model 4-runner will live forever as will any Toyota with that V6. Pentastar last forever. Older GM 5.3’s and 6.0 last forever. I’ve seen many a Model-S with high miles and minimal issues.

If you’re still happy with this truck, fix it and pay off the loan. Then keep paying that loan to yourself and don’t touch it.

Reminder that any diesel that doesn’t get worked will give you issues. Any diesel with an intact emissions system will give you issues. Diesel issues are never cheap. The only ecodiesels on this forum with super high mileage get worked hard everyday.

If you get something new, when they’re offering the warranty make sure it’s a true bumper to bumper. If something is excluded other than simple wear items negotiate that to be included. In the finance office: If it’s taxable, it’s negotiable. Work the deal!

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Nothing wrong with a Cummins as long as it’s used as intended. No issues then.

 

[Pull Ya]

ATF and Acetone mixture has been around since I worked at a gas station a long long time ago, when gas was 15 cents a gallon, and you put gas in the new Chevys under the left tail light that folded down. It worked then and still does a great job. I've never used anything else. Wild One would remember how long ago that was---LOL---
Jay

 

[Docwagon1776]

Thanks for the response, let me cover a few items

#1 Sticker is 74,000, bought it for 58,000 out the door. 0% APR 60mo with nothing due for 90 days.

I still owe about $16,000 on the truck, with my last payment scheduled for July 6, 2027

That doesn't add up. $58k OTD at 0% would mean payments of $966, assuming no down payment, and you'd have paid it off in July of this year. Having a pay off date in July of 27 means you financed for 84 months. That would be a payment of $690 and you'd owe just under $14k assuming you already made your November 6 payment. Even if you financed the warranty as well, that's only another $500 on the balance by this point. Either the price isn't actually OTD or you didn't get 0% APR, but either way unless you refinanced it that's not a 60 month loan.

My main goal is longevity, I have no egos with vehicles, obviously with a family I'm not buying a tradesman!

Small diesels are not great for longevity when driven as family vehicles. If you want longevity and a diesel, you want a pre-emissions larger displacement motor. You'll probably end up needing a transmission or two before needing a motor, but if you're not towing or doing anything heavy the transmissions will also last quite awhile. You'll probably need lots of little stuff, depending on model and year, and you're not going to have the new car amenities in something circa 2000...but it'll run forever. Failing that, pre-COVID build Toyota, V8 or V6 either one. Or the Lexus equivalents. Be warned the Toyota tax is real. There's a big market for pre-turbo Toyotas and they aren't making more of them.

 

[Hagar1]

He was saying that Bank's stuff is snake oil, as in bogus claims. You are correct that a good penetrating oil helps.

Project Farm has 3 episodes testing different ones, very enlightening. I was surprised Kroil scored so low as I used it for years.

Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!

This test demonstrated that not all penetrating oils are equal. Also, paying more doesn't result in better performance. In this showdown, ATF/Acetone mix, Ae...

www.youtube.com

The other good stuff is the penetrating fluid from the Chrysler parts department. I've use both that one and Kroil, both I found to be good.
I am leery of ANY consumer report ever since the day I was sitting in a Dentist's office reading a Consumer Report. This was back a lot of years ago but I doubt much has changed in the integrity department. Any the article went on at length on how the automatic transmission in a Dodge was good but the automatic transmission in a Plymouth was bordering on garbage.

 

[diymirage]

I am leery of ANY consumer report ever since the day I was sitting in a Dentist's office reading a Consumer Report. This was back a lot of years ago but I doubt much has changed in the integrity department. Any the article went on at length on how the automatic transmission in a Dodge was good but the automatic transmission in a Plymouth was bordering on garbage.

Ah yes, the age old discussion between the 727 and the 727 (or the 904 and 904 if we use slants)