1st post, 1st diesel owned, 2016 Ram 2500 6.7L , Banks MR Intake install woes

[DrJetranger]

Last Saturday (9/6/25) I began installation of a Banks Monster Ram Intake on my 2016 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins Turbodiesel (42K miles) I purchased in March. A friend/coworker who installed one on his Ram 5500 was helping me. 1st issue, he accidentally broke the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor in half. I ordered one from "Big Smile" for 7AM Sunday delivery. Sunday it turned into 6PM Monday delivery, so I ordered a 2nd one and paid extra for 4AM Monday delivery. 3 hours later the first sensor showed up. Monday, my buddy contacted the L/H battery + with the wrench he was using, and shorted it to ground. Later, when torquing the FRP sensor from underneath he arced the starter hot terminal to ground. Battery checked good with 12.5V.

Completed installation to the fuel sys bleed step, and the fuel leak check, and found that the new FRP sensor was leaking. Removed, inspected, reinstalled, and torqued to 66lb-ft (I think) THREE times and it leaked every time! Amazing, that with that much pressure there's no o'ring, gasket, or anything to help seal it. Finally, we decided to try the 2nd sensor I had, as it appeared to be about .0005 longer. Luckily it did not leak, as I don't think either of us could have done it again. Skip to the end, he left for home shortly after the successful leak check and I finished it to a point where I could drive home from the shop we were using 40 miles away. I pulled out and noticed a CEL, red "lightening bolt" caution, and a "Service electronic throttle system" message. I rechecked all wire harnesses we had disturbed, and found nothing unusual. I got going on the road but it didn't shift right and I could move the throttle varying distances with no response until I floored it and it would accelerate and shift, plus the cruise control worked which got me home using the +\- buttons.

I connected my OBD reader, and I have a P0193 (Fuel Rail Pressure sensor High), P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 High), P0107 (MAP low voltage), P0472 (Exhaust pressure sensor A Low), P040D (EGR temp sensor A High), and a U010C (loss of comm with turbo control module) codes. I'm hoping a throttle realign/relearn and battery matching procedures will do the trick, which I plan to try later today (Saturday, 9/13/25), since the FRP sensor is new and the battery was arced twice.

I appreciate any advice I can get. I love this engine, but like I said it's the first diesel I've ever owned, so my knowledge is very limited. Any thoughts?

 

[Dredger]

Last Saturday (9/6/25) I began installation of a Banks Monster Ram Intake on my 2016 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins Turbodiesel (42K miles) I purchased in March. A friend/coworker who installed one on his Ram 5500 was helping me. 1st issue, he accidentally broke the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor in half. I ordered one from "Big Smile" for 7AM Sunday delivery. Sunday it turned into 6PM Monday delivery, so I ordered a 2nd one and paid extra for 4AM Monday delivery. 3 hours later the first sensor showed up. Monday, my buddy contacted the L/H battery + with the wrench he was using, and shorted it to ground. Later, when torquing the FRP sensor from underneath he arced the starter hot terminal to ground. Battery checked good with 12.5V.

I appreciate any advice I can get.

Don't let your friend touch your truck

 

[DrJetranger]

Haha! Thanks, that's very good advice! I am recovering from neck surgery, so I didn't have much choice. I learned my lesson, though. It won't happen again!

Update: I tried the MIL clear procedure last night and went for a drive. The red "lightening bolt", CEL, and "Service electronic throttle control" message remain, but it is running and shifting much better. The throttle still doesn't respond like it should. I can floor it, and it barely accelerates for several seconds, then slowly picks up speed. I read that a "hard" DTC takes 4 drive cycles to clear if the problem is fixed, but I can't find a definite answer as to what is required for a complete drive cycle.

Also, there's a cable/2 pulley system on top of the EGR system (for valve actuation I'm guessing), opposite the intake horn. Prior to the Monster Ram Intake install I remember seeing it actuate back and forth frequently with the engine running. Last night, I watched it for several minutes and didn't see it move once. This was right after about 30 minutes of highway driving, so the engine was up to temp.

I also have a new Pedal Monster. I'm getting ready to install it and hopefully it will fix the lack of throttle response once I perform the calibration process.

Anyone have any sage advice for me? I'll post another update later today after I get back. Y'all have a good one, and take care!

 

[RamDiver]

Anyone have any sage advice for me? I'll post another update later today after I get back. Y'all have a good one, and take care!

I have very little experience with diesel trucks, but several decades of experience with diagnostics and troubleshooting in electronics.

Fix the acceleration issue before making any more changes.

Something I learned very quickly with electronics is that if you add changes or increase the variables, solving faults will almost always take longer and could involve backing out of unnecessary changes.

Hoping that an additional change will cure an existing fault is a pipe dream.

.

 

[DrJetranger]

Thank you very much. As an avionics technician with 32 years of experience I should know that! There's a big difference between truck and helicopter electronics, but electricity is the same everywhere.

Update 2: The throttle position re-learn didn't have any effect. Heading to the parts store to pick up a better diagnostics tool with code "Delete" and better testing capabilities. The FRP sensor is very difficult for me to see and access, with my neck problems, and I can't tell for sure if the connector is fully seated and locked. I'm gonna recheck it with my video borescope. I would think the engine wouldn't start/run at all though, if wasn't connected. I'll reply later with the results of today's fun.

 

[Gr8bawana]

Your first mistake was wasting your $$$ on Banks garbage. Second mistake was letting that "friend" touch the truck.

 

[Runaround]

If you can, you should always disconnect the batteries while working on your truck to prevent shorting anything like you did.

 

[Daw14]

Thank you very much. As an avionics technician with 32 years of experience I should know that! There's a big difference between truck and helicopter electronics, but electricity is the same everywhere.

Update 2: The throttle position re-learn didn't have any effect. Heading to the parts store to pick up a better diagnostics tool with code "Delete" and better testing capabilities. The FRP sensor is very difficult for me to see and access, with my neck problems, and I can't tell for sure if the connector is fully seated and locked. I'm gonna recheck it with my video borescope. I would think the engine wouldn't start/run at all though, if wasn't connected. I'll reply later with the results of today's fun.

We need feedback to keep this forum on top of things.

Hopefully this will reach you , and you will update us .
Thanks.

 

[Grams]

I ordered the Banks intake during their recent “sale” promo…. and found they actually had none in-stock when they sent me the notice of Future-Shipping.

They were using the promo to Finance production.

I cancelled the order and it took them ten days to issue the credit.

(I actually had not planned to do the install for a couple years when the warranty runs out because no one could tell me if the Banks mod would cancel my warranty.)

I got lucky. I’ve since come to realize that the increased size of the Banks is not effectively utilized by the engine. The only gain I sought was to get rid of the grid-heater issue with later (‘19-‘24) Cummins.
I disconnected the grid-heater power-lead from the relay and that solves that. (When the warranty runs out, I’ll remove the grid heater completely by swapping out that intake-plate with a non-heater plate. The Cummins starts/runs just fine all the way down to freezing ….”don’t need no heaater”. Even if it did, the block heater takes care of that down to minus-ridiculous temps.)