Bilstein 5100

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Tommy Bruise

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Decided to go Bilstein 5100 for a front level. Should I go ahead and get Bilstein’s for the rear? Ride improvement over the stock setup?

Any recommendations on where to purchase?
 

rwhjr

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My 5100s weren’t an improvement over stock as far as ride quality goes, but they got me the extra ride height I was looking for.

I don’t have any major complaints other than the fact that they’re pretty bad when going over bumps etc. you can tell they’re cheap struts accordingly.

But you have to go into installing 5100s with the expectations that their main purpose is just to increase ride height and you’ll be happy.
 

crazykid1994

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I noticed a slight difference. They’re slightly firmer than stock but. In my opinion for me I like it for a road vehicle because it doesn’t bounce after hitting a speed bump or pot holes anymore. I kinda feel more control of the vehicle as well. If you plan on doing serious off-roading than they’re not the greatest but they work for low speed stuff. Than again I’m running 3” of lift front and 1” lift rear with 35s on 18s. Tires and tire pressure play a huge roll in vehicle characteristics as well

00196CFD-6890-4081-AD3B-16014C5AC643.jpeg
 
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rwhjr

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I noticed a slight difference. They’re slightly firmer than stock but. In my opinion for me I like it for a road vehicle because it doesn’t bounce after hitting a speed bump or pot holes anymore. I kinda feel more control of the vehicle as well. If you plan on doing serious off-roading than they’re not the greatest but they work for low speed stuff. Than again I’m running 3” of lift front and 1” lift rear with 36s on 18s. Tires and tire pressure play a huge roll in vehicle characteristics as well

View attachment 206440
Love the look of your truck.

What is the wheel/tire combo?

I want 17s with 37s for my truck but my ProComp loft is limiting me to 18s with 37s for my next set and I haven’t found that 18s have the most options.
I feel like 17s or 20s have the most.

I like the way yours look with delmonico though!
 

crazykid1994

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Hbrichman

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If you’re doing the front might aswell get the rear also. I’m set at 2.8 and I honestly haven’t felt that much of a difference over stock. That being said, I definitely agree that they aren’t the greatest offroad which is what I do a majority of so I’ll probably upgrade to a 2.5 shock in the future. They are fantastic for the price though. Check on Amazon, I got the set of 4 for a little over $300. 707a0b8d1d25c7477255a0d38453ba77.jpg


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Gary2

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The rear 5100's were to stiff for me I still have a set I took back off and put OE's back on my 2014. So I just left the OEs on the rear of this( 2017) truck after trying 5100s on the two previous Rams. Rear 5100s just collect dust in the corner of the garage
 
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kurek

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If I was just doing a level and there's nothing actually wrong with the rear shocks I don't think I'd bother.

With a lift it's worth replacing them, in particular the lift I have includes longer rear shocks (and other support parts) and the rear axle gets longer travel as a result but that's a whole package and you wouldn't want the longer shocks without the other bits.

I should add, Bilstein's HD and 5100 shocks tend to be digressive valved, that's kinda their signature or whatever. It produces a sportier feel on corners but a busier ride on rough surfaces. I think it's typical for off-road tuned shocks to be valved linear or progressive.
 

buddy guy

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If you’re doing the front might aswell get the rear also. I’m set at 2.8 and I honestly haven’t felt that much of a difference over stock. That being said, I definitely agree that they aren’t the greatest offroad which is what I do a majority of so I’ll probably upgrade to a 2.5 shock in the future. They are fantastic for the price though. Check on Amazon, I got the set of 4 for a little over $300. 707a0b8d1d25c7477255a0d38453ba77.jpg


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What are your wheels? I really like them. And are those wildpeak tires?

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buddy guy

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Its got me thinking about my next set of tires and possibly new rims when it comes to that time. I like my rims but now I wish I had waited. I'm tired of 5 spoke (the bronze on mine is the best improvement and I really hated the stockers). But in hindsight, I would get something deep dish and beefy looking to go with a beefier looking tire. My rims are too civilized looking lol. I wish there were more styles available in bronze but failing that black or grey would be my next options. What I will probably do is when its new tire time (likely 1 to 2 years away still) I will get new rims as well. Also thinking 18 inch rims. I like my rim size but it seems like 20 inch are 25-30% more expensive than 17 or 18. An issue especially when I intend to go from a 33 inch tire to a 34 inch & wider too.

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_TopGear

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Decided to go Bilstein 5100 for a front level. Should I go ahead and get Bilstein’s for the rear? Ride improvement over the stock setup?

Any recommendations on where to purchase?

So, what are you thinking per their advice? I was looking into the 5100's as well one day to be able to level it. Naturally I thought to go ahead and do rear shocks as well because I still have OEM and about to hit 80k miles.

I didn't know before reading their posts that it wasn't going to give better ride quality.
 

Joe Price

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Hi, sorry this is very late for a reply. I have a 08 1500 4wheel drive with 89,000 miles. Stock suspension. The truck would float and bounce like crazy. I installed the 5100 front and rear with moog springs in the front. its like a new truck. I live on long Island in NY So I do all around driving. Everything from smooth paved roads to NY city potholes to dirt off road conditions upstate. I have nothing bad to say about the upgrade. If it matters I am running aftermarket wheels but stock size and went with the 2in adjustment in the front. I will tell you this... Im a 40 year veteran mechanic and it was not easy to install them. Only because you need to remove the lower spring seat off of your old struts. If it wasent for that it would have went much smoother. The top nut on the stock strut was so bad I had to put the strut in the spring compressor and cut the strut rod with a torch. Once I had it apart I put the strut in a vice and blasted the dust cap off with a air hammer. Then used a hand die grinder with a green disk to clean all the rust off in front of the lower spring seat so it would slide off easier. Last but not least, used a air hammer to remove the seat. I wound up having to replace 1 upper ball joint, sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. i didnt rush and it took me about 4 hours. Good luck.
 

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