Rattle after suspension work

[Duuplo]

Just installed Bilstein 6112s @ 2.8" (came preassembled) along with ReadyLift UCAs in the front, and 5100s with 1.5" Motofab spacers in the rear. I was pretty meticulous about torque specs and tightening everything up with suspension under full weight. I got a professional alignment done day after the install. Over all, the struts net'd me about 2 1/2" in the front, and exactly 1.5" in the rear with spacers. The ride is noticably smoother than stock and seems to absorb bumps better. No vibrations/shutter in 4x4, no grinding, no creaking (sp?), etc. Everything seems normal or better, except...

I get this slight jiggle or rattle (more feel than hear) under my feet when going over some bumps, not all. And while it seems to be more pronounced over larger bumps when it does occur, it doesn't happen most of time. I noticed the same thing very infrequently on my stock suspension--again not every bump would produce the jiggle/rattle and it didn't seem to matter how big the bump was (i.e. even very large bumps didn't usually produce it). But, it has definitely increased in frequency since putting in the new suspension components.

Any suggestions on where to start looking would be appreciated.

Obligatory pics:
Before


After

 

[Duuplo]

Just installed Bilstein 6112s in the front set @ 2.8" (came preassembled) along with ReadyLift UCAs in the front, and 5100s with 1.5" Motofab spacers in the rear. I was pretty meticulous about torque specs and tightening everything up with suspension under full weight. I got a professional alignment done day after the install. Over all, the struts net'd me about 2 1/2" in the front, and exactly 1.5" in the rear with spacers. The ride is noticably smoother than stock and seems to absorb bumps better. No vibrations/shutter in 4x4, not grinding, no creaking (sp?), etc. Everythings seems normal or better, except...

I get this slight jiggle or rattle (more feel than hear) under my feet when going over some bumps, not all. And while it seems to be more pronounced over larger bumps when it does occur, it doesn't happen most of time. I noticed the same thing very infrequently on my stock struts--again not every bump would produce the jiggle/rattle and it didn't seem to matter how big the bump was (i.e. even very large bumps didn't usually produce it). But, it has definitely increased in frequency since putting in the new suspension components.

Any suggestions on wear to start looking would be appreciated.

Obligatory pics:
Before
View attachment 534779

After
View attachment 534780

One additional note: I have to go up a ramp to the parking garage at my work. I noticed the rattle very distinctly when accelerating up the ramp. I thought this odd because it’s not “bumpy”, just at an incline. It happened each ramp I ascended up to the 5th floor.

 

[rzr6-4]

5 story parking in NE, you must be in Omaha.

Does it happen if you do a hard acceleration on level ground? I wonder if it is drive line related.

 

[mrack]

Have you checked the lower ball joints, tie rods and sway links?

 

[Duuplo]

5 story parking in NE, you must be in Omaha.

Does it happen if you do a hard acceleration on level ground? I wonder if it is drive line related.

I don't recall noticing it while accelerating on level ground, but it has only been 2 days since install. I will give it a few pulls on the way home to verify.

Lol, Lincoln residents would be piqued to know they are considered unworthy of the 5-story club.

 

[Duuplo]

Have you checked the lower ball joints, tie rods and sway links?

I am planning to go over and retorq everything again in about a week after the new suspension has settled more. Could someone check my work on these torq specs:

Outer Tie Rod End to Knuckle: 45 ft/lbs
Front End Link to Swaybar: 20 ft/lbs (thought this seemed low, but couldn't find a different spec)

I did not loosen/disconnect the Lower Ball Joint when I installed the front struts and UCAs, but I will check that just in case--thank you.

EDIT: Or do you mean the Lower Ball Joint could be going bad?

 

[olyelr]

Good luck in locating the culprit of the noise, and nice looking setup right there man !

 

[cdn cj]

Suspension torque specs should be done with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground. Not hung on a jack stand.
Good luck with the issue!

 

[mrack]

Those are the correct specs, and yes I meant to check for the ball joints in each of those parts going bad, not the specs on them. You said you heard it occasionally prior to the modifications, so clearly it wasn’t caused by anything you did, the lift just made it more noticeable. If a ball joint wears out badly they can rattle on bumps and such. I had the ball joint in a sway link grind itself apart and make very similar symptoms.

 

[Duuplo]

5 story parking in NE, you must be in Omaha.

Does it happen if you do a hard acceleration on level ground? I wonder if it is drive line related.

Drove all the way home from work this afternoon and did some errands along the way: highway and stop/go city driving with plenty of potholes along the way. Couldn't reproduce the rattle. Weird how it is so intermittent. I have the hemi tick from from a broken header bolt on start up, I wonder if it might be that loose bolt/heat shield bouncing around? But, I would think that it would be a more regular occurrence then... and I don't think it would be enough to feel beneath my feet.

 

[Duuplo]

Those are the correct specs, and yes I meant to check for the ball joints in each of those parts going bad, not the specs on them. You said you heard it occasionally prior to the modifications, so clearly it wasn’t caused by anything you did, the lift just made it more noticeable. If a ball joint wears out badly they can rattle on bumps and such. I had the ball joint in a sway link grind itself apart and make very similar symptoms.

This makes sense to me as there would be more tension on sway bar and such. Luckily, I have some new front and rear end links on order with Nick@GotExhaust (sorry, don't know how to properly link profile). I will see how things are after installing end links and retorquing everything down in a week or so.

I put in new ReadyLift UCAs, but would 2 1/2" lift put enough stress on lower ball joints to cause more rattling? Mileage ~ 75k, no prior suspension work.

 

[mrack]

The common method for testing ball joints is to jack up on side of the truck, grab the wheel and shake it to see if you get any play. If it has play side to side it’s tie rods, if top to bottom it’s ball joints.

 

[olyelr]

The common method for testing ball joints is to jack up on side of the truck, grab the wheel and shake it to see if you get any play. If it has play side to side it’s tie rods, if top to bottom it’s ball joints.

Top to bottom play can be a wheel bearing too.

 

[Duuplo]

Thanks @mrack, I will give the wheels a shake to see what sort of play is there.

Top to bottom play can be a wheel bearing too.

Would this present a different sound/symptom or anything I could distinguish between a bad joint vs bearing? Wheel bearings usually make a grinding noise when going bad, I think.

 

[olyelr]

Thanks @mrack, I will give the wheels a shake to see what sort of play is there.


Would this present a different sound/symptom or anything I could distinguish between a bad joint vs bearing?

Well if there is visible movement/play, if its the ball joints then you will be able to visibly see it in them.

 

[brad byron]

to me, sure sounds like a loose upper rear shock bolt. i replaced by stock shocks with Bilstein's. as well. upper right rear bolt was tight......just not VERY tight. used a 6 inch open end(22mm, i relieve) wrench to reach up to the nut behind the fender shroud. alond with a socket to SUPER tighten that bolt.........all rattle noise gone. prior, i pulled the shroud to do the install.pain but was part of the process......

 

[20092500HEMI]

I would buy a Steelman Chassisear, they sell them on Amazon, or just Google it. You will find the exact location of the noise very quickly.

 

[czervika]

It's the swaybar end links. It's always the swaybar end links.

 

[Duuplo]

It's the swaybar end links. It's always the swaybar end links.

I just replaced the front sway bar end links with some MaxxLinks for 1-3” lift. Haven’t had much time on them, but I think the rattle/jiggle is still there.

Also, right after install, I was driving on the highway to work and experienced noticable vibration above 70 mph. Nothing below that, but is started about 70 and increased as I went up to 80 mph (as fast as I dared to go).

Strangely though, I tried to reproduce the vibration on the way home and could not, even going up to 85 mph. We had a lot of snow here recently and it’s been below zero. So I’m wondering if it just wasn’t some accumulation of snow in the wheels throwing off balance.

Anyways, I ordered some Mevotech TTX heavy duty lower ball joints. Probably due from some new BJs anyways with about 75k on the originals. I will report back once those are in.

Thanks again for the advice everyone.

 

[Duuplo]

to me, sure sounds like a loose upper rear shock bolt. i replaced by stock shocks with Bilstein's. as well. upper right rear bolt was tight......just not VERY tight. used a 6 inch open end(22mm, i relieve) wrench to reach up to the nut behind the fender shroud. alond with a socket to SUPER tighten that bolt.........all rattle noise gone. prior, i pulled the shroud to do the install.pain but was part of the process......

Hmm… I just got my Icon rear 1.5” coils in the mail, so I will check those rear shocks bolts when I put those in. It’s actually 21mm, I remember because I just installed some Bilstein 5100s a couple weeks ago and I had to buy an extra wrench to cut down into a stubby.

To me, it feels like the rattle/jiggle is coming from right below my feet (actually passenger side if I had to guess).

I noticed it infrequently before installing the front and rear lift, but it has definitely increased since.