Brake service all around

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Captain Bart

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2014 1500. Brakes are fine, however, I like to be pro-active, so I am going to change the rotors and pads because I can. My question is, is this a simple mechanical plug n play rotor swap, and pads installed? Are there ABS sensors, etc. that would be affected by a simple brake service?

Any codes involved? Any ghee whiz to be aware of?
 

4xdad

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i just did the front brakes on the sqids truck. wow what apita. passenger side the rotor was rust welded on pins seized in the bracket. i beat the rotor off with a hammer (BFH). then put the braket in the vise and sprayed and twisted hammered heated. after a couple of hours it came out. a couple of days later wheel bearing was done that involved a bit more hammering and swearing etc. the kid god bless him wants to do this himself but he is not strong enough. i’m not as strong as i used to be either now that im older and dieing. but at least he’s trying and paying attention
 

4xdad

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oh yeah the driver side was no problem had it done in a couple of hours
 

4xdad

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so if you have to beat the rotor off. do the wheel bearings too cause they are not going to last
 

4xdad

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and yes that’s apita too because the bolts come in from the back. but don’t be afraid to do this yourself because it’s pretty simple mechanicly its just apita
 

Jeepwalker

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How many miles??

If you REALLY want to be 'proactive', remove the calipers and clean/re-lube them up. Pop the pistons out (compressed air) ..using blocks of wood to gradually work the pistons out in steps ...don't just blow the pistons out or they'll shoot out like a bullet and crack & chip ..and damage the dust boot. Work them out slowly. Then clean any gunk out of the caliper bores, re-lube the pistons/seals. Just re-use the seals, put everything back together...shouldnt need to buy new parts.

Your calipers might look rusty as heck on the outside, but they may be clean as day-two on the inside. So, if you lube them up, lube all the sliding parts incl sliding pins (and file rust away from sliding surfaces), you might be able to go may yrs w/o having sticky calipers that hang up and warp your new rotors. Save yourself a few hundred bucks. Just get a piece of rubber inner tube 1" wide, 2" long and attach a C-clamp vise grips on the hose end to keep brake fluid from dripping out. My truck has been sitting like that for a month and hasn't leaked a drop of brake fluid. Then you can work on the calipers.

The ONE THING you might want to do is inspect for rust on the inner-ring of the dust boot at the top of the caliper bore (see pic below). What happens is rust starts there and gradually 'creeps' it's way into the bore. Builds up (expands) and makes the piston harder to retract. Leading to possibly warped rotors. Below you can see I'm blasting that rust out, but you could clean it out with sandpaper as best you could and that would make a positive impact I believe. The rest of the bore on mine looked brand new inside.

As I say, a guy can generally reuse the existing brake parts w/o buying anything new. But Mopar does sell OEM (TRW) piston kits if you need them. OR, ...when the time comes buy brand new calipers. I would avoid rebuilt calipers. Rebuilt calipers generally the rebuild outfit blasts the inside of the piston bores (which destroys the bore finish), and use the cheapest parts. Be lucky to get a couple yrs on a reblt caliper. Advance Auto has really nice NEW (oem like quality) calipers. And some others on RockAuto and Amazon are good as well. To me, it's fun to re-do them (I'm whacko that way!). Suck out the old fluid from your reservoir and put in new. Bleed front & back brakes out.

Don't forget to check your tk's lower ball joints too...they tend to go quicker than the rest.

Caliper Rebuild_Blast Ring.jpgCaliper Rebuild_Parts.jpg
...after blasting & self-etch primer ...and paint.
 
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Jeepwalker

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Also, I would stick with a good quality rotor. Like Raybetos, Bosch, etc. I don't put a set of rotors on w/o putting the dial indicator on them. I go for 0.00" run-out. Not .005 ...lol! Usually the good brand names are a safe bet (but every once in a while!). However those Amazon cheapies often have run-out on the rotors. And often times other poor machining characteristics.

I think the manufacturer's 'grade' rotors (for quality) after manufacturing and the good ones go to the name brand's (they probably pay more, have higher standards) and the ones which are poorly made go to the bottom-sellers. Buyer beware. $15 more per rotor is worth the extra money, IMO, if you get smooth braking...
 

MarshRam

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2014 1500. Brakes are fine, however, I like to be pro-active, so I am going to change the rotors and pads because I can. My question is, is this a simple mechanical plug n play rotor swap, and pads installed? Are there ABS sensors, etc. that would be affected by a simple brake service?

Any codes involved? Any ghee whiz to be aware of?
2014 SLT. Put new rotors and pads on myself like 7 years ago (50K miles ago). Clean up and lube everything you can while your in there. I don't think they have made a sensor to this day that get's mad at upgraded rotors and pads and starts throwing codes telling you dumb **** like your headrest is positioned unsafely and you need to press the OK button to start and drive your truck, much less a 2014. Although, I'm sure they are working on that for future models. All jokes aside, your good to go, get that new break setup.
 

dopey137

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doing the same thing this week - rotors and pads - ordered from napa - no ebay or amazon junk - on same truck - 2014 1500
 

scru0314

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2014 1500. Brakes are fine, however, I like to be pro-active, so I am going to change the rotors and pads because I can. My question is, is this a simple mechanical plug n play rotor swap, and pads installed? Are there ABS sensors, etc. that would be affected by a simple brake service?

Any codes involved? Any ghee whiz to be aware of?
Just did mine all around. Realized my parking brakes were shot. That took longer than all four rotors and pads.
 

4xdad

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the pads on the back of my truck are like new after 264k kilometres both calipers must have been siezed. for a long time the pads are still like new but covered in gear oil on the passenger side. the pads on the pads on the driver side are still like new too. it’s pretty obvious that the seal is leaking on both sides.
 

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4xdad

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i guess a visual check was not enough because i had the tires on and off. they never really made any noise until lately (greasy brake pads are like that). ripped pin boots siezed pins
 

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