Cab lights

[HTXRamExp]

Does anyone have a part number or an after-market source for the small plastic nutserts for the clearance lights? I had to swap out my cheap eBay bulbs today and I realize two of them aren't as tight as they should be and that they probably need replacing.

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1/4 was what was called for and that's what I used. A few guys said they used a 6mm bit and they fit more snug. None of my inserts were spinning today swapping bulbs but the screw itsself wasn't tightening down. Thinking the threads cut in the plastic itself is stripping out. I may have tightened down to much the first go around

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Did you ever find a replacement or p/n for the plastic nutserts?

If yes, I’d be interested in that information as well.

If no, have you had any issues with leaking? I have one screw that won’t bite and tighten down all the way.

I’m also wanting to change bulbs and afraid I may run into the same issue removing and re-installing the screws.


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[Maligator]

Did you ever find a replacement or p/n for the plastic nutserts?

If yes, I’d be interested in that information as well.

If no, have you had any issues with leaking? I have one screw that won’t bite and tighten down all the way.

I’m also wanting to change bulbs and afraid I may run into the same issue removing and re-installing the screws.


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Unfortunately a few months after this post, that truck got totaled so I never did figure out a solution. That being said my power wagon has a totally different insert but it's not a rivnut.

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[JB1]

I took my stubborn inserts and put them in a vise and "prethreaded them" using the screw and a cordless driver. When I installed in the truck I put flex seal around them which sorta held them in place like glue. I found using a cordless driver worked better on the roof versus the slow had tool, at least for your first time starting the threads. I have changed my bulbs at least 5 times with no issue, those cheap LEDs dont last long.

 

[HTXRamExp]

Thanks for the responses guys.

I used a silicone sealant around the plastic nutserts as well in hopes of aiding them not spinning.

Unfortunately, one screw won’t tighten down, just won’t snug up tight to where it doesn’t want to spin anymore. May have stripped the nutsert as maligator had suspected with his.

I was going to give the auxito LEDs a try and see if they’re any brighter and also more amber than orange than the current ones I have.

My lenses are smoked so that may be my issue as well.







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[Gary2]

I have sometimes had to have someone in the cab with pliers hold the bottom of the plastic insert . Only the first time after that they seem to work fine

 

[Maligator]

Thanks for the responses guys.

I used a silicone sealant around the plastic nutserts as well in hopes of aiding them not spinning.

Unfortunately, one screw won’t tighten down, just won’t snug up tight to where it doesn’t want to spin anymore. May have stripped the nutsert as maligator had suspected with his.

I was going to give the auxito LEDs a try and see if they’re any brighter and also more amber than orange than the current ones I have.

My lenses are smoked so that may be my issue as well.







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I had auxito amber bulbs in my wagon. Loved the color just not the longevity. They would last 6 months...tops. perfect color and brightness though. I have Philips bulbs now and they're definitely a darker orange than the auxito and not as bright. Here is a pic of mine last year with auxito bulbs and now with Philips bulbs

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[HTXRamExp]

I had auxito amber bulbs in my wagon. Loved the color just not the longevity. They would last 6 months...tops. perfect color and brightness though. I have Philips bulbs now and they're definitely a darker orange than the auxito and not as bright. Here is a pic of mine last year with auxito bulbs and now with Philips bulbs

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Hmmmm, yeah I can definitely see the difference, and I do like to look of the auxitos, but that lifespan is not appealing, the less I have to get in and out of those cab lenses the better!

Truck looks great BTW!

 

[Gary2]

I Just did clearance lights on my Black 17. After making the 7/8" holes with a large drill and finishing up with a type of reamer for lack of a better name, a step drill and now this time with the hole saw linked. to from this thread the step drill is the best for me . Today I bent 3 pilot hole drills using the hole saw. So after installing 6 sets of lights just on Rams not to mention Chevy's and Fords the step drill is the way I recommend . Their is a lot more to the roof than you may think and a step drill will not go through fast enough to make the hole to large by no means

Edit : I also finally mastered these plastic molly type inserts also . Once again I tried a number of different ways to install over the years including silicone. I used the 1/4" drill as instructions say. After taping them in I then take Phillips screw driver and with the tip push the little center piece down just below the surface . I then place the light in the correct position making sure the tip of the screws are in in the correct spot. I then just take the palm of my hand and hit the end of the handle of the screw driver to give the screw a start and then start tightening . It worked on all 10 . Never before have I got all 10 to go in perfectly. It is very quick and easy just had not tried it before . I have taped the handle with a hammer before but didnt care for that not knowing exactly how much force I was using but with the palm of your hand you can tell what kind on thump you are giving it . Worked for me any way.

 

[Gary2]

The amber MOPAR clearance lights were to bright out of the box and I didn't want all black. I wanted them to go with the amber in the projector headlights . Tint and many coats of clear worked perfect for what I wanted. I used the earlier amber MOPAR lights which have never given me a problem of any kind in the past . Reinstall tomorrow

 

[Tizzy]

Popping in to revive this old thread. Lots of good information in here.

Going to be pulling apart the interior for sound deafening install, figured then would be about as good an opportunity as ever to install cab lights.

Definitely not 100% on my ability to do it myself. Called a local dealer and explained the situation, thinking they might work with me since a lot of the labor would be done/not required. And I’d still get warranty on the install IF there ever were issues.

Quoted me 850! Oof. Also went on about what I’m doing taking the truck apart and how if I mess with any electrical I’m voiding my warranty.


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I’d definitely find a new dealer.

 

[Tizzy]

I’ve got the template taped down and it’s even side to side, my question is do I line up the front arrows with the edge of the roof, or the edge of the glass?

 

[Tizzy]

Here or further ahead?

 

[SOKY_RAM]

Here or further ahead?

I think as long as you do both sides the same that 1/4" isnt going to matter.

 

[G. Mcpherson]

Keep them back rather than fwd. Been there myself. It will work well.

 

[Tizzy]

Got them drilled. Definitely see why farther back is better.
Thx guys!

 

[Tizzy]

Total BUZZ KILL!
Install done. Go to hook a Tap A Fuse into F79 and no dice. My tap a fuse is too big... it’s a MINI.

What size is the factory fuse?

 

[Badger 13]

If I remember right it is a micro2.

 

[squadco343]

Every MOPAR set I have bought came with a template in the box others I just measured a truck that had OE lights

As far as Reg Cabs having them I have probably owned a dozen of them with them. To me the most important thing was that the truck was lifted some vs cab type. No need for something called clearance lights on something thats short no matter how many doors ya have.


I have also learned long ago is use a step drill bit. larger drill bits are a bit of a pain drilling through todays beer can thick sheetmetal making a neat looking hole . Never had a leak and thats after close to a dozen installs. take your time and follow directions and don't over think it, You can be your worst enemy

Anyone have a Clearance/Cab Light Template they can mail me? Thanks.

 

[Brian2081]

Tizzy, your truck may already have a dedicated wire for cab lights. Should be located right side of dash behind right side of lower glove box. Also pull access panel on right side of dash where door panel meets dash. My wire is green with white tracer.

 

[Malodave]

Anyone have a Clearance/Cab Light Template they can mail me? Thanks.

Link to file uploaded to thread.

Just go to a Print Shop that does Blueprints/Reprographics with the file. I think it cost me $5 to print it at 100% in B&W.
The lights I used have a Black and White wire. The Black is positive and the White is negative. When I made the Harness
up I just soldered the Black Wire to Red and the White Wire to Black.


Malodave