Champ PH48 oil filter cut open

[Wild one]

Why are you using 5-W-30 oil, when Ram specifies 5-W-20 viscosity?

This might interest you.Read the note at the bottom,and you'll also notice nowhere do they claim 5W-20 is best for the longevity of the engine,they only say it's best for milege and cold weather starting,you can be damn sure if FCA thought 5W-20 was best for the engine longevity they'd be touting it to the moon and back.This is from the 700 page printed owners manual for my 14.There also seems to be less cam/lifter issues with 5W-30 . Alot of us are running 5W-30 with no issues.

 

[1999 White C5 Coupe]

This might interest you.Read the note at the bottom,and you'll also notice nowhere do they claim 5W-20 is best for the longevity of the engine,they only say it's best for milege and cold weather starting,you can be damn sure if FCA thought 5W-20 was best for the engine longevity they'd be touting it to the moon and back.This is from the 700 page printed owners manual for my 14.There also seems to be less cam/lifter issues with 5W-30 . Alot of us are running 5W-30 with no issues.

View attachment 233484

Thanks for the reply.

I live in the Midwest, with cold winters. As such, I always use the 5-W-20 specified for my 2014 Ram Outdoorsman Hemi, due to cold weather starting.

If the vehicle is used in warm or hot climates (our summers....), 5-W-30 might be the better choice.

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for the reply.

I live in the Midwest, with cold winters. As such, I always use the 5-W-20 specified for my 2014 Ram Outdoorsman Hemi, due to cold weather starting.

If the vehicle is used in warm or hot climates (our summers....), 5-W-30 might be the better choice.

Not a hell'va lot of differance in the higher end 5W-20's and 5W-30's for cold weather starting.Start perusing the oil threads on here,there's a pile of well documented info floating around about the differances bewtween 5W-20 and 5W-30.If Burla chimes in,listen to him,he knows as much about oil as anybody does.Don't be going all big headed now Mike,lol

 

[PoMansRam]

All I can say you get what you pay for a $3 filter for a $40,000 truck, Is that what Enterprise uses, E Gads you will be going for a complete engine rebuild at what about 40,000 miles.

The sticker was actually over $46K for my truck. I paid under $28K for it used, but that's kind of irrelevant.

I've chatted with fleet managers over the years who've put 100s of thousands of miles on vehicles using oil filters like these or even cheaper. I bought a one-off oil filter cutter off ebay from a motorcycle shop like 15yrs ago. Since then I've cut open every oil filter that will fit the cutter. Given the number of engine oil changes I do for myself, family, etc, I've probably cut open 100 or more. These Champ filters are decently constructed. I'd put them in line with most factory / OEM filters you'll find on new vehicles and you'll never really know if they do a 'better job' than a $10 "premium" filter. A full-flow filter can only do so much is my personal take on this.

I'm not saying run out and buy them. Buy what makes you feel good

 

[DaveSharp]

I agree with the filter. But I personally would not be adding anything to the oil..
Honestly, that's asking for trouble..
Not to mention, IF you had an issue and the dealer found out... Bye bye warranty [emoji17]

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Most dealers can't find their ****, not much worry of them figuring something out like that... It takes work.

 

[chrisbh17]

FWIW I use Fram Ultra and its like $8 at Walmart. I find that is a good middle ground between cheapo filter and "unicorn RP" filter. It works well, is readily available, isnt the lowest of the low and is fairly inexpensive.

ive tried the stock Mopar filter, the Viper SRT filter, the small RP and the large RP. The SRT filter wasnt bad, but 15.00 from the dealer is blech. The large RP filter was good, too, but when I looked at the stash I have left (only 2) one of them has rust inside (!!!) and the other has a different inner core hole setup....so erring on side of caution I wont use either.

And for about the price of the stock Mopar filter, I can get the Fram ultra.

 

[aimvee]

Most dealers can't find their ****, not much worry of them figuring something out like that... It takes work.

Sure enough, but still a possibility.
Last time I needed engine work on a Jeep, my dealer send the oil for testing.
Still best to let the OP know. Just in case he does have an issue he's not at the dealer like "well I put all this awesome good stuff in my engine oil" lol.
Right?? No...[emoji848]

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[Scottsjeeprolet]

Don't care how the filter looks, I would like to know the condition of the oil. That's why i send in my old oil to get it checked out. Tells you if there is anything wrong with the engine.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?se...abs.net/Bstone/(S(hypjc2vjnukbw3ugberw3b3q))/

 

[blackbetty14]

I think the purolator original filter is like $1-2 more and the inside components are 300% better. The standard purolator (red) is my go to cheap filter at around $4 and I've had the Fram, purolator lineup, Bosch, K&N, Mobile 1, and STP opened up. Basically the Purolator Pure one and Boss are my tops but they are the same as the K&N, Mobile 1 on the inside so I get whatever is on sale with the oil I need for the next change.

The fram you posted will get the job done but don't expect to push extra mileage on that comfortably. If you open a red purolator you would be more comfortable pushing 5K plus even on their cheapest filter. My oil changes are 7K+ on penn ultra synthetic and a good filter (from the list above) and mixed weight oil and have had great luck plus the oil reports come back promising where they are telling me to push 10k on my changes moving forward. The costs are actually less when you consider you can get $35 for synthetic and a good filter and push 7-10k vs $30 for 5k oil changes and less filtration.

 

[blackbetty14]

Looks pretty close to an orange can Fram filter to me. Are those cardboard end caps?

They are felt....

 

[chrisbh17]

I think the purolator original filter is like $1-2 more and the inside components are 300% better. The standard purolator (red) is my go to cheap filter at around $4 and I've had the Fram, purolator lineup, Bosch, K&N, Mobile 1, and STP opened up. Basically the Purolator Pure one and Boss are my tops but they are the same as the K&N, Mobile 1 on the inside so I get whatever is on sale with the oil I need for the next change.

The fram you posted will get the job done but don't expect to push extra mileage on that comfortably. If you open a red purolator you would be more comfortable pushing 5K plus even on their cheapest filter. My oil changes are 7K+ on penn ultra synthetic and a good filter (from the list above) and mixed weight oil and have had great luck plus the oil reports come back promising where they are telling me to push 10k on my changes moving forward. The costs are actually less when you consider you can get $35 for synthetic and a good filter and push 7-10k vs $30 for 5k oil changes and less filtration.

I used to use Purolator PureOne exclusively for all our vehicles....then they started having tearing issues in the size for "my baby", so I went to Fram Ultra (which is arguably a better filter anyway) and never looked back.

TBH one simple thing I like about the Fram Ultra is that the packages are taped shut. So I know right away if someone attempted to swap filters, etc.

 

[atxmike53]

Never heard of Champ filters--but found the PH48 at Rock Auto for ...$1.42 each!!!! Wish they fit my lawn tractors...

 

[SOLER]

With regard to changing the filter, and the associated mess...I have found that if you drive the truck on ramps, you can get yourself between the front suspension and the radiator. Easy to reach the filter. Before I discovered this, I tried to get something under the filter to catch the oil, but whatever i used would be in the way...I couldn't then get my hand on the filter to loosen it. Just not enough strength in my hands/ wrists at that angle. And no room for any kind of filter wrench, either.

What I do is take the top of a plastic gallon milk carton, or windshield washer bottle, or whatever. Find some hose that will fit on the spout. The hose needs to be long enough to reach down past all the steering, suspension, and frame. Then get up there between the suspension and radiator, and you can get your hand in there, or use a filter wrench, and loosen the filter. Another trick is after you get the milk bottle in there, poke a hole in the bottom of the filter. All the oil drains out, then remove filter.
Once you see how much room you have, you can use the filter used on the pre-electric power steering trucks. Mopar went with the smaller filter due to the room (or lack thereof) available to remove it. Older, larger filter fits.

 

[chrisbh17]

Honestly Ive pretty much taken to just letting everything "free bleed" then wiping up the mess. Everything Ive tried starts really well but backing the filter back out ends with stuff dumped no matter how careful I am. If I just let everything drain (with a pan underneath) the only real cleanup is a small area of the outer case of electric steering rack.

I WILL try the ramp thing, though....I havent tried the RAM on my RhinoRamps yet, but they should support it (they are rated to, anyway)

 

[Wild one]

I have no idea of what you guys are talking about,it's easy to change filters on my truck,lol

 

[chrisbh17]

I have no idea of what you guys are talking about,it's easy to change filters on my truck,lol

View attachment 233764

Cheater

 

[Wild one]

Cheater

LOL

 

[Cableman]

Last time i changed mine i tried the zip lock bag and just turned it slow, not one drip! And i was a few deep lol i went in from the front side of the steering, or the back side of the bumper area. Definitely have to be a contortionist to use 2 hands but its doable!

 

[blackbeautyhemi]

Last time i changed mine i tried the zip lock bag and just turned it slow, not one drip! And i was a few deep lol i went in from the front side of the steering, or the back side of the bumper area. Definitely have to be a contortionist to use 2 hands but its doable!
View attachment 233777

That’s what I do as well, works pretty good.

 

[Jendsley06]

I worked for champion labs for a long time. Those are a relatively inexpensive filter. I've had my hands on all of the equipment that made that one. They make tons of them. Mostly identical with various names on them. Made in USA is the best part IMHO