Did I Just Kill My Engine?

[someramdude]

2014 5.7 Ram - Hemi Tick

I think I really just need some confirmation here. I was quoted some ridiculous price (well so I thought) by the dealer to fix my hemi tick, so I figured I'd do it myself. I removed my passenger exhaust manifold and then started working on removing the broken bolts. I extracted one successfully, but I still have not got the top left one out in the picture.

I'm pretty sure where I went wrong was mistaking the top right (on the rearmost pax exhaust port) for a broken bolt. The actual manifold has a hole there, but I now see that the gasket does not have a hole there. I drilled too far into this one and now have fluid driping out of the hole.

I suppose there is a chance I can plug that hole somehow and possibly do a coolant flush, but I'm thinking I trashed my engine at the moment.

Any thoughts? Oh and yes, I feel really dumb, and am thinking I'm going to need a new engine. I'm just hoping that I can get some advice on here to give me a bit of clarity on how to move forward.

At this point I'm feeling pretty gutted and am ready to call a tow truck to take the truck to a shop.

 

[Treburkulosis]

At worst case you will need a new head not a new engine.

 

[StickyLifter]

Okay... Yes, at worst you need a new head. Not a huge deal, but we aren't there yet. Before you bust out the acid and TIG welder, here are some suggestions:

Need to make sure that the hole is not needed for the exhaust manifold, and since I haven't looked at mine yet, I can't say for sure, but my gut feeling is yes it's needed.

At any rate, you'll need to plug that hole, and there are several ways to do it. You can thread the hole to a common size plug, like maybe an 1/8" screw in plug and then screw it in with some sealer and you'll be fine. This is the best fix if there was never a bolt that went in there. If you can't tap some threads back into it, then you can always fill it with a product like Magnum Steel, JB Weld, or Marine Tex. Cylinder head porters do this all the time, sometimes on purpose when trying to enlarge an intake port, and there are products made just for sealing that area up. You'll need to clean and dry the hole REALLY well before doing this, but it will work.

If you need threads in the hole and can't cut them back in, investigate a Heli-Coil insert.

**IF THAT HOLE IS USED FOR THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD YOU MUST PUT THREADS AND A BOLT BACK INTO IT OR THE NEW GASKET WILL NOT SEAL**

Keep the hole as small as possible when doing the repair. If this wasn't on an exhaust manifold bolt, I would say to get a slightly longer bolt, coat the end with Permatex Ultra Black and torque as normal. The heat of the manifold is the only thing that might limit that fix.

You can see on the manifold in your picture where the leak was, it's that dark area on the tab with the hole in it.

 

[Brian2081]

Ok, just an idea for a quick and inexpensive fix. Tap and plug it. Don't forget to put tread sealant on the plug treads before installing.

 

[Brian2081]

Sticky, you beat me to the same fix by seconds..lol

 

[someramdude]

Thanks for the responses. Once I confirm that hole is not needed (which I'm 95% sure it isn't used by the manifold), think I will try to tap the hole and find something to thread in there. I'm think the head will need to be flush so maybe I can find a torx or allen head bold without a head.

 

[Daw14]

I just installed ARH longtubes this past weekend ,there is no hole to begin with . Only eight bolts per side . I agree thread it , J-B weld a set screw ,move on . The rear on drivers side will be tough also.

 

[StickyLifter]

Run one of these in with some Permatex Ultra Black and call it a day:

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[EdGs]

1/8 npt thread requires a .339 drill. Way large hole, plus you have to run a tap in so far to get the plug below the surface. Metal chips galore.

1/16 npt is smaller, but still reqires a D drill (.246 I believe). Still will have the same issue with chips.

What size drill were you using?

If you can tap for a smaller set screw, get a spiral flute tap. The cut threads are expelled out the back of the tap. A gun style tap will push the chips forward into the head.

Plus, with a set screw, the threads are straight and not tapered like the npt threads, so you will have to get the set screw below the surface and seal it well. You might have luck by not tapping all the way through, the set screw may seal better, but I'm not sure how much meat is there to work with.

Be careful. Wishing you the best possible outcome for this.

 

[chopperman1]

Thanks for the responses. Once I confirm that hole is not needed (which I'm 95% sure it isn't used by the manifold), think I will try to tap the hole and find something to thread in there. I'm think the head will need to be flush so maybe I can find a torx or allen head bold without a head.

Make sure you tap it with NPT tap and not a regular, "plug" also needs to be NPT. Straight thread will not work for sealing.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Grease on drill & tap will hold metal chips on the drill & tap.

 

[Mike Garvey]

Use a 1/16 npt tap and a stainless steel plug. Do a 'cheater'. Get tap started 5/6 threads in then grind first 4 threads off tap and finish to depth ( 7-8threads from top) gently not to break tap. Put piece of cotton ball it hole first to keep chips out then take out n perimeter n plug

 

[toan]

@someramdude

did it solve your ticking noise. My RAM is making the same noise and I am thinking of doing the same thing. Thanks,

 

[Bob1313]

Pipe thread is best for sealing. That's what they are designed to do.
I've used just a regular pipe tap in this kind of situation before. Coat the tap with #2 grease and advance slowly. Back tap out frequently to clean chips off captured by grease. Re-apply grease and go again.
Slow and steady wins the race.
Have used this repair prceedure on Detroit Diesel heads many times.

 

[njjeff201]

Take it to a machine shop that repairs heads. Let them do it

 

[StickyLifter]

use a shop vac to suck out shavings.

 

[Daw14]

2014 5.7 Ram - Hemi Tick

I think I really just need some confirmation here. I was quoted some ridiculous price (well so I thought) by the dealer to fix my hemi tick, so I figured I'd do it myself. I removed my passenger exhaust manifold and then started working on removing the broken bolts. I extracted one successfully, but I still have not got the top left one out in the picture.

I'm pretty sure where I went wrong was mistaking the top right (on the rearmost pax exhaust port) for a broken bolt. The actual manifold has a hole there, but I now see that the gasket does not have a hole there. I drilled too far into this one and now have fluid driping out of the hole.

I suppose there is a chance I can plug that hole somehow and possibly do a coolant flush, but I'm thinking I trashed my engine at the moment.

Any thoughts? Oh and yes, I feel really dumb, and am thinking I'm going to need a new engine. I'm just hoping that I can get some advice on here to give me a bit of clarity on how to move forward.

At this point I'm feeling pretty gutted and am ready to call a tow truck to take the truck to a shop.

We like follow ups , tell us how it worked out for you . It is what makes this forum work .

 

[Marshall]

You never said what was the ridiculous price to replace manifold bolts? shops around here are 90-130.oo/ hr