I did this. Wanted to share/document for anyone considering the same.
I have had my 2020 Ram 2500 Cummings 6.7 Turbo, 125000 miles for about a year. I got the dreaded DPF full, and nothing would work to clear it. It would not regen on it's own. The dealer wanted about $4-5k to fix/replace the DPF. I found one online for about $1700 and decided to tackle this myself. "It is just FOUR BOLTS" says the salesman!
Super carefully made sure it was the right part for my VIN number, and ordered this DPF.
This took a bit longer than I expected, and as of now, I am vowing not to do any more work under the truck without a lift.
1. Remove spare tire, and heat shield. Remove exhaust pipe. Remove muffler. 5 electrical connectors to the muffler, just be careful and take your time with these. Rubber hangers--total PIA. Three words to make this happen. Lube, lube, and lube. Ok four words: Get THIS TOOL. Best $14 I've spent. For the lube, grease works well. Also-- transmission jack is your friend. I borrowed one from a neighbor.
2. Remove DPF. I ended up removing a support cross bar that supports the transmission, but I think I didn't need to. More rubber hanger frustration, and the bolt on the ring that connects the DPF to the turbo was crazy rusted. I ended up cutting it with a Dremel tool, and found a suitable substitute for the bolt and nut at the hardware store. Don't damage the actual connector ring though-- it's $120. Carefully remove electrical connectors. 2 from O2 sensor, 2 temperature probes, 2 control module connectors. Remove 2 pressure measurement hoses. Again, transmission jack is your friend. Save the tattered gasket to take to the local auto parts store to compare for a new one ($15)
3. Take the control module off of the old DPF and put it on the new one. Nearly every bolt was rusted and broke off. Another trip to the hardware store. I don't go to the hardware store without one of these or these. For the DPF that I got the pressure tubes were a bit smaller than the original, so I had to get new clamps to clamp it down so the rubber hoses fit properly.
4. Install new DPF. With a transmission jack, and various pieces of wood, I was able to hold the part in place while I hung it on the rubber hangers and connect the front end with the clamp ring. Funny how these rubber hangers go ON WAY EASIER than they come off. Reconnect all electrical connectors.
5. Install muffler. Don't forget the provided gasket. Install remaining tailpipe, heat shield, and spare tire.
6. Inspect for proper installation and leftover tools. I usually put some time between the work and the inspection. Go inside, take a shower, eat lunch. Then do an inspection with a cleared head.
7. Test drive. This is where I'm at right now. An OBD2 monitor helps. The DPF is no longer full, but it is in an automatic regen, and the readings are going down with each drive. I will drive a long 2-hour highway drive tomorrow and see if it goes to zero. The DPF is brand new, so I'm not sure why it even needs a regen at all.
I will follow up soon. I hope this helps if any one else decides to tackle this. BTW, the old DPF does seem to be pretty black and full of ash. I will try to clean it out and maybe keep it as a spare if it cleans up nice.
I have had my 2020 Ram 2500 Cummings 6.7 Turbo, 125000 miles for about a year. I got the dreaded DPF full, and nothing would work to clear it. It would not regen on it's own. The dealer wanted about $4-5k to fix/replace the DPF. I found one online for about $1700 and decided to tackle this myself. "It is just FOUR BOLTS" says the salesman!
Super carefully made sure it was the right part for my VIN number, and ordered this DPF.
This took a bit longer than I expected, and as of now, I am vowing not to do any more work under the truck without a lift.
1. Remove spare tire, and heat shield. Remove exhaust pipe. Remove muffler. 5 electrical connectors to the muffler, just be careful and take your time with these. Rubber hangers--total PIA. Three words to make this happen. Lube, lube, and lube. Ok four words: Get THIS TOOL. Best $14 I've spent. For the lube, grease works well. Also-- transmission jack is your friend. I borrowed one from a neighbor.
2. Remove DPF. I ended up removing a support cross bar that supports the transmission, but I think I didn't need to. More rubber hanger frustration, and the bolt on the ring that connects the DPF to the turbo was crazy rusted. I ended up cutting it with a Dremel tool, and found a suitable substitute for the bolt and nut at the hardware store. Don't damage the actual connector ring though-- it's $120. Carefully remove electrical connectors. 2 from O2 sensor, 2 temperature probes, 2 control module connectors. Remove 2 pressure measurement hoses. Again, transmission jack is your friend. Save the tattered gasket to take to the local auto parts store to compare for a new one ($15)
3. Take the control module off of the old DPF and put it on the new one. Nearly every bolt was rusted and broke off. Another trip to the hardware store. I don't go to the hardware store without one of these or these. For the DPF that I got the pressure tubes were a bit smaller than the original, so I had to get new clamps to clamp it down so the rubber hoses fit properly.
4. Install new DPF. With a transmission jack, and various pieces of wood, I was able to hold the part in place while I hung it on the rubber hangers and connect the front end with the clamp ring. Funny how these rubber hangers go ON WAY EASIER than they come off. Reconnect all electrical connectors.
5. Install muffler. Don't forget the provided gasket. Install remaining tailpipe, heat shield, and spare tire.
6. Inspect for proper installation and leftover tools. I usually put some time between the work and the inspection. Go inside, take a shower, eat lunch. Then do an inspection with a cleared head.
7. Test drive. This is where I'm at right now. An OBD2 monitor helps. The DPF is no longer full, but it is in an automatic regen, and the readings are going down with each drive. I will drive a long 2-hour highway drive tomorrow and see if it goes to zero. The DPF is brand new, so I'm not sure why it even needs a regen at all.
I will follow up soon. I hope this helps if any one else decides to tackle this. BTW, the old DPF does seem to be pretty black and full of ash. I will try to clean it out and maybe keep it as a spare if it cleans up nice.
