Factory Switch Plate

[LB3711]

ahh ok

 

[fat1]

I don't mean to highjack this thread but I was wondering if it would be possible to drill and mount my own switches to the "RAM" blackout panel this switch bank replaces. I found a couple cool rocker switches I'd like to use but would rather mount on a piece that is replaceable rather than the dash or the steering column. Thanks

 

[myoung84]

You should be able to. I'll snap a pic of the back of the Ram plate and post it up.

 

[fat1]

cool, thanks for the info man!

 

[myoung84]

Here you go. It's a little deep but you should be able to make it work.

 

[man n black]

Subscribed....thank you. Awesome info.
Ch

Sent from my DROID RAZR

 

[fat1]

Thank you for the photos!! yes I think I can work with that. Mod #2 is scheduled for this Sunday, I'll post some pics. This aux lighting is mod #3 so hopefully that will be within the next couple weeks, if not, definitely before fishing tournament time starts up

 

[Sharp Charge]

Thanks man, I've got this sitting in the box on the counter. I was looking at the old thread from Musclemckeester but i guess he never finished it.

 

[Musclemckeester]

You're getting power from the harness that was already there, is that correct? That would mean the switch is only powered when the truck is off - any reason I couldn't get power straight from the battery so I'd have the switches available anytime?

The two pins that get power to the switch ("pin 1" and "pin 7"), I see it says to create a jumper to make them into a single wire requiring power. Is that the same thing as just splicing them together basically?

I was thinking about this last night and I want to get my switch in order for when the new lights come in that way all I have to do is wire them to the switch and go.

 

[myoung84]

I'm not using the existing harness behind the dash, mine only had 3 wires I think so it wouldn't work. I used the pigtail harness that I bought with the switch. Pin 1 is for AUX 1 & 2 power and Pin 7 is for AUX 3 & 4 power. So, you can wire one of them to a switched source so they turn off with the truck and the other to a constant source so they operate all the time. I chose to wire both to a switched source so I don't leave something on. I am getting power for both pins from my Accessory wire from my stereo wire harness. The switch panel will draw almost no current so you can splice into about anything, like the cigarette lighter...

Creating a jumper is the same as splicing together. You will have 2 wires that go to 12V (either switched or constant, your choice) and one wire to ground. Then the 4 wires from each button will go to one side of the coil on a relay and the other side will go to 12V. The relays can be installed behind the dash or under the hood near the lights. I mounted 2 relays behind the dash for my front camera and locker bypass and ran 2 wires from the AUX 1 & 2 pins under the hood to connect to the light relays.

 

[Musclemckeester]

I thought this diagram was saying you could get power and use the ground from the harness that's already there. (Like you mentioned, I guess the harness that's there is for the heated/cooled seats and I think just has 3 wires.) Seems like that would be easy to tap into since it's right there by the switch anyway.

 

[myoung84]

That's just a diagram I found somewhere, could be that the cab and chassis trucks have the 7 wire harness already there. I wouldn't do anything with the existing harness, its most likely canbus... I would tap into an the cigarette lighter wires...

 

[Musclemckeester]

Good deal, I should be able to handle that.

 

[merlin3606]

Hello this is my first time posting in this site. I made this harness following all the directions just had one question. Do you also have to connect a constant 12 v to one of the other prongs on the relay, and then connect whatever you want the switch to turn on?

 

[Musclemckeester]

The grounds from the relay is what will go to the switch panel. You will have 2 things getting 12v power from the relay....correct.

 

[merlin3606]

Pin 86 on all 4 relays is connected to one of the switches as described in the diagram. The opposite pin on the relay has a 12v power going to it. So all I have to do is ground my lights and connect the positive lead to one of the other pins

 

[dogcar3]

I added this panel to my truck and used the following relay pack built by a guy online. The parts alone are close to $90 bucks, and he only charged $110 (including the parts) to build it and ship it. It worked out perfect. Plus it looks professional and is weather tight.

Link to a good description of the relay block:
Auxiliary fuse/relay panel

Order from this guy, just email him with what you want:
WagonGear Guild: Wired Wagon LLC All the parts on this page are made by: Erik Johnson [email protected]

Edit: seems he may have recently stopped building these.

 

[king99]

I got my switch plate in yesterday and made a simple relay pack for it that will mount behind the dash somewhere. I only wired up the coil side at this point so I will just have to wire up the contacts as needed later when I add accessories. Not in a huge rush to install it just yet since I have nothing to power with it, but I did test it with a 12V power supply and it works like it should. Two of the wires get wired to a switched 12V source and one to ground. Then one side the coil to 12V and the other side to each output from the switch. I wired it up so I just have a 12V wire to connect and a ground.

I'm trying to wire this up and i'm so close. I hope you can follow this...

All of my switches from the panel are connected to "86" on the relays.

I have pin (on the harness) 1,7 (12v) and 2 (ground).

I have a 12v lead wire to "85" on the coil and then I made jumpers to each
"85" on each relay.

I have a boost pack as my 12v source while I test. Wires from pin 1, 7 and my lead wire from the coil are connected to the positive side of the boost pack. The ground wire from pin 2 is connected to the "ground side" of the boost pack. When I push the aux buttons on the panel the light lights up and I can hear the relay click. I have an l.e.d. light that I connected to a ground and touched the positive side to the open contact on the relay and I do not get anything. I can keep the ground hooked up and touch the positive wire to 86 or 85 and I get light, with or without the aux buttons pushed in.

Where did I go wrong?

 

[myoung84]

PM replied to, but I'll post it here too.

Sounds like they are working correctly. The relay coil (85 & 86) are isolated from the contacts so you’re not going to see anything with a test light. I also recommend not using a test light on newer vehicles, I’ve seen them cause damage to circuits. I don’t even own one and never will. You really need to be using a multimeter. With the multimeter, put the leads across pin 87 and 30 and when the meter set on continuity, you should hear it beep (or show a closed circuit) when you press the button (relay should click). Pin 87a and 30 should be closed when the button is not pressed and open when pressed. Most circuits will not use 87a.

You can also test with some lights and your booster pack. Wire the (+) side of your lights directly to your booster pack positive lead and the (-) side to pin 87. Then run a wire from pin 30 to the ground side of your jumper pack. The lights should come on when you press the button.

What is it that you are powering from the relays?

 

[ljvsnyder]

Is this part (Mopar Part 68057288AA 8 WAY WIRING) necessary for the switch plate to work?