Install Relay Bypass for Blower Motor

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

DeputyChef22

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2024
Posts
85
Reaction score
64
Location
Arkansas
Ram Year
2015
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Below is the step by step as provided by AI. I’m pretty handy and can follow most of this but steps 3&4 get me confused. Please help.

You will need:

• 40A automotive relay (4-pin)

• Inline fuse holder (30–40A)

• 10–12 gauge wire

• 16–18 gauge wire (for trigger)

• Ring terminals

• Heat shrink

That’s it.

The Relay Has 4 Pins

They are labeled:
• 30
• 87
• 85
• 86

Think of them like this:

30 = Power IN

87 = Power OUT to blower

85/86 = Small trigger wires

Step-by-Step (No Shortcuts)

1️⃣ Disconnect battery first.
Always.

2️⃣ Run NEW power
• From battery positive
• Through your new inline fuse (within 6–8 inches of battery)
• To relay pin 30
That wire should be 10–12 gauge.

3️⃣ Connect relay output
• Relay pin 87
• Goes directly to the blower motor power wire (cut and isolate the old TIPM high-current feed)
You will cut the blower power wire near the TIPM harness.

The side going TO the blower gets connected to relay pin 87.

The old TIPM high-current side gets taped and sealed — no longer used for power.

4️⃣ Trigger wire (this is the safe part)

Now take the old TIPM blower feed wire — the one that used to carry high current.

Instead of powering the blower directly, it now goes to relay pin 85.

That wire now only carries about 0.15 amps.

Zero heat issue.

5️⃣ Ground the relay

Pin 86 → good chassis ground.

Done.

What happens after this

When you turn blower on:

TIPM sends small signal → energizes relay → relay closes → battery sends clean power to blower.

TIPM never sees heavy load again.

Burned cavity becomes irrelevant.
 

SitKneelBend

Moderator
Staff member
Member Relations Specialist
Moderator Supporting Member Marine Corps
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Posts
10,952
Reaction score
7,629
Location
St. Louis
Ram Year
2014
Engine
3.6 Pentastar
Below is the step by step as provided by AI. I’m pretty handy and can follow most of this but steps 3&4 get me confused. Please help.



You will need:


• 40A automotive relay (4-pin)


• Inline fuse holder (30–40A)


• 10–12 gauge wire


• 16–18 gauge wire (for trigger)


• Ring terminals


• Heat shrink





That’s it.











The Relay Has 4 Pins





They are labeled:


• 30


• 87


• 85


• 86





Think of them like this:





30 = Power IN


87 = Power OUT to blower


85/86 = Small trigger wires











Step-by-Step (No Shortcuts)





1️⃣ Disconnect battery first.





Always.











2️⃣ Run NEW power


• From battery positive


• Through your new inline fuse (within 6–8 inches of battery)


• To relay pin 30





That wire should be 10–12 gauge.











3️⃣ Connect relay output


• Relay pin 87


• Goes directly to the blower motor power wire (cut and isolate the old TIPM high-current feed)





You will cut the blower power wire near the TIPM harness.





The side going TO the blower gets connected to relay pin 87.





The old TIPM high-current side gets taped and sealed — no longer used for power.











4️⃣ Trigger wire (this is the safe part)





Now take the old TIPM blower feed wire — the one that used to carry high current.





Instead of powering the blower directly, it now goes to relay pin 85.





That wire now only carries about 0.15 amps.





Zero heat issue.











5️⃣ Ground the relay





Pin 86 → good chassis ground.





Done.











What happens after this





When you turn blower on:





TIPM sends small signal → energizes relay → relay closes → battery sends clean power to blower.





TIPM never sees heavy load again.





Burned cavity becomes irrelevant.
What are you trying to accomplish?
 
OP
OP
DeputyChef22

DeputyChef22

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2024
Posts
85
Reaction score
64
Location
Arkansas
Ram Year
2015
Engine
Hemi 5.7
What are you trying to accomplish?
Bypass the overheated part of the TIPM where a fault blower motor charred a fuse and ultimately melted the wiring plug to where it won’t sit flush (supposedly for long).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_803164E6-B44C-4EEE-B90C-FC6B42C712D7.jpeg
    IMG_803164E6-B44C-4EEE-B90C-FC6B42C712D7.jpeg
    140.2 KB · Views: 2

Mpgrimm2

Senior Member
Supporting Vendor Navy Badge
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Posts
6,570
Reaction score
5,165
Location
SC
Ram Year
2022 Ram 1500 (5th Gen)
Engine
5.7L
(Don't trust Ai with this)

Is the terminal damaged or the connector housing?

If the heat damaged the terminal, how about a repair pigtail to splice in and fix it?
You should be able to pick up a whole connector pigtail from a any 13-18 truck at a salvage yard, green C7 connectors (7287-8884-60) will be the same but may use different pin locations based on trim/features.

If you want to buy the connector housing and transfer over the existing wiring one at a time (de-pin/re-pin), here's the part number and a link ...

Mouser Link
7287-8884-60 (C7 Green)
( I'm shocked to see 89 in stock, $8ea)

If you state your truck year, model (ie 1500) and trim, I can get you a connector pinout as well for this.

-------
If you just need a single pigtail for that terminal let me know/Message me for details)

.
Mike G.
M2 Mods
www.M2Mods4Ram.com
M2 Mods at Ramforum
 
Last edited:

SitKneelBend

Moderator
Staff member
Member Relations Specialist
Moderator Supporting Member Marine Corps
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Posts
10,952
Reaction score
7,629
Location
St. Louis
Ram Year
2014
Engine
3.6 Pentastar
(Don't trust Ai with this)

Is the terminal damaged or the connector housing?

If the heat damaged the terminal, how about a repair pigtail to splice in and fix it?
You should be able to pick up a whole connector pigtail from a any 13-18 truck at a salvage yard, green C7 connectors (7287-8884-60) will be the same but may use different pin locations based on trim/features.

If you want to buy the connector housing and transfer over the existing wiring one at a time (de-pin/re-pin), here's the part number and a link ...

Mouser Link
7287-8884-60 (C7 Green)
( I'm shocked to see 89 in stock, $8ea)

If you state your truck year, model (ie 1500) and trim, I can get you a connector pinout as well for this.

-------
If you just need a single pigtail for that terminal let me know/Message me for details)

.
Mike G.
M2 Mods
www.M2Mods4Ram.com
M2 Mods at Ramforum
This, AI will give you an authoritative answer with a response conflated by multiple online posts discussing a topic (not necessarily your topic). It's best used to guide your search to someone like @Mpgrimm2 and not follow it's instructions step by step.
 

juvaknight

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2023
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Miami, Florida
Ram Year
2016
Engine
5.7
Well, it worked for me got the A/C blower working again I only changed the trigger wire that part of the instructions was confusing
 
Back
Top