Finished my budget audio system (Long)

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bamagrad03

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So, I picked up a 2010 Big Horn a month ago, and after adding boards the next step for me was to replace the awful factory audio.

Initially, I was going to go a little on the expensive side with Focal comps and either a JL or IDQ sub. I also wanted to go with the Pioneer line of nav units.

Then I decided to do a budget system, as I've always gone the more expensive route. And I'm really happy with how it turned out. Here's what I went with:

Headunit: Kenwood Excelon DDX393 (Got mine on eBay for $230)
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-DDX3...dp/B0187V5TTK?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Now, this one doesn't have Android auto or navigation. But the bluetooth integration is great and I can get turn by turn on my phone and have it piped through the audio. The main reason I went with this unit is the Excelon track record, the price, and I wanted something with 5V preouts.

AMP: PPI P900.5 5 Channel Class D amp (I paid 150 used)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRMQ2N2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is my first foray into using class D for full range. Turned out pretty great and fits easily on the natural shelf undearneath the vertical portion of the back seat. If you need to hammer a power hungry sub this isn't for you. But if you just want some nice bottom end, the sub channel is adequate. The non-bridged load to my components is good too.

EDIT On The Amp
On a whim, I actually ran a pair of these (PPI BA800.2): http://www.ebay.com/itm/151451497404?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT to see how A/B compares to D. And I gotta admit, it sounds better. It also gives me more headroom for tuning. So I'm ditching the 900.5. I've got one in each shelf space behind/just above the under seat storage bins.

Front Stage: JBL MS62C Components (I paid 150 barely used)
I originally went with the Hybrid Audio imagine line, not realizing what an absolute nightmare running wire from the doors is on these trucks. Unless you're going active, this setup is challenging because you have to run wire from the woofer to the tweeter, as there's an in-line capacitor instead of a passive xover.

As far as the JBLs go, they're absolutely amazing. Not just for the money, rather in general, for most price points, amazing. These have a massive cult following for a reason, and they're a budget system superhero. I'm not even bridging the amp yet, just running regular front stage, and they're fantastic. For comparison, in previous systems Ive used: CDT HD, Focal, Diamond Audio, and Image Dynamics components. I cannot believe how good these are for the money.

I initially mounted them off axis, but havent cut yet. I picked up a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D69B31G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and plan to try mounting them in the factory 3" location in the dash. If they sound good there, what a fantastic way to hide your tweeters.

Sub: Polk DB1040DVC ($56 new)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016GT6OI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is admittedly my weak spot in the system. It's not a bad sub, and I'm going to play around with a different amp to see if it needs more power. But there just seems to be something missing. It's a great sub for mid bass heavy EDM or hip hop. But it doesn't stand out in music that uses bass in a more creative and supportive way (instead of bass being the primary component of the melody) some examples were Echosmith, Foxes, St Lucia.

But even as a 'weakness' budget subs have come a long way. I'll probably stick with this one since my next step up (IDQ DVC) is 4x the price. I also snagged a premade box here: Dodge RAM Quad Crew Cab Single 10" Subwoofer Enclosure Sub Box 2002 2015 | eBay and it worked out really well. Saved me a lot of time building a box.

Thoughts on rear fill:
Initially I threw in some Alpine SPR69s for rear fill. And while I'm already one to avoid rears, in a truck they make absolutely zero sense. You're so high up, far away, and off axis, you can't experience ANY of the full range portion of the speakers. One option here, however, would be to go with a P900.4 and drive the rear fill with a low pass filter just for bottom end and eschew the sub all together. I don't think this is a bad idea, but you'll really need to look at dynamat to curb those door rattles.

All in all, I couldn't be happier. I didn't break the bank, install was a breeze, and I think I've got eighty five percent of what I would have gotten out of some of my old SQ comp systems for a whole lot more money.
 

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